they have bull nose for your application. 45 degree corners are a bitch.
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they have bull nose for your application. 45 degree corners are a bitch.
I'll look those up, thanks guys.
What if I just used some 1/2" wood instead of drywall? I don't need it for structural support or anything, but I bet I could just cut 45 angle into one of the pieces to butt them together flush. Then I wouldn't have to worry about the edge getting chipped if someone bumps up against it. I could get away with only using 1/4" if using wood, but I think it'd be easier to put the angle into 1/2". Not to mention it will give me just that much more to drill into should I decide to hang something on the wall. Thoughts on that?
I did find this: http://hamiltonnw.com/AP_TrimTexBullnoseCornerBeads.asp
So I mentioned earlier that I hung the door and it was a pain. Well, I didn't really know the proper way to hang a door, I just put it in there. It wasn't working the way I wanted, so I looked up some videos and found this one (sorry in advance), among others:
Anyway, I rehung the door tonight. I don't know if I had a crappy pre-hung door, wouldn't stay square no matter what, but it took me HOURS to get this thing hung. It's still not as good as it should be, but it is slightly better than before. I'll update as I complete everything.
Chalk board paint will go on this wall against the door.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Z...201_223354.jpg
Here is the bull nose. They really only had 90 degree, so I just smashed it down to screw it down.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-P...201_223408.jpg
Very top shelf. Probably just put a decorative curtain across the top.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-w...201_223531.jpg
Mostly painted on the inside.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W...201_223450.jpg
Upclose of the bullnose.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-m...201_223511.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-W...201_223518.jpg
I put a water proof sealant across the edges of all the shelves. That way if there are any spill, it will keep everything on the shelf, instead of running down the walls.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-B...201_224252.jpg
I messed around with the LED rope lights I have on hand while I wait for the 16' rope light I just ordered to arrive. I think it is going to turn out great and the lighting will be just enough. The lights will go from floor to the top, across the top, then back down to the floor on the other side.
I'm thinking of pulling a switch out of a refrigerator to work the same way so the lights come on when the door is opened. I could use a plunger style switch if I need to. Any suggestions for types of switches?
motion activation
http://www.walmart.com/ip/20439936?w...286630&veh=sem
RE: DOORS
I never shim an exterior door base, it leads to threshold warping and cracking. get the floor level with patch if you need to. I shim from the hinge side first. You'd have to be inside to run the screws. Really helps having 2 people so you can put equal shims from both sides that way the door isn't pulled at an angle. Once you've got the hinge side level and true you go on to the strike side. Level it, true it and check the gap at the top and strike side before placing your first screw. 3 screws each side and no need for top or bottom shims.
Though it's tempting, don't screw thru your shims, hit just below. Leaving the little black plastic holder in a new prehung door on the strike helps especially if you're solo
I ended up making my opening wider, as per the video I posted. I think it was too wide and was getting frustrated. Since I knew both my 2x4s were level and plumb, I just screwed the hinge side straight to the 2x4 and shimmed the strike side. That made my already too wide gap even wider since I put all the space on one side, but then I had even more shims left to deal with it. I have a pretty wide gap on the strike side, almost to the point that the stop didn't touch the door edge. I brought it in though and the stop holds the door and the strike plate properly holds the latch. I actually prefer it this loose as even if the door, or jamb swells, I should still have plenty of play to prevent binding.
Seems like it's taking a long time, but it is certainly the best, and most well thought out project I've ever done. Also, it looks great in the room in person. I almost can't even imagine the room any other way already.
how about a door switch?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KKNJPI
That might work actually, as I happen to have an extra spot in the door to mount that. One of the other suggested links is a magnetic switch. I may consider that option as well.
Typical location is in the jamb, hinge side, just behind stop. Access to get wire there, after the fact, will be your biggest issue.
The wiring is exactly what I was thinking about. Especially now that I've walled in the exterior...
New light. Now I can finally see. Before was a single bulb fixture that was not adequate for the room.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x...28HDR%2529.jpg
Made sure to counter sink the holes on this part. I used three different drill bits.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-p...214_183348.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-p...214_184000.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-u...214_203801.jpg
The lip on the bull nose has been a pain to feather out. This is the third, and hopefully last, time I've let dry and sanded before putting on another coat. I changed directions, so it doesn't have to be quite as smooth now.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0...28HDR%2529.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-n...28HDR%2529.jpg
Got this rack at Home Depot for $32ish. Had to cut the bottom three "shelves" off as the spacing didn't match the spacing of my shelves. I could have made it work, but two of the shelves would have been just below a shelf with the door closed, restricting the height of what you could place there. The space between the door and shelf is 4" deep; the shelves are 5" deep. I made it work and honestly this probably looks better than a wooden one I was planning on making. For $10 more I could have gotten a rack that extended across 90% of the door but I was feeling cheap and thinking, "I don't want too much storage." [facepalm]
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-5...214_222404.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3...214_222740.jpg
I've got everything for the lighting except the switch and the lights so far. This is most dim, brightest, and a sample of the lighting on the most bright setting on just the left side. I won't really have any shadows once I get lights on both sides.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-i...214_231743.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-t...214_231753.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0...214_231837.jpg
Lights finally showed up today and the magnet switch should be here by Friday. The Radio Shack lights are on the left in both of the following pictures. Radio Shack lights definitely more bright and more yellow. Radio Shack lights are much larger. The case on the RS lights is clunky and loose (you can shake it and hear the light strip rattle around). The protection around the Amazon lights is like molded together. I bet if you cut the Amazon lights, each section would still remain water proof.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-f...217_205506.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-C...217_210047.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Q...217_210216.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_...217_230600.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-q...217_233132.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-u...217_233257.jpg
I'm having a heck of a time trying to get the chalkboard paint to go on smooth, even though I'm using a foam roller. I have a feeling some wet sanding is going to be in my future. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. I tried doing some Youtube searches and found tips, but they vary too much to be helpful for me.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-m...216_205735.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-c...216_202035.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-U...216_205556.jpg
I was really hoping the glass would have come out better, already being very smooth and all. If I can't make it look great, I'm going to scrape it off. This last picture is only a first coat to test how it goes on.
