1977 Ford E350 460cid vacuum diagram?

[DOC]

I checked the EGR and made sure it was moving properly. I don't know if the vacuum was getting to it since it seemed that it wasn't. There was a few old lines that were just breaking apart when I moved them but I replaced those lines with new ones. I followed the diagrams as best I could to figure what went where. But I finally found the VECI sticker and looked at the gap setting. .42 - .46 is what it said and I set them all to .35. Do you think that could be the problem right there? I should regap them any way just because it calls for it but its a true PITA to get to the front 2 on both sides.
I sprayed some starting fluid on the choke and it seems to be leaking too. Most of the hoses have stopped though.
And I set the idle to 1000 rpm so it drops down to 800 when in gear. Do you know if that will be to high for the tester?
Thanks for all your help thus far. I think that old carb maybe the problem. The previous guy had a different one on there and switched it out before he sold. There is a hot wire that you stick on electric chokes still installed.
I can't do anything now since its raining. And maybe a tornado somewhere west of here.
ETA: I checked the timing too. With the vacuum off the distributor and all the other vacuum lines fixed as best I could tell I set the timing to 12 BTDC.

[Great-Kazoo]

I checked the EGR and made sure it was moving properly. I don't know if the vacuum was getting to it since it seemed that it wasn't. There was a few old lines that were just breaking apart when I moved them but I replaced those lines with new ones. I followed the diagrams as best I could to figure what went where. But I finally found the VECI sticker and looked at the gap setting. .42 - .46 is what it said and I set them all to .35. Do you think that could be the problem right there? I should regap them any way just because it calls for it but its a true PITA to get to the front 2 on both sides.
I sprayed some starting fluid on the choke and it seems to be leaking too. Most of the hoses have stopped though.
And I set the idle to 1000 rpm so it drops down to 800 when in gear. Do you know if that will be to high for the tester?
Thanks for all your help thus far. I think that old carb maybe the problem. The previous guy had a different one on there and switched it out before he sold. There is a hot wire that you stick on electric chokes still installed.
I can't do anything now since its raining. And maybe a tornado somewhere west of here.
ETA: I checked the timing too. With the vacuum off the distributor and all the other vacuum lines fixed as best I could tell I set the timing to 12 BTDC.

Using starting fluid on the carb was a mistake. You're getting a false response based on the SF / carb intake, USE PB blaster, or something similar. You need something that will adhere to the area in question, Not flash off fast. Not to say there isn't a base plate issue. However don't use s/fluid OR carb cleaner.

[GunsRBadMMMMKay]

But I finally found the VECI sticker and looked at the gap setting. .42 - .46 is what it said and I set them all to .35. Do you think that could be the problem right there? I should regap them any way just because it calls for it but its a true PITA to get to the front 2 on both sides.

I'd set them to spec, if your spark is to quick/short it can have trouble evenly igniting all the fuel in time for the cycle.

[Great-Kazoo]

As gunsRbad said, You're not creating enough spark @ 35 to ignite fuel / air mix. Not only are you not having proper ignition of fuel. Any unburnt fuel not fouling up the plugs, exhaust valves, is mixing with the oil. Incorrect gap can and will cause a series of other issues if not taken care of.