It started life as a 4th gen Camaro. Like this. I saw it the day he bought it. He swung by and had two wheels strapped to the top of the trunk lid.
https://www.speednik.com/wp-content/...1_21-19-41.jpg
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It started life as a 4th gen Camaro. Like this. I saw it the day he bought it. He swung by and had two wheels strapped to the top of the trunk lid.
https://www.speednik.com/wp-content/...1_21-19-41.jpg
Wow!
Never imagined it was from Camero. My initial guess was from Civic Si or Golf.
Yeah this is a bad mamma jamma. He was going to use a C4 Vette at some point I think.
Needs some knobby tires for running the dunes.
He put some on at some point. Something ridiculous too, like 13-14" wide. Heck the street tires on there now are that wide I think.
Really enjoy watching your build progress, reminds me of when I used to do a lot of wrenching. Now that I have a garage again, hopefully I can undertake some projects I've been meaning to complete on my Xterra.Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
My first day to the pull and pay was a bit of a bust, so I ended up helping the guy across from me get parts off the front end of an Xterra.
I definitely should have bought an Xterra instead of my Amigo all those years ago.
I can only speak for the second generation, but they are definitely very basic as far as design is concerned, and quite robust seeing as how they share a frame with their full size brethren. Ideally, once I get mine paid off, I'd like to do a Titan front suspension swap, and possibly even a Titan V8, it's all pretty much plug and play.Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
Do the Titans have longer control arms, or bigger brakes, or both? Xterras still use leafs in the rear right?
Both I believe, longer control arms for sure, which allows for excellent travel with the proper suspension components, fortunately it's such a popular swap that there is a ton of options. If you wanted a newer/reliable and cost effective rig, I highly recommend the Xterra. Obviously not nearly as popular as the 4runner, but the price will reflect that, and there are still enough upgrade options available to make it a decent investment, and with the Frontier still being produced and unchanged through 2020 so far, you can still find plenty of parts.Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
I'm invested with the Trooper now. I like that Xterras have factory e-lockers. What kind of rear end do they have?
Got that heavy bitch back up in there.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Vv...d=w961-h625-no
A lot more room on those bolts with the lower diff. Not that I'll ever need access to them.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/60...p=w696-h625-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ws...P=w761-h625-no
About scratched all that paint right off getting it in there.
Now to reassemble the knuckles and get the new ball joints, axles, shocks, and tie-rods all connected.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nI...a=w907-h625-no
Nice. How do you accomplish the front lift?
I'm curious why you wouldn't clean those cups out before assembly?Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
There aren't torsion keys for me. I have to crank the bars to tighten them up. Should be roughly 4 turns per inch. There is a big bolt on the back of where the bars mount and you turn that to lift the front.Quote:
Originally Posted by Erni
Because I was tired of cleaning and getting covered in grease and diff oil for the past few days. I'll wipe them out before I put the new axles in. Just going to get filled with more grease anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by brutal
Does that need to be performed by a licensed professional overhead garage door spring installer?Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
Well farts.
New truck got a little whacked while parked at the dealer after a service. Still don't know who did it. Lot monkey claims it wasn't him. Mechanic claims it wasn't him. Sure as F wasn't me.
381 miles on the clock.
Fortunately just the flare.
https://i.imgur.com/xy8Rax5l.jpg
Throw a fit. The dealer should fix it for you.
Had five guys out there looking at it fawning over their apologies. Part is ordered.Quote:
Originally Posted by ray1970
Now I just have to decide what I'm going to ask for extra.
I'm thinking first oil and fuel filter service.
Fuel filters (there are 2) and oil change service (12 qts T6), which I would normally do myself, is $180 in parts plus their labor. I think they charge $425 total.
Too much?
Go for it.
I bet they?ll do it to keep their customer happy.
Just make sure the whistle-dicks put the oil cap back on before you leave the lot. Just saying.
Might want them to address the panel gaps while they're at it.
Ask for 3, accept 1.Quote:
Originally Posted by brutal
The worse that can happen is they say "no".Quote:
Originally Posted by brutal
I normally do all my own fluid service because I trust no one.Quote:
Originally Posted by ChickNorris
It was there for, among other things, a cab/bed alignment that was a full 1" off side-side!
I posted the pic somewhere in this thread a while back.
The only thing that's a bit off now is the driver side headlight/trim and the center grill section both need to shift to the pass side an RCH. Not sure if there's any adjustment there at all.
I am not good with bodywork, but minor bumper work is needed.
All I need is top coat from autozone/adv auto.
