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My current company truck is a Ford. Not sure what year. Maybe a 2014? It?s going to roll over 260,000 soon and it doesn?t make me nervous to take it in long road trips. Change the oil religiously whenever the ?oil change required? message pops. It came on about two weeks ago but I?ve been busy running back and forth to Cheyenne so I haven?t had time to deal with it. The ?change oil soon? reminder seems to come on around 8K to 10K miles and if you ignore that for a couple of weeks you get the ?oil change required? message.
May be a stupid question but are these charging stations universal? If I bought a new Porsche Taycan could I charge it at a tesla station or only at home?
I had seriously considered a tesla before I bought my car but I had "range anxiety" even on the test drive. Does this get better over time? Also I have a deep connection with the sounds of my exhaust and engine (stock) and I'm holding on to that with both hands but sometimes wonder if that goes away too.
May be a stupid question but are these charging stations universal? If I bought a new Porsche Taycan could I charge it at a tesla station or only at home?
I had seriously considered a tesla before I bought my car but I had "range anxiety" even on the test drive. Does this get better over time? Also I have a deep connection with the sounds of my exhaust and engine (stock) and I'm holding on to that with both hands but sometimes wonder if that goes away too.
Not a stupid question at all. These are the types of posts I hope to bring out from more people because if you have the question I'm sure others do too. Many think they know the answer to some of these sorts of questions but often times are either wrong or outdated so I'm happy to address stuff exactly like this.
Short answer: No
Long answer: Tesla has opened their patent portfolio and superchargers (at minimal cost to cover electricity, maintenance & expansion) to any manufacturer who wishes to use them. The "others" we'll call them have decided to develop their own network and proprietary charge system so that they can monetize it for residual income profit.
Porsche has decided to make their own network so unless they produced adapters to use on public chargers and regular outlets (like Tesla does) you'll be stuck with the handful of charge points they have on their own network.
It does get better with time once you realize what the limitations are and work within those. No different than any other vehicle for that matter it's just different sets of limitations.
Yeah, the enjoyment of those noises subsides as well. Whenever I'm in an ICE car now I immediately notice how loud, ratty and annoying it is. There's just something about the quiet smoothness of EVs that luxury ICE vehicle manufacturers have spent a LOT of money trying to attain that just comes naturally to them.
Thanks for the reply.... I don't think I'm ready (or the network is ready) to purchase electric yet but I'd like to be informed when it is. Although that Fisker is an interesting car...hmm
Thoughts on range anxiety?
ChickNorris
02-28-2019, 15:21
There is an electric car thread.
That way --->
ChickNorris
02-28-2019, 15:22
<----- Wait, its that way
The EV thread is charging. It's not going anywhere right now. :D
Thanks for the reply.... I don't think I'm ready (or the network is ready) to purchase electric yet but I'd like to be informed when it is. Although that Fisker is an interesting car...hmm
Thoughts on range anxiety?
Fisker? Yeah that was a really interesting idea/concept until they all burn to the ground. Sounds like you need to do some more CURRENT research. ;-)
as to range anxiety, supercharger Network and other related EV topics there is a couple of EV specific threads where there's lots of information to be had if that's what you're interested in.
ChickNorris
02-28-2019, 15:27
Naarrrrf
Back on track sorry for the diversion
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190228/057692b644de0fdb4c1714d0489aadc4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190228/ccc85a70c2dddf6ac84eac922fd50bac.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190228/ecd4eac1f73647f2c4e8766de21bfd19.jpg
Bailey Guns
02-28-2019, 19:59
I had the opportunity to drive a 2019 Nissan Murano today. Probably the most comfortable leather seats and best driving position I've ever experienced in a vehicle. Nice car, just not my style.
No reason for posting this really...
OtterbatHellcat
02-28-2019, 20:42
Seating position? That's awesome.
Replace a water pump in one of those, there's other seating choices.
no reason for this post either, just saying the water pump replacement sucks ass.
Bailey Guns
02-28-2019, 22:22
Replace a water pump in one of those...
Can that be done from the very comfy driver's seat?
Can that be done from the very comfy driver's seat?
There's an app for that.
My entire list of new Nissan vehicles that I find interesting.
1. GT-R
Great-Kazoo
02-28-2019, 23:20
Can that be done from the very comfy driver's seat?
I'm sure something can be pumped while you're in the front seat. Providing you're not doing it in the HOV lane
No really honey that was a fur jacket i purchased for you. What? why it's being cleaned.
ChickNorris
02-28-2019, 23:20
There's an app for that.
My entire list of new Nissan vehicles that I find interesting.
1. GT-R
It is, but the JDM version is a bit more interesting (for me) because its RHD.
Just have to wait 25 years.
There's an app for that.
My entire list of new Nissan vehicles that I find interesting.
1. GT-R
Our Nissan list looks the same.
GTR has very high maintenance cost. DIY transmission fluid is about $700, and carbon brake pad/rotor replacement is like "not good."
At least they use 0w-40 mobil1 oil.
when someone decide to buy cpo, make sure the brake pad and rotor is good to go.
OtterbatHellcat
02-28-2019, 23:50
Can that be done from the very comfy driver's seat?
Yes....with a really fat wallet and a NASCAR type group of mechanics.
Riiight.
Ever tried to explain to someone this is what you want used?
Like you asked for a unicorn...
So you write it down & they still get it wrong.
Yup, I've seen some guys who messes up on their own vehicle part run.
Next time, you send them a photo of the 5qt jug, so that they can grab the right one at Walmart for $25.47. :D
https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/c9c01299-d03d-4585-a9c6-30c352716672_1.6f2ed89dcd4e89b90d6c8050c73e8a06.jp eg?odnHeight=450&odnWidth=450&odnBg=FFFFFF
ChickNorris
03-01-2019, 00:15
I don't know how I deleted my post, really. Glad you got a copy Mr. Prena : )
I don't know how I deleted my post, really. Glad you got a copy Mr. Prena : )
For a second, I believed you were secret power mod here.
ChickNorris
03-01-2019, 00:18
Nope. Not yet or I would have restored it already.
Can't get into the new gtr...never have. Just seems like a car designed on a Playstation with no soul. Ok it's fast-ish but meh. Not a pretty car or something I've ever lusted over. Like a bloated Honda civic.
The r34...that's different. It's almost like the new one shouldn't have been called a GTR in fear of insulting the last one.
Great-Kazoo
03-01-2019, 08:27
Nope. Not yet or I would have restored it already.
Or locked both threads ;)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUDtFdnn9oQ
Or locked both threads ;)
[LOL]
There's an app for that.
My entire list of new Nissan vehicles that I find interesting.
1. GT-R
A base price of $99,990, what's not to like?
I need an engine for my 1970 Powerwagon. It used to be that you could find decent ones in salvage yards, but when scrap prices went through the roof a few years back a lot of older vehicles got shredded.
OtterbatHellcat
03-03-2019, 11:02
We know who to some of that blame goes to.
BushMasterBoy
03-03-2019, 11:25
Should be a 318, 360, 440 somewheres. Try a want ad.
(All I got is GM's)
Should be a 318, 360, 440 somewheres. Try a want ad.
(All I got is GM's)
It's got a 383 in it now, so I'm kind of looking for one of those, otherwise I'll have to find a flywheel (4 speed) if i put a 440 in it, as well as an intake, distributor, and other stuff. Small block is not an option, because that opens up a whole other can of worms.
Eyeing a used A4 for the kid. It will keep him busy and out of stupid.
And I found my dream truck:
Kamaz T4.
And I found my dream truck:
Kamaz T4.
Doesn't look like they are any cheaper than Pinzgauers. At least they've got a lot more power though.
Kamaz T4....I would hate to feed that beast.
Doesn't look like they are any cheaper than Pinzgauers. At least they've got a lot more power though.
There is something about a truck that size doing jumps and drifting that makes me smile like a frigging kid in a candy store.
With a 300 liter fuel tank to boot.
I dont know why but I wanna buy the used f10 M5.
I can only afford old one.
I saw some interesting vehicles in Russia. The Russian made vehicles were some of the worst. If I needed a truck with some umph! I think I would go with a nice condition M35A2 deuce and a half. HBAR had one for sale a while back and as tempting as it was, I just wouldn't use it as much as it would take to make it worthwhile. For those who are picking up 35+ acres of wilderness, it would be a nice addition to the shed.
SideShow Bob
03-06-2019, 19:29
I need an engine for my 1970 Powerwagon. It used to be that you could find decent ones in salvage yards, but when scrap prices went through the roof a few years back a lot of older vehicles got shredded.
For something that old, you’ll have to go with a remanufacted long block (if they still exist for that year series), rebuilt crate motor or find a decent basic block & heads and do a ground up rebuild then swap it in when you are done. Or yank your existing to do a rebuild.
Great-Kazoo
03-07-2019, 00:00
https://flagstaff.craigslist.org/cto/d/pocatello-toyota-hiace-diesel-4x4-doka/6832146604.html
Great-Kazoo
03-07-2019, 00:16
Why stop there
http://www.yotaimports.com/
I love what you do for me....
https://youtu.be/iw0HlqrwU38
https://youtu.be/BjkQYAzGBuE
So I noticed that my neighbor got a new vehicle, but her old one is sitting in her driveway. I assume something went wrong and she got a new one. I went to talk to her to confirm. It's a 2005 Jeep Liberty (gas) with just over 100,000 miles on it. She said it was having a problem, and the guy she took it too just kept addressing the code it was throwing and nothing else. Sounds like a seized water pump might have smoked the motor. I don't know what she wants for it, but does anyone know if that might be worth messing with as a cheap get around vehicle, or fix and resell? I'm assuming it'll need a new motor, but don't know anything else about it. She's an older lady so it's probably never even been off pavement or modded. What do you think?
SideShow Bob
03-15-2019, 20:47
Which gas motor did it have (V-6 or 4 cylinder) & transmission (manual or auto) ?
Just a guess, but I bet V6 and auto. I'll ask her next time I see her.
No first hand experience but I thought the Liberty was kind of a POS?
I know the diesel ones can be made to be pretty sweet. I always assumed they were on the lame side viewed through the off-road lens. I don't know enough about them to know if they are POS as far as breaking down and being unreliable though. I was thinking that if I was going to flip a vehicle in Colorado, a 4x4 would be a good one to do.
SideShow Bob
03-15-2019, 21:12
I know the diesel ones can be made to be pretty sweet. I always assumed they were on the lame side viewed through the off-road lens. I don't know enough about them to know if they are POS as far as breaking down and being unreliable though. I was thinking that if I was going to flip a vehicle in Colorado, a 4x4 would be a good one to do.
Had a later model liberty, gutless V-6, Ac had to be recharged every spring and late summer, the dealer could never find & fix the leak.
Slid on some ice coming out of a car wash, very slow speed, and hit a curb bent some front end components. Driver’s power window regulator went out. Yep a crappy car but if it was cheap enough and ajunk yard motor was available, it would make a good flipper project.
I'll probably pass then. Glad I ran it by the peanut gallery.
Wouldn't make a good flipper. You probably wouldn't get out of it what you put into it.
The boy wanted a stick shift. We got a stickshift. He cant drive the stickshift and it will take a while before he gets it at this rate.
Me and the Mrs are fighting over who gets to drive the car to work. :)
2011 A4 awd stick. Engine rebuilt for the oil leak issue.
Question for the techs and enthusiasts.
Do you have a scanner/obd2 tool? What do you recommend for the newer 2011 and up cars?
That sounds like a fun car to drive.
Question for the techs and enthusiasts.
Do you have a scanner/obd2 tool? What do you recommend for the newer 2011 and up cars?
I just recently purchased Autel Autolink AL319 OBD2 CAN OBDII Auto Car Code Reader Diagnostic Scanner Tool for Mercedes-Benz and other vehicles. I do also have Creator for other vehicle.
I had to purchase the Autel to clear the Codes after doing Magnet for Cam timing, and Thermostat (W204). It just does basic stuff. Read and clear codes. Not bad for $28.
I am fairly sure it will work, but see compatibility of this and other model for Audi.
I would also see what Audiworld/Audiforum/Audizine recommends.
https://www.auteltech.com/
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/0PcAAOSw-95balfm/s-l1600.jpg
So I need to change the clutch on the kids car. Older clutch, kid learning to drive stick, so not unexpected. But what was unexpected was the no secondary jacking points on the audi. Wtf? So its jack the car and support it in the same spot.... not sure I can pull that off, plus jacks scare me.
So after our people getting crushed thread I stared to look at alternatives. Two post lifts are out, too much space and $. Lifting platforms are nice but $1500, a bit pricey still.
