This is why so called "consumer reporters" annoy me.
Ok, so this is "so cleaver that nobody can tell, not even an expert", Then what's the problem? If it comes off (even to an expert) as the same as a nice filet, than who is harmed? Hell, if they can make a significantly greater number of filets this way than it brings the cost of filet down (via greater supply ... simple basic econ).
The argument that "glued meat" is going to increase your chances of getting food poisoning is probably exaggerated because if most restaurants are using this "glued meat" and the numbers of food poisoning are not going up then I'd take that as a sign its probably perfectly safe.