Form 1 Suppressor kits

[Irving]

Form 1 is for home built cans. Form 4 is transferred from a manufacturer, or buying someone else's form 1 can.

[arbol]

oic, thanks.

[Great-Kazoo]

By all means talk me out of/into something. I?m new at the surpressor game and any and all feed back is welcome.

A few months late to the party. I have a few F1's. Use them on pistols , rifles etc. I've been demo'ing a few at the range for some interested parties.
One really shines on my ruger 9mm charger, take down, running 147 gr hand loads. The bolt movement is louder than the round fired. The ones i use on the bolt and lever actions are , again, impressive.

Something to consider for a suppressor, be it for a rifle, or hand gun. F1 or commercial. The ammo selection makes a major difference in sound / decibels. I hand load 150 gr 30 cal, fmj's, using 14gr trailboss for my remy 700, 308. That one got the attention of the entire rifle firing line, wanting to know if it was a 22 i was shooting. That rifle wears a TBAC Ultra 7, very well i will add.

Where full power 308 loads sound is reduced, but still not "quiet"

Regarding one for a 223 / 5.56. I can load 223 subs, but honestly why waste the primers, powder & bullets. When there's 22 & 22 mag to shoot.


You have to decide whether you want to build one, having the satisfaction of knowing it's something you made. Or buying a commercial can. While your F1 may not be as quiet as a commercial unit. The commercial manufacturers have the money and resources to develop as quiet a can as possible. Where you have what ever info you've read, or been given, before doing your F1.

[brutal]

A few months late to the party. I have a few F1's. Use them on pistols , rifles etc. I've been demo'ing a few at the range for some interested parties.
One really shines on my ruger 9mm charger, take down, running 147 gr hand loads. The bolt movement is louder than the round fired. The ones i use on the bolt and lever actions are , again, impressive.

Something to consider for a suppressor, be it for a rifle, or hand gun. F1 or commercial. The ammo selection makes a major difference in sound / decibels. I hand load 150 gr 30 cal, fmj's, using 14gr trailboss for my remy 700, 308. That one got the attention of the entire rifle firing line, wanting to know if it was a 22 i was shooting. That rifle wears a TBAC Ultra 7, very well i will add.

Where full power 308 loads sound is reduced, but still not "quiet"

Regarding one for a 223 / 5.56. I can load 223 subs, but honestly why waste the primers, powder & bullets. When there's 22 & 22 mag to shoot.


You have to decide whether you want to build one, having the satisfaction of knowing it's something you made. Or buying a commercial can. While your F1 may not be as quiet as a commercial unit. The commercial manufacturers have the money and resources to develop as quiet a can as possible. Where you have what ever info you've read, or been given, before doing your F1.

I built an F1 can specifically and only for one gun. 9" 300BLK subs. Cheap ass napa plugs and it's just OK. Wouldn't mind having had the option to get some snazzy 50? tapered cups. I should have bought that damn mini-lathe that was for sale here. LOL

[saltydecimator]

Xrt tactical has some neat ti radials for “d” size tubes. $25 each. I love diy but his work is so pretty!!

[brutal]

Xrt tactical has some neat ti radials for “d” size tubes. $25 each. I love diy but his work is so pretty!!

I see 50? cones, no radials for 1.36 "D" size.

That said, now I'm thinking I'm just as good off with 13 plugs as I would be with half as many cones? Or is more not necessarily better?

[Great-Kazoo]

I see 50? cones, no radials for 1.36 "D" size.

That said, now I'm thinking I'm just as good off with 13 plugs as I would be with half as many cones? Or is more not necessarily better?

13 plugs is a bit overkill. Some i've seen, using fp's use 5-7 tops. The important thing is having a 1.5 - 2" spacer (blast chamber, iirc) at the muzzle end.

[brutal]

13 plugs is a bit overkill. Some i've seen, using fp's use 5-7 tops. The important thing is having a 1.5 - 2" spacer (blast chamber, iirc) at the muzzle end.

My blast chamber spacer is 1.8" Ti. 13 fp is what fit into the (Ti) tube.

[Great-Kazoo]

My blast chamber spacer is 1.8" Ti. 13 fp is what fit into the (Ti) tube.

Space them out, then check concentricity of baffles, to bore.

[Squeeze]

Blast chamber is key. Freeze plugs are stone-age technology at this stage in the game. I'm using 50 degree cones from Pure Performance Armory (stainless steel) and only have 4 of them in my 300 Blackout suppressor. They work extremely well. Another major factor in sound suppression is making sure you "clip" the cones. I use a 1/8" ball end mill. Also, make sure you align the clips as well when putting the cones into the tube.