Close
Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst 1234
Results 31 to 35 of 35
  1. #31
    a cool, fancy title hollohas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Littleton
    Posts
    6,071

    Default

    I sure do like what I have seen of Pendleton safes...especially the revolving feature. Anyone own a safe from Pendleton?



    Also, there's this from Pendleton regarding fire ratings.

    We believe an informed customer is the best, and often happiest customer in the long run. When armed with all the facts, we can make truly educated decisions about which products will be the best fit, and provide the most value over time.

    Most mid to upper level safe companies boast impressive-sounding fire ratings that ensure protection for (X) amount of time with (Y) outside temperature, not to exceed 350 degrees inside the safe. However, these ratings are often deceiving due to the methods by which the safes are tested. As it stands, there is no standard set of tests specifically for evaluating the fire resistance of a gun safe. In fact, most companies use different private testing organizations to evaluate and assign fire ratings to their safes. These testing procedures often vary, and are exclusively based on how well paper documents resist damage as ambient temperatures rise. The problem with this approach is that most people incorrectly assume that paper in a safe will burn before a gun. This is not true. Since steel and other metals "gather heat" much more easily than paper, guns and other valuables will heat up more quickly and reach higher temperatures than documents in the same amount of time. You might notice this principle the next time you go outside to pickup the newspaper from your driveway on a hot summer day. While the hood of your car is too hot to touch, you can easily pick up the paper and carry it inside without any discomfort. It seems to go against logic, but it can all be explained by the scientific principle of Specific Heat Capacity.

    When a safe is in a house fire, it acts like a huge convection oven – the fire outside the safe heats up the air inside the safe which, by convection, transfers heat to the firearms and valuables stored in the safe. How quickly your valuables become damaged by the fire depends on three things – the temperature inside the safe, the burning or melting point of the various materials that make up your valuables, and the specific heat capacity of those materials. Specific heat capacity is the amount of heat required to change the temperature of one kilogram of a substance by one degree. In other words, the higher a material's specific heat capacity, the more heat energy is required to raise the temperature of that material. Specific heat capacity is extremely important when taking into consideration the fire-rating of a safe. The paper document used in a typical fire-testing procedure has a specific heat capacity of 1.4 (Kcal/Kg °C) and an ignition point of 451°F. By comparison, aluminum, steel, gold and silver have much lower specific heat capacities of 0.91, 0.49, 0.13 and 0.23 respectively. This means that the steel barrel of your rifle or aluminum casing of your scope will heat up a lot more quickly and easily than any paper document in the safe. With an ABS plastic gun stock melting at 221°F and wood solids starting to break down at around 575°F, you can image how quickly a gun can become ruined under heat conditions that would cause little, if any damage to a paper document in the same safe. If companies began fire-testing their safes using guns and other valuables as the standard, rather than documents, they would find that conventional fireproofing does little to prevent the safe's contents from being quickly destroyed by a typical house fire.

  2. #32
    Hatchet Sushi Master Rooskibar03's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Vail, AZ
    Posts
    2,770

    Default

    I'm by not means an expert but in doing research for my liberty I learned about safe construction and from my understanding plates instead of pins for the locking system is something easily destroyed. Even looking at the picture the door looks very flimsy compared to others.

    Neat idea but I'd rather have my guns still inside then look at a cool carousel.



    Quote Originally Posted by hollohas View Post
    I sure do like what I have seen of Pendleton safes...especially the revolving feature. Anyone own a safe from Pendleton?



    Also, there's this from Pendleton regarding fire ratings.
    Progressive ideology, ideas so good they must be mandatory.
    Your freedom to be you includes my freedom to be free from you.

  3. #33
    a cool, fancy title hollohas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Littleton
    Posts
    6,071

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Rooskibar03 View Post
    I'm by not means an expert but in doing research for my liberty I learned about safe construction and from my understanding plates instead of pins for the locking system is something easily destroyed. Even looking at the picture the door looks very flimsy compared to others.

    Neat idea but I'd rather have my guns still inside then look at a cool carousel.
    That thing pictured is far from flimsy, it's 35"x31" and weights 1050lbs. Liberty's use mainly 12-11 gauge steel (except for the Presidential and National), this one is 6 gauge and the tops and bottoms are 1/4" thick (less than 3 gauge).

    Although I think the pin locking vs plates sounds like a fair assessment.

  4. #34
    Guest
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    180

    Default

    My latest "residential security container"/gun safe is an AMSEC BF-series after many years of research.

    "Best of both worlds" yet still not a "real safe" - However, it's a serious upgrade that comes at a definite price difference from what most are willing to invest and what's available locally w/out some serious shopping.

    I'm confident the high-end Liberty, Sturdy, and a few others are just as good, but none are "cheap."

    Err... http://www.graffundersafes.com/

    B2

    The "thermo-God-dynamics" lesson noted... Do some research, ask the pros, and ignore the hype.

    There's a reason some of these "high-dollar" US manufacturers are still in business... Oh yeah, buy the largest RSC you can afford and fit up to about 40"! (Measure twice/think about a 38" door swing...)

    Also, assuming a real RSC and >1000#, I'd recommend hiring a pro-mover

  5. #35
    burdoglovr
    Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by HBARleatherneck View Post
    Liberty


    PLATINUM DEALER


    Soot Busters
    29650 C.R. 361
    Buena Vista, CO 81211
    Phone Number: 719-207-1444
    view more ››‹‹ close
    By Appointment- Full Line Show Room
    Free delivery to the Central Rockies and most of the Front Range.- Install service for a fee
    Locksmith Services Available

    Mark,
    he will beat that terrible RMSS by a bunch. and delivery will still be cheaper. and he is a nice guy, not like the POSs at RMSS.

    i am not actively selling my Liberty Franklin 50, but I would, just to buy at least a TL30 safe.

    how much would you sell your liberty for?

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •