View Full Version : General vehicle thread
Pages :
1
2
3
4
[
5]
6
7
8
Well new power steering pump is in. Power without noise.
My baby is back!
From now on AC Delco and factory juices for this car.
I need a hardshell for a taco.
I need a hardshell for a taco.
A chaloopa?
I need a hardshell for a taco.
https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=http%3A%2F%2Fscene7.targetimg1.com%2Fis%2Fimage %2FTarget%2F13043721%3Fwid%3D480%26hei%3D480&f=1&nofb=1
Hey, do any of these photos contain red flags that I should have noticed before I bought this project vehicle?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0tvD-4OYchKiFjXxHTWD-Q6xGdA4GJSUKLhlkAP-nMWXOJt-d2lbqNF7PWV5OFRNbnWw1_QsJxj-nzEzLGVJudCB3ybPu2s6NJYFyLC40uzY8mdWyRzS4SqRXXnUqi jOFt-rY0724CRgH0L9rBWOzsuFVKtD9eBOly01DkPHnoZAr-SeZJu4AwvzwEmaqN2ox_MIsvyjeVfyZ_7YgpccJ4hh1isGUh-lSQ0rS9qdAu8lsqAva1XyIKZYQJxG_FulfNb7DFNr7uZpMPfT6 bNCPsZYG1FTdrIjO-hc-Q3fnOnIRfl-k43X3ZZddI1r4R1uOyVN11E2BAt9wlzVAThjrrQOLlTrZdWmJw 3l2bi20LkazXXFkdj6Kh-Z3suPORDn1OrDwx-8WJ6inBj1cJfJU0TCy6r6QfOx62PurubFMf_HvE9tf7d5dBElG FReJejpZbjrrKywllvuHRn_eTluVj_C5Jq3i-luQ1UImzyPhnLDxk9fr32wh2KL-BHO3r0_20hpAZMRbgUU0QLwNn3g4yPjH5M4hdIUK0BOfOese-U04eoXvR8MYKNLGsYSlzHWx90XyL8-GqF53SqMwenE59NPwOvrd6sr0iJ1J5Oj4aBTE_B81SitY3IFx8 psaxIjhYowHYLzm3IXZH58_JJtmr41P9LZOelIvBM3j-ZJ7XmtQJHvSBulrMu2FZG3JcvXNFPi-6i3Q3pI5cA7wxImO1wpdgm2guPTp16pCG9ZBKabpCik=w1112-h625-no
Oil in every spark plug hole
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/V2N7rMt9dplQsgL17apkW64NG44qgx0sSF9EUvtMBigSFfR4Np pN4dKyJNvrArvfwj4LooZREx0Mq5TfuFkZ6wSEKSBoYcw3Q5iB fO2fwQpV-PAof31HCBRZQwGUUiynDYDO1fqIRaE-Br2hEgBM3sP2qr3SL4p43TpTvOEnaAiZ5tYndyOUZ0_9vp8YLb wpZO6Jcp7JB1CQCg6MT4uI6xFuaRbCZygoKvIpQA6Hasfcp9pN QPPA7-BCenyFnyrdQ7ZJ9nkKSYdomr7SGsPoVhhwCM5NNCJ1MATXT8kR v3UANU53PvT4lH6oCPnmzYeQm54wE6Mjl8fpgw8sC-icEK_Jamu_x4AHg2kkMEPRfTKeIm1lRrXH0FWtKWTJC3URmwN8 SOZyo_fuQGWm7R8XuhWOBv9ShC3o-wZ4QtHMzGUXdJS-ncjeEXMaWpY5_gzzm5bMNUDu6F3n0hcZ9PvMN7diRkMzEbR2pD 2Ncvcg1Zls0C0-LPJt1T8ahtTI2tp8TGMUi8iJ9ZKkZsK0kePk_pO0cEmuxPJyn_ ZVnlzg_EdhNlTPxXXrO6N1Z9rNmJWg4qpKrV4m6S91ZFA16MT8 XwNmR9ZmVDuk3Ynz2ZUl-ZYnZCe6hW6i7900O2mWO4TTpj8VuntyibqkkruZ7ehjkdQm4RF jymB1hSdUWxUYjVG8ExtdO0eLNtS6PiLX_6cKSiL9coTinofiv 11JfycegXAe84RBZqQaAVj0JfIVqWuDGTD0=w352-h625-no
Very liberal use of gasket maker and boots that were practically welded to the spark plugs.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JpNjeQGZMX4aJoWn2CQpNBbSGz6ayKSd0iyGqIGcrIxOkRtVbd 4la5tDh0DbOHvDd65le8agDijJDg-2TIZ3J1_vd8QgVqcSqH1HxfzucDdamd9NIFdT7XvKEI5APZIuP 7OXTwF81ddp9ec_-CiGaoeVU2kEJZDgae8ZhiQo8fV6V93oxZHzF4sKMxkGNdI2vlW 3raPD_USEQSYdLGlOMJZYSVJxEwXRoJhBR9C6XeZkfuo-IfMUeQjvl7rZQZZ8TCR7xDY-SFhNOyUc0tJoySQ7zFQQzr7pJgeOaDmAOYOlVd8a4tAtLLALIA zNrF7OULWoCy9LRJbslG47owA8aqL9pL7C4cWFEJY9XUEgfUgZ IM5yRhY7l8pA3DBGGVQ6aX6rGIn7KJvDUR5Ck4Z38pfdefQRiX Pj2QIUMoN4qMUa3x2yDGysX-psVE0lXEVyDXRwfMbT94uJhsjosclT5FiTYPLewFxCtXIegZUG kIrAkYnyRtHJctJDt15u-SjEMs4lgBxKI97g8Hk7ILAPyjyfkqd6JWUt94ZqSJz1-jlVSpYTCTAO0-PDbY1fxofzxUE5bqYgsLo-wQP1XMVbwxBm1S2VAgxSkEnK2B0Vpu8WiUFBemPRSZRa_XdMm6 Ztcx-rDC9H3OesWaQLatZ4N6ABqIu1UepdaV-y9qiVKQK8VKGvPQET9LM5EITpzAcozb78pvqXeP5de_kkm6LnY AuED9z56UU7R6z2rFecyHcURi7m=w1112-h625-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Kdp6x3VdqtX10KlYZDBbO_EHzhYSJbuEJf9X79Z5_PYvF8jYnN 8SiVuXiwFT9Nc5utNGUt-1GlLh5HzXfKuw1QfOlK3o3l_zRG774si_UJ7y1AOcM98acTAAQ 92ZcKLk6ZXOmFPujDNOaQtj3j9w45yMyTBw5-tSY0sYp0V7jrtTUS9X57_jcgYbqI-Ak6GvH1cGCBIBhhXdSwRfymIOPkf4j1GVzKPXPvC1psdC1G9jk UFCJ_vyJVG9BZpziY1xdP5xnCgBpv0HgnTJO_BJg9tLr2lxcU4 gXQP3N6hmLPM63nXWd3lDy00lVh82z5OfZsmrg80hZZuUL1Hoa zE_QuY45bCP-rP37E0ePAHtGnLKMKLreYPS0lqSdhbnyp9crkuzYYh33vPddNs 56Sz1YBV_v2K27qLduxwgFVYdAX2gbgekuQydjo6i-9Xg9wsQ_7EbmuVpFFPDTJnnJxqKWRFdNwwP_XXPGMGw1f73qbg uePY38Yxv2aqXXFjG5E4pNkKPmfpUtvo8SrpZSFczJ_q0ZVr8E DKkfGq2xQoT7XWLp83n8KhE4ys2c4fYGi3lfVlw_YNjNb_bgfP GDuXmJPhKQuGpTPt5eWJEwuPi6mmPEwE9Qpi_NTKH59KxbmH_g if15XTgqxTmedsM5e4xc3dmUCeqRuYuXY4yuLAOrrBwzuBv064 JQ0rzUbUcFE7tPJJxSKp5ycDqZ9Ck7Hqx_kx9ONpMxak8hRumQ iZOrioxvQ75=w352-h625-no
What looks like saw dust behind the timing belt cover. I heard about that in Matilda. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pks7q2qyM-s
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ikLSPQ5FbuaefMP2PVLQlQR3QVNatLXT7Pxyg71tXfVH4Tauv2 GCaWW3WtlyLAwpP05pd68odhhs_gcFCCchGd6hLV4_SU6Ot_0H XvIy3l7p4AO_mPszY07-o0FV_h8nlOB7m7iFq8elCmASkns1azccroVBfmecZfBUsgwl_O dRSR54RI7cLXnMGlHyMbRiyE5n1pxkKM5FIhVExx45Ggkn98bF nNXFfKIMTUpzNiI7Z_vHm_qL7Xz13oIP_LelQ3zHD3HBK_nxFU wP0uxWZruHsd6YiPWIQLki_F4ELp3uPVDBbwE1I49cW33MALPd xJbPCNbIILNMkoTasXzbbMB0kQ5JCw_yZF7z_590ooRZFiNeVC 7f62myQnyetJUf2hDyLUl7t0oi2GKKn3gIUG1mHon5X6aLbRK-jBIEEvsE6NV-5yeErgn_K-PtT9ODp75hDTeDFZtAT_TnEBf5G9-eMKQKckkz2EyqhoIFIB_mwOvA7VZ72OQWwDbEU-lmWSdiMHVlK5zMAuOJ1lW8_ePsJqhiUmld6vXp537mnr1sRkpU oNOdx86Pojg9Hv9f2F-J6LxXuyjBo1i06XULy91CDY3jJ3hcRs7OuW5UOlZda_qhbTPe4 CUuq4-wqGOLyNrEdFPR2Tfvh2rX6YlK5a37qngAWiMDOz692P_xSkdwP _YAx0iQtOaaYJUyP1lQ-8LJBgPRo1_d6VPdUJkE7yflPmaM1aOjC192ErB9jhhxTPa2=w1 112-h625-no
A chaloopa?
https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=http%3A%2F%2Fscene7.targetimg1.com%2Fis%2Fimage %2FTarget%2F13043721%3Fwid%3D480%26hei%3D480&f=1&nofb=1
!Quiero!
Hey, do any of these photos contain red flags that I should have noticed before I bought this project vehicle?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0tvD-4OYchKiFjXxHTWD-Q6xGdA4GJSUKLhlkAP-nMWXOJt-d2lbqNF7PWV5OFRNbnWw1_QsJxj-nzEzLGVJudCB3ybPu2s6NJYFyLC40uzY8mdWyRzS4SqRXXnUqi jOFt-rY0724CRgH0L9rBWOzsuFVKtD9eBOly01DkPHnoZAr-SeZJu4AwvzwEmaqN2ox_MIsvyjeVfyZ_7YgpccJ4hh1isGUh-lSQ0rS9qdAu8lsqAva1XyIKZYQJxG_FulfNb7DFNr7uZpMPfT6 bNCPsZYG1FTdrIjO-hc-Q3fnOnIRfl-k43X3ZZddI1r4R1uOyVN11E2BAt9wlzVAThjrrQOLlTrZdWmJw 3l2bi20LkazXXFkdj6Kh-Z3suPORDn1OrDwx-8WJ6inBj1cJfJU0TCy6r6QfOx62PurubFMf_HvE9tf7d5dBElG FReJejpZbjrrKywllvuHRn_eTluVj_C5Jq3i-luQ1UImzyPhnLDxk9fr32wh2KL-BHO3r0_20hpAZMRbgUU0QLwNn3g4yPjH5M4hdIUK0BOfOese-U04eoXvR8MYKNLGsYSlzHWx90XyL8-GqF53SqMwenE59NPwOvrd6sr0iJ1J5Oj4aBTE_B81SitY3IFx8 psaxIjhYowHYLzm3IXZH58_JJtmr41P9LZOelIvBM3j-ZJ7XmtQJHvSBulrMu2FZG3JcvXNFPi-6i3Q3pI5cA7wxImO1wpdgm2guPTp16pCG9ZBKabpCik=w1112-h625-no
Oil in every spark plug hole
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/V2N7rMt9dplQsgL17apkW64NG44qgx0sSF9EUvtMBigSFfR4Np pN4dKyJNvrArvfwj4LooZREx0Mq5TfuFkZ6wSEKSBoYcw3Q5iB fO2fwQpV-PAof31HCBRZQwGUUiynDYDO1fqIRaE-Br2hEgBM3sP2qr3SL4p43TpTvOEnaAiZ5tYndyOUZ0_9vp8YLb wpZO6Jcp7JB1CQCg6MT4uI6xFuaRbCZygoKvIpQA6Hasfcp9pN QPPA7-BCenyFnyrdQ7ZJ9nkKSYdomr7SGsPoVhhwCM5NNCJ1MATXT8kR v3UANU53PvT4lH6oCPnmzYeQm54wE6Mjl8fpgw8sC-icEK_Jamu_x4AHg2kkMEPRfTKeIm1lRrXH0FWtKWTJC3URmwN8 SOZyo_fuQGWm7R8XuhWOBv9ShC3o-wZ4QtHMzGUXdJS-ncjeEXMaWpY5_gzzm5bMNUDu6F3n0hcZ9PvMN7diRkMzEbR2pD 2Ncvcg1Zls0C0-LPJt1T8ahtTI2tp8TGMUi8iJ9ZKkZsK0kePk_pO0cEmuxPJyn_ ZVnlzg_EdhNlTPxXXrO6N1Z9rNmJWg4qpKrV4m6S91ZFA16MT8 XwNmR9ZmVDuk3Ynz2ZUl-ZYnZCe6hW6i7900O2mWO4TTpj8VuntyibqkkruZ7ehjkdQm4RF jymB1hSdUWxUYjVG8ExtdO0eLNtS6PiLX_6cKSiL9coTinofiv 11JfycegXAe84RBZqQaAVj0JfIVqWuDGTD0=w352-h625-no
Very liberal use of gasket maker and boots that were practically welded to the spark plugs.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JpNjeQGZMX4aJoWn2CQpNBbSGz6ayKSd0iyGqIGcrIxOkRtVbd 4la5tDh0DbOHvDd65le8agDijJDg-2TIZ3J1_vd8QgVqcSqH1HxfzucDdamd9NIFdT7XvKEI5APZIuP 7OXTwF81ddp9ec_-CiGaoeVU2kEJZDgae8ZhiQo8fV6V93oxZHzF4sKMxkGNdI2vlW 3raPD_USEQSYdLGlOMJZYSVJxEwXRoJhBR9C6XeZkfuo-IfMUeQjvl7rZQZZ8TCR7xDY-SFhNOyUc0tJoySQ7zFQQzr7pJgeOaDmAOYOlVd8a4tAtLLALIA zNrF7OULWoCy9LRJbslG47owA8aqL9pL7C4cWFEJY9XUEgfUgZ IM5yRhY7l8pA3DBGGVQ6aX6rGIn7KJvDUR5Ck4Z38pfdefQRiX Pj2QIUMoN4qMUa3x2yDGysX-psVE0lXEVyDXRwfMbT94uJhsjosclT5FiTYPLewFxCtXIegZUG kIrAkYnyRtHJctJDt15u-SjEMs4lgBxKI97g8Hk7ILAPyjyfkqd6JWUt94ZqSJz1-jlVSpYTCTAO0-PDbY1fxofzxUE5bqYgsLo-wQP1XMVbwxBm1S2VAgxSkEnK2B0Vpu8WiUFBemPRSZRa_XdMm6 Ztcx-rDC9H3OesWaQLatZ4N6ABqIu1UepdaV-y9qiVKQK8VKGvPQET9LM5EITpzAcozb78pvqXeP5de_kkm6LnY AuED9z56UU7R6z2rFecyHcURi7m=w1112-h625-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Kdp6x3VdqtX10KlYZDBbO_EHzhYSJbuEJf9X79Z5_PYvF8jYnN 8SiVuXiwFT9Nc5utNGUt-1GlLh5HzXfKuw1QfOlK3o3l_zRG774si_UJ7y1AOcM98acTAAQ 92ZcKLk6ZXOmFPujDNOaQtj3j9w45yMyTBw5-tSY0sYp0V7jrtTUS9X57_jcgYbqI-Ak6GvH1cGCBIBhhXdSwRfymIOPkf4j1GVzKPXPvC1psdC1G9jk UFCJ_vyJVG9BZpziY1xdP5xnCgBpv0HgnTJO_BJg9tLr2lxcU4 gXQP3N6hmLPM63nXWd3lDy00lVh82z5OfZsmrg80hZZuUL1Hoa zE_QuY45bCP-rP37E0ePAHtGnLKMKLreYPS0lqSdhbnyp9crkuzYYh33vPddNs 56Sz1YBV_v2K27qLduxwgFVYdAX2gbgekuQydjo6i-9Xg9wsQ_7EbmuVpFFPDTJnnJxqKWRFdNwwP_XXPGMGw1f73qbg uePY38Yxv2aqXXFjG5E4pNkKPmfpUtvo8SrpZSFczJ_q0ZVr8E DKkfGq2xQoT7XWLp83n8KhE4ys2c4fYGi3lfVlw_YNjNb_bgfP GDuXmJPhKQuGpTPt5eWJEwuPi6mmPEwE9Qpi_NTKH59KxbmH_g if15XTgqxTmedsM5e4xc3dmUCeqRuYuXY4yuLAOrrBwzuBv064 JQ0rzUbUcFE7tPJJxSKp5ycDqZ9Ck7Hqx_kx9ONpMxak8hRumQ iZOrioxvQ75=w352-h625-no
What looks like saw dust behind the timing belt cover. I heard about that in Matilda. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pks7q2qyM-s
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ikLSPQ5FbuaefMP2PVLQlQR3QVNatLXT7Pxyg71tXfVH4Tauv2 GCaWW3WtlyLAwpP05pd68odhhs_gcFCCchGd6hLV4_SU6Ot_0H XvIy3l7p4AO_mPszY07-o0FV_h8nlOB7m7iFq8elCmASkns1azccroVBfmecZfBUsgwl_O dRSR54RI7cLXnMGlHyMbRiyE5n1pxkKM5FIhVExx45Ggkn98bF nNXFfKIMTUpzNiI7Z_vHm_qL7Xz13oIP_LelQ3zHD3HBK_nxFU wP0uxWZruHsd6YiPWIQLki_F4ELp3uPVDBbwE1I49cW33MALPd xJbPCNbIILNMkoTasXzbbMB0kQ5JCw_yZF7z_590ooRZFiNeVC 7f62myQnyetJUf2hDyLUl7t0oi2GKKn3gIUG1mHon5X6aLbRK-jBIEEvsE6NV-5yeErgn_K-PtT9ODp75hDTeDFZtAT_TnEBf5G9-eMKQKckkz2EyqhoIFIB_mwOvA7VZ72OQWwDbEU-lmWSdiMHVlK5zMAuOJ1lW8_ePsJqhiUmld6vXp537mnr1sRkpU oNOdx86Pojg9Hv9f2F-J6LxXuyjBo1i06XULy91CDY3jJ3hcRs7OuW5UOlZda_qhbTPe4 CUuq4-wqGOLyNrEdFPR2Tfvh2rX6YlK5a37qngAWiMDOz692P_xSkdwP _YAx0iQtOaaYJUyP1lQ-8LJBgPRo1_d6VPdUJkE7yflPmaM1aOjC192ErB9jhhxTPa2=w1 112-h625-no
Project for personal use or to flip?
I already see 500ish worth of parts needed if bought on Amazon or ebay.
