Stock refinishing tips

[tactuppernut]

Didn't see many threads, here's what I have recently learned:

Just did a ton of research on this matter before refinishing a brand new West One M-1 carbine stock for a 10/22 (I took a different road than you look to be staring down, I'll attach photos @ end).
Best link I found regarding different oil/varnish blends best to use on traditionally finished stocks:
http://www.sportscomet.com/Hunting/185483.htm

Brownells sells colored dyes,typically used with water to raise the grain,when sanded after dry, dye only remains in the smaller,tighter grains(highlighting). I believe scarlet is your Huckleberry. Site states instructions/measurement tables included also.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...ER_SOLUBLE_DYE

The only tips I can offer are; don't go too coarse during initial rough sand, 100 grit should be plenty, 50 for deeper mars, and don't push too hard, or you'll end up with hairline scratches that won't show up until it's too late. Progress to 200 (3m's 220 sanding sponge is great for this), then 400, and finally 800. Once smoother than a babies ass and all dings/scratches gone, color dye wood per instructions. Sand w/800 between all coats at this point, either dye again same color (to darken and increase existing highlighted surface area), switch to another color (always darkest 1st, lightest last), or go on to selected oil/varnish blend. Blend is applied sparingly with rag, sand w/800 between coats. The greater the # of coats, the darker and cloudier the final result becomes, as the varnish hardens below woods surface. Final sand 1000 or 1500 to remove rag strokes and wax (I like the impregnated Hoppe's rags).
P.S.- I found auto parts chain stores have a better selection of veryfine sandpapers than home improvement or hobby stores (autobody).


What I did to mine: Re-cut buttstock Monte Carlo style and deep finger recesses into forestock before 5 color coats of Minwax water based stain (to raise grain) and 4 clear coats of Minwax acrylic polymer, water-based unfortunately(spoke w/3 associates at 2 hardware stores, each of which said oil less likely to penetrate as deep, because of staining), even though oil based is more durable. I won't bore you what mods. I made to bedding area. I call it antikd' camo. Giving it to the boy for his 13th. After he beats it up a bit, we'll highlight the light damage with stain & re-finish to add some character. If you change gears and like what you see, shoot me a private message for more details.

[BPTactical]

Let's back up the bus a touch-

OP- what type of finish are you wanting? A nice warm oil finish or a hard high luster polished finish?
For a kids gun I would recommend a hand rubbed oil with a low gloss-it won't show dings as much and will be easy to touch up.
Stay away from lacquer/varnish, they are too brittle and not overly tough.

Stock finishing is an art in itself and volumes have been written on the subject. There is not enough space here to go into real detail but the above post gives a bit of an outline.

Stains- you have 3 choices- water based- alcohol based and oil based.. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. Water based is probably best for a novice, they are very forgiving and easy to adjust shading and to even out. Make a mistake and you can wash a great deal of it off. It is also very slow to dry, overnight between coats and at least a week before final finish.
Alcohol based are tricky, tougher to blend and adjust shading but it also dries the quickest. Make a mistake with alcohol based and you are pretty much stuck with it.
Forget oil stains, they are mostly for furniture and will take a long time to dry.
Final finish- again you have choices- Linseed oil- modified linseed- tung oil and polyurethane.
Linseed is old and traditional, slow process, requires annual "freshing up" moderately water resistant, develops a wonderful aged patina and easy to repair.
Modified linseed- linseed with drying agents to speed up cure times, a little more water resistant, generally doesn't need freshing up, tougher to repair.
Tung oils- traditionally oil from either a tree or a beetle- don't recall offhand. Very fast drying,harder than linseed, shinier than linseed, substantially more water resistant, very difficult to repair.
Polyurethanes- plastic in a can- dries fairly quick, satin or gloss, very water resistant, pretty tough but can flake, doesn't really penetrate very deep, virtually impossible to repair.