View Full Version : Help me build a corner pantry
We relocated our dryer out of a corner, and now I would like to build a corner pantry. I would like to be able to store a lot of food in it, so I'll need the shelves to be strong. I've lined out an idea of what I want, but don't really know where to go from here. Could I get some help on here for ideas and techniques so that I can build this both strong and aesthetically pleasing? Let me post some pictures of the area I have to work in and the design I'm thinking about now. Please speak up if you have ideas, see flaws, etc etc.
Area where dryer was. You can see one wall outlet, the unused gas line that has been plugged, and the old vent hole.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-obmMUb1Na7I/UoMFg-zJ6dI/AAAAAAAAFpI/lgT51sZUtWQ/w1109-h624-no/20131112_215123.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-w-jChWHN6io/UoMFjJMyvFI/AAAAAAAAFpQ/6J3kG3u9AvA/w1109-h624-no/20131112_215139.jpg
Here is what I am thinking of doing. Tape on the walls is where I have wall studs. Not 100% sure how much I have in the corner. When I open the access panel for the fire place, I can see that there is a corner stud that is approx 1" to the right of the old gas pipe. The left wall is 44" and the right wall is 39". The square on the left is an idea I'm tossing around for a very tall and narrow broom/mop closet. Not sure how I'd executet that yet.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-pL_gyAc0Vco/UoMWwHgBvHI/AAAAAAAAFqc/Od50Vwghfpc/w1109-h624-no/20131112_230435.jpg
First shelf is 18" high, leaving me plenty of space for 5 gallon buckets. I'm guessing that each shelf will be 3/4" thick, and have measured the rest of the shelves to each have 14" of clearance. The tape is 1" but I measured for 3/4".
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-HVAEP0UxgJM/UoMbNAxMsyI/AAAAAAAAFq4/kJJDrlJwnHs/w1109-h624-no/20131112_232339.jpg
The shelf in the center of the picture is the 4th shelf from the bottom. The top two lines are the top space at 14" and 22". 22" looks too large for me.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-cc5aFkCdFaQ/UoMbK24X6AI/AAAAAAAAFqs/BRjyWaJPSto/w1109-h624-no/20131112_232346.jpg
It will basically be a larger version of this built-in entertainment center.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-S1d8zI5wM88/UoMqtqXHv0I/AAAAAAAAFrc/vcacf5omO8g/w1109-h624-no/20131113_002944.jpg
Will a cross brace like this be enough to support the extra large shelves I'm planning?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-I2FmqxC1UUc/UoMqrUbKwUI/AAAAAAAAFrQ/mFlIvcD2b9Y/w1109-h624-no/20131113_002958.jpg
Here is what I need help with; that I know of. Feel free to point out things I am completely over looking.
- I'm thinking of a regular closet door. I want to add small shelves on the back side of the door to act as a spice rack. I don't think that would work well with a hollow core door. Perhaps use maybe two solid 3/4" pieces of wood that would open in the center?
- Should I go to the ceiling? Either way, what do I do with the extra space?
- What is the best way to cut 3/4" plywood to span the rather wide and unsupported front edge of each shelf? Should I consider a center support?
- Should I make a base/floor in which I could mount a center post for extra support? Even if I nix the center support, will having a 2x4 framed base help me support the not quite triangle shape I have?
- Is that small box on the side for brooms and mops feasible?
I can provide measurements of anything if that will help. Thanks again for any help anyone can provide.
I think you have some good ideas except for what you are planning on storing in there...I'm thinking ammo and handguns and some more ammo and some loaded mags, some more ammo, and maybe a few long guns in the closet.
I would go for a center support or opt for better quality wood than plywood.
Going to the ceiling depends on how tall you are and if you want to reach way up. You can also cut it off at around 6-7' and put something on top be it more storage materials like ammo, or decoration
Frame it properly for a door. The door can handle 10lb or so of spices no problem.
Picture 4 add shelf support brackets where the thick blue tape shows a middle stud if you don't want a center support. Box each shelf with 2x4 framing and add a center support would be cheaper but slightly reduce space.
Above the height of the door you need to step the shelves back.
If you want to go all out get a commercial grade 8' interior door off craigslist and cut it to fit for floor to ceiling access.
The adjustable wire shelving sold at HD/Lowes/etc works quite well. For corners I've abutted two pieces of shelving and zip tied them together.
Just be damn sure to fill in the old dryer vent hole, or the mice will swarm in. Nothing as aggravating as a pantry full of mouse turds and piss, and chewed up stuff.
2x4 shelf framing is overkill IMO, I use 2x2's to frame shelving in my garage and they see FAR more weight than a pantry ever will. Foodstuff and cans ain't that heavy.
