Close
Page 1 of 5 12345 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 42
  1. #1
    Guest
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    greeley co
    Posts
    1,129

    Default Rear main seal leak on 1996 Tahoe 5.7

    My wife has a 1996 Chevy Tahoe and when I got up for work this morning I noticed the rear main leaking. Does anyone know of a good additive I can add? I do not want to take out the Engine or drop the pan to try and fix it. Thanks for your input.

  2. #2
    Machine Gunner Big Wall's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Englewood, CO
    Posts
    2,153

    Default

    I don't know of an additive, but if you are using synthetic oil it can make a car leak oil because it is so much more "slipery" than regular oil.
    Mars is entirely inhabited by robots.

  3. #3
    Guest
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    greeley co
    Posts
    1,129

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Big Wall View Post
    I don't know of an additive, but if you are using synthetic oil it can make a car leak oil because it is so much more "slipery" than regular oil.
    I have never used synthetic oil do to it being thinner thin conv oil. I dont even use it in my race Engines. I had a 1978 Grand Prix that would sling oil out of the timing cover all over the passenger side of the engine compartment, I used an additive and it stopped that very large leak. Now the the problem is I can not remember what I used.

  4. #4
    Grand Master Know It All SouthPaw's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Greeley
    Posts
    3,115

    Default

    A rear main seal leak can really only be "slowed down." The only thing I have heard that actually works and some people swear by it is called "White Shepard." Advance Auto Parts on 10th street carries it and I think its around $50.
    "But when it's time to fight, you fight like you are the third monkey on the ramp to Noah's Ark; and brother, it's startin' to rain."

  5. #5
    Guest
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    greeley co
    Posts
    1,129

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SouthPaw View Post
    A rear main seal leak can really only be "slowed down." The only thing I have heard that actually works and some people swear by it is called "White Shepard." Advance on 10th street carries it and I think its around $50.
    If I could slow it down it would help just until I get healed enough to fix it the right way.

  6. #6
    Grand Master Know It All SouthPaw's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Greeley
    Posts
    3,115

    Default

    try the white shepard
    "But when it's time to fight, you fight like you are the third monkey on the ramp to Noah's Ark; and brother, it's startin' to rain."

  7. #7
    Industry Partner BPTactical's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    North Metro
    Posts
    13,933

    Default

    Pull the tranny, pull the flywheel, pull the seal retainer, replace seal.
    Assembly is the reverse of the aforementioned.

    Anything else is a waste of time and money.
    The most important thing to be learned from those who demand "Equality For All" is that all are not equal...

    Gun Control - seeking a Hardware solution for a Software problem...

  8. #8
    Guest
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    greeley co
    Posts
    1,129

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SouthPaw View Post
    try the white shepherd
    I found it online for 12.95 and I want to say I used bars leak the last time. I am not used to using stop leak to fix leaks, I like to do it the right way. I have had some recent accidents so it will be a bit until I can work on a car. Have you ever used Bars leak and if so how does it fair up to the White shep
    herd?

  9. #9
    65 yard Hail Mary
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Parker CO
    Posts
    2,981

    Default

    Please, don't use any stupid additives like "Stop Leak" (edit: Bars Leak, White Shepherd, etc. fall under the "stupid chit" category as well). It'll do more harm than good.
    Do it the RIGHT way and replace the seal that's leaking. And before you write it off as your RMS, check everything to make sure it isn't something simpler like the oil pan gasket.

  10. #10
    Guest
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    greeley co
    Posts
    1,129

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BPTactical View Post
    Pull the tranny, pull the flywheel, pull the seal retainer, replace seal.
    Assembly is the reverse of the aforementioned.

    Anything else is a waste of time and money.
    I will pull the engine before I do that just because I had my own business rebuilding the 700R4 200R4 4L60E and 4L80E transmissions. I used to do alot of those trucks and I hate laying on the ground and pulling the trans, and I am not in the physical condition to do it or I probably would go that rout one more time. I have it down to a science it only takes me a couple of hours to take it out and a couple hours to put it back in.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •