Extend 22mm solid driveline by about 200mm

[ray1970]

If it were me, and it was going to be cutting/welding anyways, I'd probably just cut the ends off the old shaft and make a new shaft end to end instead of splicing the old one.

But, I'm a bit OCD that way.

[68Charger]

Sounds like you've got a plan now. Glad I was able to help. You know when I first saw metric numbers in the post title, I almost didn't open and read it. Metric? You Commie!

I have done enough work on AKs that I'm used to using Metric for mild machine work (pin sizes are metric, etc)... I supposed I could have said the shaft is .866" in diameter, and I need to extend it about 8"... and a Commie wouldn't be looking at buying a 1.25" x 3/16" wall tube to extend a metric part...

If it were me, and it was going to be cutting/welding anyways, I'd probably just cut the ends off the old shaft and make a new shaft end to end instead of splicing the old one.

But, I'm a bit OCD that way.

If you're re-using the ends, aren't you splicing it anyway?

This shaft is not like a car/truck driveshaft- it's solid, and has splines on each end- the U joints fit over the splines, there are not ears welded on a tube like a auto driveshaft.
I could make a new shaft but that would mean machining the splines- that would be more work than splicing the shaft...
I have a small mill, but no lathe With a rotary fixture and a key cutter, it could be possible to machine the splines- I guess that's a fall back plan if the splicing fails

[ray1970]

If you're re-using the ends, aren't you splicing it anyway?
unless you mean machining the splines- but that would be more work than splicing the shaft... I have a small mill, but no lathe

I guess I'm not quite sure what type of driveshaft you're dealing with. I just assumed it was a solid shaft. Didn't realize it was some sort of two piece splined shaft with a slip joint.

I didn't read all of the posts above very well. Probably not your original post that well either. Lol.

Just interjecting my opinion trying to give you some ideas.

[68Charger]

I guess I'm not quite sure what type of driveshaft you're dealing with. I just assumed it was a solid shaft. Didn't realize it was some sort of two piece splined shaft with a slip joint.

I didn't read all of the posts above very well. Probably not your original post that well either. Lol.

Just interjecting my opinion trying to give you some ideas.

No worries, just for clarity, here's the shaft in question:

Just get a Woody.
http://www.4xshaft.com/

I'm sure he'll make you one.

As you can see from the above picture, this more resembles a steering shaft than a Jeep driveshaft- but thanks for the suggestion!

[thvigil11]

I have done enough work on AKs that I'm used to using Metric for mild machine work (pin sizes are metric, etc)... I supposed I could have said the shaft is .866" in diameter, and I need to extend it about 8"... and a Commie wouldn't be looking at buying a 1.25" x 3/16" wall tube to extend a metric part...

Well put my friend. Just make sure you use plenty of soy sauce in that hulk.

Actually, those older Mitsu's are tanks. The mahindra's they sell now aren't bad either. Almost bought a 60's D2300 a few years back, was about to when I saw an add for a 53 TO30 Ferguson at a steal. Its actually a pre-merger, made just a few weeks before Massey got involved. I've been slowly restoring it ever since.

[68Charger]

Well put my friend. Just make sure you use plenty of soy sauce in that hulk.

Actually, those older Mitsu's are tanks. The mahindra's they sell now aren't bad either. Almost bought a 60's D2300 a few years back, was about to when I saw an add for a 53 TO30 Ferguson at a steal. Its actually a pre-merger, made just a few weeks before Massey got involved. I've been slowly restoring it ever since.

This is an MT250D... so it's a small tank with only 25HP (3 cyl Diesel)
The design of a pin that's inserted into the top of the axle casting did not lend itself well to a front-end loader- the casting broke where the pin when thru. This first happened over 10 years ago, and the housing was not breached- so I welded the pin back into what was now a "groove" in the top of the housing, and that held until late last year when the top of the housing broke in 3 pieces... and it sat for some time while I tried to figure out what to do (including just parting out the tractor).