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  1. #1
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    Default Automotive paint to finish firearms?

    I was wondering if anyone has ever tried this before. Im not talking of a flashy
    metallic or flake paint job. I was thinking of a flat black, grey or tan etc.
    Maybe with a clearcoat for better protection?

    I would think from the pianting I used to do this owuld hold up pretty well
    from abuse.

    Or is Duracoat or Cerekote etc a simular product?
    Industry folks like BP Tac, please chim in since you have more experience with this.

  2. #2
    COAR15 Night Crew - Crew Lead Dr_Fwd's Avatar
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    How much would flat automotive paint cost?
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  3. #3
    65 yard Hail Mary
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    I'd imagine engine enamel would work well. I use it on just about everything else.

  4. #4
    Kicked out of the club glock21's Avatar
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    I used the krylon camo rattle can with a clear coat, ill let you know how it holds up. I'm going to try duracoat myself.
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  5. #5
    Industry Partner BPTactical's Avatar
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    I am far from an expert on either but I do have some experience with both.
    DuraCoat and CeraKote are basically industrial cataylized paint products but are formulated for firearms use. They have a much higher solids content, lubrication and flexibility modifiers than automotive paint. This is what give it the wear resistance and chemical resistance. They are also designed for a "single step" application process, meaning no prime coat or clear coat is required.
    Automotive paints are much more brittle and will not withstand wear nearly as well. They don't have the solids and such as a dedicated firearm finish. They are also a 2-3 step process meaning prime/seal-color coat-clear coat. You will end up with too much film thickness for firearms use. It will also not have near the chemical resistance as well.
    Cost will also be an issue. Automotive paint is not cheap, when I painted my bike I just bought a quart which I believe is the smallest quantity it is sold. By the time had bought primer/sealer, color coat, clear coat, hardeners and reducers I was into it for 3 bills.

    If you just want to do it on the cheap look at Brownells and their AlumaHyde and baking laquers.
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  6. #6
    Kicked out of the club glock21's Avatar
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    Yea I learned that the hard way, the paint and clear film was to thick so I had to sand and start over. I got the glock cheap enough to be my test dummy.
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  7. #7

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    I've used engine paint, and epoxy spray paint with decent results on some beaters. Just keep in mind that engine paint takes FOREVER to dry hard if you don't bake it, think mine took a good week or so before I couldn't scratch it.

    Seeing as I now have a sand blasting cabinet and an air compressor I like gun kote
    http://www.kgcoatings.com it's cheap at $10 for a 4oz bottle, just spray and bake and it's g2g. Brownells sells it in a spray can but it's $30-35 for 8oz, and I tried it once and the nozzles kept clogging.

    Ohh and this stuff stinks when you bake it, just take a toaster oven outside or wait till the wife isn't home.

  8. #8

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    i used flat black on miy pellet rifle and it doesnt work great i like duracoat much better

  9. #9
    Kicked out of the club glock21's Avatar
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    Is there any place local to get duracoat or only internet?
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  10. #10
    So old he can't get it up twitchyfinger's Avatar
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    I'm a fig fan of Norrell's Moly Resin.really easy to use. you pre-heat the part @ 100 degrees apply it with an air brush. The pre-heating eliminates runs as the moly resin dries on contact. Then you bake it in the oven @ 300 degrees for an hour. Some tough stuff for sure! Have used it on many rifles. I like the U.S. SOCOM flat black best as it is the closest to the AR-15 finishes I have found. I have also used the semi gloss black and it matches the HK type finishes very well. Moly resin is suppose to be more durable than Duracoat but I have never used it. Here is a link to the product: http://www.molyresin.com/

    BTW: I still have a 3/4 bottle of the semi gloss black if someone wants it. Should be enough to do at least two rifles.

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