Personal, if it's not too much of a money pit. Guy said it needs a timing belt to run. I've done one on these engines before. The interior is kind of trashed, but the suspension and body is in pretty good shape. Looks like at least valve cover gaskets as well. Has some new parts like starter, clutch, and a lot of ignition parts. I'll be replacing the plug wires and plugs as well. Plan is to get it running to see what else it needs and decide to fix and flip or keep and build into what I want.
That Isuzu is gonna' need some love.
I would like to see BEFORE and AFTER photo of Isuzu.
Well, I'll maybe update at each big upgrade/mod.
Right now I've been shooting the pull n pay for timing belt covers. My contact on the Isuzu forum that can get everyone factory new parts says my only option for new valve covers, is ordering them new from Japan for about $40 a piece.
The, pretty sure original, water pump seized and bent the shaft, so it popped the belt out of alignment just enough to burn lines through all three timing covers.
Great-Kazoo
01-28-2020, 01:03
Personal, if it's not too much of a money pit. Guy said it needs a timing belt to run. I've done one on these engines before. The interior is kind of trashed, but the suspension and body is in pretty good shape. Looks like at least valve cover gaskets as well. Has some new parts like starter, clutch, and a lot of ignition parts. I'll be replacing the plug wires and plugs as well. Plan is to get it running to see what else it needs and decide to fix and flip or keep and build into what I want.
When you turn that motor over i suggest a few bags of oil dry or kitty litter. Either the rings are smoked or the valve guides are trashed, along with the seals. Don't waste any more $$ on it, flip for parts and move on.
If anything, i'd price another motor from the junk yards. Why try fixing that ?
But. knowing you. You'll dump another $3-500 in just because. And probably still turn a few dollars for your trouble.
It's a non-interference engine. It will probably have really loud valve ticking though. Think this motor is known for that.
Bailey Guns
01-30-2020, 17:24
Every diesel we've ever owned has been trouble free (aside from normal wear items) for as long as we've owned them. Former wife had her first issue with the 2014 Cruze TD at just under 100k miles. The DEF heater failed and threw a code. Local dealer ordered the part and Chevy is gonna cover it 100% under warranty. Pretty good deal.
Former co-worker had a similar problem with his GMC HD Denali. Had to ultimately replace the DEF heater, but it took several visits to service before getting it straight.
Bailey Guns
01-30-2020, 18:41
Yeah, I have a real love/hate relationship with the local dealer. Very nice people. But their service dept can't really fix shit. They seriously suck. But they're nice about it. First time I took the first diesel Cruze in for oil/filter/lube I asked to have the DEF topped off. The freakin' service manager didn't even know they took DEF. I had to show him the filler cap on the car.
I swore I would avoid getting another audi. I am weak.
80488
Interesting read.
The Electric Car Cost Tipping Point
March 21st, 2020 by Zachary Shahan
https://cleantechnica.com/2020/03/21/the-electric-car-price-tipping-point/amp/
That article seems deeply flawed to me. With the cost of gas dropping to amazingly low levels, the tipping point is likely so far out that you'll never recover your extra cost for going electric. The countries mentioned in the graphs are spending a ton of money to force electric adoption and I didn't see that addressed. Those are dollars that could be put into infrastructure or other needs.
The battery technology still needs improvement and any new technology is likely more than a decade out.
Anybody know if any of the chain auto shops have the free scanner that will read ABS codes for a 2000 Tundra? Thinking it's one of the sensors on the wheels but would like to know which one rather than just fucking around with it forever.
Autozone, and many others. Unless there's something really special about the ABS codes on a Tundra [dig] I assume you're talking a generic OBD code retrieval.
Autozone, and many others. Unless there's something really special about the ABS codes on a Tundra [dig] I assume you're talking a generic OBD code retrieval.
Most “body codes (aka air bag, abs etc) can’t be read by a cheap obd scanner
I thought that vehicle registration generally went down year after year on the same vehicle. My car is a 2013, and the registration this year is the exact same as last year, down to the cent. $227.23 for a 7 year old sedan.
That's about when it flat-lines.
I thought that vehicle registration generally went down year after year on the same vehicle. My car is a 2013, and the registration this year is the exact same as last year, down to the cent. $227.23 for a 7 year old sedan.
That's about when it flat-lines.
Did you get hit with the "you own an old worthless car you useless waste of oxygen" fee as well?
FWIW, it should still be going down but there's probably some new or increased fee there from last year.
My 2003 renewal was $72.77 in Aug 2019.
I think it is 10th year it gets cheaper. 9th year and 10th year of ownership had a huge change in registration fee.
(damn Writter)
I should have said "plateaus" rather than "flat-lines".
You know how on every cop show there is some fuzzy picture, and some guy sitting in the back of the room saying, "enhance, enhance, ENHANCE?"
That's what I did with my tie-rods.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/naY-pBciIZoinFeTt_lBzFv3Fe61rrRXHYFDiRUOsiyeIFP2H4byAL rsPD9YHIu87jdOJw4EOQFzaG-ZJIJrjU1g9rbkqUaJTCGz4sU9LzLAnv9UpBJcy_0zc8o46Mtk1 IPfKJxv0jTHdrRsoDMBobAGuBU-G5XL3pFKywyngtlvYLRgW0zM4RqXKj-dILwqehCtabVgkDdWJqGBGNwIzyxe1Y_DKzAxsX4oVHXaCLoi0 CFmnDSrlyEdoWOWxkCpb2M-n_Pzr6_WcKjn-2vu2ZzuF0yXBmwyRrQ26nUFjCafvRpNH4UmqXPRgfSXTCGch8L e1KAAjNl9us3b6se_ZRBAQOMOnwDdCv7LvAgzpjJotJ1JoKxTu udnkPGjJqyrQxWVxuNG3dWpfbEiNk_W9Art3Ep5agsp8kiP9Zy OLagyE99teSrelBzmZiI-8Nc4uasE0F6NfzOkMaFufkp-8zC1eyrTWy4bD-HS_Iz9VzbaPGafMRWd_GcUeGk5BMwQTard-UMRo7owgJlsQ6-MM-IEUyFenT0-VczaLRyY-5FkEVmccEtsOyuLvPdvDp5zXIwkfwzQSheWW_wjh0B17kTTEn2-OWXZQBeQxbg7-c-UPkFSNFS4yUvAsK0j9BqN8uFksWadMHwFMZcAHh-mm4esAimk7WpU1eEMx29rIc3IFBU2zkNtbmSa6iEwRPVyh2ljB S63qImWB3gkXDJUUtapT63B28XO3nFqiC3aa1aDAQffH5w4AKk =w352-h625-no
Tie rods. Lol. Where?s the rack and pinion?
You know how on every cop show there is some fuzzy picture, and some guy sitting in the back of the room saying, "enhance, enhance, ENHANCE?"
http://youtu.be/KiqkclCJsZs
Tie rods. Lol. Where?s the rack and pinion?
The Amigo has rack and pinion, but the Troopers got tie rods, and apparently weak ones at that. The upgraded version is ends from an F-150 and the center shaft is from something like a Chrysler Sebring.
^
Any cool updates on Trooper?
Nothing substantial yet. A lot of this stuff is maintenance with upgrades. Started on ball joints, tie rods, and axles last night. I have lift springs for the back, but changed my mind on what I bought so I need to return and get something else. Clutch is here waiting to be installed, and low range gears and some shocks are in transit. The Isuzu transfer case is small and is only 2.07:1. The crawl gears are only 3:1 (Toyotas can fit 4:1 in their case) but the difference should be significant. I've purchased the steel for sliders, but want all the parts installed before I start doing that.
The upgraded version is ends from an F-150 and the center shaft is from something like a Chrysler Sebring.
If you think about it, it?s sort of sad when Chrysler Sebring parts are an upgrade for your vehicle.
If you think about it, it?s sort of sad when Chrysler Sebring parts are an upgrade for your vehicle.
No offense intended to Irving, but that ^^^ made me chuckle out loud.
That's the FIRST thing that came to mind. Second was, why does the Sebring need such a large tie rod shaft? Probably shared parts between vehicles. Or the need for stronger frame on a convertible, combined with the driving of the kind of person who would actually buy a convertible (and a Sebring to boot!) in the first place. Who knows?
Irv, what are your thought so far on Moog problem solver parts? I need to work on the suburbsn front end but I am in analysis paralysis hell. Moog vs ACDelco Pro, vs OE ACDelco parts.
Moog should be better but some folks said they are overly stiff and the steering sucks for the first 15k. Not thrilled with ACD Pro execution on some parts but found some discussion how they are far superior. The OE parts, well they lasted 90k miles, not sure if that is as good as it gets on the suburban, or Moog/pro would do better.
Anyway, the whole front of the truck is coming apart for changes and just going with new a arms with parts installed. Just got to decide which parts....
A question on raising the truck front end. The suburban has the front a bit lower than the back. Since I am changing the fronts I thought about buying the raised swaybar keys and adjusting the front up by an inch. Anyone got experiance with this? Good/bad?
I don't have a ton of experience with how long replacement parts last with respect to suspension. I'm a big fan of OEM for things like electronics and water pumps. I did all this same suspension stuff on my Amigo and it's been something like 14k and everything seems fine. Moog just seems to be what people recommend. I like that they have Zerg fittings and that seems to be a selling point, plus I don't feel they are overly expensive. Everything I'm replacing on Trooper is completely shot, so even factory parts would make a world of difference. Moog is nice that they have a big catalog of parts to mix and match and make upgrades if you can, which is exactly what that tie rod is.