I found a product called safe jack or something like that. Esentially you put an adapter on the floor jack, lift up the car, and attach legs to the adapter turning it into a jack. Found one at $125/ea, and a cheaper version at $45/ea.
Will order 2x of the cheaper one to try our and if it looks good I will order 2 more to put the car in the air with
Just drive the front wheels up onto two floor jacks, jack it up, then put the stands on the primary jack points. Totally safe and should be super easy with a blown clutch.
https://www.quickjack.com
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190404/10dd46017c15c896a65991b17bed0751.jpg
Just drive the front wheels up onto two floor jacks, jack it up, then put the stands on the primary jack points. Totally safe and should be super easy with a blown clutch.
I would crib the tires if I could, but I found a note not to load the tires once a brace that shores up the trans tunnel is removed. And it needs to be removed to access the trans. Its dumb but unless I figure out otherwise I am stuck with jackpoints.
https://www.quickjack.com
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190404/10dd46017c15c896a65991b17bed0751.jpg
$1500. You got one I could borrow/rent?
[emoji477]
Could you put a board across the jack points and Jack the car up near to the actual points, then put the jack stands in the correct area?
After putting gas at 120th & Colorado Stinker, I have a check engine light.
It said misfire on cyl 8 again, but acts like coil or pre O2 sensor.
First, I need to use up all the gas, and change ignition coil with different cylinder to see it is.
Then put new gas and see.
Great-Kazoo
04-04-2019, 15:20
So I need to change the clutch on the kids car. Older clutch, kid learning to drive stick, so not unexpected. But what was unexpected was the no secondary jacking points on the audi. Wtf? So its jack the car and support it in the same spot.... not sure I can pull that off, plus jacks scare me.
So after our people getting crushed thread I stared to look at alternatives. Two post lifts are out, too much space and $. Lifting platforms are nice but $1500, a bit pricey still.
I found a product called safe jack or something like that. Esentially you put an adapter on the floor jack, lift up the car, and attach legs to the adapter turning it into a jack. Found one at $125/ea, and a cheaper version at $45/ea.
Will order 2x of the cheaper one to try our and if it looks good I will order 2 more to put the car in the air with
Roll on car ramps front & rear tires.
https://www.harborfreight.com/solid-steel-auto-ramp-set-63250.html
jack stands up on to frame strong points. If it were me doing it i'd go with 2 front and rear of vehicle, along with 1 on each side of it. This way you have support across the entire frame. Humping a transmission out when not using a lift the more frame support to keep any sway down, the better
https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W41023-Capacity-Heavy/dp/B000779SUO/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=vehicle+jack+stands&qid=1554412589&s=gateway&sr=8-12
transmission jack
https://www.harborfreight.com/800-lbs-low-lift-transmission-jack-60234.html
You're GTG.
Fortunately i no longer have that issue when needing to work on things.
http://www.directlift.com/Four-Post-Lift-Pro-Park-8S-Standard-P44C9.aspx
Trailer it to the DIY garage in denver. Use their lift.
Great-Kazoo
04-04-2019, 15:42
Trailer it to the DIY garage in denver. Use their lift.
^^Winner^^ End of discussion.
They still have them in the metro area?
^^Winner^^ End of discussion.
They still have them in the metro area?
There's one off of 65th and Washington. The one on federal moved there it appears.
Hell, even if you could support it in your garage, the real lift at the DIY space would be worth the $100 or so, so you wouldn't have to work on the ground. Besides, they have lots of tools.
Great-Kazoo
04-04-2019, 16:47
There's one off of 65th and Washington. The one on federal moved there it appears.
so you wouldn't have to work on the ground. Besides, they have lots of tools.
When not in use, makes a great work bench.
https://i.imgur.com/P99kgsKh.jpg
When not in use, makes a great work bench.
https://i.imgur.com/P99kgsKh.jpg
Sometimes, I hate you....
Great-Kazoo
04-04-2019, 16:59
Sometimes, I hate you....
get in line.
Just wait till the electrician is finished running wire and mini-splits are up & running.
That 185 hobart w/ full tank. $400 @ garage sale. Still hate me ;)
After putting gas at 120th & Colorado Stinker, I have a check engine light.
It said misfire on cyl 8 again, but acts like coil or pre O2 sensor.
First, I need to use up all the gas, and change ignition coil with different cylinder to see it is.
Then put new gas and see.
Sorry. Found out wires and coil was little dusty. After cleaning those,it is running fine (for now).
get in line.
Just wait till the electrician is finished running wire and mini-splits are up & running.
That 185 hobart w/ full tank. $400 @ garage sale. Still hate me ;)
My welder was free. It's a bit larger (probably 1000 lbs), and about your age. Draws up to 100a of 240v. Does MiG, TIG, and stick.
But yes, as far as practicality, that's a helluva deal.
My welder was free. It's a bit larger (probably 1000 lbs), and about your age. Draws up to 100a of 240v. Does MiG, TIG, and stick.
But yes, as far as practicality, that's a helluva deal.
Sounds like something out of my grand dad's shop.
My welder was free. It's a bit larger (probably 1000 lbs), and about your age. Draws up to 100a of 240v. Does MiG, TIG, and stick.
But yes, as far as practicality, that's a helluva deal.
Sounds like you can finally weld up that battleship ya always wanted. We can call it Mighty Bro.
Question for the techs and enthusiasts.
Do you have a scanner/obd2 tool? What do you recommend for the newer 2011 and up cars?
For the Audi, you need to get a VAG-COM setup.
http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/
Sounds like you can finally weld up that battleship ya always wanted. We can call it Mighty Bro.
Done.
Throwing that into the stencil cutting software
Martinjmpr
04-05-2019, 09:26
Sounds like you can finally weld up that battleship ya always wanted. We can call it Mighty Bro.
Or maybe his own Kill Dozer?
Way to draw NSA into the thread...
[panic]
BushMasterBoy
04-05-2019, 11:16
Sorry. Found out wires and coil was little dusty. After cleaning those,it is running fine (for now).
Silicone based dielectric grease on the coil electrical connections may prevent future misfires. Keeps things from sticking together too. Deicing material on roads can wreck havoc on electrical connectors.
Silicone based dielectric grease on the coil electrical connections may prevent future misfires. Keeps things from sticking together too. Deicing material on roads can wreck havoc on electrical connectors.
Thanks. I always thought it was unnecessary process until it happened to me.
I am just happy that it was not the bad ignition coil nor o2.
Learned.
BushMasterBoy
04-05-2019, 18:23
I learned that from the Air Force. Avionics didn't like the constant rain of western Europe. Or the wash rack...
Another problem. Try to put the hard top down today, and it wont.
I just bought 2 salmon relays for a repair.
The clutch project is a bit frustrating. Apparently there are two vendors, Luk and Sachs, that were OEM. Both claim to use with their own flywheel only. OK, how to figure out who made the flywheel on the car? Car will be ramped today and I will look for markings. Also taking a trip to a dealer first maybe they will know.
Still not sure if afermarket is worth it. The added holding torque is only needed if the ecu is tunned, and the boy is not sure he wants to do it.
Also aftermarket clutches have a preference for Luk flywheels.
And the audi forums are not very helpfull as they seem to be full of clueless 20 something with no knowledge and contradicting statements.
Great-Kazoo
04-06-2019, 09:12
The clutch project is a bit frustrating. Apparently there are two vendors, Luk and Sachs, that were OEM. Both claim to use with their own flywheel only. OK, how to figure out who made the flywheel on the car? Car will be ramped today and I will look for markings. Also taking a trip to a dealer first maybe they will know.
Still not sure if afermarket is worth it. The added holding torque is only needed if the ecu is tunned, and the boy is not sure he wants to do it.
Also aftermarket clutches have a preference for Luk flywheels.
And the audi forums are not very helpfull as they seem to be full of clueless 20 something with no knowledge and contradicting statements.
Just call a dealer and give them the VIN #. They should be able to look it up from there.
BushMasterBoy
04-06-2019, 10:43
Sometimes I do "parts forensics". Clean the part with brake cleaner spray cans. Take lots of photos of the part. Look for stamped part number or manufacturer marks. Enlarge photos if necessary. Measure the part dimensions.
Scour the forums for the experienced posters. Watch out for "unqualified statements" from trolls, newbs, & shills.
The clutch project is a bit frustrating. Apparently there are two vendors, Luk and Sachs, that were OEM. Both claim to use with their own flywheel only. OK, how to figure out who made the flywheel on the car? Car will be ramped today and I will look for markings. Also taking a trip to a dealer first maybe they will know.
Still not sure if afermarket is worth it. The added holding torque is only needed if the ecu is tunned, and the boy is not sure he wants to do it.
Also aftermarket clutches have a preference for Luk flywheels.
And the audi forums are not very helpfull as they seem to be full of clueless 20 something with no knowledge and contradicting statements.
Too bad you're not further south. Hardey's Motorwerks (https://hardeysmotorwerks.com/) in Parker is amazing and reasonable.
The clutch project is a bit frustrating. Apparently there are two vendors, Luk and Sachs, that were OEM. Both claim to use with their own flywheel only. OK, how to figure out who made the flywheel on the car? Car will be ramped today and I will look for markings. Also taking a trip to a dealer first maybe they will know.
Still not sure if afermarket is worth it. The added holding torque is only needed if the ecu is tunned, and the boy is not sure he wants to do it.
Also aftermarket clutches have a preference for Luk flywheels.
And the audi forums are not very helpfull as they seem to be full of clueless 20 something with no knowledge and contradicting statements.
Sounds like audizine.
Silicone based dielectric grease on the coil electrical connections may prevent future misfires. Keeps things from sticking together too. Deicing material on roads can wreck havoc on electrical connectors.
I've also found it helpful in keeping spark plug boots from fusing to the plugs
Sounds like audizine.
Yep.
Need sugestions for a torquewrench brand. Digital prefered. There will be lots of torquing and angle torquing on this job.
Anyone use a torquewrench with an angle indicator? Or is the analog angle indicator the way to go?
Great-Kazoo
04-07-2019, 08:59
Need sugestions for a torquewrench brand. Digital prefered. There will be lots of torquing and angle torquing on this job.
Anyone use a torquewrench with an angle indicator? Or is the analog angle indicator the way to go?
It's not digital, but the latest one i have is a K-D from napa. I picked it up since napa will send it out for recalibration and doesn't have a tool truck price tag.
Picked up a bottle of ceramic coating to throw on when it warms up. Gotta do a small paint correction first but should make washing a lot easier... Blackcarlife
Picked up a bottle of ceramic coating to throw on when it warms up. Gotta do a small paint correction first but should make washing a lot easier... Blackcarlife
I have to do a big paint correction on the roof of my truck. Clearcoat is gone in several spots. I picked up a 2-part pro rattle can once the weather is stable and I have the time to get after it.
Saw this Vintage Lotus Esprit near Dollar Tree.
https://i.imgur.com/WMvfAWr.jpg?1
ChickNorris
04-23-2019, 22:40
That's a blast from the 80s. Probably not a Toyota engine.
Looks like a DeLorean.
-John
That's a blast from the 80s. Probably not a Toyota engine.
Not a Lotus fanatic, but I think it was previous generation of Toyota engine.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lotus_Esprit
Looks like a DeLorean.
-John
It was a same Italian designer Giorgetto Giugiaro
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giorgetto_Giugiaro
DenverGP
04-23-2019, 23:34
Long time family friend wrecked his 1969 Opel drag car a couple weeks back. My dad did all the electrical work on the car (recently wiring up the new nitrous system, delay box, etc).
Car was running under 7 second quarter miles using about a 300 shot of nitrous. Apparently a sway bar link broke just after launch. Driver walked away.
https://i.imgur.com/gcognFk.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/UlaDgHv.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/r8j4ykD.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/MWleDFz.jpg
In car video of a run a few years ago:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mNc0aZ3AERc
ChickNorris
04-24-2019, 07:38
Not a Lotus fanatic, but I think it was previous generation of Toyota engine.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lotus_Esprit
It was a same Italian designer Giorgetto Giugiaro
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giorgetto_Giugiaro
I was sleepy last night... used the word probably. In fact it was a 3.5L v8 that lotus developed.
The Elise, exige, and evoque use Toyota engines.
However, they all used Lucas wire smoke.
ChickNorris
04-24-2019, 07:42
On monday, saw a for sale sign on an 'in need' 55 Roadmaster Riviera 2 door that I'm still thinking about. If its still on my mind by this weekend...