I'd also recommend you consider making the shelf tops removable for easy cleaning, repainting, changing shelf paper, etc. Someday you may be glad you did, and you may regret nailing/screwing them down too.
And FWIW, you can get doors at Lowes or Home Depot that have a decorative glass panel in them that say "Pantry".
Lazy susan type shelving then you can get to everything without unloading everything.
Just be damn sure to fill in the old dryer vent hole, or the mice will swarm in. Nothing as aggravating as a pantry full of mouse turds and piss, and chewed up stuff.
2x4 shelf framing is overkill IMO, I use 2x2's to frame shelving in my garage and they see FAR more weight than a pantry ever will. Foodstuff and cans ain't that heavy.
I'd also recommend you consider making the shelf tops removable for easy cleaning, repainting, changing shelf paper, etc. Someday you may be glad you did, and you may regret nailing/screwing them down too.
And FWIW, you can get doors at Lowes or Home Depot that have a decorative glass panel in them that say "Pantry".
Each shelf can easily have #300 of weight on it.
Shelves space 18" apart is a ladder to a 8 year old irving. Secure them and over engineer them.
Definitely mouse proof the vent. Spray foam and a metal backer like steel wool
I would go for a center support or opt for better quality wood than plywood.
Going to the ceiling depends on how tall you are and if you want to reach way up. You can also cut it off at around 6-7' and put something on top be it more storage materials like ammo, or decoration
Better wood is fine. I think what I'll do is frame for a 24" door. I have 36" across the face. That will give me 4-6" on either side of the door for additional shelf supports. Actually I could run each of those supports straight across the front of the door and use it as like finished edge lip like many shelves have.
Frame it properly for a door. The door can handle 10lb or so of spices no problem.
Picture 4 add shelf support brackets where the thick blue tape shows a middle stud if you don't want a center support. Box each shelf with 2x4 framing and add a center support would be cheaper but slightly reduce space.
Above the height of the door you need to step the shelves back.
Agreed on framing for a door. I don't understand quite what you mean about the support brackets. Do you mean the angled ones like you'd use on a wall shelf?
As for the top, I will put the top frame piece just above the door, but run all the walls up to the ceiling with a simple swing open door at the top. Then I'll have another 17" shelf to store sweaters and Christmas and Halloween junk (although I have plenty of space in my attic for all that. I should build shelves up there as well....)
Just be damn sure to fill in the old dryer vent hole, or the mice will swarm in. Nothing as aggravating as a pantry full of mouse turds and piss, and chewed up stuff.
2x4 shelf framing is overkill IMO, I use 2x2's to frame shelving in my garage and they see FAR more weight than a pantry ever will. Foodstuff and cans ain't that heavy.
I'd also recommend you consider making the shelf tops removable for easy cleaning, repainting, changing shelf paper, etc. Someday you may be glad you did, and you may regret nailing/screwing them down too.
Removable shelving isn't a bad idea, however I'm not sure how I'd actually get such large pieces of shelving out once the whole unit is together. I think I'll frame the top, bottom, and door with 2x4s and the walls will be some sort of 3/4" wood with 1x2 all the way around to support each shelf. Basically the stuff you see holding that top shelf of the entertainment center. With framing all the way around, I can easily run another 1x2 from back to front on either side of the door for more center support. That dryer vent goes to our garage. Only raccoons so far, but will definitely cover that hole up. It goes through brick on the other side.
Lazy susan type shelving then you can get to everything without unloading everything.
I thought of this, and my wife suggested this as well, but I think it would be too costly and not as strong for what I want. For two shelves that are eye level and higher, I'm thinking of popping in a simple corner shelf that is only half deep, to help utilize the space. That way we can put several rows of cans/jars for longer term storage.
Another idea my wife had was to start at the second shelf (top horizontal blue tape in picture #4) and have just a very large space at the bottom for laundry stuff. It's not a bad idea, but I think I can do something else for laundry stuff. Also, I don't really want dirty laundry sharing an enclosed area with food. Realistically I know the food will be fine, but for appearances it would look bad. If you have guests over and tell them, "Oh just grab some sugar out of the pantry," and they open the door and there is a laundry basket full of sweaty workout clothes and wet towels. That would probably put most people off.
Thanks everyone for the tips so far, they have been great!
Merl, go home, you're drunk. ;)
For the door spice rack, you can get the wire ones that have screw hole attachment points at the top. This way, you can get away with a hollow core door - they have a solid piece across the top inch or so.
There are also the wire ones that have a hanger top that work well.
You can never have enough storage.
I agree about the laundry stuff, wrong place for it. Soaps & dryer sheets with foods? Bleh. But consider some space for storing appliances like electric skillets, popcorn poppers, bread machine, all the stuff we all have and rarely use.