Is there Suburban a torsion bar front end? That's what all the Isuzus are.
Is there Suburban a torsion bar front end? That's what all the Isuzus are.
I think it depends on the model year and if it's 2WD or 4WD. I seem to recall they got away from the torsion bars in the front, but I can't recall when?
If it's torsion bars, you shouldn't need extended anything. When you lift, you are just moving the resting point of the control arms up. So you lose down travel and gain up travel. If you go up too high (past 3" on my platform) the spring rate turns very harsh and your CV axles are at extreme angles and tearing boots will be common. At that point you can do a front diff drop that will lower your diff and give you better CV angles. On my platform, people do a ball joint flip where they install the upper ball joints under the upper control arm instead of on top where it is from factory. This is just to allow you to still get a proper alignment.
I wouldn't expect to run into any of these issues only lifting an inch, unless the ifs components on a Suburban are unusually short. You won't need longer shocks or anything because the shock travel doesn't change.
I?ve seen more than a few broken torsion bars on the front of GM trucks when people crank them up lift the front end. I think the purpose of the offset torsion keys was to allow the lift without adding additional twists to the torsion bars.
I think I've read that somewhere. There are about zero, and dwindling, aftermarket parts for Isuzu stuff so those keys aren't available. I bought HD torsion bars for my Amigo and they were something like $400. The same bars for my Trooper are something like $650. Ridiculous when you can get stuff like that for an S-10 for like $150. I'm not going that route this time. If I decide to go big or go home, I'll just SAS it.
Thanks. Yeah, the torsion bars are on this model suburbans. With the minor adjustment I think CV joints should last, but the angle will increase.
Any issue with reducing the down travel for a 95%+ daily driver?
I can't see any. You probably have something like 4-5" of total travel.
Martinjmpr
03-24-2020, 15:39
I think it depends on the model year and if it's 2WD or 4WD. I seem to recall they got away from the torsion bars in the front, but I can't recall when?
Half ton (1500) Suburban/Silverado went to coilovers with the GMT900 platform (2007 for Suburban/Tahoe and I think 2008 for the pickups.) AFAIK the 2500/3500 (3/4 ton and 1 ton) trucks remained torsion bar.
I saw a red isuzu trooper with golf acura front logo near 120th yesterday.
Not me, mine is laid up in surgery. I do see more of them than I thought I would
Spent a day figuring out pn for front cv boots. Dude at ecs kept insisting its the non 'A' suffix pn. Finally found a knowledgable dude at the dealer. He said its the A suffix part. The non A suffix part is the rear boots. Same basic PN.
He also told me keep good care of inner boots, as some of those cv joints are no longer made and new ones require different output shafts. Wow. Good to know.
Spent a day figuring out pn for front cv boots. Dude at ecs kept insisting its the non 'A' suffix pn. Finally found a knowledgable dude at the dealer. He said its the A suffix part. The non A suffix part is the rear boots. Same basic PN.
He also told me keep good care of inner boots, as some of those cv joints are no longer made and new ones require different output shafts. Wow. Good to know.
My guy gets them rebuilt somewhere.
My guy gets them rebuilt somewhere.
Probably should do that, except I am ocd about my cars. Plus I would be down a car for a few days. This should be a 4 hour job even for my slow but.
Probably should do that, except I am ocd about my cars. Plus I would be down a car for a few days. This should be a 4 hour job even for my slow but.
By "rebuilt" I think he still does core exchanges on them.
P.S.
Don't buy parts from 034, they don't stand behind any of their stuff.
Having some surprises with my CV axles as well.
Having some surprises with my CV axles as well.
Maybe you could upgrade them with some Chrysler parts?
Just the inside cups are different shapes and I don't know of that is normal or not. I might check out some PT Cruisers at the junk yard this weekend though.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_gONssBX5AgK0xiFd_m1o2AsOjJtSZlBecqFahG2NO9j4LORhf 8ijs-GlMKbCSD6D5pD51LRKjmjSRwD260Q6BEjQ3_pFpXuAIp4MO-MX0PPtJyyS9j_t0m_bqZpJKzE98e0iLPnNo6XfJbGQ_raKMs7H khBfWybPJ1smhnoVjSZ9V7lVJtsVkGTHkGa7prCSE1sE4Auj4w-7JCkNfBnpu29hIeP2SdlsITuRgdOLpYrUMy8YL7n6rdWGS76a3 luRc_ieKQJlb4H7M3UpQCFQ7ps4a49eY9ls2BXa4qJE5kI57v6-8dI-F-9jaenwMn8JF0it5iqH9xJE8E0qZtkPbsIyoi_OQp-I42aP0QOl7vTNnrCbzFJfSaRp8cYVfbbnfvNfJMIZW5p8Y6MR-j62eVf5Ww-0VZMiMPCQ-E7mYkpgJZqoUVnuJ90DGLqxrlIc1B2hFpdnc3Pj7a489rFUrES NpBQ9RUit16Cjpe-zsWnT74aQJ1CNJBY89569PdtC5tGytOKZniEUnnhxkULyIxL0v QX50jfgKOiuw0MWuJTh0QRRiycAp6m1_sDrTx-Z7fNSPGI68W4a5pf-aIStbh_irTsf0VWaTzpXd6Wu3JEr0pG1h_RfC2KkZBE_5wk8PH a0jdbY3NEAJmgYZys86nWnvND6-sQ2gGPeNy8nBJJ7Thy4uTJmt2Ih9-IedMdzX8Ad2MlNX6Lk1AarUdARXR2kq1-CxlvzvtLP48WBh__JYZHxh2yoEQ=w1112-h625-no
Just the inside cups are different shapes and I don't know of that is normal or not. I might check out some PT Cruisers at the junk yard this weekend though.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_gONssBX5AgK0xiFd_m1o2AsOjJtSZlBecqFahG2NO9j4LORhf 8ijs-GlMKbCSD6D5pD51LRKjmjSRwD260Q6BEjQ3_pFpXuAIp4MO-MX0PPtJyyS9j_t0m_bqZpJKzE98e0iLPnNo6XfJbGQ_raKMs7H khBfWybPJ1smhnoVjSZ9V7lVJtsVkGTHkGa7prCSE1sE4Auj4w-7JCkNfBnpu29hIeP2SdlsITuRgdOLpYrUMy8YL7n6rdWGS76a3 luRc_ieKQJlb4H7M3UpQCFQ7ps4a49eY9ls2BXa4qJE5kI57v6-8dI-F-9jaenwMn8JF0it5iqH9xJE8E0qZtkPbsIyoi_OQp-I42aP0QOl7vTNnrCbzFJfSaRp8cYVfbbnfvNfJMIZW5p8Y6MR-j62eVf5Ww-0VZMiMPCQ-E7mYkpgJZqoUVnuJ90DGLqxrlIc1B2hFpdnc3Pj7a489rFUrES NpBQ9RUit16Cjpe-zsWnT74aQJ1CNJBY89569PdtC5tGytOKZniEUnnhxkULyIxL0v QX50jfgKOiuw0MWuJTh0QRRiycAp6m1_sDrTx-Z7fNSPGI68W4a5pf-aIStbh_irTsf0VWaTzpXd6Wu3JEr0pG1h_RfC2KkZBE_5wk8PH a0jdbY3NEAJmgYZys86nWnvND6-sQ2gGPeNy8nBJJ7Thy4uTJmt2Ih9-IedMdzX8Ad2MlNX6Lk1AarUdARXR2kq1-CxlvzvtLP48WBh__JYZHxh2yoEQ=w1112-h625-no
Yes. Outside is a swiveling ball bearing. Inside are bearings that slide inside the long cup to adjust for length. Inside and outside cups use different grease allegedly.
Those are both the inside ends.
Wierd. Mismatched set? Or Isuzu being stupid?
I'm not sure. I haven't gotten around to asking on the Isuzu board, as it's pretty slow now a days. I'm thinking that the cup doesn't really matter since I bet the inside shafts are the same, but in order to change that I have to drop the whole diff and that just isn't going to happen this time around. Either way it's annoying because if I want to carry a spare axle, now I've got to carry two.
Okay, so here is the deal with the CV cups. On the right is factory, and on the left is the aftermarket. Usually when you replace an axle, you just do the outer, so all the remans are the OEM style. However, if you buy a complete axle, I think the companies use the tripod style like you see on the left. As long as the spline count is the same, it doesn't really matter.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BqWckyMjPyQIwFn_cbsHfVNs35HCFNQq0xO-xankwhj_oTTp9m6Ld3H_l_cOE9VZmNehgnYLeXFjH7UY2g8fm5 R7m016zzgxALvvw5s_r9dN9k_jh2Oz38w7a2zPcXx1rCL0Oz5K lpMQfV-vw1hTLc0yLX775u3hLT9u7ftClKalejRM2SUJQZeMrnXq99IYY bmfq6dN3SidOMIImhfdhXVdtW7JixYipkA56gUEe8yjHgdp6MY _wo0sK47d7ZIi9UFnEO_kJO0GEO8cF50e1qQ342EYZqiMPSs7X RsYJ_I7j2g2XtJZA40J_V0-xON8ZWZqnc-o8oE8DtRO6fXKFGD-nj5sH54-X70NKjWe1_XcYTdKsUUTo_50oI8FadNPVtLlgzS01scYG8nrVa XbI_wwmea84a8nmkLMydJ2WMgIWYKX1asskLb-j7oURF8P5Euwpb8fKtKI5ND66BDdpOnYJ2yJyvvJR1vKAczw2M fb8CuosKnmyjRRvEx87E7bvUzin1-3K9fzbxjvA9IkoQSr0sZk2lxLW5s5YjrfklLFbeHIG1nOtFRuI-tIJpUVL4ewix3wTXtGj2QBe4aYzfz_sR3eKAZXhSGV9exi2tHq h6bvfYTGAqTdMGninss4mMByZWlOXyeW3OIDYDpxbFtfZad-x3r6WjOpkFB2X6R5GG919O0j2P_4WBlk-sXsdeFakXYbm9H6cKbB-ACYmBY6deAfxuLaVh_TD4lwYkDbT-2ajp5pQKQ=w894-h625-no
