1911 fired when slide released

[Atrain1]

Letting the slide slam on an empty chamber a couple of times is unfortunately a necessary evil when doing any fire control work on a 1911. It is about the only way you can check for hammer follow. Just don't as a regular habit.
I used to cringe when I worked in the shop and would hand a customer any semi auto with the action open. The very first thing they would do even after you told them not to do it was drop the slide.
Morons.
Your adjustment of the OT screw sounds about right-if anything err to the loose side a touch. A smidge of overtravel is far better than the sear nose getting hammered on the half cock notch.
Your recoil buffer will do nothing as far as slamming the slide into battery. It is to prevent the frame/dust cover from battering as the pistol reaches full recoil.

I know the buffer wont help when I drop the slide I just wanted to give you an idea how I take care of my guns, I also wanted to ask if a recoil buffer would help in a early Colt Delta Elite 10mm from my understanding they just took a 45 and turned it into a 10mm with a heavier recoil spring and few differences and I have been hearing they are only good for 5000 to 6000 rounds, and that the round is really hard on the 45 frame, I am talking real rounds like a strong home brew or Doubletap Thanks for your help.

[SouthPaw]

That is what is expected, and should be "of course" not "thankfully"

If his booger hook wasn't on the bang button, then you've got a defective trigger sear, which is why you should ALWAYS KEEP A GUN POINTED IN A SAFE DIRECTION.

Well to be more correct we always practice safe firearm use including always pointing in a safe direction or only pointing it at something you are intentionally shooting at. Sorry for any confusion.

Of course the gun will not be fired until it is inspected. All of your help is greatly appreciated.

[SA Friday]

BP is absolutely correct. I immediately thought of a Bubba with a Dremel going to town on the sear, or the overtravel screw was over adjusted. It could be a weak mainspring too like BP said, nevertheless, get the gun checked out by a gunsmith and determine what it is before firing it anymore.

1911 triggers are amazing animals. They can be modified to just about any shooter's desires, but they can also wear out, faster when made really light or cheap parts are used. But, they are rebuild fairly easy too. So, don't sweat it too much. If it need rebuilt, use high quality parts and don't go super light on the trigger weight and it will last a very long time.

[SouthPaw]

BP is absolutely correct. I immediately thought of a Bubba with a Dremel going to town on the sear, or the overtravel screw was over adjusted. It could be a weak mainspring too like BP said, nevertheless, get the gun checked out by a gunsmith and determine what it is before firing it anymore.

1911 triggers are amazing animals. They can be modified to just about any shooter's desires, but they can also wear out, faster when made really light or cheap parts are used. But, they are rebuild fairly easy too. So, don't sweat it too much. If it need rebuilt, use high quality parts and don't go super light on the trigger weight and it will last a very long time.

Kind of reassuring if that is the problem. Hoping its not going to be to expensive to fix.