Just wondering what you all use on the barrel threads when installing a new barrel. I know anti-seize works very well on bolts. I just don't know about using grease. By the way, it is for an M1 Garand
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Just wondering what you all use on the barrel threads when installing a new barrel. I know anti-seize works very well on bolts. I just don't know about using grease. By the way, it is for an M1 Garand
I use the spark plug anti-seize.
I used to have a special molybdenum anti-seize grease, but having seen some very large AR companies start using the spark plug stuff, I'm sold.
If you think about operating conditions, it makes even more sense. Btw, the anti-seize makes a great trigger lube.
Yeah I am leaning more towards the anti seize myself. I really liked using it on almost all auto applications where corrosion and stuck bolts can be an issue. It works really well on exhaust. I would think it stands up to high heat better. And it won't run off or harden.
I use Teflon pipe tape. (I switch Barrels on an action and the tape is a lot less messy.)
There was a an old thread on AR15.com concerning the use of anti-sieze on assembly of the barrel and receiver. If the anti-sieze has any moly it is not compatible with aluminum, as in will corrode the aluminum. Lithium grease was recommended. As far as anyting else, I use wheel bearing grease moderately. It is high temp and provides good lube properties.
YMMV
I am getting ready to install an M1 Garand barrel, so there is no aluminum to deal with. The anti-seize I speak of is the silver colored stuff that the local auto parts store tries to push a sale on everytime one buys a set of spark plugs. Don't get me wrong, the stuff really works. It's just the packets they sell are good for maybe 2-3 spark plugs. I do not believe it has any moly in it.
The military M16 maintenance manuals I have say to use molybdenum disulfide on the threads. The military sometimes have different reasons for how and why they do things. I wonder who is right. I tend to do things the way the military tech manuals say.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dinosdeuce
After reading this thread yall made me do some homework and investigating cause I had to know.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dinosdeuce
Moly based lube is acceptable and preferred. The problem lubricant is anything that is GRAPHITE based or supplemented. The graphite causes galvanic corrosion and or dissimilar metals corrosion.
Just dont make the mistake of NOT using lube. I have pulled apart a couple of build rifles only to have the reciever threads stay in the barrel nut after unscrewing it.[Bang]
Another important note- when using new components such as either a barrel nut or new upper "chase" the threads a bit. Run the nut on and off without a barrel a few times on DRY threads to burnish them a touch- It will draw up much smoother and you get a more precise torque.
Thanks for the correction. Shouldn't rely on memory.Quote:
Originally Posted by BPTactical
I've used C-5A from Fel-pro for this, as well as other lubrication requirements. This is the same stuff as is on Glocks from the factory. There's no graphite, and you can get a can from any decent auto parts store that would last you a lifetime, for gun use. I have a can somewhere that I've had for at least 20 years.
Having been a Air Cargo guy in another life, I've learned that anything with the name C-5 only has a 50/50 chance of working.[Coffee]Quote:
Originally Posted by Troublco
LOL! Like the one that took almost two weeks to get me over for the lead-in to OIF...crew told me it was the oldest one in the inventory, and I believed 'em. Broke so hard it was fuel phased while still loaded...the FIRST time! The fel-pro variant has the advantage of having no moving parts, though...Quote:
Originally Posted by SA Friday
I just noticed this thread. I just bought a new DPMS LR-308C and DPMS used the copper anti-seize compound on the barrel nut.
Leo