Well, I don't want to have to carry two different style half shafts in case I break one on the trail. So, in order to replace that cup I have to find a complete OEM axle, and drop the entire front axle assembly and diff just to get that cup off of there. I've already got all the front suspension parts off to be replaced anyway, so I decided to pull the differential as well. I was going to change the diff fluid anyway, but I probably would have put it off for a while. Glad I pulled the diff because it seemed like there was less than a cup of fluid in there.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/E4zD96DfKPvYA8sbi44-nmVHYVlB1jl-RvEd_Hgwn0gj64dhE0RCxS3yO38N_Vwl45uK6_Q_-k_NyzaSDKZEZ4dfgfnmq11uLaL4kAGvYZWZhahNrb_vC0X1AGU KZhiQHHACNLZ06FcxrWil6pWTqkmPWiTlJdGHAavv_ablJFBoQ HPuFAWki1hLah1_Lihbmhz6xB_VvhCw-17k66KYKN_-2gdKG5JgurmXt0K9XWAvQ4-exvVD4gffIx8Eoz7zIpJxS_wLiNE6SBjhwxq8Nj0oJNzOrpFdX LxRxyRkDz1pTB-X9tTgCfScLlJsf76ZgaQ6l8Mv2SC7rdzg8bWcrPtIustbfomuX kg1AGbAUmTm8bnJkuBqQgIMjDFwxtbjGsi2kHdwFESEOkLo7yU GdhqqqYYxEk9iayVZbVIu8i3tvDe306nZfbr_TdueeeM2E1JoM 8diDUdWrrI0YliTTppzQfB226S1Twg4TaHEwhystqZn_Tg4PeW gFgRZzYidR7MPbMrXv7YYBSSs4e_aUilKEQoifwMGnK24eDKq9 CvhwrfO5m3rldL9NQSdluFxYyeDw_f5GLzAltNYc1kc0VBalx6 c-5Bnpw6p9ZI3vdf5-kac8_i1rlHZhqpxEFKv4QTNatmPQ7j9PGlv7pubGiDljkqE5kR 0N4eywzdGaqrAkgI0Qt-6c9O0zFAskVx-SBjYiUSteLWmGDxN7pSNjxz8NL4zWU0vqySU3oUI32fsXPvQPT T9hjo=w929-h625-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FaqSsjKM7rJ36qJbQkOe4qVV2D_1Ui-9XNV3bObXgBzuKMTOxs_3tEPhlCvVL6yPk_N5dT_o01ya8NY67 BisXV0TF64WmWxFnLqjseGt41b1zn8ZdS8DZWIuICX7kQJ2n1k XG-RTGjVANvkovaUNU5RUVqQcLXZDIMBBIH44PRPcYjfu5zIu5PD9 CA4tSBhyw9Fye3Xb0EP6_SOkBZYdDY3mwcBRzDnmCexICOnx_D 1zYeiW5hnjkIZQmmZWADL_CSM7GoEaQckVRGyw_VG_Ryhvf5Y2 4ekHvC126qSHeacpzM-QGCPT3qt4TS2OwZRHrDmjjf7td5EeWczXqiEw3V6vJbBwP7c11 rUgBnzficnYh0BdgLDgp7XJDmC0kMLonCFCRlouLbBdPM0PoWD Uu_0gsegDQhAGPSX3y8sTLz3ROI8RfXSfA4wBMPI56KpHtKe8C TwBTISh48NS8ZVsgeJM5Z-GyIJUOgKj_Kinfge2dlpRInT3dLPS8PC516gz1KCYq5ruXOM0W 31_vNbTN-kHnpii8XiYkAGi4bUTO2486JuBxhr5jTWHp97uCwTs2-2UZTRZGF6wknpw36b8lEfJ_otdcxARf1wFGUX207gPJieSyTpB wf0RGCLGtwzpeyEvEDpGUiXM_hXjt3ajCGuyhX8rFb8syAywLr 2bcrH0XI09Ok7pkEd09K9TG9MbhuzYGW8STeGZ1_hLvaH3bqyY KpGJ1JkVbKRKB9Q-9aVhEb3dz9qRgDc=w1112-h625-no
Soooooo since the diff is out, might as well go full potato and do a diff drop. I checked out what it takes to do a diff drop on a Tacoma/4Runner and it's just pulling two bolts, adding a spacer and longer bolt and putting it back together. Looks like it might take 30 minutes. That's not the case with Isuzu. If you try to drop the whole bracket with a spacer, it runs into the steering. So it's a bit more involved.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WkMJdU5yfvi9k_SEWLS0wTr23sT7OSkOW4JZNBRghQ_sfd_2jI sXS20620FklJ30cyQWWwE8nuYaDBzQ1jLNzT9rakLQiWiuvlNa pedhVdSfQa_vX39x-4ttAtsgNYUXIR4y9KF-7MwkVT2bx6JPy0uY5LZGYVZC0TtYo5Uyb1OHrxFBWFFjI1cEB8 2PSgfUsbMljxr4k-LqB8TMxHbM5vIUEAZex8dw1DmROCxC0T_q2HqsCw8WA4omA6tv D70fXJpVxquOkJpEPuI3QxcbEcqMhfHY7JKZwvNCqecZVAv1xh tMj1g118clQuMODyO2DAwRlRQ8Jem8x0tvCFLqjaj4foG8bvO9 J4tlAZtwVnbqR6LeeYe-E9x-rHoY3hrS_wjlc9Ahmcc7w9dkNYusDJ8ARfYHvluwwnGrcapreb 9ajrys2LdHDSQGnlT4TzKx_7SBk_eaW1DyfBE_Wfu1KjHuLZmD BgWPSmTGjAUQu_vlSYNFXmZxUz4KoQ9VXH9o9Xs811Hk9lF7xi x6H8CxDjCJfz2RnU5wlMXCfrkLqqV_N_nb_95cqAqjJQ050i-HO-1IOxKLJQJODGC2QsEw5fOgkqh8kmTiGc-863YCAEixT_PoFLWoTUAghitNXCwtxN7jcHzJkEnDurlRiiUIE VhsdpPx37JRp78q5_D6TAUAhtZ4djhA7DHxtVsTLO2chjoD8E7 RHU74q51AzHZvMfoJm-drqePwmMFVJAxe-pIjDUXLAGyZ4Ms=w889-h500-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/R26J7K-FuBVxjAX8Bd6lZDSyBY8MYdtwgnK58zbHS_kxkfT4BrCetHl_T k96X9SIc_NGYGcb-TlIVaeNd03xe8gjZoAdvxJ7eWv_8x9yu5QevZviOsrUZG6oyNk QFOX7-jxSV3ETel8nEY8GYIhB7sBzkYSzkusfPSBWylZOX5OeACd1yTP LZEEOsxw7hG5Kl-qMBTi8yXKjG3i0llIfDrDe7lin6HuAlrtaRqk3TPBulcvVBDtl dVKtbtUNBDCOVGDWYo3gz4xABVG6STwNEeEbztFIQy98WVlde8 8TizXN8x3QSrgi6_rHJ_MTld4rb7yCavYtOSNvu27v25JANF82 G2v18uQzuJbe7AyX8Qoe1KYv2FPg-yEzO2sATEb8PX-y0kbFul2V3HtSyDTrkmE5ln9NkN8wceZBbN0Bn3ezO0Q3qw_Lg kwJgaIs_tt2JoqfGnnPdK3XhI6elbFpBYFtO7nnvTWlFP0BHeW v_UW3-AJqduaWrjsYp9NsRzsBt51PVcVVlojFS8lLOMGO2OJsjPJxA1d _rjVfrrwa4JzFlJBg_vS-kJJGaWr5pcz_Lk825lpva9dgp9FUAvgY02ACc1UMdTJXRTAqP1 5lR4Ub6EomF-CTst400W8_BwERonXbBckA_3eWmniNjUJUJR09b-4Bsr7y4_QB6Swb-yngr26aijn0ELzZAIQZ86jnhmFvKrDwSh5rhFvT4gamj_yKmo_ unBv6TJ0dy5zVCpyHjPhz3nMKP0M=w808-h625-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Egpi-ltoMpmDc0wtdDF4LmcAdteDSDlTc4hfzUCGP7K7ckOnnLG4ts9 Wrao00sE7I8oOTKzhK3H-4nA34fGrDZylSdMkJK5AEHDwdIbSx-fPzqAZRG8MJQnJ1LkNon-xgHdnQC0JXFVqO8mQkqB5ZMwwzrm51phgTDIXVnwKOcD9vnlFa KPCy4eq8Bn8_B6PkKt3t1qei7WYrxwjLI0TsLJiyPE6y8Kn34Y RorL3WBKoCoytkFDW5aiJvbi3w0FpPrcXCDWveMGm4z1sZZmIQ 6HkKetW1eQTMuGQ7TdY47-OmShVd1oiKv1FaLYEB1kLRXeM_DvzE-SS3fJWxEOHIxDTBXBlb8GhSiAKD3HDHB1Olik63xuMLFachS5Q GMFOExzUPpanqISmRP4pThmc0nhqj1p5H96qjuKCC-FB-0smuus69fxkePGFfuZyC3q-E8znj8kDok-9YoEm9Tm78Di6zuDce-EXLaYQFGan0f3VDXzqimbEZyrBOEhRxEf5bEWERRB0aftKqG5x 5WOy-4H-P-SEeMNnlbQkjhdzdvz1WO1r20o46OBRHHUBi4cJUti691sB6ZS-P2pHjN3avAxSikUOa1CaGRc06xQChV-dhIeqTc-zyafhaRfdpCo7QkTqymdhsqsk9idMkERBiC4zHlGoVdgBU9QA7 fHrcuQgOdLObbKcGAk6C094yw_ZWuKdQGUc_Vcv2BsTW21y8ij dI-bgAzSv74i6cv_4Zc2fibcw7kdIuxM=w805-h625-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3nD1S6a7hs0tgp8u_Pd5bMx43xBhl3X3zo5fSZ6DIxpGTxqLdq yGg0CmE53zyOaJUbdEwiiJe86h1UbR2oCHDVYwoXTbalCBUobt U7fNcoTFBwkhLPl6D27Ufp53meB6PCrakPagbNp-nTMjwsgfUXqz1sSbnlBE5Z49BTjOhLmHAutkieEOucNWdSN_9K O3pzf9CaWS7LMB0YTybUhMmvkn8o9Zui4CD6piNfD--kDp61U0wmhd_IXXyc04p90u-xXhb4toWt-8gnxqgiGWlspGcPV9ne9vgUmx720g8sQ6LEcjtiJRH6PwB-II31hCskrty7xBDUveSIL_PLRbkV02KPw2lejxADHQm95-Gq8u-z3lZNhF4gJNWXh81aej4CoulZM5DY3QxRe0p8cTntygHtFQQBR k_iVqu8c6dls_kU7XgFoYYhUAK5riob7d5RZiTu3ngcYeCukQf nQunHDf30NkK5rAbAxF7LFjzNEfDmTZkleI9Hsbr36nyWoIzf8 FE53WmS8J0JmHtuw54ZlUDXAe__WJN-RlDPnRBK9Znf8L0xNvJHeZ3JZtgZhg20PySPj6cg63YAOWraGA 4Nd7C_5tHNCjKBEyhprPBFWrReznrxdWDHDDsjiL9Cd4mDc8RU Kmqt0QNCIjbG3qtu8efMgMdBGlb8QLJii_FH13ZCfElu5pvm4r mCuahqAUxRPRHNiwHFZV6g-U0CZo8q6RhGMo2lCGgBoYI0cSi0U91Ine_G0UflI=w1112-h625-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/h2tiuRxzZ1exsZ9M6RhwoG_M1MhkH310gLyeWIe6uQxxFxPjS2 Nq-0mWC2HBAmeHGmt0Ruawa7XtYHImcioGh65t0lnsjbgp63ItnBs EylpJRRYc_jgofBfaV_wDIe6ksVpStT4vAow2tV8sCOc9DHB0R b4VQiHLgvk1-0QI78LzZamhGxD6Arl07_3A98fL3U_Qf3gyng9cRe8sVr9IJnR Rn3h_OYk1Ww0D8Q5C5zRp4ZsNNNGrrrZsIOLZVr5MjyS9k3DPp 6oStX_Fr-iUOm4FXPuWKF17UOdgg8jJsNjVGInQ1QgQT0JPz7BeLxEU956R th_cZGsUjpkz3XtvsRbJSkrtMNBrb8yT4AfZX6OlfYctDtrr8T OndDTk8vQztmINvr4g976cMG-LfYZvmZnU4syGEdUYh6Gqr1qy3Bj1GFd2DeXem5N0acr6TOiB_ 02TSflEIitaRmiKTMaTrvI7wpQ4QZcSFbxStrExtYAuVE4oXfH tbAlQsx6oUpzW1t-fiyDFjmseX_qeWpTKfr9J_TahLF6m_FcqhkoltgjDuOdbyi0eg Owxm7dFUk_55ZDE0PcvHTtekw8MZzUXoM_e0dG-ixs7HvGFQ5cU93W9kxMDmeZq4hsgRfESKFX0cCtbooEhq2bKlA 9ngyvB7Smc_1NZSSfJl-1X2GFUN2mheDR1Rb_TDMVB6RrB3feiQ-M2nSF2r4O0fZ85CQ8doK97uLS4rA3tuBC_ML0HP_oVNsyZYohx mOQ=w1112-h625-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/td_5wVcutvvRSryMFuhQ8Z5jirp3y310UF8a7uf_gKatLyd9_7 q7d8SLneDqmgZCSOx9fiycMSNo5i7KpLIdy2_f2_4UMPvsb2Gx BvVPRtdqGqbx47SFBWUxKP1JYq8PNC7YQpaR8vwyfMBTICFCm4 3aEZa8QYrNuFSKEAPaOrpW7ncQX4FcrLFcrlUlNrINJ2GP6yi9-MWlZMiEHiRJjNfBiEwyEnbSHVEKN_QhhtXVgTyGFpu5Hpxrdqi lV0-_AS_-RyjqXqfWArv5bC2CypTzHoWylwo8mlA7FPAf1O_Kgc1NfhxjeP Muwd4CzmqJZr-I33ALbNOCszsbP1b0_9r7B3wXciE0EreaQqkY9F6WrQ0WGfOsj pDORTFidSVfCw6JolZGoGvJUMWStq-dS_oW26HAiAh4r65PNbY_OZW91FKrPMSw3CF5UIPZkK82SBfq7 ae2d0tKaatOgj0KU0hG-9kt12sNQ8twXpjHWqy4-H53b5ljm4vwhIsezV8fihb2gldyMef6j5sKqrOKKeXaZs0IhqB 1aWixuetRpAkt72a3yH4bUN7zfZaQ_G8piw3UU3St686A6wujq FhedRIGtVuKe7Rnt-c2rBLeQ3yjvccjhewK-4Lo0CmfXEDssZSYEKla4a2su7VYIaHUkqc3HkMhhNdNHXaqUd2 ARfsywcXuUdtayVYgMGuw6YevCA3ib1FlQcGEIckqwx5Q4FYGh jaGTSnhMF9g6-wsLIY98DZBxerIyN4=w786-h625-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/E3P0nLYDsqqRLtYZA5E1MMQbGCEc5ckU9gHVHkgQQE08e2ztdc WZUp3kyEBxEudwKQak0IBGrl5y7KGmEnMX_yAEhwebYayF8kt2 Mpi6ndRTKT_M9XTO93ZzU1lwtg7Q6QOwdjjbE_YbWLSt84h8ZB u4faevQjMTPCqq8lqa6IfDGj1ofHuoYqxO8KwvYW8QweLS--vjh6APqyJH0IB-Hv6iIvYcDm5Q2M55eVoB3Q_nXeqwCp4nSTV9pxITWO3nAKPd3B kb3HvLDO86ieJ2kzC2PkyOA8Ie99Ds0tJLy_U4nGUNBenoCHvP M-f6AtmcrewawztyyAbB0rJCvBltXU9FLnDMjAOv00oMFHPrX3WT rYn-56Yp_ds_DcLVCNMlQ_GK3hWqZtm9bckLrVDePZRamH2aCMmLYi FkAJpMsMgvU1rBg4J7wLZFHaVMPea7aaHgfEM-vHU1PdBrDVT9-7fxYlXUhlR4jQYH8lnCz193cMBtKK9_eRJpBRjaFIR46-GL9sTlv3pABWWxPJTIus1l5pgJN-5KTSpubr5EA0KyrNmEDHvjU3MpPR08bS4WEYJGdTbQn_cSBHy3 ezo74d8O1oVGMnmwZAfiw5DTpOudwAjFG4v-27xVqwqHvE1MEyKzREZO5lxPcYrKUaTEvCmK4wkrteeAeg1UAW lYf1LLRcM31-OgIw003c7FXEp5u8dc3gk5ZxoE4iiYFvFzMMPB09qkNig39rio vTukMjErww0P905LgCw=w834-h625-no
Now I've got to grind everything flat and get it all painted. I complain about how easy this is on whatever model Toyotas, but the videos I saw you only put a 1" spacer under the front two bolts and ignore the back bolts. So those guys only get 1/2" of diff drop, which doesn't seem like much. Mine is a full 1.5" drop, and I'm probably only going to lift it 2". I'll also notch the cross member that goes right under the diff. Notching it saves all your ground clearance as opposed to just lowering the bolt holes. I can fit 33's with no lift and maybe a little rubbing. I think with a 2" suspension lift I might be able to stuff 35's. I'm considering doing a 1/2"-1" body lift. I used to be opposed to body lifts, but it feels like 2" suspension and 1" body lift might raise the center of gravity less than a full 3" suspension lift. I'm not sure how the math works out. Also, I only need like 1/2" body lift to mount sliders to the frame without cutting the pinch weld along the bottom of the body.
