Originally Posted by michael_aos
sent you a pm, about my Tikka
Originally Posted by michael_aos
sent you a pm, about my Tikka
Retired U.S. Army
Owner: Awesome Edges
You never will be the person you can be if pressure, tension ard discipline are taken out of your life. Dr. James G. Bilkey
I looked at:
Tikka T3 Super Varmint in .308
Tikka T3 Varmint Stainless in .223
Tikka T3 Tactical (20" bbl) in .223
The Varmint Stainless and Super Varmint are far heavier than the weight listed on the Beretta website.
I was very impressed with the bolt operation on all of them. I only tried the trigger on the Super Varmint, but it was awesome.
The T3 Tactical in .223 is similar to the 700P LTR that I've lusted after for years. I wonder if the polymer magazine is better than the HS Precision 223 magazines I've tried previously? They pretty much sucked.
Mike
Not so worried about inexpensive "cost of admission".Originally Posted by westy1970
Lets say ballpark $.40/rd to load premium 260 Remington ammo.
Maybe $500 for a good barrel, and roughly 3K/rds per barrel.
So I'm going to spend like $1700 just shooting the thing.
I can probably shoot 6800rds of premium .223 handloads for that kind of money.
Mike
Tried to tell you...Originally Posted by michael_aos
You know I like my coffee sweet in the morning
and I'm crazy about my tea at night
I know, I know....Originally Posted by Tom Freeman
I misunderstood. I thought you were telling me the .223 bolt-gun was a bad idea. Not the magazines.
Mike
So is there any kind of rule-of-thumb, that says a rifle less than 12lbs (or whatever) won't consistently shoot worth a crap?
Mike
I think the hard part is the MOA at 500 yards in a .223
I mean most any quality .223 will shoot MOA at 100 yards...that's not the hard part...it's when you introduced that 500 yards thingy that things got tough. Even with match ammo and a sled or rail gun I wouldn't bet on MOA at 500 yards.
So, to get rid of some of the variables, to help you achieve your goal, a heavy style barrel might help...but then it blows your weight requirement...that's why I recommened a tension barrel....less weight but stiff barrel capable of rapid cooling.
"So is there any kind of rule-of-thumb, that says a rifle less than 12lbs (or whatever) won't consistently shoot worth a crap?"
No, I have a .223 Savage 111 Chieftain (9#'s w/scope and bi-pod) that will do MOA, but not at 500 yards even with match ammo.....300 yards...yes. I'd say consistent MOA at 300 yards isn't crap even if the rifle only cost me $250 new about 10 years and 10,000 rounds ago.
I say lets all remove the warning labels and let nature take its course.
Plenty of guys achieve MOA or real close to it at 600 yards at Camp Perry every year with a 223. And with iron sights no less...Originally Posted by Colorado Osprey
The problem with holding MOA past 100-200 isnt the caliber, it is the shooters ability to read the wind.
I cant get hung up on a perfect weight. If it carries nice and will hit minute of elk at 300 yards, it doesent matter if its a 5 pound rifle or a 25 pound rifle.
My Remington 700 Ti 6.5-284 shoots fine and carries nice. I wanted a lightweight hunting gun and thats what I got. I was not expecting a benchrest rifle and the accuracy to go with it. My load development pretty much was three 5 shot groups at 425 yards. The warmest one was just inside 5 inches. Slight cratering of the primer and the bolt still opened just fine. Done. Didnt want to work any harder.
You know I like my coffee sweet in the morning
and I'm crazy about my tea at night
OK, lets change that to 400yds.
Hell, even 300yds is probably fine.
My initial thinking was that my AR-10 in 260 Remington shoots sub-MOA @ 500yds. But I don't need to KILL the steel, I just need to hit it.
I was just thinking it would be nice to shoot something accurate for just "screwing around" that doesn't cost me $.57/rd and weigh 15lbs.
Mike
Yeah, I was thinking I could get plenty good accuracy w/77gr SMK's out to 500yds, especially with a kick-butt scope.Originally Posted by Tom Freeman
Mike