For the door spice rack, you can get the wire ones that have screw hole attachment points at the top. This way, you can get away with a hollow core door - they have a solid piece across the top inch or so.
There are also the wire ones that have a hanger top that work well.
You can never have enough storage.
That is good advice. I think I'll look into that. How do you mount to a hollow core door though?
I agree about the laundry stuff, wrong place for it. Soaps & dryer sheets with foods? Bleh. But consider some space for storing appliances like electric skillets, popcorn poppers, bread machine, all the stuff we all have and rarely use.
Yes, I've decided that I'll just measure our current laundry basket that is pushed up against the wall, and build a cabinet around it. Large space for laundry on bottom, shelves for detergents and towels and stuff on the top. Will also place another shelf above the washer dryer and frame in a 3/8" piece of drywall (removable) to hide the water heater.
Maybe I'll take some pictures of the room as it is now, and turn this thread into a Laundry Room Makeover thread like I plan to do with my patio make over thread.
If you can get someone's extra formica counter boards cheap they'd make some sturdy shelves once you take the front lip off.
That is good advice. I think I'll look into that. How do you mount to a hollow core door though?
Most, if not all, hollow core doors are constructed with about a 1.5 x 1.5 piece of solid wood across the top. You can usually see it when looking at the edge/side of the door. If not, you can find the edge with a stud finder.
You can screw the top hanging shelf mounts into this piece and it will easily hold.
The lower hanging shelf mounting holes are really just to keep the rack from swinging a bit when you open the door. I have used small drywall type plastic inserts into drilled holes in the hollow door to secure the bottom with screws - they are not taking any vertical stress, and very very little horizontal stress.
Another idea: You could mount two vertical strips of that adjustable slotted shelving hanger stuff to the inside of the door - top holes and bottom holes into solid wood (there is normally about a 1.5 x 3 or 4 piece of solid wood along the bottom). Then you could use adjustable shelving/baskets hanging off those - probably more expensive.
Maybe I'll take some pictures of the room as it is now, and turn this thread into a Laundry Room Makeover thread like I plan to do with my patio make over thread.
Open the door and provide enough beer and I'm sure you'd get LOTS of suggestions!
I have a 32 or 34" prehung you can have. Cut the door down a bit only to find out it was the wrong width
I have a 32 or 34" prehung you can have. Cut the door down a bit only to find out it was the wrong width
Thank you but I think I'm going to look for a 24" door at the Habitat for Humanity Restore.
36451
Here's the insides of an interior door I found today.
Cardboard on edge in the center. Edge is 5/8 bottom is 2" for trimming. Block near handle.
Here's the insides of an interior door I found today.
Cardboard on edge in the center. Edge is 5/8 bottom is 2" for trimming. Block near handle.
That is a serious YIKES. Don't tell anyone, but that is what my front door is like. You better believe I measured it to keep an eye out for a better one when I went shopping for doors yesterday.
I picked this solid core pre-hung up at the Habitat Restore at I-25 and Broadwayish for only $30. They had a hollow-core with a handle for $55. I'll use this one. They also had what appeared to be at least 10 brand new 16" pre-hung doors, but a 16" door on a 36" span would have been silly.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Z5YHxZHnZDk/UolGAncwFMI/AAAAAAAAFys/4Vm3r9k86p4/w351-h624-no/20131117_154100.jpg
Here is what is done now. I'm trying to get the other wall up, hole in drywall patched, and shelf supports on the walls done tonight.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9i1-1AD2VGY/Uolq8yoEa4I/AAAAAAAAFzM/vfeA9GV0ScA/w351-h624-no/20131117_181836.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-n8IwbvEdtyo/UolrA9hImQI/AAAAAAAAFzY/JyjEuyq0B-E/w351-h624-no/20131117_181854.jpg
Here is what I've learned so far.
- Home Depot apparently sells 8' 2x4's and 2x4's that are marked as 8' long, but are only 92.5". That is 1/2" shorter than what I needed, causing me to use two base plates to make up the difference.
- If you're going to wear a tool belt, you have to put each tool you get out of it back each time you pull it out, otherwise you leave them all over the place and there is no point in wearing the belt.
- Don't use a crappy tape measure. The whatever amount of dollars you'd spend on a new one, that isn't twisted at the end, will be worth not messing around with it twisting around on you every time.
- Have a level, a T-square, and a small square, at least.
- If you are working in two rooms, don't carry your beer back and forth, just open a beer for each room. This will save you time and keep your hands free.
Big Wall
11-17-2013, 20:23
FYI
You have a big mouse in there already.
did you consider 2 16" doors together french style? they'd be less obtrusive in the room when open
did you consider 2 16" doors together french style? they'd be less obtrusive in the room when open
I did, but that is above my skill and I wanted as much on the sides of the door as possible so I could run cross supports from the front wall to the back wall. Now that I have both the side walls up, I think two 16" doors would have been pretty tough (for me) to frame up.
