Right when you finish, he's going to announce he's into Digipets now and all the stuff fits in your pocket!
Printable View
Right when you finish, he's going to announce he's into Digipets now and all the stuff fits in your pocket!
Simple, elegant, clever.
Nice work! That?s going to be a fantastic cabinet! It reminds me of one by Dad built for his collection of router bits. Unfortunately, evil stepmom decided she wanted to keep it and never use it.
Looks better than anything I’ve ever made with wood! Except maybe my children...
I plan to get this running. I'm going to start by draining the fuel tank. The 2-stroke tank is dry. Then I'm going to remove the carb and make sure the jets are clear.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rV...=w1112-h625-no
Well, I put 2-stroke oil and fresh gas in it and it started on the second kick. It works. On paper it says that this old yellow bike has twice the horse power of my newer blue bike. It's definitely faster and has more usable gearing for the street.
https://youtu.be/imab5NGyIBA
those clutch plates free up after running a few?Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
needed a thin 1 1/8" wrench for the dillon 1500 trimmer. Standard wrench is too thick, so i made my own. 1 hr later
Rough cut and it was a tad too wide so i built it up with some welding. then hand filed to fit
https://i.imgur.com/9lAG4Mym.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/NMpbhQCm.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/O3xk2HVm.jpg
added a handle and eyelet to hang on back board
https://i.imgur.com/GNYicoOm.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dFTDjVFm.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/e6RneDem.jpg
Yep! Finished product on that wrench looks good by the way.Quote:
Originally Posted by Great-Kazoo
thanks, i'm happy with the finished product. Buying 1 to fit would have cost more in s&h than the scrap materials i have, plus welding consumables.Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
Eventually i'll start practicing with the tig welder.
Contemplated the look of the face of the cabinet the other day. Solid plain looks pretty traditional, and would be quick to execute, but I think I might like something with a little more character. As I don't feel like screwing up any of my existing pieces yet and having to buy another plank of cherry (though I am sure that moment is coming), I figured I'd try out the look and solve some construction mysteries with a small-scale prototype in pine.
First, cut down a 1x8 pine firring strip into a couple of test pieces:
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...ameproto01.JPG
Then ran the blanks through the router with a 1/8 radius beading bit until I found a profile I liked:
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...ameproto02.JPG
Then sit there and stared at them for about 20 minutes contemplating how I was going to join them:
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...ameproto03.JPG
The case ends were easy enough. Simple 45? miter joint. I use what is known as a 'donkey's ear', which is a jig that holds the stock at 45?. I could have cranked my tablesaw over to 45?, but then I would have to crank it back if I wanted to go back to cutting straight 90s. The donkey's ear lets me make more consistent cuts without that hassle.
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...ameproto04.JPG
The center rails were more of a quandry. Didn't want to miter the width of all the pieces, because that would make for a really weak joint on the cross pieces, and they will need to support a lot of weight. So right or wrong, I decided I would just miter to the depth of the bead. Couldn't think of a better way to do that than with a chisel and the world's easiest jig; a scrap of board butt-jointed to another scrap of the same board with super-glue, with a 90 degree notch carved into it.
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...ameproto05.JPG
Couple taps with the chisel and then pare out the waste.
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...ameproto06.JPG
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...ameproto07.JPG
I got better at it as I went along. The notches are actually the easy part. I can align them across multiple rails, and I can cut them out at about 8 per hour with a couple of breaks and one resharpening of the chisel. The vertical pieces are the challenge, because you have to get the length just about perfect to fit them. I screwed that up a couple of times in the prototype, and some of the joints are a little sloppy. They could be filled with sawdust and glue, but it isn't easy to sand these tight profiles. So I will have to be very careful when I cut them. The good news is that being on the short pieces, I have enough material to recut at least four or five of them if I really mess up.
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...ameproto08.JPG
Liked the look well enough to mill the cherry rails:
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...dmolding01.JPG
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...dmolding02.JPG
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...dmolding03.JPG
JohnnyEgo, that is so friggin' awesome. I love your posts where you share photos of how you do things. Your work is amazing.
Been making slow progress on the card catalog, and I will post some more pictures, but the part I am doing now is tedious, low-reward, and not very visually interesting. So I put it aside last weekend and helped my kid make a box for his teacher.
Time was fairly limited, but we decided to keep it very simple, with no miter keys or dovetails this year. Just a straight mitered box.
