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  1. #1

    Default Accuracy Next Steps

    Ok, so I've done quite a bit of OCW testing with several bullets and powders and determined that my Savage .223 with a 22 inch barrel likes 25.4 grains of H335 under 60 gr Hornady soft points, seated to an OAL of 2.245. All testing was done with general Lake City brass, (not sorted by year or weight etc.) trimmed to 1.750 with Wolf .223 primers.

    I have not yet measured the chamber depth to rifling but I do have the equipment to do so.

    Question is: What are my next steps to further work on accuracy for this load, in this rifle? What steps are most likely to produce better accuracy?
    Seating Depth, sort the brass by weight, other?

    Thanx

    Sam
    Last edited by JustAGuy; 05-12-2012 at 19:26. Reason: add bullet description

  2. #2
    Rabid Anti-Dentite Hoser's Avatar
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    Get good bullets and good brass. Just neck size bolt gun brass. Seating depth matters, but not that much with thick jacketed bullets like Sierra or Hornady.

    Most all else is up to the loose nut behind the scope.
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  3. #3
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    An easy place to start is to sort by headstamp.

    LC brass from one year isn't the same as every other.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoser View Post
    Most all else is up to the loose nut behind the scope.
    Truer words were never spoken.

    What kind of accuracy are you actually getting?
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  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim K View Post
    Truer words were never spoken.

    What kind of accuracy are you actually getting?
    I'm seeing fairly consistent .5 to .8 MOA, 5 shot groups at 100 yd.

    I guess I'm just looking to narrow the consistency from round to round now so I can build that ammo for practice and then work on the shooter's skills. Now THAT will eat up some ammo.

    Sam

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by JustAGuy View Post
    I'm seeing fairly consistent .5 to .8 MOA, 5 shot groups at 100 yd.

    I guess I'm just looking to narrow the consistency from round to round now so I can build that ammo for practice and then work on the shooter's skills. Now THAT will eat up some ammo.

    Sam
    If it stays sub MOA out to 300 yards or so, I'd say you're close to done with that bullet (flat base, right?). Not that you can't get your dope farther out, it just won't ever fly like a boat-tail at distance.

    You can do all of these things:

    -Sort brass and bullets by weight
    -Anneal cases
    -De-burr the flash holes
    -Uniform the primer pockets
    -Turn case necks
    -Check concentricity
    -Tinker with distance from lands
    -Get the Pope to bless the rounds


    ... but my guess is you won't get that load a whole lot better than what it is now.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Zombie Steve View Post
    If it stays sub MOA out to 300 yards or so, I'd say you're close to done with that bullet (flat base, right?). Not that you can't get your dope farther out, it just won't ever fly like a boat-tail at distance.
    Yeah, the 60 grainers are flat base. I've done some limited testing with heavier boat tail bullets but didn't have very good results at the 100 yd mark. Maybe after I get this flat base bullet accurate out to 300, I'll go back and re-visit the heavier ones...maybe with a different powder.

    Sam

  8. #8
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    size the brass, rotate 180 degrees size again. (so someone says who shoots competition palma matches)
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  9. #9
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    Then seat the bullet 1/3 of the way, rotate it 1/3, seat another 1/3, ect, ect,ect.

    But if you run your loaded ammo over a concentricity gauge and have minimal runout, you dont need to do it.
    You know I like my coffee sweet in the morning
    and I'm crazy about my tea at night

  10. #10
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    Oh yeah. Square up your dies. When you get them where you want them and before you lock them down, take a small stack of washers (or anything flat about the size of the shell plate) and put them on top of the shell plate. Raise the ram and you'll see it square up once it touches. Leave the ram up and lock down the die.

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