Car diagnostic

Okay so I have a 2003 Kia Sorento that I happen to love. Well it overheated and find out that the radiator is cracked. Cool easy enough fix, I get the parts, DRIVE it into the garage and swap it all out. I go to crank it up and check for leaks and now it won?t start. It sound like it wants to start, but doesn?t.

It started before I replaced the radiator and now it doesn?t. And I?m stumped, I have a few ideas as to why, but I?m also not the smartest car person either. Was hoping for a second set of eyes.

also it threw no codes on a reader but the battery is kind of dead and was read while jumped, not sure if that matters. I added 2 gals of fuel just to be sure.

no water in oil, or oil in the coolant.

pretty sure I hooked everything up.

it didn?t overheat long, I don?t think.

Throw the battery on a charger may have a module not powering up because the battery is dead

Before I code it again?

So it starts while jumped?

No it doesn’t start. I killed the battery trying to start it. So I have to have it connected to a running Vehicle to even try to start. I’m going to charge the battery, but just don’t know where to begin after that. It ran before the radiator swap, so I’m confused as to what’s going on.

So it doesn't start even when jumped, correct?

What's your multimeter saying on the battery charge?

Let's get the battery to full charge, or a new battery, and see where we are then.

Did you have to unplug any of the crank or cam position sensors in the process?

I'm gonna say that a sensor got disconnected. Cam position, crank position, intake air temp, MAP, or MAF.

Or it set a code that you can't read that prevents start?

Or the overheat took something out.

Air (compression), spark, fuel. If you are missing any of these, it won't run.

I know this sounds dumb but make sure it is in park if it does not start. I have had a few people who I had to help out only to find that they did not have the car fully in park. Sometimes a gentle rocking of the vehicle to get the transmission to move to get into park. Silly but I was the hero a few times for the ladies at work.
Oh, and you changed your picture!!,

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Originally Posted by 00tec

Did you have to unplug any of the crank or cam position sensors in the process?

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So this is where I was leading to, some
Dumb Korean decided it was a good idea to put the wires for those two at a perpendicular angle behind the upper radiator hose. So when I was taking it off I did hit those wires pretty hard I was thinking that the wires being 17 years old broke inside or the heat melted them when it overheated.

Hence my dilemma, I got the cam changed, but the crank is taking off the front 1/4 of the engine to include every accessory drive line item and the crank pulley and maybe the timing belt. Not sure if I can or even want to.

To add to the time crunch, I can return some tires I bought on NOV 3 for a refill refund if I decide to sell or scrap it, and I’d rather have that extra $180 in my pocket.

Just to edit, I did check
most connections near where I was working to include both cam and crank. I have a feeling it is something easy and I’m just over looking.

Could it possibly be the fuel pump?

Or something telling the ECM to not power up the fuel pump.
Have you tried dribbling a small amount of fuel down the intake, then try to crank it over to see if it fires up for a second or two ?

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Originally Posted by SideShow Bob

Or something telling the ECM to not power up the fuel pump.
Have you tried dribbling a small amount of fuel down the intake, then try to crank it over to see if it fires up for a second or two ?

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With the key on there should be power to the fuel pump. On the fuel rail going to the injectors there should be a schrader valve (like a tire valve under a plastic screw on cap). You can depress the center of the valve like a tire valve and if gas squirts out under pressure your pump is working fine.

Can you tell that I grew up when carburetors were the only thing that cars had ?

I’ve tried looking for that valve, from what I can find Kias don’t have that. But this is the same car that requires you to remove the intake to change the spark plugs.

Sorry, the valve has to be installed. Not there from the factory- tech manual for checking fuel pressure on 03 Kia Sorento- same as gen 2
http://www.ksmanual.com/fuel_pressur...stem_-537.html
For the price of the tool and adapter you can buy a fuel pump and filter if you think you have fuel pressure issues.

You should be able to hear the pump fire when you go key on.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TEAMRICO

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Oh, and you changed your picture!!,

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I did!!! It?s one of my guard chickens.

Check to see if you are getting spark to the spark plugs, then fuel & air.

Does it hit 2.5" high at 100 yards, with a 50-yard zero?

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Originally Posted by Duman

Does it hit 2.5" high at 100 yards, with a 50-yard zero?

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No low and left. But it’s okay I just aim high right.

Is your EFI fuse blown? Swap it with a known good fuse (say, radio, if they’re the same amperage). They won’t always appear bad.

I’m just WAGing at this point, but it’s a quick thing to test.

Yeah that’s going to be the last thing I check in the morning, and then I might have to.....


Attachment 84024

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TEAMRICO

I know this sounds dumb but make sure it is in park if it does not start. I have had a few people who I had to help out only to find that they did not have the car fully in park. Sometimes a gentle rocking of the vehicle to get the transmission to move to get into park. Silly but I was the hero a few times for the ladies at work.
Oh, and you changed your picture!!,

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I think that would be a no crank situation.

Sounds like he has crank, no start.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scanker19

No low and left. But it’s okay I just aim high right.

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Just like my...er...never mind.

So I changed the crank sensor.

Fuel pump is pumping at the tank.

I’m at a loss now.

It lived a good life.

No codes. Won't start. Possible dead ECM due to plugging in sensors while ignition on. Do you have a Blue Lemur code reader? ELM327 reader? What OBD2 reader are you using? I find it strange there is not a code.
Other factor could be ECM failure due to low battery voltage.

Spray some carburetor cleaner into the manifold and see if the engine will run for a few seconds. If it does start for few seconds then it is not getting fuel.

Video below shows new crank sensor is bad.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ZTgqLAo9c4

Just because the pump is making noise doesn?t guarantee that you are getting any fuel, or enough fuel to the fuel rail. After all that cranking, you should at least have a definite fuel smell at the tail pipe when you crank it over.
If you do, pull the plugs one at a time to see if they are wet. Give them a basic cleaning before installing. And then check each one for spark just before installing it.

https://youtu.be/8hT2oP--NSU

Here ya go.....