Oh yeah, the low gears arrived.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/o-MPh6S_DEVCifFfqbuB0HFFXmppPZznuiuQJ37WpujJEkCCsAua w3NVOfE-qkHV5maVYQk2i_CtDTKEySjuqkFrgdjwEXxM3rYm5QYLZMdA3U THW2ByGUo2MMTqhABdqlLdCMR6KbbUChfchtsXL2uV-2qL4xZbzdzVnEhbMhHxolmDQrTZh7FzAfEttTAe7yL51_kvGyG K8qxln-EAdKu1npiaXp3G-G8jFqRA6_FwCzg3fMKWJxOcjuygizMydpNULBDN1ZKPyH6eErn afEwBS7ShcqDidriEoOFb3PA2s5B2oQNVcmCxd8pTd_ptETiPj 03gFJMuLb64ee3zMQ3fotgm3iZUdtSEZLJn38qwUBPiCvzBxlB CN_nt0GRTqKpfxgaojIFlRcckyQkCUhtG4L04FMtjc9jMjWxez Cdi-QwrQK85V6BNW1BfWkgrVNwK6bTMdho6riPwg4iQKmroUp_yumn dW-AHX5TAq6MVxuThFoZs1k15DYBa14bT_bByBCdkDya7RrO0poQ0 4B6HL7kmJIgR4FyTtLt6f_WBPX97qoxJv4WgiAdQ-4UEzXStBHz1hXgI0YpoHvrH0qccm_k8izJkuRieK54OfqPlFSM x6FppEOq_BPLTEdR1pzVCwYP05ulqYsxS3lxvw9267BK4ufqOr nZMEXVNZMchzyHJH-nnL6giyfEDwTv-iamOmudioBvPtQWhE_ASGoBj3wB5ssPSEa0RpqEvpTtuudVN0n 51HfA=w695-h500-no
Great-Kazoo
03-30-2020, 08:11
your welds are looking good.
All i did was replace an injector on the jeep. 1 injector from parts store $53. Online 6 for $75, 2-3 week ship time. 1 it is.
Nice job. I would sugest extending the side flanges to the end of the plate edges too. Right now the outside bolts will do little to support the diff.
Those welds look pretty good!
You're putting a lot of work into that old Isuzu.
Thanks guys. There isn't really a way to extend the sides beyond just welding on more metal. This is pretty much the way it gets done on these; even when you order custom brackets from a company for $300 or whatever. Just judging from all the other guys that did all this stuff a decade ago and still have rigs that are holding up, I'm not worried about it much. The brackets really only hold the weight of the diff which feels like less than 100lbs.
You obviously didn't go to the Helen Keller school of welding, like I did. [Coffee]
Updates on the trooper?
I just ordered a ton of parts for the kids car. Fluid changes from front to back and a CV rebuild.
Not going to say this will be fun. But there is something enjoyable about getting tasks accomplished on cars.
Spent a full two hours grinding those welds flat last night. I don't understand how I managed to get such thick welds with how large of gap I had to fill. Now I need wire brush the brackets and prime and paint. Still need to source OEM axle. Need to return the first lift coils (for the rear) that I ordered, as I have different ones and shocks in route. A Lokka for the front is also on the way. Can't wait to get everything back together and actually be able to use the 4wd, but I'm still pretty far away. Still have the clutch and low gears to do.
UncleDave
03-31-2020, 14:18
Stu, you are going how wild on that thing! Long live the $50 car!!
Well replaced the CV boot. Taking off the axle and getting the old boot off and new one on was easy and done in 2 hours. Then I needed to install the ear clamps and things went south. Broke two of the cheap ear clamp pliers, only ones local. No one had the good Lisle pliers. Frack! So ended up going to HF and buying the biggest pinch cutters (?) I could find. Then I busted out the grinder and reshaped them to work as ear clamp pliers. Stupid german ear clamps are tough! But got that done, after sever car store trips. Then install into the car was easy. Annnnd then I had to torque the hub to CV bolt. Stupid german torque requirement. 150ft-lb is easy with a 1/2" torque wrench, but the 180 degrees additional was just stupid. After 45 degrees broke a 1/2" extension. New extension got me another 20 degrees and then even with the cheat bar I was stuck. Another trip to the HF, more tools including 36" 3/4" bar. Had to run that thing with my cheater bar for a length of about 4 feet. I estimate the final torque was 400 to 600 ft-lb.
Its done, I am sore as frack, spent more on tool then I wanted to. But its done and gtg.
Stu if you want to borrow some kick ass ear clamp pliers for the CVs let me know.
Ha, thanks. I still need to pick up my CVs. I contacted the guy on the Isuzu board that can still get factory new parts. He kindly informed me that a new OEM axle goes for over $900!!! He also said I should be able to get the OEM style from Advanced Auto. Thank goodness.
Wow, thats more than the Audi axles.
As long as the shaft and tripod cup is good, I think the joint kits are not too bad from afermarket vendors.
Well I did a rear diff top off, Haldex fluid and filter, engine oil, and then the DSG transmission fluid change.
Rear diff was 35ml short and the dusty oily surface around the CV shafts shows it. I will do that this summer, it can keep till then. Will put together a list of part and get to it when I can.
Screwed up the dsg, need to remove the drain tube. Luckily I had extra liquid and no biggie. Trans feels better but still needs a drive to adapt.
In general fluids were dirty but not too bad, so I think this car was well maintained and not abused.
I got a second jack and with ramps and cribbing under the wheels I felt safe idling the car 6" in the air.
Next projext is the suburban front end. Close to $1k in parts but beets a new truck payment. A arms, steering, front diff seals. 2 days unless something goes pear shaped. Hope to get this done before quarantine ends and I need to drive daily.
I'm on week three of my two day project.
I'm on week three of my two day project.
Sounds like you are ahead then. [emoji1]
I've bought and returned three axles from different retailers now, and even checked a few in store that I didn't buy.
Linkless
04-12-2020, 09:15
Screwed up the dsg, need to remove the drain tube. Luckily I had extra liquid and no biggie. Trans feels better but still needs a drive to adapt.
What happened with the dsg? I get to change mine out in the coming weeks along with an oil change on my S6. I am planning to put all 4 corners up on Rhino Ramps and may raise the air suspension if I need extra clearance.
What happened with the dsg? I get to change mine out in the coming weeks along with an oil change on my S6. I am planning to put all 4 corners up on Rhino Ramps and may raise the air suspension if I need extra clearance.
DSG has a plug on the drain. But there is also a tube under the plug. You need to remove the tube in order to drain the fluid. I forgot to remove the tube. Then after filling about a quart of new fluid my brain said: "this is all wrong". So removed tube, drained, and then I luckily had a spare dsg fluid kit. Ordered one from FCP and then someone wanted $50 for a VW OE kit and I picked it up. Pentosin is the makers of the fluid for VW per internet. So I ran 5 quarts of VW, and half a quart of Pentosin. Pentosin looked and smelled identical, so fairly sure that might be right.
If you are ok running Pentosin in your DSG I got 5 quarts I can run you a deal on. Also have the 6spd filter from FCP, but that says "O.E." something. From FCP it sounded like it was OE, not a company calling itself OE. So not sure about that thing.
Right after fluid change the gears started grabbing during the warm up. So something changed, and I suspect the better shear and lower filter back pressure were throwing the trans off. After warm up and a few more stationary shifts it calmed down, and feels? better now.
You got vcds or something else?
I've bought and returned three axles from different retailers now, and even checked a few in store that I didn't buy.
Wut? Why?
FCP Euro. Cost 1-10% more than ECS Tuning, but offers life time parts exchange.
Because all the after market complete axles come with that tri-pod style inside axle cup. I'm having a hell of a time locating an OEM style one. I asked my contact that can still get factory parts and he's telling me that a new able from factory is over $900! That's ridiculous.
So is the tripod worse than oem style?
According to some people sure. That's not really the issue though. The issue is that to replace a whole axle, you have to drop the diff completely, which is an hours long job which should never really have to be done. When you buy a half shaft, it just comes with the inside joint exposed. You fill it with grease, slid it into the cup, and zip tie the boot. So the problem is that any half shaft you buy comes with the OEM style inside joint because those inside cups don't really wear out. So if I ever broke an axle again, I'd have to buy a complete aftermarket and just throw away the cup every time. Also, I'd have to carry both styles of axles with me on wheeling trips as spares in case I break one. I might have rambled a bit, let me know if that didn't make sense.
Catching up with you. I would probably swap to what is most widely available. Take a hit now, swap both axles to aftermarket, heck buy 3 of them. Put 2 in, keep the half shaft as a spare, call it done.
I get trying to keep it stock and oem, but at some point the ocd is not worth it.
That's the rub. All half shafts are OEM style. It's just finding the OEM inside cup that is elusive. Think I might head to the junk yard and see how difficult it would be to drop the axle in the dirt. Probably a lot easier when I don't care about it and can leave all the parts off. Hell, that Trooper I just took to the junkyard will probably be the one.
Ok with you now. Let me know if you want to borrow the HF trans jack I have. It should prevent the axle from dropping on your head.
Thanks. Axle is out already because I decided to do the diff drop and install the lunchbox locker while I'm at it. I forgot about the part where you gently Jack it down. Can't use Jack's at the junkyard anyway.
Can't use Jack's at the junkyard anyway.
Well, that's a dumb rule.
whitewalrus
04-12-2020, 14:08
I haven't known any junkyard to allow jacks to be used. Guess they do not want people dropping things on themselves. You have to use their pickers and such.
Linkless
04-12-2020, 16:47
DSG has a plug on the drain. But there is also a tube under the plug. You need to remove the tube in order to drain the fluid. I forgot to remove the tube. Then after filling about a quart of new fluid my brain said: "this is all wrong". So removed tube, drained, and then I luckily had a spare dsg fluid kit. Ordered one from FCP and then someone wanted $50 for a VW OE kit and I picked it up. Pentosin is the makers of the fluid for VW per internet. So I ran 5 quarts of VW, and half a quart of Pentosin. Pentosin looked and smelled identical, so fairly sure that might be right.
If you are ok running Pentosin in your DSG I got 5 quarts I can run you a deal on. Also have the 6spd filter from FCP, but that says "O.E." something. From FCP it sounded like it was OE, not a company calling itself OE. So not sure about that thing.
Right after fluid change the gears started grabbing during the warm up. So something changed, and I suspect the better shear and lower filter back pressure were throwing the trans off. After warm up and a few more stationary shifts it calmed down, and feels? better now.
You got vcds or something else?
Mine looks to be completely different in the fact the pan has to come off to change the internal filter. Double bonus if having an external filter as well. I have had my vcds forevere, got it for my 2001 S4 initially. I am not seeing the Pentosin listed in any of the kits for my car so i think I will pass but appreciate the offer.
I haven't known any junkyard to allow jacks to be used. Guess they do not want people dropping things on themselves. You have to use their pickers and such.
Well, I guess that makes sense to limit liability or whatever.
Fairly certain in the 1980?s I used a jack but that was different times for sure.
Probably haven?t pulled anything other than a couple of body parts in the last thirty years or so.
Does anyone have a 4x4/offroad shop in the Longmontish area they can recomend?
I got some questions about leveling or slightly raising my suburban that I cant settle on.
I did figure out that I like my Suburban enough to not replace it with something smaller more offroady.
hurley842002
04-15-2020, 14:44
Does anyone have a 4x4/offroad shop in the Longmontish area they can recomend?
I got some questions about leveling or slightly raising my suburban that I cant settle on.
I did figure out that I like my Suburban enough to not replace it with something smaller more offroady.There is some extensive knowledge between several of the members here, that likely goes well beyond the very basic information you are seeking in regards to suspension leveling. Ask your questions, perhaps someone has an answer that will safe you time and possibly money.
Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
Neat toy
https://www.blocklayer.com/rpm-gear.aspx
Not sure if it necessarily counts as anything vehicle related but I stumbled across a few YouTube videos of people building drift trikes and it looked like a lot of fun. Definitely something I have no business doing but the temptation is there.
Wait till you see people putting litter bike engines into lawn tractors or snowmobile engines into single seat go-karts.
ChickNorris
04-16-2020, 16:39
Not sure if it necessarily counts as anything vehicle related but I stumbled across a few YouTube videos of people building drift trikes and it looked like a lot of fun. Definitely something I have no business doing but the temptation is there.
I have 2 drift trikes. Neener.
I got to ride a buddy's home built go cart with a 600 street bike engine once. It was stupid fun.
The thing I also liked about the drift trike builds was it seemed like you could build one for peanuts. Most of the gas powered ones looked to be using some sort of cheap, Chinese dirt bike engines. One guy did a sweet electric build that would make Jer proud.
I have 2 drift trikes. Neener.
I kind of giggle picturing you and the hubby having some sort of Mario cart races.
buffalobo
04-16-2020, 16:48
Wait till you see people putting litter bike engines into lawn tractors or snowmobile engines into single seat go-karts.We built a cart with a 440 Kawasaki snowmobile engine on it. Couldn't keep it on the track. Pulled the engine and put it on a scaled down sand rail to run the dobe's.
Tip for eurocar drivers:
As you know NAPA have many of many sales. During that sale+promotion+online coupon etc, it can actually be much cheaper than popular online stores.
Now the real juice.
Sometimes walmart online would have a super sale on fluids. Have them send it to Walmart and it can be rewarding. I once bought 9qt of (avg price 15.99/qt) 10w-60 oil for 8.99 at a walmart online.
Aardvark
04-16-2020, 19:54
Hope I'm not breaking protocol. Anyone out there have a Lexus Rx330 or 350? How do they do in CO snows? How about going up the high passes?
Hope I'm not breaking protocol. Anyone out there have a Lexus Rx330 or 350? How do they do in CO snows? How about going up the high passes?
All right. Who let this guy in here? [facepalm]
[Sarcasm2][Coffee]
Protocol? There's a protocol? [panic]
Wait till you see people putting litter bike engines into lawn tractors or snowmobile engines into single seat go-karts.
We built a go-kart with a 440 Ski-Doo engine and G-60 series 15" wheels/tires on the back (shows my age) and little 8" kart wheels on the front. Wicked fast and wicked squirrely.
There is some extensive knowledge between several of the members here, that likely goes well beyond the very basic information you are seeking in regards to suspension leveling. Ask your questions, perhaps someone has an answer that will safe you time and possibly money.
Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
Ok, I gave it some though and here it is.
Use case: I want to use my suburban to go off into the mountains more and just hang out and explore. For instance when it gets snowy like this go somewhere on a mountain road and get out and just chill out. And when it is warm take a few trails and let myself and doggo enjoy a night under the stars. No need to have a prerunner or rockcrawler, just something that will get me there and back. The suburban is a great truck for our family as it seems to be just the right size for road trips, and I hope to squeeze in a few more before the kids start their lives.
Modifications: The suburban has the Chevy rake and the front is about 2 inches lower. This never bothered me too much, but since I am working on the front end now is the time. Plus that looks a) bad for an off-road truck b) looks like a good way to mess up the front end off-roading.
Ideally I level out the front by raising it about 2 inches. I can do that with new keys but then I am reducing the down travel of the wheels. This seems like a bad thing, and I think having a mostly symmetric up/down travel is the way to go. Not really interested in jacking this thing up, but maybe a 4" lift kit with 2" in back to get it level is the way to go? Larger tires are not really in the mix right now - I would like to go 33"+ but to do it right it means front and rear diff gear ratio change. Plus the truck would go up by 5" in the front and probably look funny with the 31" on there right now. Also I don't want to go too high, so that it fits in the garage for service and work (HOA nazzis).