Snowman78
11-18-2013, 10:01
"- If you are working in two rooms, don't carry your beer back and forth, just open a beer for each room. This will save you time and keep your hands free."
This is the best advice I have ever gotten when it comes to home improvements!
All "eight foot" studs are 92 5/8" long. So, when you add the top and bottom plates you end up with a 8' wall.
All "eight foot" studs are 92 5/8" long. So, when you add the top and bottom plates you end up with a 8' wall.
Aren't there usually two bottom plates on a standard wall? I ended up with one top plate and two bottom plates and I still had to cut some off. Pretty good chance my house isn't exactly 8' though. I got both walls up either way. I'm going to have to pull one wall out to fit all the shelves in though I think.
- Top plate
I Stud
- Bottom plate
- sill plate - treated 2x4 for use on concrete footers.
Roger Ronas
11-19-2013, 16:29
Actually there are two different piles at the lumberyard, 8'(96") and what they call precuts (92 5/8")
Roger
All "eight foot" studs are 92 5/8" long. So, when you add the top and bottom plates you end up with a 8' wall.
Actually there are two different piles at the lumberyard, 8'(96") and what they call precuts (92 5/8")
Roger
I was gonna say - I always buy 96" ones.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-n8IwbvEdtyo/UolrA9hImQI/AAAAAAAAFzY/JyjEuyq0B-E/w351-h624-no/20131117_181854.jpg
Here is what I've learned so far.
- Home Depot apparently sells 8' 2x4's and 2x4's that are marked as 8' long, but are only 92.5". That is 1/2" shorter than what I needed, causing me to use two base plates to make up the difference.
- If you're going to wear a tool belt, you have to put each tool you get out of it back each time you pull it out, otherwise you leave them all over the place and there is no point in wearing the belt.
- Don't use a crappy tape measure. The whatever amount of dollars you'd spend on a new one, that isn't twisted at the end, will be worth not messing around with it twisting around on you every time.
- Have a level, a T-square, and a small square, at least.
- If you are working in two rooms, don't carry your beer back and forth, just open a beer for each room. This will save you time and keep your hands free.
I would also suggest a ladder as you don't appear to be very tall.
Actually there are two different piles at the lumberyard, 8'(96") and what they call precuts (92 5/8")
Roger
I must be going to the wrong places or looking in the wrong place then, I Haven't seen 96" in a long time. It's either 92 5/8" or 10'
Aren't there usually two bottom plates on a standard wall? I ended up with one top plate and two bottom plates and I still had to cut some off. Pretty good chance my house isn't exactly 8' though. I got both walls up either way. I'm going to have to pull one wall out to fit all the shelves in though I think.
Actually, typical framing uses two top plates with the top one being used to "lock in" intersecting walls.
A little more progress. I've been trying to do at least one thing a night, which is much better than most of my projects. I originally bought some Ultra white paint at Depot for $31ish. My wife reminded me that Habitat has gallons of paint for only $10. I went in there and they had latex like I wanted, but this was the lightest color they had.
Tomorrow I will cut the rest of the shelves, pull out the wall on the left, place the shelves, then put the wall back up, then run supports across the middle of each shelf from wall to wall. Saturday will probably see me framing up the door and dry walling everything in. Then probably put the spice racks on the back side of the door. Last will likely be installing strip lights on both sides of the door on every shelf (top, angled slightly down), and figuring out a way to have them turn on when the door is opened.
Pictures:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7qJfzDMYomI/Uo2PfLUMk3I/AAAAAAAAF4g/T5gvBT4vP84/w315-h560-no/20131120_214333.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XDlsMrmUwNA/Uo7XFS5QY1I/AAAAAAAAF6o/UO4hM7k6yUY/w996-h560-no/20131121_210116.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mIEMOG-ic-A/Uo7W6-HBuMI/AAAAAAAAF6Q/3MTFfKHwbPI/w996-h560-no/20131121_210037.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-cmbBA8POMQ0/Uo7Wyz_aJSI/AAAAAAAAF6E/Q4n9p1Pe7Lo/w996-h560-no/20131121_210007.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-MAM9GsnBIMM/Uo7wq8hMdOI/AAAAAAAAF68/mJcPBTySNWo/w315-h560-no/20131121_225027.jpg
jerrymrc
11-22-2013, 22:33
Looks good. Not deep enough that things will get lost. I might have put one more shelf leaving 20" on top for large items.
There will be a final shelf on the top. Just waiting to put the door in first so I know where to locate it. It will serve as the "roof" of the pantry, and the base of the dead space on top so I can put seasonal junk up there. Was going to work on it more tonight, but took the night off and tried to teach my daughter how to play videos games.
buffalobo
11-23-2013, 07:16
Looks good. Any redneck carpenter would hire you. :thumbup:
Any consideration of stash spot/safe/secret compartments?