ChickNorris
04-24-2019, 07:48
Also saw a cherry red 442 convertible that gave me a smile on Sunday. Not in need & not for sale. Took a pic.
Aloha_Shooter
04-24-2019, 10:51
Jer's sales notice for one of his Teslas got me looking again at the feasability of road tripping, especially as I noted the hotel for my annual Tucson trip is one of Tesla's SuperCharge stations.
The run to Tucson is 841 miles or thereabouts. I usually overnight in Socorro, NM after work and then drive all morning to Tucson but try to return in one day (usually about 14 hours total travel time). That's with most gas stops lasting 15-20 minutes roughly every 300 miles. It looks to me like a Tesla S 85 would add 2 hours to my total travel time with charge stops roughly every 170 miles for half an hour. Still just not in the realm of attractive for the kind of road trip I do. Porsche/VW's Ultra-Charge proposal that knocks the charge time down to 15 minutes might change that calculus but for the moment, it's still ICE all the way for me.
Jer's sales notice for one of his Teslas got me looking again at the feasability of road tripping, especially as I noted the hotel for my annual Tucson trip is one of Tesla's SuperCharge stations.
The run to Tucson is 841 miles or thereabouts. I usually overnight in Socorro, NM after work and then drive all morning to Tucson but try to return in one day (usually about 14 hours total travel time). That's with most gas stops lasting 15-20 minutes roughly every 300 miles. It looks to me like a Tesla S 85 would add 2 hours to my total travel time with charge stops roughly every 170 miles for half an hour. Still just not in the realm of attractive for the kind of road trip I do. Porsche/VW's Ultra-Charge proposal that knocks the charge time down to 15 minutes might change that calculus but for the moment, it's still ICE all the way for me.
There's far too many variables not included with this post to speak to specifics but I'll make a few general points and ask a few more quesitons...
What planner did you use? The Tesla one is often regarded as a worst case scenario and is far from the best way to plan your trip/route. Many use "A better Route Planner" or similar as it's far more efficient in it's planning. The Tesla calculator has you sitting far too long at Superchargers. As an example, I planned a trip recently and the first couple of Supercharger stops on the Tesla trip planner had me sitting at the Supercharger for like an hour at each one. With ABR it took me a different direction that had me stopping only 15min or so at each point with another stop along the way. The reason being is that you want to arrive at Supercharger with a low battery state. Your battery pack will take a substantially faster charger at the bottom half than the top half. ABR will take this into account and as a result your routes are much faster with less time sitting at a Supercharger charging at slower rates. If you don't want to put any thought into a trip it's super easy to input a destination into the nav in a Tesla and just go letting the built-in calculator tell you when to stop and for how long. This works fine and will get you there for sure with the least amount of drama/thought and is the same algorithm found on the Tesla Trip Planner online I linked to earlier that you likely used. If you're like me though you can do a little bit of footwork beforehand and have your trip planned more efficiently. When you do your overnight stop your car will charge up to 100% w/o you doing anything which will get you on the road the next morning with a full charge and fewer/shorter requirements for stops. I'm not saying it's a perfect solution for your single specific case but it's probably a lot closer than you think it is based on the #'s your using.
There's also the long range Model S and Model 3. The latter of which is capable of the newer v3 Supercharging that is currently rolling out. This will cut the stop time in half and the longer range will require fewer stops. These come at a premium but if you're dead set on this single specific trip being done in this very specific manner you'll have to pay to play. Personally, I chose to pay much less for less range and longer charge times and this still hasn't been an issue even on longer road trips. The total number of stops and time of each stop really hasn't been noticeable on the length trips we've taken. It certainty hasn't been so long I'm considering the price difference to be worth it.
As far as other manufacturer's claims... just know that this comes at a cost. Tesla can charge much faster than they do currently but weren't sure of how negative this would affect the overall life expectancy of the battery. Now that the data is coming in that the battery packs are going to last much much longer than they had originally speculated they're starting to increase charge rates in a manner they feel is safe for the battery packs. This is nothing new. Porsche/VW are not reinventing the wheel in this aspect. If 15 minutes is your magic number simply go buy a Model 3 which can add 50% of charge to it's battery pack in 10-15 min now thanks to v3 Supercharging and 1,000mph charge rates. This is technology that is available to consumers today. It's not vaporware or promises like others are big on making.
A word of warning for vaporware other manufacturers are peddling currently: don't count any chickens until they've hatched. The supposed "Tesla Killer"' Audi e-Tron just quietly laid a fat egg in terms of it's EPA rated range figures. It gets a paltry 208 miles and requires a 95 kWh battery to do so. For quite a while now Audi claimed it would get well over 300 miles prior to EPA testing. Sure looked good on paper and had a lot of people saying it was going to end Tesla. Turns out the latest Audi tech can't even compete with Tesla's nearly decade-old tech. To give you an idea my 2013 Model S w/85k miles (currently for sale (https://www.ar-15.co/threads/173528-2013-Model-S-Gray-Black-Tech-Pkg-CPO-Warranty-FREE-Supercharging-SAS-21-quot-Turbines-Dual-Chargers)) is EPA rated to the same 208 miles of range but requires only a 60 kWh battery to do so. That's Tesla's 8-year-old battery technology and Audi's latest greatest can't even come close to the efficiency number? Yikes. Just year after year of disappointments from the contenders who promise the world and never end up making good on any of their promises. People rave about vaporware and yet the thing you can buy today is ridiculed for achieving the numbers in real life that other manufacturers can only dream of. Porsche made lots of promises and now it's nothing but delays and backtracks on promises. This EV thing isn't quite as easy as Tesla makes it look and people greatly underestimate just how much of a headstart Tesla has on the competition.
In fact, just yesterday Tesla announced (https://www.tesla.com/blog/longest-range-electric-vehicle-now-goes-even-farther) that new Model S Long Range cars being built would receive a quiet bump to the range that will put them at 370 miles on a single charge. This is done through the use of even more efficient motors and NOT from a bump in the kWh range. This number promises to grow even more as they implement the newer battery tech patent portfolio they gained when they acquired Maxwell Technologies. Rumors have the dry lithium manufacturer process alone bumping range & performance at least 10% without any other changes and simplification & shortening of the manufacturing process also cutting battery pack cost production at least 10%. Not too bad for such a small, stock-only acquisition. Tesla has the best battery tech in the industry and continually advance it at a rate that's staggering and produces real world results. Manufacturers are coming to market with inferior tech that can't even compete with their old tech so I have no idea how they plan to compete other than pipe dreams and empty promises.
Those two hours once a year outweigh every other part of owning a full electric so heavily that it's not even in the realm of a possibility?
Those two hours once a year outweigh every other part of owning a full electric so heavily that it's not even in the realm of a possibility?
This is a really good point I've tried to make previously. People get caught up in a 1% scenario that they lose sight of the other 99% sometimes. In 6 months of ownership I've already made up for that lost 2 hours in not going to gas stations, oil changes or other maintenance several times over. This was my first winter since I started driving cars decades ago where I didn't have to go to a gas station once and I can't tell you how awesome of a feeling that is.
Aloha_Shooter
04-24-2019, 15:55
There's far too many variables not included with this post to speak to specifics but I'll make a few general points and ask a few more quesitons...
What planner did you use?
It doesn't really take much of a planner. I looked at where the locations for Superchargers were. Since the route is pretty simple, I-25 south to Hatch, cross over through NM to I-10 then west to Tucson, I allowed for burning the first full charge down as much as possible to nearest charger before empty, allow thirty minutes for half charge then repeat every approximately 170 miles and assumed overnight charge was "free" time. Repeat for the next day. That's 4 charges for half an hour (5 charges on the return drive since it's not overnight) to get to Tucson versus 3 10-15 minute gas-ups. No, I don't stop for food on these road trips so no freebies there. I also didn't account for the fact that my average speed on this trip is generally somewhat faster than what the Tesla can sustain for long periods without the battery overheating (as demonstrated on Nurburgring) nor did I ding the Tesla solution for any extra time to get off the interstate and get to the charger since those are probably just single-digit minutes compared to the gas stations. This very basic analysis was all about time and only time.
I did see that Tesla is using new motors that extend their range about 10% on the new models.
Those two hours once a year outweigh every other part of owning a full electric so heavily that it's not even in the realm of a possibility?
Actually, the only part of owning a full electric at this time that was even remotely interesting was seeing what effect it had on this road trip. Other, longer road trips into the wilds would be even worse but this one seemed to be an easy check given the plethora of Supercharger stations on the route and the fact that the hotel at the end was also a Supercharger. If I had enough room in the garage for a dedicated commute-only car (and budget for same), it would be a different question. If I was still living in Hawaii where a "road trip" is going from Hawaii Kai to the North Shore, definitely a different question. If I had kids and was doing a more leisurely road trip like my family did 40 years, different question.
We've had these discussions in the other thread and I'm not panning Teslas or other electric vehicles across the board. Just offering a data point because I actually did look at it and even thought about talking to my cousin about it during our family vacation this summer (he's a regional sales manager for Tesla). As I said, Porsche's design cuts down the charge time and improves the range to the point of being nearly equivalent to traditional gas-ups which makes it more viable for my kind of road trip. I'm kind of looking forward to the prospect of a used Taycan sometime in the future. Just not now with the present configurations and logistics.
I was sleepy last night... used the word probably. In fact it was a 3.5L v8 that lotus developed.
The Elise, exige, and evoque use Toyota engines.
However, they all used Lucas wire smoke.
When I was senior in high school , I wanted to buy a Lotus v8 turbo version of Esprit Turbo. Sadly myself was a highschool student with no cash.
1 cool facts. During the 90s Lotus Elan was basically hhad Kia badge.
I found out when I watch one of K-drama during 90s.
"Why is there so many Lotus Elan in Seoul?"
I was replied by my car friend with
"You idiot! That is Kia."
.......
https://www.autotrader.com/car-news/kia-elan-was-lotus-sold-kia-262929
Deleted. I didn't mean for it to sound condescending but reading it back it could have been taken that way.
Tier 1 Ar15.....here I come......
I'll try this again now that I've got a little more time to invest on a response. Your posts about this topic tend to contain a lot of misinformation and assumptions that are difficult to address each assumption in a proper manner w/o long-winded responses so I'll try to keep this succinct while addressing each of your points....
It doesn't really take much of a planner. I looked at where the locations for Superchargers were. Since the route is pretty simple, I-25 south to Hatch, cross over through NM to I-10 then west to Tucson, I allowed for burning the first full charge down as much as possible to nearest charger before empty, allow thirty minutes for half charge then repeat every approximately 170 miles and assumed overnight charge was "free" time. Repeat for the next day. That's 4 charges for half an hour (5 charges on the return drive since it's not overnight) to get to Tucson versus 3 10-15 minute gas-ups. No, I don't stop for food on these road trips so no freebies there. I also didn't account for the fact that my average speed on this trip is generally somewhat faster than what the Tesla can sustain for long periods without the battery overheating (as demonstrated on Nurburgring) nor did I ding the Tesla solution for any extra time to get off the interstate and get to the charger since those are probably just single-digit minutes compared to the gas stations. This very basic analysis was all about time and only time.
You've drawn a lot of conclusions based on assumptions which are never solid decisions.
Take the time to play around with either Tesla Trip Planner, A Better Route Planner or (ideally) both. You really need to get a "feel" for how EVs work before you make the absolute decision that they're just not for you based on assumptions and guesses. Up front I want to get out the point that your situation isn't even 1% it's more like a 0.000001% situation when compared against miles cars are used by the average driver. That being said, I'm not ready to firmly say "yeah, your situation is impossible with an EV" because I don't believe that's the case. In fact, I believe that if you're more flexible with some aspects of your trip your end result will actually be a more enjoyable trip. All we're talking about is #'s on paper and we haven't addressed the most important aspects of the trip which are how do you feel at the end of your trip? I can tell you that long road trips in an EV are significantly less taxing on your CNS. In an ICE vehicle you don't even realize how tired and wore out you are from the vibrations and sounds until you do so in an EV and log a full day of driving. This has to translate into safer operation when your senses aren't fried. Which brings up another important point; safety. How safe are you during said trip? In a Tesla w/Autopilot you're less likely to get into an accident despite what the media will have you think over one or two accidents that have happened over millions of miles of autopilot operation. Even if you get into an accident (which is less likely as I just mentioned) you are substantially less likely to get injured in said accident according to the NHSTA's results of their "Probability of Injury" test done for every vehicle manufacturer. The three Tesla vehicles blew every other manufacturer out of the water in this very important test of safety. Did I mention that your trip will either be substantially less expensive or possibly even free depending on the EV you choose?
