Reloading 243 WSSM, savings?

[Hokie]

Does anyone have a handle on the savings for reloading 243 WSSM rounds?

Typical prices for 20 rounds are:

100gr - $19
55gr ballistic - $27
95gr ballistic - $26

Also, the ballistic tip rounds come in nickel plated (or something like that ) brass, while the 100gr come in regular brass.

Any problem reloading the ballistics in the regualr brass or vice versa?

[Marlin]

Hard to say with some of the new stuff But, You should see anywhere from about 30-50% savings. I know with My Casull, I save around 50% on what I can get it for at the store.

I've never personally had any problems with nickle -v- Brass as far as reloading goes.

[<MADDOG>]

Savings can be from 20%-40% AFTER you invest in the equipment. Best thing about handloading is you can tailor the round for your need (prairie dog/coyote/loper/paper)and accuracy. With just quick math, I estimate loading 7RM at $.79 a round with a 140 Accubond, and that's with new brass. My .300 RUM goes for about $1.10 with new brass, again cheaper then the $2 I could pay for cheap factory.

Bottom line, unless you like shooting "minute of bucket" or have deep pockets, roll your own.

My experience is nickel-plated does not last as many long, the cases seem more prone to stretch/crack at the head. I think the plating process makes the case more brittle. Anyway, the premium/good "over the counter" brass; Lapua, Norma, Nosler, Winchester, etc, are not nickel plated. Might say something?

Word of warning too, the BT's are good up to 2900-3000 FPS max, faster than that, you have a varmint bullet. How far do you intend on shooting?

[Hokie]

Savings can be from 20%-40% AFTER you invest in the equipment. Best thing about handloading is you can tailor the round for your need (prairie dog/coyote/loper/paper)and accuracy. With just quick math, I estimate loading 7RM at $.79 a round with a 140 Accubond, and that's with new brass. My .300 RUM goes for about $1.10 with new brass, again cheaper then the $2 I could pay for cheap factory.

Bottom line, unless you like shooting "minute of bucket" or have deep pockets, roll your own.

My experience is nickel-plated does not last as many long, the cases seem more prone to stretch/crack at the head. I think the plating process makes the case more brittle. Anyway, the premium/good "over the counter" brass; Lapua, Norma, Nosler, Winchester, etc, are not nickel plated. Might say something?

Word of warning too, the BT's are good up to 2900-3000 FPS max, faster than that, you have a varmint bullet. How far do you intend on shooting?

I am not sure how far I'll be shooting, mostly just prairie dogs/target shooting. So I guess 200-300 yards.

The Winchester factory ammo in 55gr and 95gr ballistic tips come in the nickel plated brass. Only the 100gr Super-X power points come in unplated brass. Is there a issue with reloading the unplated brass with the 55gr or the 95gr bullets?

I am unsure of any benefits/reason as to why they are using nickel plated brass in some applications and regular brass in others.

I have not done any rifle cartridge reloading in the past (just shotgun shells) so this is all new to me.

How much would a decent reloading set up cost?

[michael_aos]

500pcs WSSM brass - $158.99
Bullets can be $.07 - $.46/each
$20 for 1K primers
$.10/rd for powder

When I was looking at loading .243 Win, I figured $.43 - $.64/rd.

Mike

[Marlin]

Well, depending on how fancy You want to get. :wink:

That being said, Sounds like for what Your intending to do, a good single stage press would suit Your needs for now.

Most of the Major manufactures offer "starter kits" that generally have every thing You need to start except for dies. Awhile back, I think it was Lee, was offering a gift certificate to get the dies that You would want. Been awhile, so You might want to check and see if they're still doing it.

Kits are somewhere in the $75- $250 range depending on what You get.

[<MADDOG>]

Nickel plated ="pretty" round that doesn't tarnish on the shelf. For auto's, it may help loading and extraction due to the smoother finish, but is useless in a bolt rifle.

For PD's at that range, the bullets you selected should be fine; the ballistic tips should vaporize them. Don't overlook Sierra Matchkings either; they are basically a hollow point with a thin copper jacket. If you wish to go into longer range, the 100+ with high BC's will be best.

As far as a decent reloading setup, do not go with the Lee kit unless you cannot afford better. You will regret it later, as you will get "hooked" on reloading, and in some point in time, that cheap steel press will break, and you will upgrade to an electronic scale. I speak from personal experience. The only good thing about that setup is you receive everything, with the exception of dies and shellholders, to get started.

Some may tell you to purchase a progressive press, which is fine for mass producing rounds. I only use mine for pistol rounds, but for all of my "accurate" cartridges, I use my single stage. I am slightly anal about case prep and measuring powder weights, but am rewarded with 1/2 MOA or less groups if I do my part.

By the way, is your rifle the Winchester Coyote with the stainless barrel?

[Hokie]

Nickel plated ="pretty" round that doesn't tarnish on the shelf. For auto's, it may help loading and extraction due to the smoother finish, but is useless in a bolt rifle.

For PD's at that range, the bullets you selected should be fine; the ballistic tips should vaporize them. Don't overlook Sierra Matchkings either; they are basically a hollow point with a thin copper jacket. If you wish to go into longer range, the 100+ with high BC's will be best.

As far as a decent reloading setup, do not go with the Lee kit unless you cannot afford better. You will regret it later, as you will get "hooked" on reloading, and in some point in time, that cheap steel press will break, and you will upgrade to an electronic scale. I speak from personal experience. The only good thing about that setup is you receive everything, with the exception of dies and shellholders, to get started.

Some may tell you to purchase a progressive press, which is fine for mass producing rounds. I only use mine for pistol rounds, but for all of my "accurate" cartridges, I use my single stage. I am slightly anal about case prep and measuring powder weights, but am rewarded with 1/2 MOA or less groups if I do my part.

By the way, is your rifle the Winchester Coyote with the stainless barrel?

What is "100+ with high BC?"

My rifle is the Olympic arms K8 Mag 243 WSSM.

[<MADDOG>]

BC=Ballistic coefficient
IE= More aerodynamic:less bullet drop and wind drift relative to velocity.

[Hokie]

BC=Ballistic coefficient
IE= More aerodynamic:less bullet drop and wind drift relative to velocity.

What is considered a "high" BC?

Also, what would be a good starting reloading set up if the Lee ones are not so hot? (Thanks for the tip, I was looking at the Lee Anniversary kits)