So I have no experience with this and want to make the right choice without screwing this up or having to redo the whole thing in a few years. Open to suggestions and guidance on where to look and who to talk to. Also, if the cost of this upgrade reaches the equivalent cost of buying something like an LR3 or a more off-road capable rig of similar size then maybe that is the way to go. And if I am off my rocker feel free to point me in the right direction. Thanks.
I'll have to respond later, but so far it looks like you're over thinking. Everything you described can be done with your stock suburban. Whole the front might look lower, due to independent front suspension, I bet you have the same clearance under both diffs, if not more in the front. Also, you won't really notice losing the down travel. It means you'll potentially lift a tire sooner, but the increased CV axle angles would be a bigger deal.
I'll have to respond later, but so far it looks like you're over thinking. Everything you described can be done with your stock suburban. Whole the front might look lower, due to independent front suspension, I bet you have the same clearance under both diffs, if not more in the front. Also, you won't really notice losing the down travel. It means you'll potentially lift a tire sooner, but the increased CV axle angles would be a bigger deal.
So if I got this right:
1. Stop overthining.
2. Just order the parts with the 2" key.
3. Get ready for frequent CV replacement.
How frequent? 50k, 200k?
So I raised my front end about 2" and haven't broken a CV. It's only been 14k miles, but my vehicle is not a daily driver, so a good portion of those miles have been on fire roads while hunting all over the state. I've done some wheeling, but nothing very technical.
My comment about over thinking was more about getting a 4" lift, because to go that far likely requires a level of custom building that you don't want to do, or pay for, for what you'd get. I think with a full size rig, you'll more often run into fitting on a trail, or dragging your ass end around everywhere.
Just because you lift, doesn't mean you HAVE to lift 2". I'd look at your axle angles now and see what's up. Also look around on line and see what guys with the same vehicle have gone with and their results. Light off-roading like you've described shouldn't put too much of a strain on your axles.
What size tires do you have now? Going from a 31" to a 33" might not bother you all that much as far as gearing. You'll mostly notice that on the street though. Once you are in 4-lo it's less of an issue.
On another note, I got my front Lokka installed.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DURj45Zx26J6Q9gJ75C7b1b9PwKZE1GbaH4qrSy4GHurvqxrqq JQfXMj4b6vNkadgAss2CaZovIYUOB6IT0g5ceNuFY6U62v6Txs WdCsRdDEKiAMHRPXpkgWHVGG1A9Jm3yzXuAZhNkMdBLDzUhv7u BHPR5PvIRbBE_vybRy-c9-0OCxMNksr4t1KtGYnHrrJW7-OJ9DRtVR-KviIwpUuBR1HfZLjEZvw9u7XYzIDRVLmUHar7Pb9bPqotGd4of 1cC-B6-SRfRy-A6h2OepXA5N8Tir9pDRRITmk0yljWZ1qo5IyoMTU6S2uRjzBBy Fz6tGARvbqT3n2udqS7ttNcFnExcS8Du0FRnUBATjxxGODf6__ AuJaWJ-u79BPG4Rj3OqV1Crs4GJiGT7WU84F89GQ-5vJPmWeQxaWXx0uJWHtjJxoX-etYnNRqEO_viQfaIHZyNNXjmJswBGFjxoWIjEMUG35yeIYFFM3 SfLJL9EljjLQnLIIWp0Tm9oaZ1xjtL3I-BM6Vm8C8h7piLh1_lXESudNba9TFVD4R7o_CqVNAD33p_vfIpr euwg8tFPhcaVSutWxk3xtp0M7d9_kx1KkOIpNTvw-U-DPzq6sPE_mKUbPuujm_KPzwrGIi_dkKe77gGofFfQwiGRZiKIQ BjBXjCFL7CBhKhN3N2JWE7R8TMpmrKspdvF0OJMKJb87_F6fsE gz53G2Uxkbsfq6ePrVWMkG_A6ZHlujIV30Numg3YYVaj09rTM= w1112-h625-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/u8EmOMZPP1Tc9XYYfMW34j_HC5FxhaCnj9NOfSPeN-WWBczMYSLCcS0BbrzX_K39Co8IWPTQwNrrIiquJq-C4zrYEhQ0HNf5lZU5qrgZVHLYuNLLCQwjQH_34UF21OsFcCsyl RCzbnLOULXGKoGTZeowXwcClHVEqr2oksc8068_H-gnbf0V2nUSiKR9ScdRuNhmVdZl-XJ3Cvk6olneXeQfjX4nRhuosgw54wPJEinvaBq_dHeN6ww_loW Ch-NNNVD7LgvrcoSQPjZUDMmh4m8wzuDsex-u7-hrsUP-MClPq2dn8sfXaOeni4Nc1I0xIs9UySftbi0mWPMTZ8otvmZuHB ijJkYodvg19tZQnyWpjxP_Fl0XHPOxgYhles3wBjidugJxlkYa B-Oxrq3ZtaNZqfrHPz3glOXgC9eJduhZ9-CCH6At_Cbkpw9QF9y5NLW-lkM1ChK8tYSmYCqKaTVLTVTcgvr2ElKE1Bqfn8P2BK1ZZSfsnK OC3opnvdVY2LY8F4i-0T3IDh0KyD8ZyBXnbh9K9arQRmg0LyGhsiknXAm8jA1ceCu2fs oaEBnJ8JYvTlUDWVtcMCHgYXaLzds2yJVHqII2LBHWwlFWM8Tu pCit2GRLSxeX7KVcb8q-7hH8riKwQHUKefbxEPjAP7uEmjS0uZQ-4JjN2bznX2pKj9ptaPDoQOpJsPs7xtrad2Dsqkyn7fUffTDMGw x4ulIdBOlgjfTI55TjptiGFcvq__GXp6SHsKrG=w889-h500-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TCqX_ajy0iKuSQq74vUxcwXtrAlCteO9yrdq9ojUrZnuFJ32r3 kL-_5d-SOWcToQRcS7dpA6j5P9O5dplq0flQd_HzOK8zQ4gMOUO0YGk_F ADrPPgkIIbqXp4L1aJYxIWu7E7DsPxiJvs8678t9-X64kxY5yYx2JyF1Ko44dpbkfzFyNBBl4Y9TMdJylfZrtoN1NpE 9qB2R-y6jvTOgDGiNxrLbzc6je423SInAonigW_2YvXWeCtlpHjJBSY0 f1b3ZeASPsFGD4-ftH3WT-4aqmvUAL3gd4X87uKPLenNwuTy-dRvxYUfOvp-_NigzYuhaRC8A6xyilJgmKLapvfdGUT3NatvI_EkZMWJhqkLAu Hv5-GwNuHvSePF-6vA8ZygQ04YSHtzPlitW996FcgF7xB7k9MGSexLxGU-st3HKgVLn_ZA_CATBSe6xKGVLyzw_qK1gf1NsnFZHnVjoO6wS3 j3MatEFSo4HfhJiPK2L8_dqAkAJiEdFJLVOIcZ86_wM1Rm-Gz4RUG3mCYdyK_brVddsLaRQRtBK3hZP4MHc702hmNIU6_5KlJ PneivZk4bFbLDSQk8KvEQs2U0MI87cxvzCodbMQjTEzg6xY_d0 t70CCS9FpS29rWwoc21Nm13AInaR9K5Qjt1tefIvMpnCPpC47R Jc-QS8jXKYuq85wipfVJqN0YRuoqrcZYCRrt1AA5aqxYRVXxL3zcd 0EH-g9qKDKeOj1-AESkwNmEU_x-qdis984RxvA=w889-h500-no
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOeDKtHjXpL7Hcb2cGkJjYUSKi41B3_lTRJp9R2Vf2Tzq sNxCOf974dpw8KDPT4ug/photo/AF1QipOs7njoVOIxqQp4DcpNKKnbs_t-U7fuZlYw_mR3?key=Sm11RE1iMUVqeGoxbW5TOUczVHJybVBxO Wdmb19B
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vWAFsWVr74add49lqLzjbbdYZEgxgfw-QTY6AxSyspMkuyFyULDhNFWayYIM4YG3Eio8wVB3ue0OW9sdMS WoKAl1HD96EialmDNpoe22K-rnfBNYs_xCfSAzZodu9dPrEcyT4wDfdwUXpdggK8Z1qpxd6vMq ZTYWvNvqtO9GxE4uY-2YU2Tv3skIYZQD-ym4DFhq9DGesGjZtI4H5A4CbzhrRexES1XXbfgKR6xSNlAf6Nd QY-J3ZkP6zF9udiQOJgI14v7hSXmagDSPWkSUFa46R0oKQr8L9tTC Nn1sIG-oKHR5ZmrDSN-mwrnwqsmrareJDnyP2FdAnzYIAo1IQ-gIUrayMFanLdsMy-HDz_b4PvXo9Gk5oPVd-NgpWeKt1XgEDN7zQCrOBV7BKgZF8dccf4neeMs_YVbz0IivG0k gqwYZ4X3saT-R3dsssodpE4cD51vdNQw4xagoPIJdpSm2h4VlwymSnaT_6ecNb DfgF4OIicRGiMsiVgGlCUTYxM86GaIZ67Dx3gMHYs3wv2aGz7X 1_nTCkMDGpQsB1e7JoOF5tbu4ZNcd6M5upPi197pwR5htue9fu iE88-4EQs-redc_JnZjMkbcNdImxo0VKxQWGthGv_6n0wlpk8H-aZUettw3760x4FgDENHDR3MI4JZrFDbSfPNCBpCnv2w4ZwaCtD xU2ewW-Qce5YJ50BN1RNWsJRVaOh1Kug_7q8cq52uD4rqTVQFPvMyFPTJ 9Pq4WPJd7LmtD=w889-h500-no
Have to measure stuff.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/i8D_QKlmWvHAU4PKwjY3hhebtLrd_WlAvrVtpEi4BnNIS7sv6m BtEgJS9h-3VWDFUrxSo-thLME-ncYDYte_albqva6IQ0lPfBaR_VbyGL0NGV9seaLX5U-QXOp8sNt3qjWDEx7g7JEmjbdqTwqQY9-P-zWc71xRnjmOExQ4agHs7qvhYoUumLAXyeZSBFjs1-YJRn8sWjA3NhkUE78nPj-0EIJFb2Ptyu_khHhEwOChdi41ua4sSAcJSupXZKziqjumJFKrZ y2_NJwlQkw_ks1L_vxUw2eAksH1WujP52gBKP9zLO33xbE9GsB Zxo9ylcOQ7N1BFzE-rvth_9EYT5SXzmWILryVRtQVcuKQcICt-b-DXSFfcT5qOJk27WO-OxDHH_sZGgSFA4jOjgifNZ862KxD7iNJikFX9Vb8sD5Xidvakp e1eUhOFl-rEiYLAmJ2h6MOcE0idStH70BE2HSLUSn8ROXpA9JRcRg3-nzufmiAymE4BuTu222eLTis3ijMjpgBT68cbIpLLZbHPk7XEtp JkhyHum5weofBnoyShLsHfUhkscWVqFFJnWhXRmMSekOVNPt5w CTbTt0f-Nqxbbs4TmEPqiyBuGAv4du75qMm2Liu8IJolJy-NFFpIPKRCxhqqUhdD_FEG8xE-0JuPCD3VA6aCUx1UnDCaPDSkgxA4_LYV5bR7s-PyVzhArWqcYEB7s96inJqwBdGyy6FipdeTYSLjVFxZXdQtcfMj U2Ryt2Nc4oz=w1112-h625-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HQoLXhO47DPB-xKPML97-vViyQuOL0qRn-Ajp7v0cA1rxx85aARbQe53UFOu8DoRx_NJDFkq01SVa4_lFufp bG9KJBzQrEQVh001Yl02B9ScsowtGtUu-J7EGbS5M2PcA7NqTY4_COVlz8jjVAgFPZOv425UR2GOk6nu90Q bfH_VZAwybnYz7jHAju8kuGesJfnAzfRBwcVlf7ia01GbiCDxx U9t3StrxHEQx1ifMrbDUZFAjfSaSrJJxwUlZKgoqd7Yx0a8bwT GqpKIvQJmUwcX7gOe10LN3B8X9QX50stbaVoVvm9YY2vCpU16Z RMOWjImuts3B9eAjpmBhAY5aPxdtiL-ZuoQE_hplQ3KwXvwPWMmWCce8cEwWrx1b1PEtYUIRbNB-gV3lKN4n7TLcPlqPWRCuRhK2uCi9eXdcurU3gigq2TqgZ-FlQhe7pwg-zqd3SJ6D-VUnuUwzDvJiN4Ar33LmSFzIqEZNVnarRa8V1lolYRpudNYCtzn 99EQmen2RHP2j44oZ22iovd2jJO9fNL1J69SK555GsSIuUmFCM sEGxdQ-H7rgF_vJ1kAtgQr3MiU5Gi7Dw4TjMVJ39lJsS6DjjBs6pU_ZQg dTwVeh_eYasMOLseSV_6W_7XC3FM1vKVBRk17OLxQucwD1-RqvDwtfShvhNXI8It5lCBwBXl264pddktRPi5sBJbERn_hPqhn nk1d6UjmJJjAxG7j9NkuD0tUD4qyAXxqudaykrAUSsnJqSgT=w 1112-h625-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Tbpth_xTx2JuCWevXQBmNCwHvy9ypiM76wKSWt3XoXcU6oLS95 TJE9w44fQoKzHxTk_3LP6oulechUZLFGf8fXQWu-lZUsssGxQaH7yocn09OFFmc1aM7voS0eu4KsSZVf6PY_n8UAaB xdksK-w31WWtR4227PQmjX8vEmCrDNIB8-8yZbm6pPWbp7o8yhu1HDEHMddXDpjZ70mrH5IsTZuwXD2IaVLD 68iK3xGzRQDaPsg0SKgwO-1O8_af7jMeEoRsR7wMMMLyVo78Znpc7kjrOa2dlvXVw03Qctxp-TWtWor2bZo1GbCz18qJQhtTMJnQIK022D-A5MMDeHNxVelO9yDMJQfib3g-K1KIZvZ2QCLMPSyDthTG-2IEQC9tB45hgovMVHeNCT2pk-19TCLuzoWAdBluSmVz7izcCOT19nhoU1GMBj4Mm14g7VH6wbtL 6SGgDFa8p7wUnVQ4c3tQerz6lSi2LRW6mTVsqCubnET4Z19LlS czk7L4IS4PAy1JYJtG-klAFjvz7QcrdtGRTAmjwkjI41ix-7N8VXnFyIcUObwhg9qnoCt2XJuOFISeJIOPW1t-4MveFY_B3TmYxTw_QxxgpfRTxQXe9DFG5crdD0Bxuos2K32fJp jZJMyLtfB1No6BN2q9KyD380azhR3a404tgZpYfH5p3OHv-qNipq7wEbaDZtmLNlnTH9y9ye7i6hZ5hpEBQqo9Apk9_BDtsG6 1SiOqo9rJTy9AbOC_GoouB1gI=w1112-h625-no
Still need inside axle cup. Half the vehicles at pull n pay have the aftermarket. Worked on one for an hour before I noticed it had the wrong damn cup. Now I need another bearing as well from the long side of the front axle. When I finally drop an axle at the pull n pay, I plan to take as many of the relevant parts as possible while I'm there.