Those all seem like pretty solid reasons to put forth the effort to see if it's something that will actually work for you and not just guess and make assumptions based on aging information you received in the past or FUD from outlets trying to drive clicks with headlines.
Basing your entire driving experience on a 0.000001% situation doesn't seem like the best way to go about things. If I did that I would be driving a dump truck everywhere for the once a year I need to move several tons of landscaping rock. Wouldn't it make more sense to have a vehicle that does the 99.99999% stuff better and just break up my loads into smaller bites the one time I need to complete that task? Knowing & understanding the limitations of the tool can certainly make use of that tool better versus trying to force it outside of it's design.
As far as Tesla cars not being able to sustain higher speeds for longer duration I call BS. I personally have exceeded the speed limit across I80 for massive portions (almost the entire time from Sparks, NV to Cheyenne, WY but won't get into specifics for legality reasons) and the car behaved flawlessly. There is also a well-known YouTuber that did a similar experiment over numerous trips across Finland to find the most efficient speed for Teslas and it was actually into the triple digits. I think this is yet another example of "I heard something once so therefore it must be true across all situations and all vehicles" which simply isn't the case. Even if it were true, if you want to base your entire 99.99999% of driving based on the off-chance you might end up on the Nurburgring then go right ahead and live with a race-prepped Nissan GTR the other 99.99999% of your driving.
Would you use a screwdriver if you were a roofer to drive nails just because one time you were replacing a roof and the owner had a weather station that required a Philips screwdriver to take out three screws to move it out of the way?
I did see that Tesla is using new motors that extend their range about 10% on the new models.
The important part of this is that there wasn't even a technology breakthrough to achieve this. They're simply putting the newer motor from the Model 3 they started building years ago into a car that was designed 7 years ago. 10% range increase and it's not even a recent advancement. Think about that for a minute because it's an important point: No other manufacturer has built a car yet that can compete with Tesla's Model S that was designed and built 7 years ago. I've heard for years of all of these "Tesla Killers" coming "soon" and it's now April of 2019 and we don't even have one that remotely competes with Tesla's 7 year old car in terms of range, performance and charging capability.
Actually, the only part of owning a full electric at this time that was even remotely interesting was seeing what effect it had on this road trip. Other, longer road trips into the wilds would be even worse but this one seemed to be an easy check given the plethora of Supercharger stations on the route and the fact that the hotel at the end was also a Supercharger. If I had enough room in the garage for a dedicated commute-only car (and budget for same), it would be a different question. If I was still living in Hawaii where a "road trip" is going from Hawaii Kai to the North Shore, definitely a different question. If I had kids and was doing a more leisurely road trip like my family did 40 years, different question.
We've had these discussions in the other thread and I'm not panning Teslas or other electric vehicles across the board. Just offering a data point because I actually did look at it and even thought about talking to my cousin about it during our family vacation this summer (he's a regional sales manager for Tesla). As I said, Porsche's design cuts down the charge time and improves the range to the point of being nearly equivalent to traditional gas-ups which makes it more viable for my kind of road trip. I'm kind of looking forward to the prospect of a used Taycan sometime in the future. Just not now with the present configurations and logistics.
"Porsche's design" doesn't exist. Period. I'm not debating vaporware because it's a fools chore. Yet you talk about it like it's the pinnacle of EVs for you so let's dissect the numbers, shall we? You want to discuss their "800v charge system" like it's a thing and it isn't. Besides, voltage is only part of the equation. Porsche claims 250 miles of range in only 15 minutes which, by my math, is about 1,000 miles per hour charge rate. Tesla's v3 Supercharging is doing 1,000 miles per hour charge rate on Model 3's right now. Today. In a car you can buy and a Supercharger you can plug into in the real world as a consumer. Porsche claims 280-310 miles of range and we've seen lately how that equates in the real world (*cough*e-tron*cough*) so it likely won't even reach those numbers. The Model 3 gets 325 miles of range. Help me understand what it is about this vaporware Porsche that will usher in the EV era for you that isn't already available today.
This idea that you need a 2nd car for "serious" driving and use an EV for local commuting only is based on poor information or incredibly out-of-date information. We're not talking about Nissan Leaf EVs here with 80 miles of range under perfect conditions and no Supercharger network.
You appear to be a victim of confirmation bias and nothing I add to this conversation is going to make you understand that exactly what you describe is entirely possible. It could potentially be made even better but you don't want to believe it is and therefore nothing can sway you. I'm tempted to get in my car right now and drive to Tuscon and chronicle the entire journey to show you it's not only possible but will be a safer, less expensive and more enjoyable trip but it's pointless. Countless videos like this already exist online. If you truly cared you would have already found them rather than looking for all the reasons it's not possible. I mean, if you're not even committed enough to giving it a fair chance to "talk to your cousin about it" at any point during your family vacation then I'm not sure you're very committed to giving it a fair and unbiased consideration at all.
Jer,
What I want to know is there an independent mechanic network for EVs out of warranty. I heard tesla is horrible supporting second hand cars.
ChickNorris
04-25-2019, 10:29
When I was senior in high school , I wanted to buy a Lotus v8 turbo version of Esprit Turbo. Sadly myself was a highschool student with no cash.
1 cool facts. During the 90s Lotus Elan was basically hhad Kia badge.
I found out when I watch one of K-drama during 90s.
"Why is there so many Lotus Elan in Seoul?"
I was replied by my car friend with
"You idiot! That is Kia."
.......
https://www.autotrader.com/car-news/kia-elan-was-lotus-sold-kia-262929
THAT I did not know, thanks. ;-)
Jer,
What I want to know is there an independent mechanic network for EVs out of warranty. I heard tesla is horrible supporting second hand cars.
The information that Tesla doesn't support second hand cars out of warranty is inaccurate. You can buy parts just like a Toyota. Hell, a guy I know bought an upgraded LTE radio/GSM card for his and even installed it himself.... using the instructions Tesla gave him when he asked. There was a time when they didn't support salvage title vehicles but now there's even a re-certification process where they will inspect a repaired car to make sure it's been repaired properly.
The information that Tesla doesn't support second hand cars out of warranty is inaccurate. You can buy parts just like a Toyota. Hell, a guy I know bought an upgraded LTE radio/GSM card for his and even installed it himself.... using the instructions Tesla gave him when he asked. There was a time when they didn't support salvage title vehicles but now there's even a re-certification process where they will inspect a repaired car to make sure it's been repaired properly.
For a hefty fee of course.
Gotta' do something to try and recover the $1.5B in cash they burned in Q1.
Gotta' do something to try and recover the $1.5B in cash they burned in Q1.
No worries.
South African Emperor Elon just need to go "Oh, Model 4? Model 5 under $25k?" and those TSLA FANTARD will go LONG.
Few weeks later, they will dilute on fantards' ass.
Aloha_Shooter
04-27-2019, 09:02
I'll try this again now that I've got a little more time to invest on a response. Your posts about this topic tend to contain a lot of misinformation and assumptions that are difficult to address each assumption in a proper manner w/o long-winded responses so I'll try to keep this succinct while addressing each of your points....
Interesting allegations in that everything I've posted has come from Tesla itself, Teslarati or other Tesla fora, or EV-oriented websites/fora. Tesla owners themselves have posted the info about not being able to complete the near 13 miles of Nurburgring without going into limp mode. I got the battery overheat diagnosis from one Tesla post but another one attributed it to software settings -- the latter is probably a likely immediate cause in order to prevent the former but I don't know for sure. If it's really software, it's quite likely Tesla will unveil some kind of track mode for the Model S software sometime in the future and Musk has already stated the Model 3 will be more track friendly. I don't drive Nurburgring itself but it models my road trips much more accurately than the drag race some Tesla fanbois allude to when they keep touting Ludicrous Mode.
While your posts are usually based solidly on personal experience or facts, your response below actually has a lot of defensive misinformation and/or misunderstanding of what I posted. I outlined a specific type of road trip that I investigated and concluded the current state of Tesla Model S doesn't meet my requirements for. I gave the vehicle every benefit of doubt that I could but that's not good enough for you because you are SO defensive of your Tesla-love.
You've drawn a lot of conclusions based on assumptions which are never solid decisions.
Take the time to play around with either Tesla Trip Planner, A Better Route Planner or (ideally) both. You really need to get a "feel" for how EVs work before you make the absolute decision that they're just not for you based on assumptions and guesses.
Mmmm ... no, I don't. Tesla themselves and other owners (including yourself) provide the info that says the best way to do a Tesla road trip is to start off at full charge, go to near full-depletion, and do half-charges along the way. That translates to roughly 170 miles between segements and there are Supercharger stations available on the route at roughly those intervals. Tesla themselves provide the figure of 30 minutes for a 170-mile half-charge -- in fact, their planner has stops that are longer than that due to the distances between their recommended stops. That compares to my real world experience of 3 gas stops of 10-15 minutes each to do the trip each direction (and most of my gas stops are closer to 7-10 minutes but I used the 15 minutes for comparison, again, to give the Tesla the benefit of the doubt).
Up front I want to get out the point that your situation isn't even 1% it's more like a 0.000001% situation when compared against miles cars are used by the average driver.
I never said it was. I even said things would be different with a different kind of road trip in mind. However, I outlined the case of enjoying the road while spending as little time meandering on it as possible and outlined the math. You just can't accept that the Tesla is not the right solution in all cases. Specifically, I leave for Tucson at the end of the work day, overnight in NM (I choose Socorro but you can pick another town), and arrive in Tucson in time to grab lunch before checking into my hotel. That gives me 2-3 hours to unpack, get my camera equipment ready, and get my stuff ready for the next conference day before going down to the cocktail hour meet-and-greet and artshow. After the convention, I leave Sunday around 11 or 12 and get back to COS in time to get some sleep before work -- including grabbing a sandwich for lunch at the first gas stop on the way out of Tucson.
That being said, I'm not ready to firmly say "yeah, your situation is impossible with an EV" because I don't believe that's the case. In fact, I believe that if you're more flexible with some aspects of your trip your end result will actually be a more enjoyable trip. All we're talking about is #'s on paper and we haven't addressed the most important aspects of the trip which are how do you feel at the end of your trip?
I can tell you that long road trips in an EV are significantly less taxing on your CNS. In an ICE vehicle you don't even realize how tired and wore out you are from the vibrations and sounds until you do so in an EV and log a full day of driving.
Okay, at this point, you're deviating into fanboi BS. Vibrations from the road itself (especially on I-10 or the cross-over between I-25 and I-10) far FAR outweigh any engine vibrations unless you're driving an ancient or poorly maintained POS. If you don't believe me, log the vibrations on your smartphone and compare. You personally may "feel better" -- the placebo effect is very real for our mental perceptions -- but the physics of your claim is sheer nonsense.
This has to translate into safer operation when your senses aren't fried. Which brings up another important point; safety. How safe are you during said trip? In a Tesla w/Autopilot you're less likely to get into an accident despite what the media will have you think over one or two accidents that have happened over millions of miles of autopilot operation. Even if you get into an accident (which is less likely as I just mentioned) you are substantially less likely to get injured in said accident according to the NHSTA's results of their "Probability of Injury" test done for every vehicle manufacturer. The three Tesla vehicles blew every other manufacturer out of the water in this very important test of safety. Did I mention that your trip will either be substantially less expensive or possibly even free depending on the EV you choose?
Depends on how you calculate the cost. It's pay me now or pay me later. Buying used certainly lowers the pay-me-now factor. I have dealt with coders for decades. I don't trust them enough to let Auto-pilot do the driving for me (assist my driving is a whole other matter). It's VERY analogous to the current situation with the 737MAX aircraft -- experienced pilots have looked at the 2 crashes that caused all the furor and said the fundamental cause was that the pilots let runaway trim get away from them. That's not to say Boeing's software didn't make the situation worse but it shouldn't have got that bad if the pilots were paying attention to their flying in the first place. Auto-pilot does the same thing when driving. IMO, the driver should drive. Audiobooks, radio, whatever, can make the drive easier or more enjoyable but they still need to drive -- or take transportation that has someone else paying attention to what they are doing.
Those all seem like pretty solid reasons to put forth the effort to see if it's something that will actually work for you and not just guess and make assumptions based on aging information you received in the past or FUD from outlets trying to drive clicks with headlines.
Which is exactly what I did. I ran the numbers and in my particular case, they didn't work out. You just refuse to admit there are any cases where ICE beats EV.