I picked up some Orange Agate from Woodcraft after their 20% off Covid sale. I've never worked with it before, or quite frankly even heard of it before. On the outside, it looked like a fairly tight, dense grain with a creamy color, not unlike holly, and then a very red heartwood core. I'm a sucker for contrast. I didn't have any plans for it other than a vague notion of making some sort of stool, bench, or side table out of it. But making a box for my son's teacher seemed like as good an idea as any.
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...box/tbox01.JPG
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...box/tbox07.JPG
Quick trip to the jointer-planer to clean it up. Noticed right away that it had lost that cream-colored surface, and started showing some signs of spalting and interlocking grain.
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...box/tbox08.JPG
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...box/tbox09.JPG
Had my son rip it to width:
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...box/tbox10.JPG
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...box/tbox11.JPG
Things got a lot weirder when I resawed the blanks for a four-corner book match. A lot more spalting in the white sapwood. Meanwhile, the red heartwood was on such a tight radius that even just taking out the width of the resaw blade, the grain didn't line up in a bookmatch. The heartwood would be present on 3/4 of the width of the front face of the board, and almost non-existent on the back face, within half of an inch. I don't know if that is a common thing with exotics, but I'd never seen it before.
The grain just didn't line up right for a bookmatch, so I decided to just align it to the upper boundary of the heartwood. A little off the bottom of one piece, off the top of the other, until I had a reasonably decent match at each corner. Then I ran a top and bottom groove for the lid and bottom on the router, and turned them over to my son to cross-cut:
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...box/tbox15.JPG
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...box/tbox17.JPG
Much to my pleasant surprise, the end grain planed like butter. Beautiful shavings, minimal effort. Because it was so smooth and I had cheap labor available, I didn't even bother pre-mitering the ends at the table saw, just put my son on the miter plane and donkey's ear (the stand that holds the work piece at 45 degrees).
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...box/tbox20.JPG
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...box/tbox21.JPG
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...box/tbox22.JPG
Next came glue, tape, and a lot of shellac. I learned from someone on here that alcohol removes pencil marks, and I am now grateful for that knowledge. I hate shellac. I used it here because it dries fast and doesn't stink, but there is an art to applying it, and I have not acquired that art yet. I did better this time, though. Thinned it out of the can by about 50%, then used a rag instead of a brush. Far fewer streaks than I had on last year's box, though I still ended up with some build-up and runs at the board ends. Not as bad as previous efforts, but it reminded me of why shellac always frustrates me.
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...box/tbox24.JPG
Given that I couldn't truly bookmatch it, the corners still flow quite well. The sapwood is busy enough that it obscures the fact that it doesn't truly align.
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...box/tbox28.JPG
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...box/tbox29.JPG
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...box/tbox31.JPG
Anyways, the whole thing going surprisingly fast this time. We spent three hours from the raw plank to the first coat of shellac, and a fair chunk of that was machine set-up. The longest part of the whole thing was planing the miters, and that took about an hour, of which there were several breaks. We put on eight coats of thinned Shellac over the course of the next day on about 30 minute intervals. Came together very quick, and my wife and son both commented on wishing they could keep it.
The most important customer is pretty happy, though, and that's all that really matters:
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...box/tbox37.JPG
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...box/tbox45.JPG
I have had these plow discs for years, I got them to make Discada cookers. Finally got around to it.
The rancher I got them from had cut the centers out to repair other discs, the hardest part was filling tho holes.
Ended up making two, they still need a lot of grinding and sanding before they can be used.
https://i.imgur.com/OzHPTus.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/s1gkrIb.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/6gfWWBg.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/fGhPzQV.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dxMVc2A.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/tdkhv5V.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/bpTBR6m.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/fY486u3.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/kxIstf8.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/fDf8hSB.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/48P2Do4.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/sGUTBFc.jpg
^^ That'll be a cool cazo when you're finished!
When learning to weld aluminum, first make sure that you don't have a roll of fluxcore steel wire in your spool gun for some reason. There is an aluminum weld in the middle of all that crap.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0
Harbor Freight maul comes completely useless from the store.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0
After about a year of putting off filing this down, I remembered that I have a grinder and flap discs. So while the not the ideal angle, 100 times better than before. This maul flew through the big stumps that we could only make dents in last year. Although, I really think letting them dry for an additional year helped the most.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0
Stimulating the economy.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...bfa28b40a0.jpg
JohnnyEgo -I missed your posts from 5/21. That’s an awesome project, and really cool to see your son learning the craft! Kudos.
Thanks for sharing that photo. I was feeling pretty bad about my lawn but now I?m feeling much better.Quote:
Originally Posted by Frac
LOL
Yes, south facing and no irrigation. It is impossible to grow grass near the house. The patio goes in next summer.
