Stipple pics?

[FireMoth]

Thanks. Wish they were all my guns, instead of just my work

The 35 without the mag well is an APD officers duty piece... that border pattern he wanted along with the slimming was time consuming. Lesson learned about what i charge for pretty borders

[banks74]

I bet it was time consuming!! I have a 35 coming in here soon. I will have to get in contact with you. Your prices seem really fair.

[FireMoth]

I try to help out the local guys.

I'll get some more pattern example sup soon, but i can do just about anything to them.

The $75 is just cutting and texturing though. If i have to add material back, that changes both time and price rather dramatically. The mag well on ym 35 to get the nice blended shoot took about a week with drying time. the stippling took a day

[The Rat]

Oh hey, something I can comment on!

After reading some internet threads and being inspired by some good stipple jobs, I bought a $25 wood burning kit (like a soldering iron but with interchangeable heads) and practiced on a couple spare rail panels.

Two days later I was working on weapons.











G19 + G17 with grip chopped to G19 length. (Universal Glock concept)


This is the cheapest, easiest weapon mod I've ever done. It made a dramatic improvement in my pistols. It helped out on the carbines, but it was nowhere near as dramatic a change as on the pistols.

The only real cost is time. Even then, put on some music while you stipple and the 2hr cost on a pistol is gone quickly.

[FireMoth]

looks like you have a really good start there. Clean technique, with good edges.

If you want to experiment with the next step, you are already in the right ball park. Most of the interchangeable burners use .250" stock for the tips. get your self some brass or steel, depending on the type, and shape some tips to make different marks, then try experimenting with drawing or moving the tip as you go.

Getting old rail panels, or parts to practice on is a good idea before you go after guns with the different patterns, as the more aggressive ones increase the chance of burn through

As you can see on your very cleanly done glocks, the texturing doesn't hide the existing pattern and borders. The other thing, then, to try, is taking files or grinders to the stock before you texture, to change shapes. The nice thing about the texturing process is it will hide surface finish, even if it wont hide raised edges or recesses.

So you can get pretty gnarly with the file or dremel, then just burn over the scratches.

All in all, good work. keep at it.

[Irving]

Here is my home job.





Looks a lot more crappy way up close like that.

I practiced on a cheepo TacStar pistol grip for an 870. It's so big, you can practice different patterns on the same piece. The plastic on the TacStar is so hard that it is actually kind of painful to hold.

[The Rat]

looks like you have a really good start there. Clean technique, with good edges.

If you want to experiment with the next step, you are already in the right ball park. Most of the interchangeable burners use .250" stock for the tips. get your self some brass or steel, depending on the type, and shape some tips to make different marks, then try experimenting with drawing or moving the tip as you go.

Getting old rail panels, or parts to practice on is a good idea before you go after guns with the different patterns, as the more aggressive ones increase the chance of burn through

As you can see on your very cleanly done glocks, the texturing doesn't hide the existing pattern and borders. The other thing, then, to try, is taking files or grinders to the stock before you texture, to change shapes. The nice thing about the texturing process is it will hide surface finish, even if it wont hide raised edges or recesses.

So you can get pretty gnarly with the file or dremel, then just burn over the scratches.

All in all, good work. keep at it.

Thanks for the suggestions. I did notice it was a pain in the ass doing the stippling on the areas that were already textured. (Between the finger grooves, the backstrap.) Will definitely have to sand those down next time.

Man I don't even need another Glock but I'd kind of like to improve my technique on this.

[FireMoth]

A little trick to save time, is sand smooth, but don't try to sand all the way. poly gums up the sand paper quick.

As long as you have a steady hand, i find the best way to remove material quick is with a tungsten carbide cutter in a dremel tool. Practice on other things first, so you know how it cuts, but it saves time.

CLP works great as cutting fluid on poly, too.

Next, smooth with medium and fine emery cloth. this si the fabric backed stuff. use long strips and buff it like a shoe.

Finally, get down to 400 and finer sand paper to clean up where you aren't going to texture.

Dremel sanding drums gum up really fast, so don't use them much. They can have their purposes, but the just get ruined if used aggressively

And if not glocks, getting old polymer furniture, broken gun frames, etc. is a good way to practice the more aggressive stuff first. Doesn't even have to be a gun....

[Irving]

Do you guys clean your stippled grips any special way?

[FireMoth]

Compressed air works well, as do the little keyboard cleaner cans.

Non chlorinated break parts cleaner works if you don't have paint or anything on it...

Of course if its real nasty, strip your frame, and into the dishwasher she goes