Basing your entire driving experience on a 0.000001% situation doesn't seem like the best way to go about things. If I did that I would be driving a dump truck everywhere for the once a year I need to move several tons of landscaping rock. Wouldn't it make more sense to have a vehicle that does the 99.99999% stuff better and just break up my loads into smaller bites the one time I need to complete that task? Knowing & understanding the limitations of the tool can certainly make use of that tool better versus trying to force it outside of it's design.
Altering my driving style and experience in order to justify purchase of a particular vehicle isn't the best way either. As I said, if I had room in the garage for another vehicle (and wanted to make the budget for it), I'd certainly add an EV for commuting. The current generation with the Model S still don't fit my road trip style because of the time required to recharge. Future generations can change that but I have zero interest in the Model 3.
As far as Tesla cars not being able to sustain higher speeds for longer duration I call BS. I personally have exceeded the speed limit across I80 for massive portions (almost the entire time from Sparks, NV to Cheyenne, WY but won't get into specifics for legality reasons) and the car behaved flawlessly. There is also a well-known YouTuber that did a similar experiment over numerous trips across Finland to find the most efficient speed for Teslas and it was actually into the triple digits. I think this is yet another example of "I heard something once so therefore it must be true across all situations and all vehicles" which simply isn't the case. Even if it were true, if you want to base your entire 99.99999% of driving based on the off-chance you might end up on the Nurburgring then go right ahead and live with a race-prepped Nissan GTR the other 99.99999% of your driving.
You can argue with the other Teslarati in that case. They're the one who posted specifics and you can find numerous YouTube videos demonstrating the Model S's inability to complete Nurburgring without going into limp mode (their term, not mine). As I said, I don't drive Nurburgring but it's a better analog to my road trips than a drag race. I have in fact sustained track speeds on these road trips for a considerable length of time past the 8 mins that the Model S seems to be able to. Like you, I won't go into specifics for legal reasons.
Would you use a screwdriver if you were a roofer to drive nails just because one time you were replacing a roof and the owner had a weather station that required a Philips screwdriver to take out three screws to move it out of the way?
Again, now you're just deviating into fanboi nonsense.
The important part of this is that there wasn't even a technology breakthrough to achieve this. They're simply putting the newer motor from the Model 3 they started building years ago into a car that was designed 7 years ago. 10% range increase and it's not even a recent advancement. Think about that for a minute because it's an important point: No other manufacturer has built a car yet that can compete with Tesla's Model S that was designed and built 7 years ago. I've heard for years of all of these "Tesla Killers" coming "soon" and it's now April of 2019 and we don't even have one that remotely competes with Tesla's 7 year old car in terms of range, performance and charging capability.
Ummmm ... no. The Taycan has gone through years of testing, including driving at (and completing) Nurburgring. It uses a lot of the data and knowledge Porsche gleaned from the 919 hybrid. It's not vaporware, they start production this summer and doubled their anticipated production from 20,000 to 40,000 in the first year due to the demand. They just didn't bother going into production until they were sure it was what they knew Porsche drivers would expect from the get go and they built a brand new factory for it so had to wait for that to finish. I believe the P100D and maybe even the P90D has a longer range from full charge but the Taycan will have much quicker charging so is more suitable for long distance road trips.
"Porsche's design" doesn't exist. Period. I'm not debating vaporware because it's a fools chore. Yet you talk about it like it's the pinnacle of EVs for you so let's dissect the numbers, shall we? You want to discuss their "800v charge system" like it's a thing and it isn't. Besides, voltage is only part of the equation. Porsche claims 250 miles of range in only 15 minutes which, by my math, is about 1,000 miles per hour charge rate. Tesla's v3 Supercharging is doing 1,000 miles per hour charge rate on Model 3's right now. Today. In a car you can buy and a Supercharger you can plug into in the real world as a consumer. Porsche claims 280-310 miles of range and we've seen lately how that equates in the real world (*cough*e-tron*cough*) so it likely won't even reach those numbers. The Model 3 gets 325 miles of range. Help me understand what it is about this vaporware Porsche that will usher in the EV era for you that isn't already available today.
Again, fanboi nonsense. Porsche's design is real hardware. I expect some first year issues as with any new model but it's real. What doesn't exist (yet) is the Ultracharger network. That's getting built out and it will probably take as much time to build out as Tesla's Supercharger network has.
This idea that you need a 2nd car for "serious" driving and use an EV for local commuting only is based on poor information or incredibly out-of-date information. We're not talking about Nissan Leaf EVs here with 80 miles of range under perfect conditions and no Supercharger network.
Again, fanboi nonsense. I need the 1st car for serious driving. The EV would be the second car (actually, third) until it's able to meet the all the needs for the first or second vehicles do. When they do, I'm certainly open to replacing my current vehicles with one that meets the road trip and/or camping capabilities of the other two.
You appear to be a victim of confirmation bias
Hahahaha ... pot, meet kettle.
and nothing I add to this conversation is going to make you understand that exactly what you describe is entirely possible. It could potentially be made even better but you don't want to believe it is and therefore nothing can sway you. I'm tempted to get in my car right now and drive to Tuscon and chronicle the entire journey to show you it's not only possible but will be a safer, less expensive and more enjoyable trip but it's pointless. Countless videos like this already exist online. If you truly cared you would have already found them rather than looking for all the reasons it's not possible. I mean, if you're not even committed enough to giving it a fair chance to "talk to your cousin about it" at any point during your family vacation then I'm not sure you're very committed to giving it a fair and unbiased consideration at all.
Mmmm ... no, you fail to read or comprehend because you can't accept that Tesla isn't the solution to everything. I don't drive the fun car in hail (willingly) or when there's 1.5+ inches of snow out. I don't try to haul cargo with it. I don't attempt to speed with the Expedition. No vehicle designed is good everything. You are perfectly welcome to drive to Tucson if you want and you will probably enjoy it. However, my scenario is pretty specific: leave COS at the end of the work day, overnight in NM, and arrive in western Tucson just after lunch. Depart Tucson near noon and get back to COS in time to get some sleep before work. How much time you spend in Tucson is up to you (SpaceFest is 3 days). Adding 2+ hours to the actual road time on the way down wouldn't really be so bad but adding it to the return pushes a one day long haul into two days or requires leaving earlier (thereby missing some events). I never said that was representative of everyone's experience or driving desires (it's also not the only scenario but that's a different story), I said this is a trip I do annually, I honestly investigated the Tesla Model S when I looked at the current extent of the Supercharger network and the numbers just don't work at this time. I allowed for the fact that some time in the future, some EV probably will but you just can't accept the fact the Model S isn't some kind of panacea. I gave it a fair chance but the numbers just don't support doing the trip the way I like to do it ... I may still talk to my cousin about whether he can arrange some kind of road trip loaner but I doubt he can and by the numbers, I'd still have to alter the trip significantly to make it work.
Jer,
What I want to know is there an independent mechanic network for EVs out of warranty. I heard tesla is horrible supporting second hand cars.
Yup. As I mention in the past about the same issue and on richrebuilds.
We all know how to read todays news and new info on forums on anything.
And I agree with you.
Published by CNBC TODAY (NOT 10 FUKING YEARS AGO)
[LOL]
Over the years, Benoit said, followers increasingly reached out asking where to get a good deal on a spare part, or offering to pay him to fix their cars when Tesla service centers couldn?t or wouldn?t do so.
In the winter of 2018, Benoit partnered with a former parts manager for Tesla, Chris Salvo, to open up their own repair shop. Salvo is also the founder of EV Tuning, an online store that sells parts and accessories to electric vehicle owners.
While they have both been holding down day jobs, this spring they broke ground on their Electrified Garage in Seabrook, New Hampshire.
?I was never thinking of opening my own shop,? Benoit said. ?But I?d been denied so many times by Tesla that I really started thinking there?s got to be a bigger picture here, another player who can help others and get parts as well. Now there?s a place where people can go for third-party EV repair.?
Their typical customers own Model S cars out of warranty, or Model 3′s with after-market parts that have negated their warranties so they can?t get Tesla do work for them, according to Benoit and Salvo.
https://www.cnbc.com/2019/04/26/tesla-rebuilder-owner-of-rich-rebuilds-youtube-channel-opening-shop.html
BushMasterBoy
04-27-2019, 10:56
Teslas are a rich boys toys. I'm sticking with Fords & Chevys. My dream car if I won the lottery would be the new 2019 Corvette. USA made mid engine with a manual transmission. Runs on dinosaur blood...
https://www.cars.com/research/chevrolet-corvette-2019/
Audi update. Clutch and flywheel are in trans. Pilot bearing is R and R. Trans under car, need to get ut on trans jack next, and get it in place.
Then ince I torque and angle the trans in there is the odd bits, driveshaft and exhaust.
Going to take a break and recharge while walking the dog.
Then back to it.
Teslas are a rich boys toys. I'm sticking with Fords & Chevys. My dream car if I won the lottery would be the new 2019 Corvette. USA made mid engine with a manual transmission. Runs on dinosaur blood...
https://www.cars.com/research/chevrolet-corvette-2019/
While admittedly, I like my Vettes, the new 2019 looks like something I'd expect batman to be driving (esp when black). Maybe that's your cup of tea, but I do like their older styling better.
BushMasterBoy
04-27-2019, 14:53
Mid engine balances the weight on all four wheels. 1974 454 Corvette is cool too. Turbo'd with a cup of ice tea...
I saw a 1993+ Toyota Supra Turbo.
Another classic.
I couldn't take a photo of the vehicle. Saw it near Walmart 120th (near Jax and Canes)
Well I did the DIY ceramic coating this weekend. It's time consuming but not difficult. Time will tell how it does for cleaning but so far very smooth and definitely added another level of shine.
Well I did the DIY ceramic coating this weekend. It's time consuming but not difficult. Time will tell how it does for cleaning but so far very smooth and definitely added another level of shine.
I just watched a youtube video of a long term test of coatings.
Funny how $8 Nu Finish is holding its own with 4 of the Ceramics that have gone over one year.
If I was buying, I'd probably get CQuartz UK 3.0, still 10x the price of Nu Finish.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fznghWNhPzA
I went with the Avalon King since they were running a sale. So far so good for a DIY thing.
Audi update. Front CV joints are in, the cv shirld was a bear. I should have the last trans bolt today. Now its a driveshaft, flywheel bolts, exhaust, 2 x braces and a shirld or two. Almost there.
Audi update. Front CV joints are in, the cv shirld was a bear. I should have the last trans bolt today. Now its a driveshaft, flywheel bolts, exhaust, 2 x braces and a shirld or two. Almost there.
Did I miss the part about installing the new clutch? Did you forget to put the clutch disc in?
ChickNorris
04-30-2019, 08:46
Did I miss the part about installing the new clutch? Did you forget to put the clutch disc in?
Ha!
I was wondering near the same
apparently you don't want to crash your Tesla, because getting it repaired seems to be a major issue.
https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/news/the-thing-about-owning-a-tesla-no-one-talks-about-—-nightmarish-repair-delays/ar-AAAJmmj?ocid=spartandhp
Aloha_Shooter
05-01-2019, 16:24
apparently you don't want to crash your Tesla, because getting it repaired seems to be a major issue.
https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/news/the-thing-about-owning-a-tesla-no-one-talks-about-—-nightmarish-repair-delays/ar-AAAJmmj?ocid=spartandhp
To be fair to them, this appears to be anecdotal and more a function of that body shop lacking certified personnel. I know the article says they also lacked parts but I had a similar issue with Chrysler when someone ran a red light and hit my brand new Sebring (literally less than a week old) just forward of the front axle. As it turned out, the axle needed replacing but all of Chrysler's axles were going into new cars so my car sat at the repair shop all summer long waiting for parts. I think I finally got it back 3.5 months later.
speaking of vehicle repairs, my boss hit a deer last year with his brand new Tacoma(8000 miles), while traveling at about 45 mph, front right quarter, front end, and hood. Totaled it. Makes me scratch my head how that totaled a vehicle, but I guess it mostly has to do with the fact that the air bags deployed and that the cost to replace them all is basically what puts the cost of repair so high.
What's been everyone's experience with hitting deer with an ARB bumper? Still significant damage?
Did I miss the part about installing the new clutch? Did you forget to put the clutch disc in?
Fairly sure its in there. Will know for sure on Friday.
I have been taking my sweet time and going throught this right. Driveshaft in hopefully tonight. Exhaust tomorrow and fluid change. It has been slower than it should be but I keep going back to the manual and geeking out on some things. But a few things are just wierd and take me extra time.
