barrel break in

[Bailey Guns]

[FONT='Arial','sans-serif']http://www.webarms.com/breaking%20in%20a%20barrel.htm[/font]

I'm betting he doesn't have a Krieger premium barrel on his AR.

As others have said, no break-in required.

[Byte Stryke]

I'm betting he doesn't have a Krieger premium barrel on his AR.

As others have said, no break-in required.

This.


at the most
Make sure it has a LIGHT swab of oil at the start
if you are feeling really paranoid run another one through every 500-1K or so.

[Zombie Steve]

It warms my blackened little heart to see people finally getting the barrel break in crap out of their systems.

In 5 years online nobody has been able to explain to me what they think is happening inside the barrel during their voodoo break in process.



Just go shoot your gun. Have fun... be safe.

[Storm]

I have never done this, but am a believer to a point.

What's going on inside the barrel when you break it in is each bullet down the bore is smoothing out the tool burrs and depositing carbon and copper into the divits and the bore. The breaking-in process is to remove the copper and allow some of the carbon to remain filling in the flaws.

I can see the point in doing this to a stainless match barrel and perhaps even a chrome-moly barrel, but for a chrome lined barrel the effort is too much and I don't really think it's going to do that much given that the chrome is so hard.

AR Perfomance Break-In Routine

[BPTactical]

I have never done this, but am a believer to a point.

What's going on inside the barrel when you break it in is each bullet down the bore is smoothing out the tool burrs and depositing carbon and copper into the divits and the bore. The breaking-in process is to remove the copper and allow some of the carbon to remain filling in the flaws.

I can see the point in doing this to a stainless match barrel and perhaps even a chrome-moly barrel, but for a chrome lined barrel the effort is too much and I don't really think it's going to do that much given that the chrome is so hard.

AR Perfomance Break-In Routine

Really close-
It doesn't matter what name is on the barrel, the process is the same.
What one is doing during "break in" is burnishing the microscopic burrs and valleys that are present in any cut rifled barrel. It is infact more critical with a Stainless barrel as opposed to Carbon steel, stainless does not machine as cleanly as carbon steel and will have more irregularities in the bore. A hammer forged or button rifled barrel will not have as many irregularities.


Light cleaning is needed between rounds to prevent forcing debris (dirt and carbon) into the microscopic pores and valleys present and create a clean surface to burnish. You want to leave the copper in place, it helps to "gild" the bore with the copper creating a smooth bore and sealing surface for the projectile. It also helps keep the carbon down, which can be abrasive.
No need to go mad dog on some extended break in process but a couple of things to ensure long lasting accuracy.
Clean the bore as it comes from the factory and then oil it with a good quality oil such as Tetra and let the oil sit for a day or two, this let's it soak into the pores of the steel and it will make it easier to keep the carbon down initially.
Shoot good quality, clean burning ammo during break in. Stay away from "break in" bullets, they typically have abrasive material. You want to burnish the bore, not grind it.
Before you go to shoot it wipe the bore with a dry patch and you will see black/grey residue. Continue with dry patches until they come out clean.
On a dry bore take two shots then just wet patch (no brushing) with a cleaner that IS NOT a copper remover and follow up with dry patches until very light grey or clean .
Clean from breech to muzzle(remember sanding with the grain?) and remove the swab/patch before withdrawing the rod. Leave the boresnake at home.
Repeat this for the first 15-20 shots then open it up to 10 rounds before you swab it.
Once you have hit 50 rounds it has burnished the bore as much as it is going to.
Is it a PITA? Yes, but you will also have a barrel that will be accurate and more importantly long lasting and accurate. You just dropped a good chunk of coin so take the time to do it right
Once it is broken in just wet patch it to clean it. Only pull out the bore brush and copper cleaner when you see a degradation in accuracy. Expect a few "flier" shots after a thorough cleaning.
It is not uncommon for serious precision shooters to go 500-1000 rounds between bore cleanings.
When you do clean it always clean from breech to muzzle and go very easy on the muzzle. Use a nylon brush before the bronze, chances are it will do what you want.
More accurate rifles have the accuracy degrade from over/poor cleaning practices than any break in procedures or lack of.


Chrome lined bore? Initial cleaning and go shoot it.

[sako55]

Never said it had a kreiger on it. RRA uses wilson barrels like many other big name makers. Like BP said, spent a lot of scratch just want to make sure I didn't jack something up. Thanks BP for the info.

[Zombie Steve]

If it's microscopic barrel imperfections and burrs that keep you up at night, why not save yourself some hassle and run a few patches with this through before you start?

[Zombie Steve]

From Gale McMillan (custom barrel / stock and benchrest gun maker)... RIP, Gale.

The break in fad was started by a fellow I helped get started in the barrel business . He started putting a set of break in instructions in ever barrel he shipped. One came into the shop to be installed and I read it and the next time I saw him I asked him What was with this break in crap?. His answer was Mac, My share of the market is about 700 barrels a year. I cater to the target crowd and they shoot a barrel about 3000 rounds before they change it. If each one uses up 100 rounds of each barrel breaking it in you can figure out how many more barrels I will get to make each year. If you will stop and think that the barrel doesn't know whether you are cleaning it every shot or every 5 shots and if you are removing all foreign material that has been deposited in it since the last time you cleaned it what more can you do? When I ship a barrel I send a recommendation with it that you clean it ever chance you get with a brass brush pushed through it at least 12 times with a good solvent and followed by two and only 2 soft patches. This means if you are a bench rest shooter you clean ever 7 or 8 rounds . If you are a high power shooter you clean it when you come off the line after 20 rounds. If you follow the fad of cleaning every shot for X amount and every 2 shots for X amount and so on the only thing you are accomplishing is shortening the life of the barrel by the amount of rounds you shot during this process. I always say Monkey see Monkey do, now I will wait on the flames but before you write them, Please include what you think is happening inside your barrel during break in that is worth the expense and time you are spending during break in

http://www.snipercountry.com/Article...el_BreakIn.asp

[bobbyfairbanks]

From Gale McMillan (custom barrel / stock and benchrest gun maker)... RIP, Gale.



http://www.snipercountry.com/Article...el_BreakIn.asp

hi Five bro

[BPTactical]

If it's microscopic barrel imperfections and burrs that keep you up at night, why not save yourself some hassle and run a few patches with this through before you start?

And Clover Lapping compound helps break in engines faster........................