Looks good. Any redneck carpenter would hire you. :thumbup:
Any consideration of stash spot/safe/secret compartments?
My wife basically told me I was a loser if I DIDN'T put one in. I haven't really thought about it though. The only real option is drywalling both sides of the walls and making an easily removeable panel on the inside. Don't really own anything to put I there though.
Okay, getting pretty excited about being nearly done. Lots of work to be done yet with the door, but I feel like I've come to the half way point. I'm really dreading painting this though. I will put those small rounded half shelves on the other side when I get the wall back up.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ksdc4MHDbGI/UpEZLsezrFI/AAAAAAAAF8c/GoIxjvGHp0w/w996-h560-no/20131123_140647.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-OptShxF-wDU/UpFOct7BocI/AAAAAAAAF-Y/ZGI6GtQLvLc/w315-h560-no/20131123_175506.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-rskOJLQ5zpk/UpFQSRSUrmI/AAAAAAAAF_Y/1r-Xhf6QZHI/w315-h560-no/20131123_180224.jpg
I did some measurements of those corner shelves. Each level (left + center + right) will hold an additional 26-52 cans depending on the size. The circular shape is kind of awkward, but I was so proud of myself for the idea that I kept them in there.
Hanging the door has been the most difficult part and I didn't do a great job.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-P5s9AK8PIgc/UpGUUqqmFGI/AAAAAAAAGAg/LhB4QkA7XPI/w315-h560-no/20131123_225209.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-NeR3P8JWMF0/UpGQGZ2Ut0I/AAAAAAAAF_4/T4vVYvTGfvc/w315-h560-no/20131123_223515.jpg
Here are some shots of how things fit in there. The perspective doesn't present well on camera, as you can fit 5 more pressure cookers on that same shelf, as well as at least 5 more 5-gallon buckets in the bottom.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-37RGJj1vlpM/UpGWZ5KemOI/AAAAAAAAGA8/Vop0hth78vo/w996-h560-no/20131123_225838.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-M4_4NAu_Fgc/UpGWcsmIf5I/AAAAAAAAGBI/yGXKIh0REGg/w996-h560-no/20131123_225850.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-HQDRC4GLLno/UpGWewehGtI/AAAAAAAAGBU/maDs2tXhnZY/w996-h560-no/20131123_225913.jpg
ChunkyMonkey
11-24-2013, 02:04
Aren't you tempted to put a gun wall safe on the inside?
I have other plans for a wall safe for sure.
I screwed up by not locating and installing the top shelf before putting the side wall back on. I was waiting to see how high the door would end up, and now I can't fit a shelf in there unless I build it in smaller pieces. I think I may end up doing that, as it won't need to be nearly as finished as the rest of the pantry.
Does anyone know if they make corner metal for drywall, that is 45 degrees instead of 90 degrees? Or if not, what is the suggestion for how to protect the corners on the outside when I'm at the drywall stage?
With no built up corners you'll have nothing to nail one of the sides to. They have a paper with 2 piece reinforced metal for forming to angles. Installing is then easiest using corner bead spray adhesive.
they have bull nose for your application. 45 degree corners are a bitch.
I'll look those up, thanks guys.
What if I just used some 1/2" wood instead of drywall? I don't need it for structural support or anything, but I bet I could just cut 45 angle into one of the pieces to butt them together flush. Then I wouldn't have to worry about the edge getting chipped if someone bumps up against it. I could get away with only using 1/4" if using wood, but I think it'd be easier to put the angle into 1/2". Not to mention it will give me just that much more to drill into should I decide to hang something on the wall. Thoughts on that?
I did find this: http://hamiltonnw.com/AP_TrimTexBullnoseCornerBeads.asp
So I mentioned earlier that I hung the door and it was a pain. Well, I didn't really know the proper way to hang a door, I just put it in there. It wasn't working the way I wanted, so I looked up some videos and found this one (sorry in advance), among others:
cx0A4uJQXak
Anyway, I rehung the door tonight. I don't know if I had a crappy pre-hung door, wouldn't stay square no matter what, but it took me HOURS to get this thing hung. It's still not as good as it should be, but it is slightly better than before. I'll update as I complete everything.