For instance driveshaft. Since it was stuck and had to be spun off now I need to inspect everything, clean up spilled CV joint grease, repack some etc. Audi is also specific about marking locations on driveshaft and diff going back together. Also torque bolt nearest indicator first, but the rust took those off and I had to make some new ones. Still will inspect for tell tale marks and take my sweet ass time. One more day here or there... who cares.
2003 Toyota Sequoia 165,000 miles
2008 Toyota Yaris 120,000 miles
2006 Ford F250 5.4L gas engine 260,000 miles
The Sequoia and F250 combined cost me less than $10k and with regular maintenance and avoiding someone hitting them, I expect they will last me another 5 or more years. The Yaris is the only manual transmission in group and I bought it new as a commuter car. My daughter learned to drive the stick and it is now her car. I will eventually sign it over to her. It is a fun car to drive and should last another 10 years.
I used to work on cars. I never made the transition into electronic cars and eventually lost my ability/interest in fixing cars, although I do my own fluid changes. Some maintenance is easy, and some things are hard. Like most things, I often decide to exchange money for time. The mechanic I normally use is much faster than I could ever be when it comes to most things. I tell myself that I could be faster if I had a lift and $40k in tools, but I am kidding myself. He would still be faster than me: 1. Because he is more competent in this area. 2. He enjoys it more than I do.
I keep reading that by 2030, more than half of the passenger cars on the road will be electric/hybrid. I can't say that I believe this but I can't say that it won't happen either. Since I probably only have another 25 years of regular driving left in my life (after 80, I will probably limit myself to milk runs or leisure cruising) my next vehicle(s) will probably be my last vehicles.
And just like that, within the span of four months, I only have one of the three vehicles listed above.
My daughter got the Yaris when we left Colorado and the F250 was stolen from the work parking lot while I was on my last work trip. It was recovered two days after I left the state and then promptly totaled by my insurance company. I got a bit more than I paid for it, so no complaints, but I never thought I would be this young and down to only one car. I am currently looking at used Prius (Prii?) now that I am back to regular driving in the east coast megolopolis. Of course I don't really need a second car yet as we still haven't found a house, so not having some place to park one vehicle makes it much easier not parking a second vehicle. [Flower]
Life can be quite unpredictable sometimes. I probably should buy a Tesla and then all will be revealed to me. [LOL]
Aloha_Shooter
05-02-2019, 20:10
I probably should buy a Tesla and then all will be revealed to me. [LOL]
You would certainly fit in better with the cool kids in the Unfree State.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Znz3yelWIBk
I can't get enough of these videos.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kRvMK8uNx2Y
Fcp EuRO forgot to send transmission filter
After contacting customer service, they overnighted the filter.
Just spend 10 minutes in wallmart comparing oil qualifications on back of bottles. Mobil 1 and Penzoil Platnium were the only 2 rated per the euro spec level called out in wides car. Went with PP due to some other owners recomending it. Ironically the owner manual calls out castrol edge pro, which is unobtanium. Castrol Edge is not rated to the spec level required, and their website did not specify if it met that level.
Somedays I hate the CDO.
I don't buy all of the oil hype. I have a truck that has had the oil changed religiously about every 10-15K miles with whatever cheap oil is handy and it is going to roll over 260K miles this week.
I don't buy all of the oil hype. I have a truck that has had the oil changed religiously about every 10-15K miles with whatever cheap oil is handy and it is going to roll over 260K miles this week.
I use dino oil in my truck (Rotella T) but it sees few miles and gets an oil change twice a year on time alone. Once going tinto towing season in the summer, once coming out. I only put on about 5-6K/year.
I have used Mobil-1 in my bi-turbo A6 2.7T since day 1, changed every 7-10K. That's the spec'd oil. Didn't keep it from losing a turbo, but it's also chipped and the factory K03's already run on the ragged edge. Turbo did not grenade due to oil issues.
I feel the same, but understand that maybe I just don't know. I buy T6 Rotella for my Amigo, but only because those engines have a known oil eating issue and people on line were saying that T6 burned less than others.
I switched to synthetic, mobil 1, after an oil change in my 05 burb once. The oil coming out was regular and I put some on my fingers. I pushed my fingers together and the used oil lubricated no better thsn water. The next change was the same test with synthwtic, but no matter how hard I pressed my fingers together the oil was slipperry. In short, the synthetics are better imho. Burb and commuter car are both 5w30 so its just easier for me to run same oil in both. Commuter car gets flogged mercilesly so I hope synthetic makes the engine go past 160k. The wifes and kids cars have turbos, so I might have bought into the formulated for turbo cars on the PP oil. The only thing I need to figure out now is if the direct fuel injection engine in the Audi is ok with either PP or Mobil 1.
Brutal, how about a ride?
I can't get enough of these videos.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kRvMK8uNx2Y
...and people say that redneck motorsports can only turn left.
I think I've seen some of those old Jeeps on the road.
Great-Kazoo
05-08-2019, 07:32
IMO Oil changes for me are based on environment. CO i would go 4K with M1 syn in the van, semi syn in the ferd was 3500 and the leetle versa hatchback 4K regular oil. My mc's would get every 3k being rode hard.
Down here with a 60/40 off road in the truck i'm doing 3K, still the same on the other 2. The jeep will be off road so that's a 3k service. Air filters are inspected every 3k. .
If people have concerns about actual oil life and not the color of it, send it out for analysis.
With 3k oil changes you can probably go regular or semi synth. Oil will be dirtier but still be good to go.
Great-Kazoo
05-08-2019, 08:35
With 3k oil changes you can probably go regular or semi synth. Oil will be dirtier but still be good to go.
Some people who go 10K don't change their filter somewhere in between that. I'm old school and with dino still do 3-4k tops. If i ran straight syn that long between changes, i'd do oil filters @ the 5 k mark.
Some people who go 10K don't change their filter somewhere in between that. I'm old school and with dino still do 3-4k tops. If i ran straight syn that long between changes, i'd do oil filters @ the 5 k mark.
I change my filter at every oil change. 10K for the turbo car on M1, twice a year for the CTD on Dino Rotella.
Fuel filter (diesel) once a year. I've seen people go years without changing their fuel filter and they're usually the ones crying about their high pressure pump taking a shit.
Use a local wrench to maintain the Audi, not even sure WTF he does besides fixing broke shit and oil changes, I trust him to do me right (family friend).
ChadAmberg
05-08-2019, 17:35
Damn dealer service tech idiots that can't even read. 9 months ago got a 150k "change all my fluids" service to reset the clock on everything. Just long enough later that I didn't think it was related, started getting a low speed vibration on the truck, mostly when turning like pulling out of the driveway. Been annoying trying to figure it out. Wheel bearing? U-Joints? Something even more expensive and pain in the ass?
Took a chance today and completely redrained and filled the rear diff, making sure to use the right oil. And it's now running smooth as silk again.
Seems that when they changed out the oil in the rear differential, the dealer service tech didn't know that my Tacoma Sport came with a limited slip differential, and needed the friction modifier added, even though they work on how many Tacomas each day? I mean, the big f*cking sticker about an inch away from the fill hole, only tells them the right stuff to use even.
With all of this talk about oil I can?t be the only one wondering how often Jer changes his in the Tesla.
I just did the 722.9 Transmission service.
It was horrible.
1. damn gasket moved un-noticeably little while installing. I already put the fluid in. Had to take the pan out laying upside-down, while fluid was in there. Reinsert the pan, and screw that while holding the pan w/ 4-5qt of ATF134. Spilled some on my face, and my hair.
2. They pan screw needed to be set at 4N-m (35in-lb or 4ft-lb) of torque. The damn screw broke twice while installing w/ torque wrench. It was made to break even little bit more of a torque (known to break even at slightly higher torque part # ELR-896000).
I had to use 2 previous screws.
3. The cheap OBD II reader would NOT read the ATF temperatures. It had to be at 45C to see the correct volume of the fluid. So, I had to goto Harbor Freight tools and had to get an infrared temp reader.
4. I had to fill (and refill) under the vehicle while car was running. Glad that my arm didn't get burned by exhaust or catalytic.
5. I had to shampoo my hair 3 times after the job was done. Each 3 times, I had to let shampoo stay on my hair for about 2-3min each.
OtterbatHellcat
05-11-2019, 01:52
Welcome to tasting/wearing automotive fluids and/or caustic cleaners.
It gets much more fun when it happens at operating temperature. :)
FYI- 4Nm does equal about 35 inch lbs.
35 inch lbs does not equal 4 ft lbs.
35 inch pounds is less than half a foot pound of torque.
If you were tightening those little bolts to 4 ft lbs you were going about 8x over specs.
Sorry. Early morning math sucks.
Still, 4Nm doesn?t equate to 4 ft lbs no matter how the math works.
If you were torqueing those little fasteners to 4Nm or 35 inch lbs you were golden. If you were going with 4 ft lbs then that?s likely why a couple of them broke.
4Nm is tiny. I think the gun scope torque wrench goes that low.
35 inlb is about right.
And the oil at temp thing is anoying no matter what.
SideShow Bob
05-11-2019, 07:54
I
I just did the 722.9 Transmission service.
It was horrible.
5. I had to shampoo my hair 3 times after the job was done. Each 3 times, I had to let shampoo stay on my hair for about 2-3min each.
[/RANT]
If you were thorough in reading the instructions on the shampoo, it says ? Lather, let stand 5 minutes, rinse and repeat......... [Tooth]
If you were thorough in reading the instructions on the shampoo, it says ? Lather, let stand 5 minutes, rinse and repeat......... [Tooth]
That could waste an entire day in the shower, depending on the size of the bottle.
The dumb transmission in my Amigo has no dipstick and is a bottom fill. Not even a side fill, BOTTOM fill. Thanks GM.
The dumb transmission in my Amigo has no dipstick and is a bottom fill. Not even a side fill, BOTTOM fill. Thanks GM.
Fill location is toward the end of the video.
http://youtu.be/1aFCEOUgdbE
(I checked the Amigo drawings and it's in the same place as the Trooper)
Yep, we learned that working on it parked on a trailer in the desert.
Ah, the Aussie Amigo.
So how does one fill from the bottom? Do they make transmission enema bags?
Pretty much. We bought a handy piece of tube that screws onto common auto fluid bottle thread sizes. Insert tube into hole, get the bottle as high as you can and squeeze, repeat until fluid starts coming back out. Pretty much the same as the side fill on the transfer case (which I also did laying in the dirt) or the differential.
Why on earth would they make a bottom fill anything.
Why on earth would they make a bottom fill anything.
Because the hot shot know it all junior engineers want to be managers before they know jack shit about engineering and design. And then approve crap like this. And now instead of a salty bastard that gets things right you get a know it all that missed the fact your trans lacks a fill port.
Pretty much. We bought a handy piece of tube that screws onto common auto fluid bottle thread sizes. Insert tube into hole, get the bottle as high as you can and squeeze, repeat until fluid starts coming back out. Pretty much the same as the side fill on the transfer case (which I also did laying in the dirt) or the differential.
The fluid pump/ATF jug shown in the video, or a real multi-use one, are necessary if you're going to work on stuff. That fluid pump is also needed to fill diff's or it can be a real bitch and waste fluid. It doesn't hurt to have a fluid extraction vacuum pump either.
Just don't buy the one they sell at Harbor Freight that attaches to a drill because it's junk and doesn't work.
Absolutely nothing worse than 90 weight gear oil in your hair. You can wash it 100 times and still be smelling it for days...
ChickNorris
05-11-2019, 11:47
Absolutely nothing worse than 90 weight gear oil in your hair. You can wash it 100 times and still be smelling it for days...
Noxzema original cream works pretty well & you still have hair when you're done.
Sorry. Early morning math sucks.
Still, 4Nm doesn?t equate to 4 ft lbs no matter how the math works.
If you were torqueing those little fasteners to 4Nm or 35 inch lbs you were golden. If you were going with 4 ft lbs then that?s likely why a couple of them broke.
4Nm is tiny. I think the gun scope torque wrench goes that low.
35 inlb is about right.
And the oil at temp thing is anoying no matter what.
Yeah, sorry, not 4ft-lb. but 4N-m or 35in-lb.
My torque wrench is in-lb, and it had to be taped because the darn adjuster keep sliding.
I
If you were thorough in reading the instructions on the shampoo, it says ? Lather, let stand 5 minutes, rinse and repeat......... [Tooth]
That could waste an entire day in the shower, depending on the size of the bottle.
I am probably going to take shower again, because my mother is coming again from Aurora, due to small leak.
Had to go all the way to Brighton NAPA to buy 2qt of this FEBI bilstein fluid. :(
Absolutely nothing worse than 90 weight gear oil in your hair. You can wash it 100 times and still be smelling it for days...