What I have so far.
'Bondo in an epoxy type syringe.
Special ordered touchup spray (base).
Dealership ordered touchup pen
Sand paper.
A bucket to cover my entire head for screaming, just in case I mess this up really bad.
Tape and paper for masking.Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPrena
Beer.
Phone for youtube searches.
Beer.
Forgot to mention that I do have a masking tape and tablet ready for youtube.
I just need to get the Beer, beer holder, or someone who will hold my beer. :)
I'm struggling to get my knuckle assembled again. Everything is taken apart, but I can't seem to find the magic combination for the order everything is reassembled.
Cv axle too long?Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
Forgot about cleaner. Wash and clean the surface and make sure residual wax and grime is removed. Dawn removes grease and wax well, but so should other dish soaps. Wipe with paint compatible chems like alcohol or whatever is recomended.Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPrena
Prep is the key here.
$425 for basic maintenance? Sounds like the diesels are too expensive to own these days.Quote:
Originally Posted by brutal
10K miles/annual.Quote:
Originally Posted by whitewalrus
That's why I do it myself for around $180.
Diesels are expensive to maintain, no doubt. Not saying you can't with a gasser, but I wouldn't pull with anything else.
...and a 6-foot straw.Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPrena
I didn't top coat yet, but it came out ugly. I can still see the very small stress lines. I might need sand it down, and bondo more.
Nah, the speed sensor for the ABS needed to be disconnected to get enough articulation. Now I'm having trouble getting the tie-rods to seat. I took them out and measured them and they are actually smaller in diameter than the factory ones. I might put them in the freezer for a few hours and try torching the knuckle when I got to put them in.Quote:
Originally Posted by Erni
Put a bondo and made the surface smooth. Problem is that I can still see a bondo mark after 5th base coat. I would need to continue this project well over tomorrow.
So after a few minor difficulties here and there, everything is back together. Thanks for the help on the tie-rod KS63.
I used a square clamped to each rotor to set a basic alignment that is good enough to get me to an alignment shop. I didn't put the lock nuts on the tie rod and after driving the truck for about 50 miles and watching the steering wheel move a bit more each time I drove it, it finally occurred to me what I had done, and then I got to do the whole thing a second time. Otherwise, it worked pretty well.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tY...B=w770-h625-no
Here it is with the Amigo that I sold a few minutes after taking this picture.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bz...f=w788-h500-no
The rear springs and shocks were easy compared to the front. Only took about an hour and a half, and most of that was dealing with a rusted on shock bolt that we just ended up cutting off. At full droop, the springs pretty much just popped out, so I'm concerned with having a way to keep them from falling out at full flex on one side or the other. What have other people done?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EI...I=w699-h500-no
Left is factory Trooper rear spring, center is the OME 2919 (installed) and the right is the BDS 034211--17.25"--240 lbs/in--lift 3.5". I originally bought the BDS but thought it'd be too high and too stiff. I haven't returned the BDS springs because Amazon won't pay the return and the cheapest quote I've gotten for shipping is 50% of what I paid for the springs.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-E...u=w689-h625-no
Before
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2P...j=w704-h500-no
After
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9z...v=w757-h500-no
CV angle on the Amigo without a diff drop
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/L-...L=w763-h625-no
CV angle on the Trooper with diff drop. I think the Trooper is lifted a bit less, but still very happy about those CV angles.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9x...8=w754-h625-no
I've got a 1" body lift on the way from Classic City Overland, but not sure if I'll install it yet. I want to be as low as possible, but I don't want to clip the seam weld on the bottom of the rockers to fit sliders.
Very nice. Ironically with this angle you will probably bever break a half shaft.
Looks like I will be going the other way and increasing my cv shaft angle, just need to choose keys and put together the order.
Wuestion on the cv boots. Are they rubber or plastic? How hard was it to crimp the bands on?
Boots are rubber. They are a pain in the ass to clamp on because you are full of axle grease while you do it. I remember getting advice on this years ago, on here, when I did the Amigo. I used a little Harbor Freight cutter that I filed down the sharp so they were crimpers more than cutters. Also, bend the tightening tab a little before you put it on just to give the crimpers a bit more purchase. It's frustrating at first, but once you figure it out it isn't bad. Just remember that there is a crimp tab that tightens everything up, so don't kill yourself trying to get it tight at first.
Yep, I had to make one of those from a HF cutter too. VW has hard plastic boots, so they are even worse. They make a crimper with a bolt for those and next time I am buying one of those. Too much of a pain otherwise.