Need Help: .308 FTF

[Zombie Steve]

FWIW, I have a normal full length sizing die from Lyman, and I've used it with everything from Winchester to PMJ (Korean Nato) brass and never had a problem in my M14..

This should be everything you need to know:

http://www.zediker.com/downloads/14_loading.pdf

[james_bond_007]

Thank you, Zombie Steve :

I've read it and will re-read it again.

[james_bond_007]

This should be everything you need to know:

http://www.zediker.com/downloads/14_loading.pdf

From the article ( p. 4)

Conventional full length sizing dies may not do the trick. As started on, a rifle with a “match” chamber, which “should” (not necessarily wise, but likely) be a little shorter and bigger diameter, may not get along with a standard die. Since the case has to be sized down a little more than most from most other rifle types, a conventional full length die may not be up to it. If the rifle is performing well with full length sizing, run with it, but a small base sizing die will not negatively affect ammunition performance in any M14 rifle and is a recommended purchase, regardless of chamber specs. I’ve seen 14s shoot better groups after a switch to small base sizing. “Aw, c’mon...” No, really. There are high-theory ideas as to why this might happen, and, of course, just keep reading to find them, but it’s mentioned mostly to emphasize that small base sizing will in no way hurt accuracy in this rifle.

Anyone have comments on the highlighted items ?

[Hoser]

Anyone have comments on the highlighted items ?

Only that small base dies worked for him in his rifle.

There is only one way to know.

[james_bond_007]

Hoser...
I have candidly admitted that I am new to reloading. I appreciate your and others' comments and help.
...and I AM looking for help and direction.
Thanks for helping.

Only that small base dies worked for him in his rifle.[emphasis added by 007]

The author, Glen D. Zediker, seems to provide a generalization regarding his observations of his and others' experiences in loading for the M14-class of rifle.

Do you share his opinion that :
1) SB dies will not negatively affect performance (Seems to be in different than MADUSA's opinion in post #21 http://www.ar-15.co/forums/showpost....7&postcount=21 )
and
2) SB dies are a recommended purchase

Any comments to my summery in post #33? http://www.ar-15.co/forums/showpost....9&postcount=23

Again, guys, I'm ASKING...not arguing.

[james_bond_007]

There is only one way to know.

I'd like to be able to have confidence that the issues have a good chance of being solved with SB dies.
Would it be possible to do some measurements/tests ?

Would a Wilson case gauge help ?
Anything other "test" equipment recommendations ?

Also, I've seen a few variants of the SB dies.
1) SB body resizer die (sizes body/shoulder; but, does not resize the neck)
2) SB FL resizer die that resizes body/shoulder/neck

Which one would you recommend ? Can you recommend a specific manufacturer/model ?

[Hoser]

I use my chamber for a gauge.

Using a sharpie, put some marks on the bottom of a resized case so you can try to tell where the case might be sticking. Assuming it has a fat bottom.

I do not own a M1A, so I can not tell you if a small base die will help/hurt. Only your rifle will you if it is working.

[Delfuego]

I gotta still recommend trying a different lot of brass. If the other brass fails you can eliminate the brass as the specific problem. Conversely if it resolves the issue you know it is the brass. This is scientific theory here, process of isolation and elimination.

I would hate for you to keep going around and around with all problem and no answers.

Good luck buddy!

[james_bond_007]

I gotta still recommend trying a different lot of brass. If the other brass fails you can eliminate the brass as the specific problem. Conversely if it resolves the issue you know it is the brass. This is scientific theory here, process of isolation and elimination.

I would hate for you to keep going around and around with all problem and no answers.

Good luck buddy!

Nothing wrong with your method.

I'm going to try reloading some of the commercial brass that worked well for me.

However, shouldn't I be able to do SOMETHING to make the brass I have "work properly" ?



...and I APPRECIATE your "good luck" message

[SA Friday]

After reading the thread, I believe your issue is the brass. More than likely, it was shot in a gun with a fairly liberal chamber and has been bulged out toward the back. I agree with Delfuego in that you need to isolate the issue by changing one thing at a time until you isolate the problem. You need to reload and shoot some basic commercial brass and see it the fail to fire problem goes away. The SB dies might help, but you don't know yet if it's needed or not. isolating the problem to the once fired LC brass would be the first step, not trying the SB dies. If you try commercial brass and it works, then you can look at the dimensions around the webbing of the commercial brass and compare it to the dimensions of an unsized LC brass and see it it's been bulged out. Hoser's suggestion with the marker will also show if the webbing area is bulged far out enough to not chamber even after resizing. Then, the SB dies may take care of the problem. Another choice is if the commercial brass works, but the LC brass is just too blown out, stop using the LC brass. Some military once fired just gets tore up depending on the gun it was shot out of. It may not be reusable.

Last thing I would check it to see if you actually NEED to crimp the cartridges. I have very little M1A experience, but I would work off the hypothesis that crimp isn't needed until I tested it and saw enough set-back for me to start crimping the rounds. This is pretty easy to test. Once you have found some brass that will fully chamber, make a round that is fully resized and the bullet seated to about 2.80", no primer or powder. Then load it in the gun from the mag like you normally would. Remove the round and measure the OAL and see if the bullet was set back into the case. Anything over 0.1" is probably too much and a very very small amount of crimp will stop the movement.