I did a differential on both car at once about month back. The 75W-140 FM smell is still stinking the garage.
If this stuff gets on, it will be an unwated cologne for a week. :D
So how does one fill from the bottom?
Just get the car to sit on a bottle of fluid.
Great-Kazoo
05-11-2019, 17:07
I just did the 722.9 Transmission service.
It was horrible.
1. damn gasket moved un-noticeably little while installing.
next time try a light (very light film of grease) to keep the gasket on the transmission itself. This allows you to see position of gasket and not fight it and the pan while reinstalling.
The bolt was screwed with much less torque So, I had to tighten it little bit more with torque screw (this time it is taped) and filled 1.5qt
https://i.imgur.com/P12FNzP.jpg?1
1. Had to take the under carriage out before doing anything.
https://i.imgur.com/wCCcZkc.jpg?1
2. As you see, torque wrench is now taped, because it needed to be screwed at very low torque 4Nm. Lock won't stay well with this low setting. (Cheap torque wrench)
https://i.imgur.com/jD4MPqH.jpg?1
3. Filler bolt I had to spend $17 on. :(
https://i.imgur.com/IDbE6Xt.jpg?1
4. After hearing about scary story on this thread, I backed it up with jack stand on AND Jack.
https://i.imgur.com/25GfjT7.jpg?1
5. Transmission was too hot, so I had to wait till it goes down to 45C.
https://i.imgur.com/SW39Frf.jpg?1
6. While waiting it to cool down, I spend time aerating the lawn.
https://i.imgur.com/7N1dT2Z.jpg?1
7. Bought this at Lowes 10-11 years ago for about $7 +/-. One of the best investment for the lawn.
https://i.imgur.com/ZMGJDAu.jpg?1
8a. Start pumping the transmission fluid in.
https://i.imgur.com/GtVAKEd.jpg?1
8b. Harbor freight fluid pump worked well.
I will use the rifle cleaning rod and clean out the hose.
next time try a light (very light film of grease) to keep the gasket on the transmission itself. This allows you to see position of gasket and not fight it and the pan while reinstalling.
It would've been easier if I did that. Thanks to the tip.
Some people had common complaint on gasket and 4Nm torque.
https://i.imgur.com/BZjV4wB.jpg?1
It would've been easier if I did that. Thanks to the tip.
Some people had common complaint on gasket and 4Nm torque.
https://i.imgur.com/BZjV4wB.jpg?1
Next time ( ha ha) use the 4Nm as a reason to buy the scope torque screwdriver. Those suckers go up to 60 in lb I think. [emoji106]
ChickNorris
05-11-2019, 19:48
Just get the car to sit on a bottle of fluid.
That's funny
Probably let those get a little dirtier than id like. But all new now
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190515/077c0194a500dc5f1a8d92eb4651908e.jpg
Anyone have a code reader that will reset a check engine light?. I blew a charge pipe and set it off. All fixed now but it saved the code and apparently autozone policy won't let them turn them off anymore. Dealer wants wwaayyyy too much to reset it.
Just disconnect the battery for a bit
Just disconnect the battery for a bit
That only works for pre-OBDII stuff.
Found one on Amazon for about $35. Guess it would be a good thing to have so I'll just order it
That only works for pre-OBDII stuff.
Works perfectly fine on my vehicles. All have OBD2
All of my stuff the code just comes right back.
I have one if you can wait a day, it's at home and I'm at work. I also have a bluetooth gizmo that will allow you to do the same thing with your phone, I think it was 7 bucks on Ebay...
All of my stuff the code just comes right back.
If the fault is current it will still show up. Pulling a battery cable even on OBDII should clear the light assuming it isn?t a currently active fault.
Thanks. I found one im using today but I'll probably still order one for future use. Yea I fixed the issue so should clear permanently
I?ve got one of the cheap little readers. Used to use it quite a bit when the kids were living at home and driving crappy vehicles. Now it pretty much just sits in the toolbox.
I?ve been meaning to grab it and see why the check engine light comes on religiously under heavy acceleration in my company truck. Just keep forgetting because I pretty much don?t really care. It only stays on for a day or two and then goes off until the next time I have to pass somebody.
I?ve got one of the cheap little readers. Used to use it quite a bit when the kids were living at home and driving crappy vehicles. Now it pretty much just sits in the toolbox.
I?ve been meaning to grab it and see why the check engine light comes on religiously under heavy acceleration in my company truck. Just keep forgetting because I pretty much don?t really care. It only stays on for a day or two and then goes off until the next time I have to pass somebody.
gas truck?
coil packs like to misfire under load/rpm.
Yeah. Gas truck. Crappy Ford. Doesn?t feel like anything is miss firing but who knows. It only has 260K miles so it should still run like new.
Does it rattle like a diesel at idle?
Ha. No. It?s honestly a really good truck. Smooth riding and driving and goes straight down the road with no squeaks or rattles.
I mentioned this on the forum to someone but, Autel AL391 does most of basic stuff on majority of the vehicles.
Ebay and Amazon has it under 28 now and most of Walmart had it in stock for 30ish.
However it doesnt read transmission temp reading.
Read the email Elon Musk sent to Tesla employees calling for 'hardcore' control of expenses (https://www.msn.com/en-us/money/companies/read-the-email-elon-musk-sent-to-tesla-employees-calling-for-hardcore-control-of-expenses/ar-AABvLuR)
Tesla CEO Elon Musk told employees in a companywide email Thursday that $2 billion in new funds raised this month is enough to get through only 10 months if Tesla keeps spending as it did in the first quarter of 2019. He requested that everyone at the company take "hardcore" measures to pull back on spending.
Bailey Guns
05-20-2019, 13:58
Fuel mileage gets better and better...
https://i.imgur.com/5sWeJsU.jpg
I?ll get you a shot of my wife?s small SUV sometime. 2.0 four cylinder and it gets about 19 mpg.
I had a Ford hybrid rental car last time out. I drove from SEATAC to Olympia, around there for a few days, and back and put in 3 gals. That was with a heavy foot.
TSLA Shorties wet dream.
Tesla shares could drop to $10 in a worst-case scenario, Morgan Stanley says
Elliot Smith | @ElliotSmithCNBC
https://www.cnbc.com/amp/2019/05/21/morgan-stanley-tesla-shares-could-drop-to-10-in-worst-case-scenario.html
hurley842002
05-21-2019, 06:59
Fuel mileage gets better and better...
https://i.imgur.com/5sWeJsU.jpg
Every time you post about that car I want one more and more. A diesel Cruze, and a diesel ZR2 Colorado would be about the perfect combo.
Great-Kazoo
05-21-2019, 07:17
I?ll get you a shot of my wife?s small SUV sometime. 2.0 four cylinder and it gets about 19 mpg.
with 99.5K our 1.2L versa hatchback gets 22 around town and close to 35 on the hwy. That's with me driving it ;)
with 99.5K our 1.2L versa hatchback gets 22 around town and close to 35 on the hwy. That's with me driving it ;)
I'd ask if you have a lead foot, but I suppose it's probably a polymer of some sort.
You have to let us know the actual mileage of that tank though. My dash computer always has high hopes for my driving in the beginning and then is off by more than 100 miles.
Bailey Guns
05-21-2019, 07:37
It'll be way off if I drive in town more. Mileage drops from 50-55 (or even higher) on the highway down to mid-30s in town. Mid-30s isn't bad, but it's not much better than a lot of gas cars. This car really shines on the highway.
2013 Town and Country To and from Pueblo pulling a light trailer with fishing kayak and stuff at 83 MPH . 21 MPG is the norm.
I don't have to dodge pot holes to save my back or kidneys.
GM and Fiat Chrysler unmasked as Tesla's secret source of cash (https://www.msn.com/en-us/money/companies/gm-and-fiat-chrysler-unmasked-as-teslas-secret-source-of-cash/ar-AACki8x)
Nifty little game that the government helped setup, and Tesla still can't make money.
For years, Tesla has hauled in revenue by selling credits to other carmakers that needed to offset sales of polluting vehicles to U.S. consumers. These sorts of transactions have largely been shrouded in secrecy -- until now.
General Motors and Fiat Chrysler Automobiles disclosed to the state of Delaware earlier this year that they reached agreements to buy federal greenhouse gas credits from Tesla. While the filings are light on detail, they haven't been reported on previously. They also represent the first acknowledgments from carmakers that they're turning to Tesla for help to comply with intensifying U.S. environmental regulations.
Tesla has generated almost $2 billion in revenue from selling regulatory credits since 2010. Its home state of California has a mandate that requires carmakers to sell zero-emission vehicles, or ZEVs, in proportion to their share of the state's auto market, which is the largest in the country.
If manufacturers don't sell enough non-polluting vehicles, they have to purchase credits from competitors like Tesla to make up the difference. A similar credit system is administered at the federal level by the EPA and National Highway Traffic Safety Administration.
GM's credit purchases illustrate how challenging the U.S. fuel efficiency requirements are getting, even for automakers that are adding more zero-emission vehicles to their lineup. In March, Chief Executive Officer Mary Barra announced the company would spend $300 million and add 400 workers at its plant north of Detroit where the Chevy Bolt is built to add production of another fully electric model.
While all automakers complied with U.S. rules in model year 2017, most large manufacturers cashed in credits to get there, the EPA said in a March report. Of all the credits held by the industry at end of the 2017 model year, more than 90% are set to expire at the end of 2021 if not used, according to the agency.
While Tesla's sales of regulatory credits have been limited to the U.S. and California, it also has opportunities ahead to generate revenue from Europe, which is implementing tougher emissions regulations. In April, Fiat Chrysler said it will pool its fleet with Tesla's to comply with European Union standards.
During a call with prospective investors in Tesla's offerings of new equity and convertible bonds earlier this month, Chief Financial Officer Zachary Kirkhorn said credit sales will be a more meaningful part of Tesla's business in the coming years.
In addition to reporting $216 million in first-quarter revenue from the sale of regulatory credits, the carmaker disclosed in an April filing that it had booked $140 million in deferred revenue related to credit sales.
It's unclear from the filing whether that revenue relates to the U.S. agreements that Tesla reached with GM and Fiat Chrysler, or the EU deal with Fiat Chrysler. Tesla hasn't reported deferred revenue of credits in past quarterly or annual financial filings.
Bailey Guns
06-06-2019, 16:40
GM says new all electric pickup will sell for "average" price. Considering that might be north of $50 or $60 thousand, that doesn't sound too impressive.
https://www.foxnews.com/auto/gm-president-reconfirms-electric-pickup-says-companys-evs-will-sell-for-average-prices
I like the little survey that says pretty much 75% of people wouldn?t buy an electric vehicle from GM. I guess they?re targeting a small market.
BushMasterBoy
06-06-2019, 18:05
Electric Harley only $30K
https://www.harley-davidson.com/us/en/motorcycles/future-vehicles/livewire.html
I like the little survey that says pretty much 75% of people wouldn?t buy an electric vehicle from GM. I guess they?re targeting a small market.
They've got to fix the range/re-charge issues before they'll go mainstream.
My van is getting up there in mileage. I'm going to keep it for as long as I can, but I'm considering trying to move to something in the 1500 size range.
I'm thinking about maybe a Chevy Tahoe. What can you tell me about those vehicles? To be more specific, I'm not going to spend more than $10,000 on a vehicle, so I'm probably looking at 10-15 year old vehicles. Just throwing the idea around and wanted to see what the hive mind thinks.
I think you?d look sexy in a 4Runner.
I'm thinking about maybe a Chevy Tahoe. What can you tell me about those vehicles? To be more specific, I'm not going to spend more than $10,000 on a vehicle, so I'm probably looking at 10-15 year old vehicles. Just throwing the idea around and wanted to see what the hive mind thinks.
Might have been a bit older than one you're looking for, but my last Tahoe was a 2003 (had 4 Tahoes total). I got rid of it in 2015. There was a known problem with the instrument cluster and it was replaced by the mfr. after standard warranty had expired. Had interior electrical issues with heated seats, dash lighting, rear wiper, and eventually the ABS brakes (ABS issue convinced me to get rid of it).
Fuel economy was garbage. The 5.3L V8 is pretty much bullet-proof, but is also a bit underpowered. Brake life was great and I love the form-factor. They drive smaller than they look with a good turning radius.
Wanted to get a newer one with the 6.2L V8, but they've become outrageously expensive.
I'm happy with a Chrysler Mini Van. Fold the seats down and haul stuff or take a nap.
Its been on more dirt roads then many SUV's and the suspension has held up. 130K changed the shocks at 100K
I didn't give much info for what I wanted out of a vehicle, and that's because I don't yet know. Thanks for the responses so far.
