Anybody in the Centennial/Littleton/Englwood area have a u-joint press

[mcantar18c]

I have access to a big press and any size hammer you need at work. Do not mind helping you out. Is the entire driveline out? Have the next 2 days off as well

I was kinda hoping for a portable one, where you just screw it down over the joint and can use a big breaker bar to turn it. If I can't get it out under the truck tomorrow I'll probably remove the shaft and take you up on that offer though. Its a big two piece shaft, the kind with the carrier bearing in the middle, so its kind of a PITA to remove and I don't know if it'll even come out without air tools, it doesn't look like its been touched since it was put together in '95.

What kind of vehicle is the U joint on? I use either a ball joint press, or a vise, depending on the size of the joint. Now if it is a GM, and it hasnt had joints replaced yet, then you will need some heat, as GM likes to use nylon or some such material to secure the cups into the shaft. First time removal means using the torch to melt the material, then you can press them out.

Its a 95 F250. I tried torching it but I may have not heated it enough.

Yup and they can suck to remove period
we have access to a torch as as well.

MAPP or propane? My propane torch didn't seem to phase it.

I'm an ASE cert. mechanic and have worked in the auto industry for most of my life, not to mention rockcrawling where broken u-joints are pretty common.... and this is the most trouble I've ever had getting a joint out.

[DFBrews]

I was kinda hoping for a portable one, where you just screw it down over the joint and can use a big breaker bar to turn it. If I can't get it out under the truck tomorrow I'll probably remove the shaft and take you up on that offer though. Its a big two piece shaft, the kind with the carrier bearing in the middle, so its kind of a PITA to remove and I don't know if it'll even come out without air tools, it doesn't look like its been touched since it was put together in '95.



Its a 95 F250. I tried torching it but I may have not heated it enough.

I'm an ASE cert. mechanic and have worked in the auto industry for most of my life, not to mention rockcrawling where broken u-joints are pretty common.... and this is the most trouble I've ever had getting a joint out.

Haha maxing out a 75 ton press is common on my end. I have a tiger tool that is class 8 truck sized do not know if it will fit on yours. PM me and I will give you my # if you can not get er done.

[DFBrews]

Mapp and propane are childs play oxy acet baby

[mcantar18c]

Haha maxing out a 75 ton press is common on my end. I have a tiger tool that is class 8 truck sized do not know if it will fit on yours. PM me and I will give you my # if you can not get er done.

Damn, don't think I've ever maxed out a press that big lol, not on a u-joint anyway.
I think a class 8 might be a little big for my 3/4 ton pickup haha, worth a shot though.
PM incoming

Oxy acet? That's all you, I'm afraid I'd melt it if I hit it with an oxy torch

[streetglideok]

Propane is for soldering,lol. Oxy acetylene is where you need it, but not for a ford. Those shouldnt be a big deal to get out, pull the clips and press. GMs wont have clips from the factory, and when the break free, they fly! If you are trying to do it under the truck, a lack of room is your enemy there. Drop the rest of the driveshaft, and get it on a bench, and they will pop right out.

[mcantar18c]

Propane is for soldering,lol. Oxy acetylene is where you need it, but not for a ford. Those shouldnt be a big deal to get out, pull the clips and press. GMs wont have clips from the factory, and when the break free, they fly! If you are trying to do it under the truck, a lack of room is your enemy there. Drop the rest of the driveshaft, and get it on a bench, and they will pop right out.

With the lift and tires, I can comfortably sit indian-style while working on it lol

[mcantar18c]

Got the old u-joint out and the new one in, ball joint press and a breaker bar got er done.
I think the reason the old joint blew the cap is that the pinion yoke is missing an ear, so now I gotta find a new pinion yoke

Anybody got a good line on a Sterling 10.25?

[Ah Pook]

Did you check for C clips? An appropriate size socket and 5lb hammer has always worked for me. HF has a joint tool for about $25.

Edit; Nevermind.

[Tweety Bird]

Replacing that yoke might not be as simple as you think. If it's like the Dana's I've dealt with, there's a crush sleeve in there to preload the bearing. Too loose or too tight with the pinion nut will destroy the pinion bearings quickly. Shop manual called for an inch-pound bending-beam (old-school to you young guns and impossible to find these days) type of torque wrench to rotate the pinion, which is how the preload gets measured.

There's a reason I know this.