Chalk board paint will go on this wall against the door.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ZcYweuOLw3A/UpwbyciJ4aI/AAAAAAAAGKY/98_jShsjJc8/w315-h560-no/20131201_223354.jpg
Here is the bull nose. They really only had 90 degree, so I just smashed it down to screw it down.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-PofUwhl1DnI/Upwb17ODlzI/AAAAAAAAGKk/3olZ4qVyhtk/w315-h560-no/20131201_223408.jpg
Very top shelf. Probably just put a decorative curtain across the top.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-wiQ2kDIxOTk/UpwcKl8eb2I/AAAAAAAAGLU/qVfw2PQPFRc/w996-h560-no/20131201_223531.jpg
Mostly painted on the inside.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Wwg0wMTjAgU/UpwcAHpzz-I/AAAAAAAAGKw/EdTrGXdl450/w315-h560-no/20131201_223450.jpg
Upclose of the bullnose.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-mxi30zWoJ3w/UpwcFaoyfjI/AAAAAAAAGK8/VS9YJRF_Hy4/w315-h560-no/20131201_223511.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-WpytNvmIr2M/UpwcG8SqJ1I/AAAAAAAAGLI/1rlD-p9DPlw/w315-h560-no/20131201_223518.jpg
I put a water proof sealant across the edges of all the shelves. That way if there are any spill, it will keep everything on the shelf, instead of running down the walls.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-BDjEafkqdxU/UpweFHuvaOI/AAAAAAAAGLw/2ZPA09pu_vo/w996-h560-no/20131201_224252.jpg
I messed around with the LED rope lights I have on hand while I wait for the 16' rope light I just ordered to arrive. I think it is going to turn out great and the lighting will be just enough. The lights will go from floor to the top, across the top, then back down to the floor on the other side.
I'm thinking of pulling a switch out of a refrigerator to work the same way so the lights come on when the door is opened. I could use a plunger style switch if I need to. Any suggestions for types of switches?
motion activation
http://www.walmart.com/ip/20439936?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=3&adid=22222222227015543498&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=40647437230&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=40017286630&veh=sem
RE: DOORS
I never shim an exterior door base, it leads to threshold warping and cracking. get the floor level with patch if you need to. I shim from the hinge side first. You'd have to be inside to run the screws. Really helps having 2 people so you can put equal shims from both sides that way the door isn't pulled at an angle. Once you've got the hinge side level and true you go on to the strike side. Level it, true it and check the gap at the top and strike side before placing your first screw. 3 screws each side and no need for top or bottom shims.
Though it's tempting, don't screw thru your shims, hit just below. Leaving the little black plastic holder in a new prehung door on the strike helps especially if you're solo
I ended up making my opening wider, as per the video I posted. I think it was too wide and was getting frustrated. Since I knew both my 2x4s were level and plumb, I just screwed the hinge side straight to the 2x4 and shimmed the strike side. That made my already too wide gap even wider since I put all the space on one side, but then I had even more shims left to deal with it. I have a pretty wide gap on the strike side, almost to the point that the stop didn't touch the door edge. I brought it in though and the stop holds the door and the strike plate properly holds the latch. I actually prefer it this loose as even if the door, or jamb swells, I should still have plenty of play to prevent binding.
Seems like it's taking a long time, but it is certainly the best, and most well thought out project I've ever done. Also, it looks great in the room in person. I almost can't even imagine the room any other way already.
how about a door switch?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KKNJPI
That might work actually, as I happen to have an extra spot in the door to mount that. One of the other suggested links is a magnetic switch. I may consider that option as well.
Typical location is in the jamb, hinge side, just behind stop. Access to get wire there, after the fact, will be your biggest issue.
The wiring is exactly what I was thinking about. Especially now that I've walled in the exterior...