I love my Caravan, and it's probably still more ideal for work than a Tahoe just based on mileage alone. I've gotten my van stuck in mud twice, and recently had to take at least an hour detour in order to avoid being stuck again. I was thinking that if my next daily is in the 1500 range that I could at least have a decent tow vehicle and something with 4WD for those times I have to go to off-road places.
However, with how expensive trucks are, I'd have to get like a 2003-2008 Tahoe to stay under $10k. My van is a 2011, and a buddy just bought a newer, nicer, and lower mileage Caravan for the same price I paid for mine a few years ago.
My real issue is space I guess. Ideally I'd have my work vehicle, my off-road/camping/hunting vehicle, and then something with which to tow.
If I were smart I'd combine the tow vehicle with the off-road vehicle. I'll probably just do that. Lot's more thinking to do. Trying to get at least another 25k out of my van if I can.
Great-Kazoo
06-07-2019, 07:42
I didn't give much info for what I wanted out of a vehicle, and that's because I don't yet know. Thanks for the responses so far.
I love my Caravan, and it's probably still more ideal for work than a Tahoe just based on mileage alone. I've gotten my van stuck in mud twice, and recently had to take at least an hour detour in order to avoid being stuck again. I was thinking that if my next daily is in the 1500 range that I could at least have a decent tow vehicle and something with 4WD for those times I have to go to off-road places.
However, with how expensive trucks are, I'd have to get like a 2003-2008 Tahoe to stay under $10k. My van is a 2011, and a buddy just bought a newer, nicer, and lower mileage Caravan for the same price I paid for mine a few years ago.
My real issue is space I guess. Ideally I'd have my work vehicle, my off-road/camping/hunting vehicle, and then something with which to tow.
If I were smart I'd combine the tow vehicle with the off-road vehicle. I'll probably just do that. Lot's more thinking to do. Trying to get at least another 25k out of my van if I can.
The AWD mini vans have towing capability, depending what it is you're towing. Maybe you might look at the dodge & ford full size vans for both storage / work and towing .
My real issue is space I guess. Ideally I'd have my work vehicle, my off-road/camping/hunting vehicle, and then something with which to tow.
Hate to break it to you but if you would just quit being stubborn and get a truck you'd be set. It could be a work vehicle, tow vehicle, camp/off road vehicle, and general family vehicle all rolled into one space saving unit. Not only will you save space but you won't be paying registration and insurance on multiple vehicles.
I could pay the insurance and registration on my old vehicles for the rest of my life and it'd be cheaper than buying anything relatively new.
The idea of having the off-road vehicle also be the tow vehicle is ideal because then I'm not putting 50k a year on it so mileage isn't as important. I like the Tahoe because of the size, and if it can really tow 7,500ish lbs, then that should be enough.
How often do you tow vs. drive at highway speeds (65+ mph)?
So my towing situation is one that I could go without a bigger truck. I have a 5x8 trailer that both my current V6 vehicles will tow just fine. However, there is a 36' bumper pull trailer in the family that occasionally needs towing. I've been getting by borrowing trucks, and it could be getting sold within a year. Then, my towing would be either towing an off-road vehicle (which if that IS the tow vehicle then it's a non-issue), or a small camp trailer or slightly larger trailer than the one I currently have.
As far as highway driving, that's what I do all day when I'm working. When I'm not working, I'm not really out driving around.
The reason I ask is that your better towing axle ratios tend to have lower economy (higher engine revs) at highway speeds. If you don't do a lot of towing, then you could go with a lower rear axle ratio for better highway economy, but it may also affect your max towing ability. There's a trade-off when trying to do both.
Well, I tow so infrequently that I don't have to consider that so much, but that's a good thing to think about. Thanks.
The reason I ask is that your better towing axle ratios tend to have lower economy (higher engine revs) at highway speeds. If you don't do a lot of towing, then you could go with a lower rear axle ratio for better highway economy, but it may also affect your max towing ability. There's a trade-off when trying to do both.
Those days are quickly going away. When transmissions only had three or four gears you would be correct. These days with things like eight and even ten speed transmissions you can have your cake and eat it too.
Yeah, I have an 8-speed in my 2019 RAM. The top gear is no higher than the previous 6-speed. There's still the mechanical advantage of the rear ratio and increased loads with a lower ratio have to be absorbed by the drive line which affects max towing.
I went with the lower rear ratio since I like to road-trip and drive fast on the highway. Towing will be a rarity for me.
Bailey Guns
06-07-2019, 16:14
My F-250 is a 6.7L, SRW, 4x4, crew cab with a 3.31 rear end. Max conventional tow rating is 17,600 lbs, max 5th wheel is 14,000 lbs. The same truck with 3.55 rear end is rated exactly the same.
The reason I ask is that your better towing axle ratios tend to have lower economy (higher engine revs) at highway speeds. If you don't do a lot of towing, then you could go with a lower rear axle ratio for better highway economy, but it may also affect your max towing ability. There's a trade-off when trying to do both.
+ size tires can offset the lower gears (high numeric ratio) without adversely affecting the towing capability as much as + size on taller (lower numeric ratio) gears.
Thing is, so many put taller tires on their trucks that have tall gears and then the towing performance sucks. Not so much an effect on diesels, but gas engines will struggle more.
Great-Kazoo
06-07-2019, 18:49
So my towing situation is one that I could go without a bigger truck. I have a 5x8 trailer that both my current V6 vehicles will tow just fine. However, there is a 36' bumper pull trailer in the family that occasionally needs towing. I've been getting by borrowing trucks, and it could be getting sold within a year. Then, my towing would be either towing an off-road vehicle (which if that IS the tow vehicle then it's a non-issue), or a small camp trailer or slightly larger trailer than the one I currently have.
As far as highway driving, that's what I do all day when I'm working. When I'm not working, I'm not really out driving around.
Buy a single axle hybrid or one of the Aliner style pull behinds. While the larger ones are nice, realistically with only 3 in your family smaller makes more sense.
I've got access to other's pop-ups. Neighbor just came home with one today actually.
Great-Kazoo
06-07-2019, 18:53
I've got access to other's pop-ups. Neighbor just came home with one today actually.
If you go pop up, i suggest a hard side unit. Those other ones are easy to cut in to for access of your personal items.
That's the last thing I'm worried about. That's the same as a tent. ANY trailer barely has more security than a tent anyway. The RV park owner where we had the big bumper pull was saying that just the wind will twist RV's out of square enough to pop the doors out of square.
Thing is, so many put taller tires on their trucks that have tall gears and then the towing performance sucks. Not so much an effect on diesels, but gas engines will struggle more.
These are the same folks that often complain about poor mileage. [Coffee]
My F-250 is a 6.7L, SRW, 4x4, crew cab with a 3.31 rear end. Max conventional tow rating is 17,600 lbs, max 5th wheel is 14,000 lbs. The same truck with 3.55 rear end is rated exactly the same.
Got a comp for a 1/2 ton?
As you'll see in these charts, max trailering generally goes up with the axle ratio:
https://www.ford.com/cmslibs/content/dam/brand_ford/en_us/brand/resources/general/pdf/guides/19Towing_Ford_F150_Oct25.pdf
Bailey Guns
06-07-2019, 21:04
Sorry...not sure what you're asking.
If you're suggesting that a 1/2 ton is nearly as capable, I can't argue with that. But I didn't have the diesel option in a 1/2 ton when I bought my truck. And the bigger truck is just as fuel efficient, or very nearly so, as the 1/2 ton. And I like the bigger trucks. Always have preferred the heavy duty trucks over the 1/2 tons.
I was just sticking with the subject matter. Irving mentioned he was looking at the possibility of a 1500 and he rarely tows, so I didn't bring up the 3/4 ton trucks.
If you do tow a lot, then the bigger truck plus diesel is a no-brainer.
Bailey Guns
06-07-2019, 21:11
I gotcha. I was just agreeing with the post about rear ends not being so important in tow ratings in some trucks these days.
I gotcha. I was just agreeing with the post about rear ends not being so important in tow ratings in some trucks these days.
I think a chunk of that is related to how robust the drive line and axle are. In the bigger trucks, it probably makes less of a difference.
I was thinking something like a Z71, but it looks like that package went away for a while. What replaced that, the LTZ?
Didn't some of the older square body Tahoes come with an E-locker in the rear from the factory?
I'm not aware of an E-locker. They offered a mechanical locker, the Eaton G80. I got a kick out of when it would lock in my Tahoe and then resist unlocking at a turn. It's not sexy, but it works.
As I recall the Z71 is more focused toward off-road with suspension upgrades. The LTZ is more of an upgrade package for the street relative to the standard LT trim. Z71 interiors tend to be more toward brushed aluminum, whereas the LTZ is usually faux wood.
What do you mean by a mechanical locker? Like a lunchbox locker? I care about the interior the least, but I suppose leather would be nice.
http://youtu.be/ftyJvIO0DZ8
http://m.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsServices/Vehicle/Differentials/mlocker/index.htm#tabs-4
Interesting....
Side note, pretty annoying that they kept saying "centrifugal force."
^
That is what physicist would have said. :D
No way, one of my only takeaways from high school physics is that "centrifugal force" doesn't exist. It's just inertia. I don't know why companies/people still use the term.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Centrifugal_force
It's conceptual and descriptive. Just using "inertia" makes explanation difficult.
Centrifugal force is an outward force apparent in a rotating reference frame (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rotating_reference_frame).[1] (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Centrifugal_force#cite_note-1)[2] (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Centrifugal_force#cite_note-Taylor1-2)[3] (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Centrifugal_force#cite_note-3) It does not exist when a system is described relative to an inertial frame of reference (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inertial_frame_of_reference). All measurements of position and velocity must be made relative to some frame of reference. For example, an analysis of the motion of an object in an airliner in flight could be made relative to the airliner, to the surface of the Earth, or even to the Sun.[4] (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Centrifugal_force#cite_note-4) A reference frame that is at rest (or one that moves with no rotation and at constant velocity) relative to the "fixed stars (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fixed_stars)" is generally taken to be an inertial frame. Any system can be analyzed in an inertial frame (and so with no centrifugal force). However, it is often more convenient to describe a rotating system by using a rotating frame—the calculations are simpler, and descriptions more intuitive. When this choice is made, fictitious forces, including the centrifugal force, arise.
In a reference frame rotating about an axis through its origin, all objects, regardless of their state of motion, appear to be under the influence of a radially (from the axis of rotation) outward force that is proportional to their mass, to the distance from the axis of rotation of the frame, and to the square of the angular velocity (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angular_velocity) of the frame.[5] (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Centrifugal_force#cite_note-5)[6] (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Centrifugal_force#cite_note-6) This is the centrifugal force. As humans usually experience centrifugal force from within the rotating reference frame, e.g. on a merry-go-round or vehicle, this is much more well-known than centripetal force.
Motion relative to a rotating frame results in another fictitious force: the Coriolis force (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coriolis_force). If the rate of rotation of the frame changes, a third fictitious force (the Euler force (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Euler_force)) is required. These fictitious forces are necessary for the formulation of correct equations of motion in a rotating reference frame[7] (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Centrifugal_force#cite_note-Fetter-7)[8] (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Centrifugal_force#cite_note-Marsden-8) and allow Newton's laws to be used in their normal form in such a frame (with one exception: the fictitious forces do not obey Newton's third law: they have no equal and opposite counterparts).[7] (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Centrifugal_force#cite_note-Fetter-7)
In a long-range shooting context, is Coriolis force not a 'thing' either?
Coriolis effect has zero to do with the fantasy of "centrifugal force." Using that term doesn't make anything easier to explain. Inertia is about as simple as it gets.
EDIT: After reading that paragraph you posted, I'd say that yes, Coriolis "Force" is not a thing. I've never even heard it described that way. I've heard Coriolis effect, which seems more accurate. In no way is it a force.
Then you don't want anything GM truck related. They use those fantasy things in the diff.
I read online that they have a reputation for exploding, but it sound like it's mostly from people putting on oversized tires and mashing on the gas while off-roading, which is really the recipe to explode any diff or axle. No need to get sassy about it. There is no such thing as centrifugal force so no one should use the term. We bitch about the use of clips, one time use magazines, guns that for 30 rounds a second, and shoulder things that go up. Those are all either incorrect terms, inaccurate definitions, or just don't plain exist. Same thing.
What do you call a centrifuge in Irving land?
A machine, called a centrifuge, that uses inertia to separate materials.
I'm not sure why you're taking such an issue with this.
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