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There was a thread about them here a bit ago but I can?t find it now. I?m thinking of building one, but I?m:
1. Stupid to the process
2. Also stupid to making things
are they any good for just Rimfire? I was looking at quiet bore. I mean are they worth the trouble of the paper work?
I've seen read several different answers to whether or not you should have an approved form 1 before you order. Etc?.
Safest is to figure out design or kit. Eform the form 1, await approval. Get and build it.
Qb says they dont ship until you are completed I thought but thwir .22 kit came in a couple weeks after I ordered so jist waiting for approval myself.
I?ve got 2 quietbore suppressors. Spend the money on the drill jigs, it?s worth it.
They require a submitted or approved form 1 to ship, but they also engrave the tube with the info on the form. Submit your form 1, save the submitted form as a pdf, and upload it when you order.
Don?t drill the baffles until your form 1 is approved. My last form 1, approved this morning, took 14 days.
edit to add - I used tap magic cutting fluid and a peck method with a hand drill to do the titanium baffles on the .22 kit. It went slow and easy.
Hand drill or press. I have a hand drill. I should have a press for my anodized blocks of aluminum.
Little Dutch, how do they sound?
The .22 is great. On par with any of my form 4 suppressors. I'll drill the 9mm today some time.
Quietbore is the trade name for the form 1 side of Creative Arms. Same suppressors, you just drill the baffles yourself. Check out their website to see what the form 4's look like.
I have several Quietbore .22 kits as well as their 9mm.
The drill jig is needful. Their sound is fine.
Are there better form 4 options? Probably. But I don’t want to wait 9 months to suppress a .22...
To order you need at least a SUBMITTED form 1. They will send the kit. Don’t drill until approved.
The Ti .22 baffles aren’t needed unless something heavier than .22LR. Aluminum is fine for basic .22.
So it sounds like they’re worth the time and effort? Did you use a hand drill?
They are fun to build and a bit addictive. I sat on the sidelines and read and watched for quite awhile before jumping in the game. I have several now. I'm trying to formulate a "good" .223 suppressor with either the available kits or individual cups, tubes and such. I watch a guy on Youtube "Silencer Student" who really does a good job of explaining things, different cup types, etc.
I made a form 1 can a few years ago after Kazoo recommended it. It was a kit from SDTactical and I used a hand drill, freeze plugs and a vice. It has held up great over the years and I wouldn't mind doing a second one sooner than later. I think I have $150 into it minus $200 stamp.
As others have stated, apply for your stamp and then order parts.
Hand drill with jig in bench vise.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scanker19
Has anyone tried, or heard whether or not the JK armament kits are any good? They cost more but they’re modular. I can’t seem to find any decent reviews on the rimfire kits.
I know nothing about JK.
I have two of the modular Rebel Silencer brand suppressors. They are quiet enough, but the first round pop is quite noticeable. I now see it as more of a gimmick than an advantage, as I have never decided to make either of them shorter. Cleaning might be a little easier.
I'm not exactly trying to talk you out of anything, my experiences with a different brand may not even be relevant. I, personally, would pass in favor of a more traditional design.
By all means talk me out of/into something. I’m new at the surpressor game and any and all feed back is welcome.
I think it comes down to price and the 1.3" outside diameter of the tube. When you add in the thread adapter, drill jig, and extra cone the price is right up there. A 1.3" OD tube is pretty large compared to the usual 1" .22 rimfire suppressors. It may or may not start to occlude your site picture on pistols but shouldn't be a problem on rifles.
I just realized that my quietest .22LR suppressor, the Osprey Micro, is also modular and I've never had any desire to shorten it. It stays on a 22/45 Lite and works fine as-is on that pistol.
If you think you will actually want to make your suppressor shorter take a look at the $450 SilenerCo switchback and compare it to the JK system before making a decision. Bowers and Hughes make super short rimfire suppressors that I think have pretty reasonable reviews, so maybe there is something to making them shorter.
Here is a test on my 5.56 Form 1 suppressor. Kit is: 7.6" titanium tube from SD Tactical with titanium end cap and direct thread adapter. Internals are 50 degree stainless super duper cones from Pure Performance Armory.