I?ve been lots of places in my truck with zero suspension mods. You just have to know your limits.
One of the most entertaining things I watched out on the trails was a guy with a lifted suburban going somewhere he shouldn?t have gone. He messed that thing up pretty good on some big rocks mostly because of the long wheelbase and the horrible approach and departure angles. Two guys with Jeeps finally helped get his unstuck but not before plenty of body damage.
I see grease on the ring gear.
Doesn't this diff require pinion depth and backlash adjustments once you change things?
I see grease on the ring gear.
Doesn't this diff require pinion depth and backlash adjustments once you change things?
Yes and yes. In this case you remove the ring gear, but you don't touch the pinon which sets the backlash. So everything should be the same. The instructions, and all the install videos, have people using grease to install the locker. I haven't put it back together yet beyond the last photo, so I can still clean that grease off. When I put everything back together, it all spins fine, but feels a little more "sticky" than before. Not sticky like a mechanical interference, just sticky like I wiped a lot of lube off during the break down and it got replaced with grease. I put grease on that ring gear to see if there was a difference, but I couldn't tell. I need to research if I need to clean that all out before I put the diff oil in. Good to point it out.
After two days and probably four hours of rolling around in the mud at the pull n pay, buying a few new tools, ruining some clothes, and getting a hand from at least one random dude walking by, I finally was able to drop an axle and get what I needed. I really didn't want to go this way, but after buying and returning at least four different axles, and looking at, at least two others in store without buying, I was able to determine that I can't buy the OEM style inside cup. Having this weekend project turn into something that was taking a month was really pissing me off and gave me the motivation to just man up and get it done.
I would have grabbed the entire diff in case I screwed up my locker install, but the gear ratio is different in most other models. Same diff though.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fFE3JAQqNIcjOFe268QvMsAssqfIy9qoGkfOuZQpzKy6qbi58C JjCpGaLGJiBpbgIFd3R08aMUh-iBy0yTzJivGEH_B-pUnd_PX5-ripy2eGWqps_LIc_6H6sFWhY3EG5OfJIlho-BMWYGe1xeg9hNSm2u3OJj96wxKc1yGhyPIlA_bvjVPbBC9cYRF FFXASANMBBf2umkjp_jPxxKsR5z_V-LJcpTFYwl89PDaYduBM3c8h3n84exSyLnqrFYn1QwmUoKBrAtr EBw2pwS5Klx9rc0A0lC8mjFlXvosYR-ngf12zyIQCgSTfIS7EWwoHsapnWifWWIPyFBwHW2-fFuXjqzIWLlQ_ONXTGe_3Yg8g4UBodkg8XJTLIXCQ_s8J0NhhT pk3O3HO100lG4OZDNq0E6WuYaqC21pD9zMEToYZ_NI1wk3ZXHh EJ5t9BkqsuWU_-JOpn8rOekphKqquSEbMT4nl7dntjvRIx_789lXgmcU7LsPWR9n SjLA5Tux-NwjkKk24SwW_aIqSYnCkyDWugIm5CsAtpneqRWbwHi41PG8vAR 9e8-gcAKNc69ubE0Wpf3vslDV4GdQxCA2aEMdpRHw55Mf_1Ek409gh 13zZ3Nfj1VhBoHauZHmR1wdLCSpofe6XWi0RoL3brxArwJjy65 zA3aAcHPUuScEUpuQEpgqtCBzWoXtt06HdsDIv7TFWRTCTQbTH p7cYHiQizdlsU0pIyLY9rOyWfXHm1jaysVzPsEy5QBS8=w786-h625-no
Parts I need!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PrvdiNwhtHTgEmOZfWXJE4QKQ8zIbzQ4lu1rC7zK1Jn9MHsngO dLi4gRFnEZECpPF15x7UUqKq5eUCACY1XPDsy4CZckS-UvrtjGX1TWrqcVJ3gu8Kzf6FW0aN0X-VTVUwc5mOpDKBE_0Uyf4pPiaEYDYjoX5TKIk3XwBsnZyXPCzvQ 3L9ES3N6CDCPsF5fcLwNnxM3RzbqmeFhLIsun9q6aZSz2mjLlI s7rotjPxHUCHreIb0SIK2e02vPVTtmFBqqmp84qmX2Rpfby2_l kAYe5zjG3l9tA-Z6lhqfCc25GXKHI5XCmhk7SgwTJgx5z3Du8ooRToT0ZUEFomdW 7YBa4RhVZCLGSQz5zZKbnacfwyPemzHPf3OI6qAjsylgEmHJRb _Yok3K9sFeThf4DRD1ZB-j-lm7Ccn89hhAsnylJDBqYVPZSZo57ZUIaHepUhjcSTdFytZ5WPy wJS-e102s6LgCZaUDpZahNailzcBgMTr-BH3SDzTJqGSHY_pkYt6iWMWLdo0rG7I34vybF-PZIm9EVICZPrOhhAr5EGtxOKqMjkbX_2rW7AoUc0XHyqhpfn8I dDaHMXqs1oy5gDZ5fuczGoRqkrvE4YOyZGDv9lGURZzWLGZSgq x4fyVuNom8lSheRE0P8td3UvK26mjapyCXkLBuLSZkBcpo0-A3h8Z897U4LfFHBbdhkjfrqNZOTWU2w3vkLbjSLVpsTRbtSi5L v_Hoo5FTb36YB2H0LSo7_0eScMypK=w889-h500-no
Oh baby.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/s7Nq82srfwRv6s6SB6kFZtyzeC_qmEEcKV6LenNWys45ORlvr5 PkPz99nwsKTZiUGXZ35Utm0CpsZqI5UeOTQjPl9w6Co5x9F3H2 8G2D8QN4131iIdq66SW2iaf8xH743yPJxHjKblhm6tyYiwsuBb isCstACsWi-EwFZWh1M69obYP5UsFW4uPjU-6LlU4NxLJXLLuv9gQbFbS_kCekJRg6-40qTdcLcR8DhTAf7yhN_w58AZKqPPKpngQHln5T78um2rBeyI0 eXnqOu11XccIamFueDFg8UsXjEElIPAoS_YbSFmPsax0Adiq8a jciHWGXOib0D6oTyujckBPrBHBWW8RxWRcQLZQb_NUlFp8ps6S IoaIuhPTQsK-9OJ0V8_7nEy57i3QxZqt5PGsFtXqnNq-SVK3uGxFBKdq32iuB15Mkztvc10rwv0SQAG8X9LwRfgUNVq2so nuiXhgY4Z_39oLXIyQjjkfoK-h6rkfMk0GoJSTrdY7Tc7BEsmD2I0O4w6Q_6XRRCd0Z_n1yLK2X IgomygYcia0yVJf0DwHUJZ9o66EoFiu8aqUKYxCNGKmg8erGL_ muPDMdL7tOafKRfiEkoST0I6K1__W--V_CoYCrwTbqN5894c9k_EBsIyFy3rQ_MS317hT3bzlfLKRhq01 DgpRTvxbgfqFnzsMGYY3MPbu65K0dCw8dpy984caqPt-TDEncuQYsEMp4LNN5oTtlCv78A0F8U6680n6r4QdjD0MbQbyL= w691-h500-no
Pulled the long section of the axle as well, since I screwed up a bearing on mine.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mzDb2-5n3nmtW70-tRt1eqNeftPLTNphue7C9pXLD_foxzXWWp3iHaVP6Tb8DP2EyX U0uH9CdtcRX3yG_M76KQCHO5eZRHOlR0Z9hS_4vzikuhAC8e1a fQOfpkAlvBXtTaWxJeAQKEhQTcMlFfZDHwFFrqIdHEJAQd_JF4 HZKWGeg2x-MLGd1rYEBpLSN1mxvzB7QvJs1OwKFNrBX6NM2szDymheTJjE-koVOgl20SOM5NxLgyWIit-s_64s0CcdzUnZ6FDdpDl3bbdHuns0xApWU9itxxmpOvm2LOeDW NM_G4OyXiWtZCLrsjGcjrd-GmJmkZiPNIwL08dF0G0Qfb6VsQmoQVaLf7Gkc7mXMiUq4dKFjC 4Z1WMoELd1UuP49mELrD2RbYEU8De3ciOxTcKsD1hxYDi0zjPl 8MgAcplfsmsuq_du85P5aaTEyGMZl5zP2y86gJd_N28vjnJ46t h_HnNE-GBdi6zR_37xaNVWl0IFUP72q_g3zuI2qSr__ttUwO5o_E2cJu5 DoyqJarkh2Qa5rx75u-m_0XxXl6ipXUZqkFIf3bCQ7lDyEzyQxaz7EiXCV1uUmqFAKhEs gf0XWXicDTouJkIu72UPLzYDELJ6hdw985BeIQd-10AjsjZczL51i-G_zUmE4FoSXNoySbTwgUGM9TlA-qHeCw_CLYfVNjeVeVI4eKBjC-jeZNWnGh05uHHYaGtrFvQFy6Pzt3zzocnaporTuEy-l11IaCOVy2Fx-sST=w790-h625-no
Progress finally being made. Diff drop brackets. I posted up all the paint colors I had on my Instagram and told people to pick. Of course all my friends picked Wildflower blue for the brackets.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IbaPU43zTfFMt9UXKKDlIiW68MVADACNgmupmvCx07sNIDUyJh kxJeSNAKWqhoLjXZjk3c6htllhUxPnrLkSiNsfiOip4U_LV5IX 3OqYPFYUWGJiweebD1rss_CPuUZt7q_NYp74ohQ_rSrDp52xvU SIjBqTzp9FSy7Y_db2ctF4oAEwjTt4jloNLw0B3sha_rjHtKqo petmpfswMpEQdsyIb--RLFqc01v64lbQEhvfH2lsaO2z1waC6E3S_He8PlH9AhktI26H8 jBq94uHrOxExhVgJ93501jNairD2k8VmkWt9kAiGPUY40lXBtT Og7XffF2rJ_UctgmHKSiwlDf4QbpYyZJaMxvgwtwx5u4cwWJ-SeaYW5iFMXF63CJtCBvzDDHwADe80YeeV94uL05K7zAfDNK262 8PpfuOkSp8RBBRKWLK2zt4hp0IjT5Ms3blnSN_ECFfaCad2giZ TNi0CYVXrtQvP0gXkda-apfixfoBTEiWTJ5GTiR_RSuTa4KL2RL3BPrGJnKjbxCjQYUedH 5S3-l86Lv36tmaOla-XmWIjdeW4JUt05pnhlQy0IMI2IQWtAGT4KaIpTmMpuMhLiMbIP ey5y3DatgPlGBznCp7gm4Rn4jKMofywFGyYewSKpBZeZN55zCL EQ8Bg5Sh-3xIbiUK0q1HxcfqtXJwBNdv7Jdug4JZ1Vojsu3fmV3CCzkynI8 CUXW3b0YVlUGlVq0sdnhytFKx0N_snAfhctJMZlqR3FyH=w737-h500-no