have you tried laying the door on its back and putting a very heavy coat on? bassically allowing it to puddle and cure.
I have't. I'm going to look into thinning it out to put it on in as light of coats as possible.
So I got my magnetic door switch in. http://www.amazon.com/Directed-Elect...ic+door+switch
I hook it up as Normal Closed. As soon as I hook it up, the light comes on like it is supposed to. I close the door and the light goes off like it is supposed to. When I open the door again, it does not come back on. I can hear a soft clicking coming from the power supply. Nothing that I do with the switch will turn the light back on. I have to unplug the power supply for a good 10 minutes before it will work again, and then it is the same thing all over again. When reading the reviews, some people talked about it being sensitive to voltage or something. MORE people commented that they were using it for the same application that I am, and it is working great. Any ideas what is going on?
ETA: Nevermind, I read the reviews again and all the bad reviews are exactly what I'm experiencing. Sounds like it is just cheap. I'm going to call Hobby Lobby and see if they have anything. Anyone have an ideas for local places in the mean time?
Are you using a relay on that switch? I used one of those switches on my toolbox with the same type of lights. That switch will only run a couple feet of those lights before its beyond capacity. Mine did weird on/off stuff before it melted. Using a relay fixed it.
Feel the switch and see if its hot.
Switch wasn't hot, at one point I thought I smelled something burning, but neither the switch, or the power supply was hot to the touch at all. What kind of relay? What size? Would I get the relay at an auto parts store or Ace?
I used a 10a surface mount relay in my project because i had other stuff going on. Figure 1/2a per meter if those strips have 150leds per meter. Automotive relays work fine, or you could get a relay and box from radio shack to do it. I got my switch from ace on 120th and Colorado, wired it into a project box with my relay and a toggle switch so i could manually turn them off.
After watching an instructional video, I realized I had the switch wired incorrectly. Now that I have it wired correctly, it is still not working. Now it just stays off, or stays on, depending on how it is wired. Still sounds like a relay may be the answer. Is the purpose of the relay to reduce the draw going into the switch so it does not get over loaded?
Yeah. Those switches are rated around 1/2a. I figured out mine was arcing and sticking to itself with the higher amperage running through it. With the relay in place, the switch just sees a light draw.
My switch would get warm to the touch after a few minutes of use.
Its possible that by using the switch under high loads, the spring steel inside heated and lost its "springiness", therefore not switching anymore
Worth taking apart, or should I just get another one? Also, can I still use the dimmer switch I bought?
What is the dimmer rated for?
I would get another switch, those things arent generally serviceable
No idea on the dimmer. I don't even need it really. It's this one. http://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers...ef=pd_sim_e_19
I'll just use it else where. Probably on the fish tank.
Dimmer should be fine. Unless you have like 35ft of that stuff in there.
I ran 14ft of the 300led/m stuff in my truck box and it pulled about 4a. That dimmer is good for 8.
It's a 16ft cable. I think I'm going to run to Radio Shack and see if they have a momentary switch that will work. They acted like they didn't, but I used to work there and Radio Shack is dead to me if they don't have something that will work.
Radio shack probably wont have anything that functions the way you want and looks decent honestly. Their switch selection sucks.
If you still want to go the magnetic route, I may have another surface mount relay, just grab a small project box and small project board and we can wire it up.
I picked up a roller switch from Radio Shack, and when I picked my daughter up, happened across a broken refrigerator. I just popped the switch of the fridge and will be using that. I can take the Radio Shack switch back. You're right about their switch selection.
Is there a part number on the switch? Wanna make sure you can put that kind of current through it.
Yes, but it is glued to the wall now. ETA: 5A-125V 2.5A-250V.
I'll get pictures of it all when I'm done wiring. Now, do I break the power wire or the ground? Someone said ground for electronics, and hot for electrical. Which one is this?
Either one. Doesnt matter in this situation.
ETA: That switch should handle it.
Okay, I watered down the chalk board paint (1oz of water to 1/2 quart) and used the foam roller as a brush. Goes on MUCH smoother. It's starting to look good now. Chalk boards should be done by tonight/tomorrow and the only thing left to do will be to put on the final paint on the pantry, that matches the rest of the room, and the trim around the door. So it probably won't get finished much more for a while since there are a lot of other things I need to do before painting the entire room. Thanks everyone for the help. I'll probably make a Youtube video of the finished product.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_...220_184201.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-f...220_184215.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-V...28HDR%2529.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-m...28HDR%2529.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-4...220_232742.jpg
Chalk board paint looks a lot better.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-g...220_211841.jpg