This is the other Form 1 suppressor I did specifically for my 300 Blackout AR pistol. Barrel is an 8" Ballistic Advantage barrel with SD Tactical muzzle brake. Kit is a 6" carbon steel tube, end cap and muzzle brake adapter. Internals are also 50 degree stainless cones from Pure Performance Armory.
Wow, that is quiet. Less decibels than your voice?
The second video does not come through for me, says age restricted (and I am only 8 ;)
Cameras equalize sound, so it will bring the voice up to the level of the can on the play back. It would still sound impressively quiet in person though. Cameras just can't really capture the sound.
Same thing here. The action and wind sound as loud as the reports
https://youtube.com/shorts/bU4fQFJFeSk?feature=share
That's not a form 1 can though, so ignore that part.
Are there differences in performance between form 1 and form X suppressors? I thought that it was just whether you buy a suppressor directly (form 1), or in a "trust?" (form X?)
Form 1 is for home built cans. Form 4 is transferred from a manufacturer, or buying someone else's form 1 can.
oic, thanks.
A few months late to the party. I have a few F1's. Use them on pistols , rifles etc. I've been demo'ing a few at the range for some interested parties.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scanker19
One really shines on my ruger 9mm charger, take down, running 147 gr hand loads. The bolt movement is louder than the round fired. The ones i use on the bolt and lever actions are , again, impressive.
Something to consider for a suppressor, be it for a rifle, or hand gun. F1 or commercial. The ammo selection makes a major difference in sound / decibels. I hand load 150 gr 30 cal, fmj's, using 14gr trailboss for my remy 700, 308. That one got the attention of the entire rifle firing line, wanting to know if it was a 22 i was shooting. That rifle wears a TBAC Ultra 7, very well i will add.
Where full power 308 loads sound is reduced, but still not "quiet"
Regarding one for a 223 / 5.56. I can load 223 subs, but honestly why waste the primers, powder & bullets. When there's 22 & 22 mag to shoot.
You have to decide whether you want to build one, having the satisfaction of knowing it's something you made. Or buying a commercial can. While your F1 may not be as quiet as a commercial unit. The commercial manufacturers have the money and resources to develop as quiet a can as possible. Where you have what ever info you've read, or been given, before doing your F1.
I built an F1 can specifically and only for one gun. 9" 300BLK subs. Cheap ass napa plugs and it's just OK. Wouldn't mind having had the option to get some snazzy 50? tapered cups. I should have bought that damn mini-lathe that was for sale here. LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by Great-Kazoo
Xrt tactical has some neat ti radials for “d” size tubes. $25 each. I love diy but his work is so pretty!!
I see 50? cones, no radials for 1.36 "D" size.Quote:
Originally Posted by saltydecimator
That said, now I'm thinking I'm just as good off with 13 plugs as I would be with half as many cones? Or is more not necessarily better?
13 plugs is a bit overkill. Some i've seen, using fp's use 5-7 tops. The important thing is having a 1.5 - 2" spacer (blast chamber, iirc) at the muzzle end.Quote:
Originally Posted by brutal
My blast chamber spacer is 1.8" Ti. 13 fp is what fit into the (Ti) tube.Quote:
Originally Posted by Great-Kazoo
Space them out, then check concentricity of baffles, to bore.Quote:
Originally Posted by brutal
Blast chamber is key. Freeze plugs are stone-age technology at this stage in the game. I'm using 50 degree cones from Pure Performance Armory (stainless steel) and only have 4 of them in my 300 Blackout suppressor. They work extremely well. Another major factor in sound suppression is making sure you "clip" the cones. I use a 1/8" ball end mill. Also, make sure you align the clips as well when putting the cones into the tube.
Have a link to the place that sells the cones? I have a 2" x 6' tube of titanium I could use. Link to a video about clipping the cones?
I know where that lathe lives.Quote:
Originally Posted by brutal
Problem I have with letting folks use it is All Things Forbidden frowning upon helping folks to smith their own fun. [emoji2955]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote:
Originally Posted by Squeeze
It was still the stone age when I did mine before all the cool kids got on board.
That said, it's precisely why I'm looking at something new and different.