New light. Now I can finally see. Before was a single bulb fixture that was not adequate for the room.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xq-HbsnSsWs/Uq0DDp2pdiI/AAAAAAAAGf0/TA-pXSB4KvE/w996-h560-no/20131214_181656_Richtone%2528HDR%2529.jpg
Made sure to counter sink the holes on this part. I used three different drill bits.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-pE7A2K08vxg/Uq0HA6p0CKI/AAAAAAAAGgY/0u3DxFZQP4Y/w315-h560-no/20131214_183348.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-pGhDmtbyHSU/Uq0Is3yWe4I/AAAAAAAAGgo/BNcm1WQkSTs/w996-h560-no/20131214_184000.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-uVqOeaHIXBQ/Uq0kH8WtB8I/AAAAAAAAGg8/y80FZ0qZXuU/w315-h560-no/20131214_203801.jpg
The lip on the bull nose has been a pain to feather out. This is the third, and hopefully last, time I've let dry and sanded before putting on another coat. I changed directions, so it doesn't have to be quite as smooth now.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0hpCcrP8zRw/Uq1ASivM9oI/AAAAAAAAGhg/elmwRL1umb4/w315-h560-no/20131214_223455_Richtone%2528HDR%2529.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-nMyplHwNBeU/Uq1AUAz_ajI/AAAAAAAAGhs/8y8N_4LCDjQ/w315-h560-no/20131214_223511_Richtone%2528HDR%2529.jpg
Got this rack at Home Depot for $32ish. Had to cut the bottom three "shelves" off as the spacing didn't match the spacing of my shelves. I could have made it work, but two of the shelves would have been just below a shelf with the door closed, restricting the height of what you could place there. The space between the door and shelf is 4" deep; the shelves are 5" deep. I made it work and honestly this probably looks better than a wooden one I was planning on making. For $10 more I could have gotten a rack that extended across 90% of the door but I was feeling cheap and thinking, "I don't want too much storage." [facepalm]
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-5PoyVWaACf8/Uq08-nSMJ_I/AAAAAAAAGhQ/7alSr-Y6LQk/w315-h560-no/20131214_222404.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3w8rKHB0eIQ/Uq1AWum0ZMI/AAAAAAAAGiE/3EGOmjXoXrk/w996-h560-no/20131214_222740.jpg
I've got everything for the lighting except the switch and the lights so far. This is most dim, brightest, and a sample of the lighting on the most bright setting on just the left side. I won't really have any shadows once I get lights on both sides.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-iAhDrGu_mzE/Uq1J1d0hyqI/AAAAAAAAGiw/IXEUkhg7lnA/w996-h560-no/20131214_231743.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-tqFbzLRJhXQ/Uq1Jx6h3wbI/AAAAAAAAGiY/jPjzbELHh2Y/w996-h560-no/20131214_231753.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0KNeZA5L4qk/Uq1JzmX9YII/AAAAAAAAGik/vx-VIMet-N8/w996-h560-no/20131214_231837.jpg
Lights finally showed up today and the magnet switch should be here by Friday. The Radio Shack lights are on the left in both of the following pictures. Radio Shack lights definitely more bright and more yellow. Radio Shack lights are much larger. The case on the RS lights is clunky and loose (you can shake it and hear the light strip rattle around). The protection around the Amazon lights is like molded together. I bet if you cut the Amazon lights, each section would still remain water proof.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-fRnB6AGnGVY/UrEcoyTC0nI/AAAAAAAAGns/N8i4QVmIBOQ/w996-h560-no/20131217_205506.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-CbmBynR2yX0/UrEeG11pQrI/AAAAAAAAGn8/F9nPJm3EEjA/w996-h560-no/20131217_210047.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-QmlW1xdk3ZI/UrEeUDFsYxI/AAAAAAAAGoI/3XOlBAYRks0/w996-h560-no/20131217_210216.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_gAXzxspIB8/UrE7e2EezdI/AAAAAAAAGo0/xt6ckTI-T6M/w315-h560-no/20131217_230600.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-qYpzzcg2fXw/UrFLwc53iGI/AAAAAAAAGqM/Ny6R69XB6w4/w996-h560-no/20131217_233132.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-uV_FMk12FFE/UrFLtXErxII/AAAAAAAAGp0/zfMZ6WRY8zc/w315-h560-no/20131217_233257.jpg
I'm having a heck of a time trying to get the chalkboard paint to go on smooth, even though I'm using a foam roller. I have a feeling some wet sanding is going to be in my future. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. I tried doing some Youtube searches and found tips, but they vary too much to be helpful for me.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-myXBJUIK5Hc/Uq_Ltkq2ldI/AAAAAAAAGnA/ZliXjWe-UfM/w315-h560-no/20131216_205735.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-c2q4JGXoq3k/Uq_DClOS8EI/AAAAAAAAGmU/nwFdRmag73A/w996-h560-no/20131216_202035.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UK7LOd3VEJI/Uq_LjzWsFCI/AAAAAAAAGm0/hSAGtI39NeA/w996-h560-no/20131216_205556.jpg
I was really hoping the glass would have come out better, already being very smooth and all. If I can't make it look great, I'm going to scrape it off. This last picture is only a first coat to test how it goes on.
have you tried laying the door on its back and putting a very heavy coat on? bassically allowing it to puddle and cure.
I have't. I'm going to look into thinning it out to put it on in as light of coats as possible.
So I got my magnetic door switch in. http://www.amazon.com/Directed-Electronics-8601-Magnetic-Switch/dp/B0009SUF08/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1387577805&sr=8-1&keywords=Magnetic+door+switch
I hook it up as Normal Closed. As soon as I hook it up, the light comes on like it is supposed to. I close the door and the light goes off like it is supposed to. When I open the door again, it does not come back on. I can hear a soft clicking coming from the power supply. Nothing that I do with the switch will turn the light back on. I have to unplug the power supply for a good 10 minutes before it will work again, and then it is the same thing all over again. When reading the reviews, some people talked about it being sensitive to voltage or something. MORE people commented that they were using it for the same application that I am, and it is working great. Any ideas what is going on?