Yeah, July and August were brutal for my grass. I am watering every other day for 45 minutes per station. That means my sprinklers run for over five and a half hours every other day. My last water bill was $300. It still isn?t very green. Think I?d rather have a dead yard and save the money but my wife disagrees.
I water the front yard 3 hours per week and my bill is $120-ish. I can't imagine what I would pay to water 5 hours a day, every other day. The wife hates all of the dirt that gets tracked in, but even when I run a manual sprinkler back there the grass doesn't survive past May. I do plan to expand the irrigation back there next year along with the patio project.Quote:
Originally Posted by ray1970
I'd look into xeriscape options. Watering grass in CO is like making sculptures out of rice during a food shortage.
I?d do fake grass in that area and combine it with some xeriscaping so doggo has a place to go.
I?d do my south facing front lawn but the HOA are pricks. That side always dies off in late winter and it?s a pain to get it back.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes, that is exactly what I was just telling the wife. I?m ready to put down artificial turf over the dirt for now. The back half of the yard grows great. It is a combination of the runoff from my neighbor over watering and being far enough away from the house that the hardiboard doesn?t bake it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Erni
t's been a while since I've updated this thread, but that's because it's been a while since I did anything on the cabinet. I've had the busiest work year I've had in 15 years, and what limited shop time I had got redirected into my wife's sewing shelf that I'd also put off forever. So nothing happening until this weekend. When last we left off, here is what I had:
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...progress01.JPG
The next few weekends are going to be all about finishing the drawers. Broke them all down so I could reshape the drawers. They have to be fairly deep to hold the two types of Pokemon boxes my son has, but little fingers still need to be able to scoop them out.
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...rpattern06.JPG
I normally use double-sided carpet tape to hold pieces together for pattern routing, but I was worried that it would be too strongly adhered to these thin pieces, and I didn't want to risk that. So instead, I stuck two pieces of blue painter's tape to each piece, and then put a few drops of Cyano-Acrylate glue (CA glue, aka Super Glue) on the tape. Mated them up, pressed them together, and got a good hold while still being easy to release when the time comes.
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...rpattern07.JPG
Trace the drawer shape onto the blanks with the routing template.
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...rpattern08.JPG
Since I am scared of my patterning bit, and don't want to create a small mountain of shavings at the router table, I pre-cut most of the waste. Started with a forstner bit in the drill press to clear out the two curves:
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...rpattern09.JPG
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...rpattern10.JPG
Then over to the bandsaw to rough out the larger waste:
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...rpattern01.JPG
Then I attach the pattern to each pair of drawer sides, and route it out. I use a very large pattern bit running at a good bit of speed. It will hog through just about anything, and when things are going well, it's smooth and can cut thick stock without hesitation. But the moment it encounters something it doesn't like, all hell breaks loose. It will grab a piece and throw it with remarkable force, so fast you won't realize what happened. If your thumb is in the wrong place, you have now lubricated the bit and your table pretty thoroughly. Likewise, I have seen it catch and split huge chunks out of both stock and template before. It has my respect. Mostly, it hates hard corners, so I usually ease those transitions on the bandsaw or sander. Then one light pass to make sure the transitions are smooth, and then I can hog out the rest. But this is the scariest bit in the scariest tool I have in my shop.
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...rpattern02.JPG
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...rpattern03.JPG
Once it is routed to the pattern, I take it over to the spindle sander to smooth out any rough parts and remove most of the burn marks.
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...rpattern04.JPG
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...rpattern05.JPG
Next is a trip back to the router table with a round-over bit installed, to ease the top edge of the drawer.
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...rpattern11.JPG
This is about the point where I realized I had flipped the pattern on one of the twelve pairs of drawer blanks, so I will have the joy of spending several hours cutting replacement parts in a future weekend.
Now that all the shaping is done, I clean up the inside faces of any markings, and file and sand any agregious burn marks remaining, until I lose interest.
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020P...rpattern12.JPG
So when last we left off, I had finished most major construction on the drawer pieces. It's kind of a pain to apply stain or finish evenly in the interior of boxes once they are assembled, so I usually prefer to pre-finish all the insides before clamp and glue.
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020Pr...dedrawer01.JPG
I'm using Watco Danish Oil here. I like it for a couple of reasons. It's a clean, natural finish with just a bit of amber. It's oil based, and you just wipe it on with a rag, let the wood absorb whatever it's going to take, and wipe it off. Do that twice, and that's it.
