With 3k oil changes you can probably go regular or semi synth. Oil will be dirtier but still be good to go.
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With 3k oil changes you can probably go regular or semi synth. Oil will be dirtier but still be good to go.
Some people who go 10K don't change their filter somewhere in between that. I'm old school and with dino still do 3-4k tops. If i ran straight syn that long between changes, i'd do oil filters @ the 5 k mark.Quote:
Originally Posted by Erni
I change my filter at every oil change. 10K for the turbo car on M1, twice a year for the CTD on Dino Rotella.Quote:
Originally Posted by Great-Kazoo
Fuel filter (diesel) once a year. I've seen people go years without changing their fuel filter and they're usually the ones crying about their high pressure pump taking a shit.
Use a local wrench to maintain the Audi, not even sure WTF he does besides fixing broke shit and oil changes, I trust him to do me right (family friend).
Damn dealer service tech idiots that can't even read. 9 months ago got a 150k "change all my fluids" service to reset the clock on everything. Just long enough later that I didn't think it was related, started getting a low speed vibration on the truck, mostly when turning like pulling out of the driveway. Been annoying trying to figure it out. Wheel bearing? U-Joints? Something even more expensive and pain in the ass?
Took a chance today and completely redrained and filled the rear diff, making sure to use the right oil. And it's now running smooth as silk again.
Seems that when they changed out the oil in the rear differential, the dealer service tech didn't know that my Tacoma Sport came with a limited slip differential, and needed the friction modifier added, even though they work on how many Tacomas each day? I mean, the big f*cking sticker about an inch away from the fill hole, only tells them the right stuff to use even.
With all of this talk about oil I can?t be the only one wondering how often Jer changes his in the Tesla.
I just did the 722.9 Transmission service.
It was horrible.
[RANT]
1. damn gasket moved un-noticeably little while installing. I already put the fluid in. Had to take the pan out laying upside-down, while fluid was in there. Reinsert the pan, and screw that while holding the pan w/ 4-5qt of ATF134. Spilled some on my face, and my hair.
2. They pan screw needed to be set at 4N-m (35in-lb or 4ft-lb) of torque. The damn screw broke twice while installing w/ torque wrench. It was made to break even little bit more of a torque (known to break even at slightly higher torque part # ELR-896000).
I had to use 2 previous screws.
3. The cheap OBD II reader would NOT read the ATF temperatures. It had to be at 45C to see the correct volume of the fluid. So, I had to goto Harbor Freight tools and had to get an infrared temp reader.
4. I had to fill (and refill) under the vehicle while car was running. Glad that my arm didn't get burned by exhaust or catalytic.
5. I had to shampoo my hair 3 times after the job was done. Each 3 times, I had to let shampoo stay on my hair for about 2-3min each.
[/RANT]
Welcome to tasting/wearing automotive fluids and/or caustic cleaners.
It gets much more fun when it happens at operating temperature. :)
FYI- 4Nm does equal about 35 inch lbs.
35 inch lbs does not equal 4 ft lbs.
35 inch pounds is less than half a foot pound of torque.
If you were tightening those little bolts to 4 ft lbs you were going about 8x over specs.
Sorry. Early morning math sucks.
Still, 4Nm doesn?t equate to 4 ft lbs no matter how the math works.
If you were torqueing those little fasteners to 4Nm or 35 inch lbs you were golden. If you were going with 4 ft lbs then that?s likely why a couple of them broke.
4Nm is tiny. I think the gun scope torque wrench goes that low.
35 inlb is about right.
And the oil at temp thing is anoying no matter what.
IIf you were thorough in reading the instructions on the shampoo, it says ? Lather, let stand 5 minutes, rinse and repeat......... [Tooth]Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPrena
That could waste an entire day in the shower, depending on the size of the bottle.Quote:
Originally Posted by SideShow Bob
The dumb transmission in my Amigo has no dipstick and is a bottom fill. Not even a side fill, BOTTOM fill. Thanks GM.
Fill location is toward the end of the video.Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
http://youtu.be/1aFCEOUgdbE
(I checked the Amigo drawings and it's in the same place as the Trooper)
Yep, we learned that working on it parked on a trailer in the desert.
Ah, the Aussie Amigo.
So how does one fill from the bottom? Do they make transmission enema bags?
Pretty much. We bought a handy piece of tube that screws onto common auto fluid bottle thread sizes. Insert tube into hole, get the bottle as high as you can and squeeze, repeat until fluid starts coming back out. Pretty much the same as the side fill on the transfer case (which I also did laying in the dirt) or the differential.