ETA: Nevermind, I read the reviews again and all the bad reviews are exactly what I'm experiencing. Sounds like it is just cheap. I'm going to call Hobby Lobby and see if they have anything. Anyone have an ideas for local places in the mean time?
Are you using a relay on that switch? I used one of those switches on my toolbox with the same type of lights. That switch will only run a couple feet of those lights before its beyond capacity. Mine did weird on/off stuff before it melted. Using a relay fixed it.
Feel the switch and see if its hot.
Switch wasn't hot, at one point I thought I smelled something burning, but neither the switch, or the power supply was hot to the touch at all. What kind of relay? What size? Would I get the relay at an auto parts store or Ace?
I used a 10a surface mount relay in my project because i had other stuff going on. Figure 1/2a per meter if those strips have 150leds per meter. Automotive relays work fine, or you could get a relay and box from radio shack to do it. I got my switch from ace on 120th and Colorado, wired it into a project box with my relay and a toggle switch so i could manually turn them off.
After watching an instructional video, I realized I had the switch wired incorrectly. Now that I have it wired correctly, it is still not working. Now it just stays off, or stays on, depending on how it is wired. Still sounds like a relay may be the answer. Is the purpose of the relay to reduce the draw going into the switch so it does not get over loaded?
Yeah. Those switches are rated around 1/2a. I figured out mine was arcing and sticking to itself with the higher amperage running through it. With the relay in place, the switch just sees a light draw.
My switch would get warm to the touch after a few minutes of use.
Its possible that by using the switch under high loads, the spring steel inside heated and lost its "springiness", therefore not switching anymore
Worth taking apart, or should I just get another one? Also, can I still use the dimmer switch I bought?
What is the dimmer rated for?
I would get another switch, those things arent generally serviceable
No idea on the dimmer. I don't even need it really. It's this one. http://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Dimming-Controller-LED-Lights/dp/B003L4KKF2/ref=pd_sim_e_19
I'll just use it else where. Probably on the fish tank.
Dimmer should be fine. Unless you have like 35ft of that stuff in there.
I ran 14ft of the 300led/m stuff in my truck box and it pulled about 4a. That dimmer is good for 8.
It's a 16ft cable. I think I'm going to run to Radio Shack and see if they have a momentary switch that will work. They acted like they didn't, but I used to work there and Radio Shack is dead to me if they don't have something that will work.
Radio shack probably wont have anything that functions the way you want and looks decent honestly. Their switch selection sucks.
If you still want to go the magnetic route, I may have another surface mount relay, just grab a small project box and small project board and we can wire it up.
I picked up a roller switch from Radio Shack, and when I picked my daughter up, happened across a broken refrigerator. I just popped the switch of the fridge and will be using that. I can take the Radio Shack switch back. You're right about their switch selection.
Is there a part number on the switch? Wanna make sure you can put that kind of current through it.
Yes, but it is glued to the wall now. ETA: 5A-125V 2.5A-250V.
I'll get pictures of it all when I'm done wiring. Now, do I break the power wire or the ground? Someone said ground for electronics, and hot for electrical. Which one is this?
Either one. Doesnt matter in this situation.
ETA: That switch should handle it.
Okay, I watered down the chalk board paint (1oz of water to 1/2 quart) and used the foam roller as a brush. Goes on MUCH smoother. It's starting to look good now. Chalk boards should be done by tonight/tomorrow and the only thing left to do will be to put on the final paint on the pantry, that matches the rest of the room, and the trim around the door. So it probably won't get finished much more for a while since there are a lot of other things I need to do before painting the entire room. Thanks everyone for the help. I'll probably make a Youtube video of the finished product.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_tD-llIL-Xs/UrTx8Kc9FgI/AAAAAAAAGss/epIp5YHevKw/w996-h560-no/20131220_184201.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-fZB3kWF6_lk/UrTyAajyOdI/AAAAAAAAGs4/Amm395T0Y-4/w996-h560-no/20131220_184215.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-VCpQtxOUkPM/UrU1Q-FX_AI/AAAAAAAAGuo/ZGwJL3Fug2Y/w315-h560-no/20131220_232918_Richtone%2528HDR%2529.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mrS5_wihwBo/UrU1HRN5WkI/AAAAAAAAGuc/m8z31IPoyN8/w315-h560-no/20131220_232840_Richtone%2528HDR%2529.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-4LFrlEbkz8Y/UrU06M27cYI/AAAAAAAAGuQ/o0S0RSEfPek/w315-h560-no/20131220_232742.jpg
Chalk board paint looks a lot better.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gcW3unr2TIc/UrUWp_luFJI/AAAAAAAAGtM/SV9eKr28fgg/w996-h560-no/20131220_211841.jpg
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