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020Pr...dedrawer02.JPG
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020Pr...dedrawer03.JPG
Another nice thing about Danish Oil is that it is very easy to refinish. I found a box where I forgot to remove some pencil marks before I applied finish. I just waited until it dried, sanded down the finish and the marks, and hit it with a little more Watco. Watco is super-easy to blend with, because it doesn't care. The wood is going to take whatever it takes, and that's it.
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020Pr...dedrawer05.JPG
This stuff dries to the touch in a couple of hours, but it still takes a couple of days to fully cure.
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020Pr...dedrawer06.JPG
Finally ended up with a small pile of half pre-finished parts.
Next comes glueing and clamping.
With the large box, I used some extra care for the glue-up. Taped all the inside corners before I hit it with TiteBond III glue. After realizing what it would take in terms of patience for the next 13 boxes, this is the only one I taped.
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020Pr.../clampup01.JPG
Some folks might wonder how many clamps a guy needs. The answer is always at least one more than you actually have. It took a lot of clamps per box to pull everything in and make it reasonably square.
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020Pr.../clampup02.JPG
The smaller boxes took about the same number of clamps. I had enough to do about two boxes at a time, so I did a pair a night over the course of the week.
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020Pr.../clampup03.JPG
The cluster box I cut upside down with the template. Also known as box L. I will get the priveledge of recutting this eventually.
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020Pr.../clampup04.JPG
All glued up!
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020Pr.../clampup05.JPG
Ain?t that the truth!Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyEgo
Nice work as always.
Much appreciated!
Next comes the part of any project I hate most. Finish sanding. Anyways, all the boxes need some work, and some of the joints look pretty gnarly:
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020Pr...nishsand04.JPG
The answer comes via a cup of sawdust and a bottle of superglue.
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020Pr...nishsand01.JPG
I pack the larger gaps, and surface sand until the smaller ones are full of dust, then hit it with a few drops of CA glue to lock the filler in place.
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020Pr...nishsand02.JPG
Once the glue dries, I use sanding blocks with 100, 150, and 220 grit and hand-sand everything flush. I have 80 grit in my rotary sander which I use to take down the most proud of the dovetail fingers, but I use it very sparingly, because it has a tendency to round over sharp corners. The 100 grit on the sanding block actually takes down the end-grain cherry pretty quickly. It probably only took me 10-15 minutes of sanding per box.
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020Pr...nishsand03.JPG
Hit the outside of the box with some Watco Danish. Box joints cleaned up quite nicely, all things considered.
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020Pr...nishsand06.JPG
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020Pr...nishsand07.JPG
Same process for the smaller boxes. Nibbled away at them over a couple of nights.
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020Pr...definish03.JPG
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020Pr...definish04.JPG
Nice job, as always.Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyEgo
Now, tell us about the L box ;)
Thank you for the filling technique. I have been using wood filler and am not really happy with the end result.
My summer project was building an adjustable height stand-up desk.
With everything becoming virtual meetings, I bought a web camera, then needed an updated computer from the 10-year old desktop HP I was running.
So, I did a lot of Google searching and reading.
I ended up with a PowerSpec by Micro Center Gaming Computer (for the Nvidia Graphics Card) they pre-built and offered on sale.
Watching the astronauts and their ground control, I saw that it was 3 monitors that were the norm.
I am waiting for cataract surgery (along with 1500 other Kaiser members) so I needed bigger monitors - 27" seemed about right.
But, when I started putting all of my new toys together, I realized my desk was not big enough.
So, internet searches showed no one made a 3' x 6' desk that was adjustable height.
More searches and I bought a butcher block top from New York - sent by freight at over 125 lbs. I had to get help to move it down into my basement shop.
Then, I had the problem of tearing apart a 8' x 4' pallet made from the junkiest scrap wood I have seen. Cut it up small enough to fit into the trash tub required by my HOA.
The butcher block itself was finished to about 80 grit on one side and unfinished, really rough with gaps, on the bottom.
Lots of sanding to 220 grit, filling with wood filler, and then 2 weeks of finishing, sanding to 400 grit, finishing, buffing on both sides to prevent cupping.
The frame and lifting mechanism came from Portland in multiple UPS packages. Lots more weight in the steel frame, but no pallets required.
Then locating and fastening accessory hangers on the bottom of the desktop.
Finally, yesterday, I got help to turn the table over and set it up with my new computer system.
There is a control panel for the motorized lifting (2 motors for all that weight) that allows 4 preset heights, so I can adjust to stand up, or sit down, as the day progresses.
The computer and the UPS power supply are mounted to the bottom of the desktop so I don't need to worry about the wires as I adjust the height.