Why on earth would they make a bottom fill anything.
Because the hot shot know it all junior engineers want to be managers before they know jack shit about engineering and design. And then approve crap like this. And now instead of a salty bastard that gets things right you get a know it all that missed the fact your trans lacks a fill port.Quote:
Originally Posted by CavSct1983
The fluid pump/ATF jug shown in the video, or a real multi-use one, are necessary if you're going to work on stuff. That fluid pump is also needed to fill diff's or it can be a real bitch and waste fluid. It doesn't hurt to have a fluid extraction vacuum pump either.Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
Just don't buy the one they sell at Harbor Freight that attaches to a drill because it's junk and doesn't work.
Absolutely nothing worse than 90 weight gear oil in your hair. You can wash it 100 times and still be smelling it for days...
Noxzema original cream works pretty well & you still have hair when you're done.Quote:
Originally Posted by TFOGGER
Quote:
Originally Posted by ray1970
Yeah, sorry, not 4ft-lb. but 4N-m or 35in-lb.Quote:
Originally Posted by Erni
My torque wrench is in-lb, and it had to be taped because the darn adjuster keep sliding.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SideShow Bob
I am probably going to take shower again, because my mother is coming again from Aurora, due to small leak.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gman
Had to go all the way to Brighton NAPA to buy 2qt of this FEBI bilstein fluid. :(
I did a differential on both car at once about month back. The 75W-140 FM smell is still stinking the garage.Quote:
Originally Posted by TFOGGER
If this stuff gets on, it will be an unwated cologne for a week. :D
Just get the car to sit on a bottle of fluid.Quote:
Originally Posted by CavSct1983
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPrena
next time try a light (very light film of grease) to keep the gasket on the transmission itself. This allows you to see position of gasket and not fight it and the pan while reinstalling.
The bolt was screwed with much less torque So, I had to tighten it little bit more with torque screw (this time it is taped) and filled 1.5qt
https://i.imgur.com/P12FNzP.jpg?1
1. Had to take the under carriage out before doing anything.
https://i.imgur.com/wCCcZkc.jpg?1
2. As you see, torque wrench is now taped, because it needed to be screwed at very low torque 4Nm. Lock won't stay well with this low setting. (Cheap torque wrench)
https://i.imgur.com/jD4MPqH.jpg?1
3. Filler bolt I had to spend $17 on. :(
https://i.imgur.com/IDbE6Xt.jpg?1
4. After hearing about scary story on this thread, I backed it up with jack stand on AND Jack.
https://i.imgur.com/25GfjT7.jpg?1
5. Transmission was too hot, so I had to wait till it goes down to 45C.
https://i.imgur.com/SW39Frf.jpg?1
6. While waiting it to cool down, I spend time aerating the lawn.
https://i.imgur.com/7N1dT2Z.jpg?1
7. Bought this at Lowes 10-11 years ago for about $7 +/-. One of the best investment for the lawn.
https://i.imgur.com/ZMGJDAu.jpg?1
8a. Start pumping the transmission fluid in.
https://i.imgur.com/GtVAKEd.jpg?1
8b. Harbor freight fluid pump worked well.
I will use the rifle cleaning rod and clean out the hose.
It would've been easier if I did that. Thanks to the tip.Quote:
Originally Posted by Great-Kazoo
Some people had common complaint on gasket and 4Nm torque.
https://i.imgur.com/BZjV4wB.jpg?1
Next time ( ha ha) use the 4Nm as a reason to buy the scope torque screwdriver. Those suckers go up to 60 in lb I think. [emoji106]Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPrena
That's funnyQuote:
Originally Posted by Gman
Probably let those get a little dirtier than id like. But all new now
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...eb4651908e.jpg
Anyone have a code reader that will reset a check engine light?. I blew a charge pipe and set it off. All fixed now but it saved the code and apparently autozone policy won't let them turn them off anymore. Dealer wants wwaayyyy too much to reset it.
Just disconnect the battery for a bit
That only works for pre-OBDII stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by 00tec
Found one on Amazon for about $35. Guess it would be a good thing to have so I'll just order it
Works perfectly fine on my vehicles. All have OBD2Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
All of my stuff the code just comes right back.
I have one if you can wait a day, it's at home and I'm at work. I also have a bluetooth gizmo that will allow you to do the same thing with your phone, I think it was 7 bucks on Ebay...
If the fault is current it will still show up. Pulling a battery cable even on OBDII should clear the light assuming it isn?t a currently active fault.Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
Thanks. I found one im using today but I'll probably still order one for future use. Yea I fixed the issue so should clear permanently