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    Possesses Antidote for "Cool" Gman's Avatar
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    So...you're looking for galvanized steel corrugated roofing panels?
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    Moderator "Doctor" Grey TheGrey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman View Post
    So...you're looking for galvanized steel corrugated roofing panels?
    Oh- there's a technical industry term? Yes, that's exactly what I am seeking.
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheGrey View Post
    Oh- there's a technical industry term? Yes, that's exactly what I am seeking.
    Yeah, maybe it's just me being pedantic. Tin plated steel hasn't been used in my lifetime.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman View Post
    Yeah, maybe it's just me being pedantic. Tin plated steel hasn't been used in my lifetime.
    I did a roof claim on a house ordered out of the Sears Roebuck catalog back in the 1930's and it had a tin roof like that. Not to mention five different types of hardwood used in the interior. We talked about it before so I own't clutter up this thread with it.

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    QUITTER Irving's Avatar
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    .26 gauge is what you're looking for, and it is by far the most common. Lower the number, thicker it is. In all of my roof inspections, ever, I've come across .29 gauge ONCE. Which is of note because .29 gauge is the default one of my insurance carriers wants to write claims and it practically doesn't even exist in the field. That all aside, .26 and .24 gauge will suit you well. For cutting, I just used a metal cutting blade on my circular saw. A sawzall will do it just fine, but you'll want to hold it down so it's not bouncing all over the place and cutting a straight line may be challenging. That goes the same with a jig saw. You can cut with tin snips, but you'll regret every second of it and the cuts won't look good either. For securing to the wood, you could pre-drill pilot holes and use whatever wood screw, but you'd be better off with self-taping sheet metal screws. Those are still course thread and will work fine in the wood. The more fasteners you use, the less strain on each fastener, but you don't need to make it look like a battleship.

  6. #6
    Moderator "Doctor" Grey TheGrey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Irving View Post
    .26 gauge is what you're looking for, and it is by far the most common. Lower the number, thicker it is. In all of my roof inspections, ever, I've come across .29 gauge ONCE. Which is of note because .29 gauge is the default one of my insurance carriers wants to write claims and it practically doesn't even exist in the field. That all aside, .26 and .24 gauge will suit you well. For cutting, I just used a metal cutting blade on my circular saw. A sawzall will do it just fine, but you'll want to hold it down so it's not bouncing all over the place and cutting a straight line may be challenging. That goes the same with a jig saw. You can cut with tin snips, but you'll regret every second of it and the cuts won't look good either. For securing to the wood, you could pre-drill pilot holes and use whatever wood screw, but you'd be better off with self-taping sheet metal screws. Those are still course thread and will work fine in the wood. The more fasteners you use, the less strain on each fastener, but you don't need to make it look like a battleship.
    Good information, thank you! I'm sure I can find something that I can cut sheets with.

    Although I kind of fancy the battleship look....
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    Moderator "Doctor" Grey TheGrey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman View Post
    Yeah, maybe it's just me being pedantic. Tin plated steel hasn't been used in my lifetime.
    No, no. I was poking fun at myself- I knew there was a more proper term for it.
    "There is nothing in the world so permanent as a temporary emergency." - Robert A Heinlein The Moon is a Harsh Mistress

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