And yes, my basement stays around 65 degrees year round, so that really is a space heater under the table.
https://i.imgur.com/8IBh54U.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/lvaOMIJ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/eFT5Ggl.jpg
That's awesome. My wife has space heaters at every desk she's ever worked at.
That is a sharp looking desk, man! Nice work.
11 out of 12 isn't bad. I'm vaguely amazed I didn't make that mistake more than once. But I made others...Quote:
Originally Posted by Great-Kazoo
I tried to make an object lesson out of it for my son, by telling him that we overcome our mistakes and do the best we can, and are proud of our work not in spite of them, but because of them; the imperfections show the soul of the thing in a way perfect mass production does not.
He immediately asked me to point out all the mistakes so he could decide if they were acceptable or not.
I ordered some drawer pulls from China off of Amazon back in March. I'm not sure if they came preloaded with Coronavirus or not, but I am still alive. I was pleasantly surprised that they are well made and the finish layer is pretty thick, especially since they were inexpensive.
At the same time I bought the drawer pulls, I bought a cheap Chinese positioning jig that is a $20 knock-off of a $200 alignment system. And you can tell. Hard to get it to hold a measure, and I've already stripped out one of the locking pins.
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020Pr...aremount07.JPG
But I managed to get it locked up tight enough for using a pin punch to mark the screw holes consistently across all the boxes.
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020Pr...aremount01.JPG
For these fiddly little bits that need to be drilled with some precision, I love my 1930s egg beater Yankee drill I bought for $20 off a guy who finds them at yard sales and rehabs them. Love this thing.
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020Pr...aremount02.JPG
I also rubbed the screw threads in wax to ease them in with a Phillips screwdriver.
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020Pr...aremount04.JPG
Not bad at all.
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020Pr...aremount08.JPG
The pile of unfinished work.
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020Pr...aremount05.JPG
Thank you. I just ordered one of the drawer pulls jigs. That will save me a lot more than $20 in time.
I built one of the two barn doors today. I have to go get more rough 2x6s to build the other door.Attachment 83358
Very nice looking door! My son keeps asking me when I am going to build a picnic table, and my answer is when PT lumber pricing returns to sanity.
Getting there:
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020Pr...hedboxes01.JPG
Time to rebuild my two f-up boxes. Box L needs two replacement sides, because I routed the template upside down. Box A has a giant gouge on the face where the dado stack hit a small knot and tore out a chunk while cutting the box joint fingers.
I spent about six hours over two days to recreate these three parts, the vast majority of that time in machine setup and take-down. I probably could have built 12 more of these boxes in very little additional time.
Saturday: Wood Prep
Unfortunately, while I have a pile of cherry scraps in assorted sizes and thickness, I didn't have anything with sufficient length, width, and thickness to cut the sides. So that meant cutting into another cherry plank.
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020Pr...aceboxes01.JPG
Then on to the jointer to be made straight and square along one face and edge.
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020Pr...aceboxes02.JPG
Tablesaw squares up the opposite side.
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020Pr...aceboxes05.JPG
Through the planer to clean up the remaining face.
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020Pr...aceboxes06.JPG
Split it into three 1/2 inch planks on the bandsaw.
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020Pr...aceboxes09.JPG
Let it sit stickered overnight to allow for release of any tension and equalize moisture content.
Sunday: Wood Work
Marked out a couple of spaces that were at least reasonably close in terms of grain match to the A face piece. I am glad I marked out more than one, for reasons to follow.
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020Pr...aceboxes08.JPG
I had very little warp from these, which was a really pleasant surprise. They started out at 1/2 an inch, and the jointer really only took a few hundredths off the highs and lows. Planer then made both sides flat and parallel to one another, down to 3/8 (.3750)
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020Pr...aceboxes12.JPG
Trimmed up the excess and got all the pieces very close to the dimensions of the parts they were replacing.
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020Pr...aceboxes13.JPG
The first set of box joints I cut was a disaster. The jig I originally used had sat in my shop since March, and while it hadn't been dropped or adjusted, wood movement had shifted position of the key. As a result, the spacing was off after the first two fingers were cut, and got progressively worse further down until the gaps were just too big to fill. Fortunately, I had marked a couple of potential grain matches, so I had some spares. In the intervening months, I had also built my new table saw sled junior, specifically for use with my dado blade. It let me clamp and easily adjust a sub-fence that I was able to dial right in with the part I was replacing.
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020Pr...aceboxes15.JPG
The result was joints that actually fit better than most of the ones I made previously. I was very proud of myself, until I considered the fact that when you've done this same set of operations 15 previous times, you ought to get better just through repetition.
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2020Pr...aceboxes17.JPG