To anneal or not to anneal?

[ray1970]

That is the question.


Thought I might make some .300 Blackout brass out of 5.56 brass. It doesn't look much more difficult than the .30 Herrett I used to make for my Contender. Anyhow, do I need to anneal the new cases?

thanks.

[DSB OUTDOORS]

I didn't when I was making them. I just lubed the crap out of em before running em up in the sizing die. I just got tired of the trimming. I don't have a power trimmer so I said screw it and ordered 1,500 pieces from Hoser.

[ray1970]

I'll probably pick some up from Hoser or have him do my brass this spring. Just thought I might try to do some of my own while the weather is cold.

[DSB OUTDOORS]

I ended up making about 15 before I said to hell with it. Hand crank trimmers suck for mas quantities.

[dwalker460]

I made 100 before I said to hell with it and bought 1K from Hoser. I also made sure I saved all the brass from the factory ammo I shot.

[DFBrews]

this^^^

[Hoser]

Annealing 300 Whisper isnt required. At least I think so.

When you cut off the neck and shoulders there is still some of the annealed portion left. Pretty much the neck is still in the annealed part.

I have a Giraud annealer and I have done it when people asked for it, but I think its a waste.

Now for bigger calibers like 308, 338 and 50, recommended but not mandatory.

[ray1970]

Thanks. Think I'll just skip the annealing for now.

[sabot_round]

I'm not trying to undermine HOSER's post as he's more experienced than I do with the 300 Blackout, but I think that annealing is every worth your time. Every time that neck-up, I anneal it. Call me crazy but it increases the brass lifetime and it reduces the neck splitting by at least 80% depending on the brass. I've necked-up 30-06 to 8mm Mauser for quite a while and I've reloaded them for 6+ at max loads without any hiccups and they're still going strong. I have also necked-down 308 to 243 with the same results or even better.

SR