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Last edited by Danimal; 02-27-2016 at 11:52.
It's a talent for sure. I'm in the middle of remodeling my house, pretty much a whole gut, and with knocking down walls and forgetting to use drywall shims for the patches, it took several coats and a shit ton of sanding. I'm so glad I did a HEAVY knockdown texture...hid almost all the flaws![]()
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I hate texture. I can't get the hang of it and it just makes patching and matching a huge pain.
Give me smooth walls any day. I normally use a damp sponge between coats on the tape and screw holes. Last coat gets a light sand to even it out. Patience is the key, and even the best jobs wind up with a little bit of a seam or ripple if you know what to look for. Some colors can really show off or help hide imperfections.
Now horse hair plaster on 120 year old lath boards... Cracks like an egg shell into a million pieces if you try to cut or drill. Once it's up and cured, leave it alone and it will last forever and be as hard as a rock.
In Colorado, I pay someone to texture and depending on the job, I usually just let them hang the dry wall as well.
Drywall rule of thumb
How much and How Long ?
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I was a contractor for nearly 15 years. i do have the talent necessary.
we bought a big fixer upper this last year (3600 sf). After having been out of the business for about 5 years i have hung nearly 45 sheets of drywall as we have fixed up this house, most of it last season in the basement and the kitchen remodel
now in addition to losing 13 pounds (we have been working hard) i have carpal tunnel in my wrists from floating the drywall, nothing like waking up with numb hands every morning
hanging sheetrock is a skill that you should avoid learning if at all possible.
Last edited by rockhound; 07-14-2012 at 01:25.
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Obama, so full of crap it is a miracle Air Force One can even get off the ground,
Stomp texture is all I like to use anymore because it's easy, hides alot of shit and you can patch it back
I've got 15+ sheets to hang as soon as my electrician is done.
Been doing maintenance for over ten years now once you learn the tricks its not so bad.
Don't be stupid!!!!!
^^^ what the Beast said-the "tricks" save your keester.
Throw away the 8 & 10" drywall knives, use a trowel after the initial tape embed with a 6" knife.
You can feather it out much easier and save an assload of sanding.
When you look down the edge of a decent drywall knife you will see it has a slight bow to it. You want to always hold the knife so the concave part of the bow faces the wall, it leaves a slight swale to your mud pass. I used to put a notch on the handle so I always knew by feel which side of the knife faced me.
The real trick is the pressure you put on the knife, too much and you squish out your mud, too little and you leave too much.
Inside corners-invest in a butterfly.
Get your knifework nice and tight and it minimizes your sanding.
That's why I learned to use a trowel, you can float out a seam nice and flat to where you don't have to sand.
No sanding? How so?
Once your mud starts to kick and stiffen a bit you can come back with a sharp 8" mud knife and shave ridges off.
Let it kick a bit more to where it is just getting really hard and come back over it with a stiff sponge that is just damp to smooth it out. Rinse the sponge frequently and don't use it too wet.
You will be amazed how much sanding you save between tight knife work and the sponge trick.
Another advantage to the sponge work-you won't need topping compound because the sponging smooths over small imperfections. If you have to use topping compound you really want your knife work tight. The topping compound is harder than hell to sand.
But yes, rock work sucks.
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grout sponges work the best with the rolled edges.