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  1. #1
    Industry Partner BPTactical's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dinosdeuce View Post
    There was a an old thread on AR15.com concerning the use of anti-sieze on assembly of the barrel and receiver. If the anti-sieze has any moly it is not compatible with aluminum, as in will corrode the aluminum. Lithium grease was recommended. As far as anyting else, I use wheel bearing grease moderately. It is high temp and provides good lube properties.
    YMMV
    After reading this thread yall made me do some homework and investigating cause I had to know.
    Moly based lube is acceptable and preferred. The problem lubricant is anything that is GRAPHITE based or supplemented. The graphite causes galvanic corrosion and or dissimilar metals corrosion.
    Just dont make the mistake of NOT using lube. I have pulled apart a couple of build rifles only to have the reciever threads stay in the barrel nut after unscrewing it.
    Another important note- when using new components such as either a barrel nut or new upper "chase" the threads a bit. Run the nut on and off without a barrel a few times on DRY threads to burnish them a touch- It will draw up much smoother and you get a more precise torque.
    The most important thing to be learned from those who demand "Equality For All" is that all are not equal...

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  2. #2
    Team Burris
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    Quote Originally Posted by BPTactical View Post
    After reading this thread yall made me do some homework and investigating cause I had to know.
    Moly based lube is acceptable and preferred. The problem lubricant is anything that is GRAPHITE based or supplemented. The graphite causes galvanic corrosion and or dissimilar metals corrosion.
    Just dont make the mistake of NOT using lube. I have pulled apart a couple of build rifles only to have the reciever threads stay in the barrel nut after unscrewing it.
    Another important note- when using new components such as either a barrel nut or new upper "chase" the threads a bit. Run the nut on and off without a barrel a few times on DRY threads to burnish them a touch- It will draw up much smoother and you get a more precise torque.
    Thanks for the correction. Shouldn't rely on memory.
    will work for:
    bullets primers & brass


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  3. #3
    Death Eater Troublco's Avatar
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    I've used C-5A from Fel-pro for this, as well as other lubrication requirements. This is the same stuff as is on Glocks from the factory. There's no graphite, and you can get a can from any decent auto parts store that would last you a lifetime, for gun use. I have a can somewhere that I've had for at least 20 years.
    SI VIS PACEM, PARA BELLUM

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  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Troublco View Post
    I've used C-5A from Fel-pro for this, as well as other lubrication requirements. This is the same stuff as is on Glocks from the factory. There's no graphite, and you can get a can from any decent auto parts store that would last you a lifetime, for gun use. I have a can somewhere that I've had for at least 20 years.
    Having been a Air Cargo guy in another life, I've learned that anything with the name C-5 only has a 50/50 chance of working.
    Mom's comin' 'round to put it back the way it ought to be.

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  5. #5
    Death Eater Troublco's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SA Friday View Post
    Having been a Air Cargo guy in another life, I've learned that anything with the name C-5 only has a 50/50 chance of working.
    LOL! Like the one that took almost two weeks to get me over for the lead-in to OIF...crew told me it was the oldest one in the inventory, and I believed 'em. Broke so hard it was fuel phased while still loaded...the FIRST time! The fel-pro variant has the advantage of having no moving parts, though...
    SI VIS PACEM, PARA BELLUM

    Herding cats and favoring center

  6. #6
    SSDG XDMan's Avatar
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    I just noticed this thread. I just bought a new DPMS LR-308C and DPMS used the copper anti-seize compound on the barrel nut.

    Leo
    “Never attribute to malice that which is adequately explained by stupidity”

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