Here I am using the tip I read on the internet. You use a zip tie to hold inside snap rings tight. Then when installed you cut or burn the zip tie out. Worked pretty well, but I'm not at all confident that I got all the pieces of the zip tie out. I'm also not worried about it since the bearing spun freely and the only part seemed to be melted into the eye of the snap ring.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OYtxuwpjeJzrREvkIAmi9owWvcYtnNUwGx_cJIWh6xEp8QqwI5 1cdvQ2aZKhzL9ItKIkyDkNhXSqm32wTMlEHgL5x-PnME9GDxkJEK-G0J732n0Lf8Zn28qrVcxeAjJ0s1ydVWCVUnwe9HK34T0tWRhjK vkyfCnuKOueF2aToJC8_y9h2zpv8DQxMD2e0lCEv1E5es-JMbIn2SH1turbK5Z5ZTSKOtJg7gF8c1Cqx0yqQGjK-qVjJw2IHXTts--wuElC9ZD5aU7uyke6aAulolB_N7aLdMbidvZ6ro1Xr4s8z8P7P gRqWkRtEg76mWD2egAM_yx1_bnzVRMnGXElqpxJ88LBx5tTsNS 5p89KMwoUjAh8b0AObrXjfv2eEXUzdi1nfuWzEf6EgU_VLhPfB n58QFU_L3fmRDww1_jx4g7SYp5vLxfzJzAf1SNCfUSd8i6ipgG vi6Mpp4B-79HT0MG_Q7okvEXs2NrYWnnhIrteKrnkyu74EKiyJ9PiMaNTjw UN3h8aPGHWTiNgf0mAitkdc8Bf-AXvOF37Urgwer-b-U3aIc7t012Rs8GoBbyMFCjOZYYdwWcYsME7JMEBrao-CtJm6wiZjBc7UE18Cb20QXp6ztV_PMf_vGDm9JiDrsM_9AzfLr q7BoodZz6F1-q9YGpM2MfFRpbnBv2tYNiEwq9JSefJjhRCVRdU1dJQ9EzSty7e i8kgfz-dqmmSciuvS_8LRHWrfBHcou2i9JKbrrafckd8Qb83=w430-h500-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dZ1eJzAsKb5VhU16SH_9mAlheFIuPl6wz595J0g5vZ7GEywy7x 48e8z_83V7av57oKocp495FwX9FCBH5wAYzb_JqKP42luAcUe5 ovwrtpn0-V5Diw0uKh-5r5GmJZNapcpDy18LNQX61MpXIPN_oBRq4NBiYbAh4HLhm5LQw rvzWuMSB0z3np4lho9gJO7KHG2hFaS810qAychTp2pXuGwr3St CoV8nbXA5Rz5gpytN6WpVc4SemXFGbaQuXBoRAcw0l9wOs6vZ6 nlkCFT2Yn1fDE8Ill8Tz54N_waUuee2YxpLi8_fTXOMnmBjj0k 95d9KUuxrU5s_sj19QL-tLrCEGVED-GJ02-ulEFGZ_uR7jMu9l9c_LFaRTf9WCkK95qKOz3DjzUYHZIJomR8b OLolK-m4gsMUaO33xHFMzCY8_vPeni8lAvwsgbJ9q1f703isRAFXoM7Q FzylF39yBdY-ndpyrp4AYkrec74GbFfnf5ww26sjMPQUSevxwN9ik6NNSmkUGR z0quxoDGKgIQLJtC4zPpZkOxysDKXW9uQGoHlJNfeRQ2DQIyoo Ic_FCWmtQ947bKqWmBRDfKxvJLmrBo8ECtoBYHBkUZ5EqYFbGm dCT0aNR5T4iMtTc7E_22donHwi1IWhwNTnyd5PCzZg6EYtVe7a gX-NEzDu4rJ_dcwYHmVpOpqQc3WMfrBArLjkfOH-lc0pcrZTeOLfm3xlFVOLKSH7-g6DJZR4JilUiUofirb8dfP6=w419-h500-no
Now I can finally start putting everything back together and finish the suspension.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fVK-z63JJ7h_mlmtjQZT8lg4kWAnW1_93jLi2rMqlvHgQzT_XW5fSK DKecAcVdjjVIkLgNs6bt--w4eoZHpyHuRi2jNJbpCQKhA6gYRr-5L3FE-FXPA1mR9o4p-fgiyU_jSIn04GOkJw3zPHduWXwIS_QKL7VoACvxC7_La9fzAJu vOF36USuhmvIiH7L3Szok5NFgz_Wud-58hWzaFdH4NIK3EUimSDsmtsAN_Nu2LdBIYXPtLSOMLPoGHFQu 3hBuQ29Ce5ajKALnchH0YDAa8DAR1mBydyzQ5gu3iRVVQJO_CU 2ci_pCPTSd1SmshkbqA_Oq131MQG-dRfdJ7RwKzqfsF6HadIwmKQ3C-O71dmfvVXySplqh2xMGwRQPEyzdReF2G6FTc01xxIMBFKRLdec syzu0ylxM88MJeWUQca6NoG91bdZZo8WXkGL65OS7fob-lWEe8W_mkCqMUnLHHGJ2CgdsWjCzhp1aVrlMfixvM8EB6aC8w4 lwdC3eLze6OIbhc2Focryv3Qo1VXY9tab_DtShPUWvDgqm54z5 K3dtH3kupxCr1SFEP_VyTrH6aLRdCtydK1slCfhwtZ1w648Yuf X7H8pMPZH-1hQ3ipIoz4_EHBfu1C1_BcVmsJiAzGeZFXXs5qaRjXdtH5_o0x kC-B3JnjA-lWUZyJ7huCdXAiULOqBAZIPx6lQgftIIQ-f9BqTeBc8FVy4fhRfgB0gjdIcf1XTzShFByuLcKEJmN7HG9m1S nU=w588-h500-no
I'm going to make a goblet out of that freaking after market axle cup. I deserve it after this stupid goose chase.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ehM8rb-ghxj19dxr5EjuzkAw1SW0Qav8RQdHZ-ivG-ddq7GiT78BI5r0whmJs22yMrrQ4Jcqbk435f91NAcMK7xCi7nS Xk_uXs7d79T413BkgQ-QWfzwtTiScqrN1GpDIg9zqvsba303WMjnRtMHvkVTZDzTORFme G9Wj2MmpG-dKYbjtT7KyaThBA9fFgC8NNTIDdwTtTsbS3pLs1oWuZGFhzGQa WUBOTqDOX5fLRswcgGHfHM4Y0vgXLA_MkUTPvVsHtVpLjP7mJs pGaDWqc12-b6YuGxTb54n2x49EUEBqYTIfkUBjBxU66RoCj3m6inz5htaC3U kfKpUlKmHtwOwRcXASk5YwaixHlwBj7Gkdfo_QQhSZBgkna45z H5qTIFDC6E3Qdmav0mD19-E_xjKC_xy-EQTp0N_BUN_a247_uzB44ud-E06MPTumK26xokpVGQ06UFX9UlxCB7XCAVJFn_kzzqaeSVFvaX 57NRPo7Y5LFZCjWdPEGaB8OOTdku669psAwzjBlMoTBkleMfis MbtcMFOFJO08VV4zGiOLN8IvaVAoLPhkbu0-sPaFUuI6DQygdaYd9beECxpNs8RG5evB9PKMBq6BfoX6jZRaNf cGsdEKiClK1gf5EhSgQavvteZRoQrv3yVFY3B0_mUFA3ccB_l8 yH9CmKH-ydc_XNfVXwa1ji40t1yXRBanQORuZTqdhZODa5ti9lkTNBn61P SEFIKbvbRfGsr1bs6cFRDTOlja530=w552-h500-no
I'd rather use the OEM style though since it'd hold more beer. Maybe I'll grab one off some other truck the next time I'm at the yard.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2iD0XK9HKS9JyQUqv_ZSV-DdhNojrU8gNOfBe04eAWAf-VnD22xFACZvg7ZhxLlsy1hf7PdYyFwwBSz3OYsWU6rtBjPhePB uajRw2r47VDxd3bgYG4zVFK_4aSZ-fqKxN5NINPGhV_KjOswFQWmbXQyFo5eRdfK_vOGlhnT2aqTen0 8Zmjch5ICa17SpigNoQ6bMUl_BJXnA2ZNvLUNXNiauxJofAnx0 U-XObZnrWZR4olnHrgpTtnNYfOnKdC8JkbSgfe6XjndQA5rXdYah DHbh8f9jY_8gieYwyZSSB6jsPB3M8aaInPxs1czIBlADjwcwIp olJUoyOSkfOQBykiOYJhm7PK22yf8CSon7QvRBwuAlCEGG_wk3 vWrd3z8Z7tqYXCEUbAGN9CMNcvvpBSv5Q0TvbPRfD0Uir2_8Gw mBac0iWUUo3s8hJRBEeIbdHAxm7H_EB33bCIBFd-bwJeJXBU16rixCK7WA39nHdfWF4ghTm_HzXuPzg3Y0URhGcxpX sgxWlzOlBtrEojIe88hf_w1X98Gclcos_Q2BuDyaNjS1JnCI_B-24cmmZfEzfcAD1dk9gcLJN_Kcc3qDpEuwxIFQdToHwZapwirWR UuKW2X8C56fC5DtbXCMtzXfdaYuu6RTS460fwvMMWruzZIkNC-M6YukuFBR97D_bBIXDqM4sTyuAso8ZpdZlN45g-a2StRcDsTcXftyj0tkhYVgn6rZXtp38HwPpNzqvBpsCZvevzUs dha2=w631-h500-no
Side note: Here is how the 4wd is actuated on this vehicle.
The top part is what connects to the outside axle cup, and therefor spins with the CV axle.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/l8s8f_nUZvAc59s0-fALRE-NEvSwzxqOTbU1Zce2z5eykdenLTSIbh9VupbymjRhdffjD6i0_ c5BPiEPGV24DhhN0u_tb8etu6-hQ75DVrKhtosUQVsiLT-LSkiiR4Z3ovA6-Mw3HnHXQ7NmFb8l92xJMlDUTxthwCzyNurcEqjHER5-nL_L0BZFh8zCG6MQNVowobQb2EtRLiQi3CH0q6A2fOhcfOQzd8 bV5-7voP2yqcN2r29-x1ZzO2vZo_9HlQK6CYeydeyvxkvrZgyMk91TDBOtMJMTGdcbaL 4Ub1cI5HBsamw46NsYgfyRu1U_kpUkiplPSpmrbUIV5-Wy8Tzi939HWw5d8YpdbfYvUbAEZETAI-3r-Dvmwf-rYAmfjZLvpSgZkRA_RLXb0vEATV5asX1NxvBdYsle8QkKM9mHc tUO2U-VvSkKGTDRfaceKl5q2mx4rSRdsDu0gMQJ7TRErld4pNZpZDLC6 sAp_JtXwjV5-cI1lLoQ69lfD1ITgJ2ejWuDoxokx2ZKku_XZ8uM9-Anhksks7R0YaxcxSmGVF65m2quBkRT54bl_RRgGzTpkGSmco2Y dQy3w5K5gh3yKMxBvjDJTqrAsN-vJ1haY3sSLCHU_VaheqCZkcqAfn4cPffzTbx_23j8dBUI3B-qYPKFcLErG7XUII4-lVR22jUG4fbufqBspsbL-nOk1ndVw1gtBu8Gno48sT1Uaec4wLox1zhSu1ugasarQ31-Cq19QIOgPgg8=w1112-h625-no
There is a ring with a groove in it. A two prong fork slides around that ring.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BUXp0ahj3WdFqjxJvefgP_rqx2_t3WjZ-fp_UdxbyvkdN9kKT4zKYiDAiFnyu8qEc0L7XNPcN9KxSL9g6M6 GVvEsEzaqryPKjXFcV9orVOEqqU4y_1akgsPjYqrs0qu3EMTfe MDat6Dw9372Pzig2bGdgzyWXlTFEHEq8C-CV_jgCZEICVrEeCWWm3oKC73zu72oGo1srbm9cEO-lRZwmWLHLKZFMlx5-mcWXJKhYLGI6Ie1vr1H-GIeKkb9iMy4LXBbHm8fH7XOcLtVt09Bwz23lU3glwdo7Ts8AS1 TrBUXCeTqKeudMrAb5-FVr_77SeJN13LlEd8VLA1rtcrIV-dkpUEadZ6ky-Ue2hn-0rl9aPr3iQHv4KEcvy1EYw4u2VcRouHVyprYEHkll0904_3NKA e1t8DzUEMsMsqI43dABa9ZMkXoxM2LGX0Y7pDTgR9HbH4oGOts UYFRCBCfo4S38y6AI-Xrs26sRwkavcBHcokgII2wa8CK0seZolAc9ZG19EEM_yeNdAtF 7LT6gx8RggQgqGt7JjdGK3qxVJFgYDZJdgzYbDYMDBmsune5Dl LEoVAG6K-bJn-yjB4hOOnwSZ0TSG1tbscOLeqr3rdklYzmeUP6UR--7r_HlvsSP1XyLKu_TvFPjV_UG-599OaGWlCpdGnasDkxF8KCxzDp8O4gIBT3V5p8lzqugftkChJ4 dFkLiWF0QOFQezn0-_0EfP-3EH0LK30S-fdZlkJIBRm1cCfJ0J01=w889-h500-no
When you push the 4WD button, the fork is vacuum actuated and slides the ring up over the top shaft, connecting both shafts. This means that the transfer case is ALWAYS spinning the front driveshaft, front diff, and this long shaft, at all times. Only when the 4WD button is pushed are the CV axles engaged. This is also why you don't really save any gas mileage by getting manual hubs. It makes the steering a bit lighter, but you don't feel the increased peppy-ness that you do when you disconnect the front drive shaft.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eQhb7d92kuGxL_mRthQSci4P8ebsI1Dz1FSQ4fVsFkaR2L06G8 dzQ3CqE-3e0zOFXiEVQU20JaVVSjZ7HDpdPUe3xkYBobZQzFhJFYseDatq dQEqsRzoOpzjX0kjhAqIckgAfMAu_6QaIr7piLiH8myroi-yuCYS5arnQU2J3sesoX-66jtUZ9JW7jt_T1xQvA6gRJASHWB43ZATmoCtfwH6CgLYVN8Dz yg7tnJb75H-FPdnMlgZ6Yr2lO1D6KJ-GreAxQV3KczQQ4jblOcXnP1z2_P3hRE7MQK6gUrHKs6cGKrzQF FyQppstPNwJCFpbA5b53KbR3qpQGx8CRmBP-D8rReBh31Wp7hnVDEN06WRXR5IElL_CJbeDtcsTymA5PU7gNhI kicnC9A5UTEGXU49ORPkJ97uWF_FEuqKlIEp8qDeQV3QfmCQOH joKq1WsEjfC7amitVzi5dZuhEsh593LgSDdOQLsiGRV_R6b7q_ NdO0fbOtnoin4UWjUPEzjH5qJ7Lw9gohkM40_f3hZGYsd4NINF giFAfQOxk9Ipbj0xKow6Sx6UDC_UHeAeE2NKDuyH6uiTnKq_K7 bzryfi4IqAPvNsugdrrKfvOsOTdvBXkwGvjtcuf7P50tbJqtDN ft43AYOPKfm1HRdgfU7_845O7cB_0z2ajbJBZs6yuWCHLXg4cf z_5MaZ_ql258EAAyPc1mJmvVUl-ytIYWay3YgvymnlDepCFpbbJPOAeHbhf__FUtdAD2=w889-h500-no
If anyone ever sees this car up in Fort Collins, it's my buddy!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uSNwtKwyt45WvBJ2j8xbF1dnZ7zfd286y2IKWBgC6zYoFzw7rN QWez4FtB70TikWvv74BAjEejH4d5txxeab0EwGdYHIwSiT8ksg VKL3oIMVx9v9CMr26LKwn6AwpYIHXVZDe9cL0hbuMrDvmnUpB_ DhsymKRfGwlfYsdiyhYiIdx6TUO0MCsQtUlDh8waWlrzdT89WB Snv7XWzxI4aUjMh6MUZb0qvmuZXi8LO_WPUzLUUTLSCC30wKXo PhfmDPvsDigHdaymzw-_tzLfnT9A9qV2bqUtiYfl3hVZ_3ChT0BcQ03RKjZc1efPHOsf8 vRpBOoudTLDb1avbHsdtp7sHWCV740OoSIe3CAdS7ktz-ozplVsLlg6FV9_TxBjOvQ67RuB7taJg94xeJYPrhCUYxI4WZmU h-NcTOrh5BwvEPWpI4t3SLcpBafuA6Ky5AHqhKwRWDkiDrh_RjHB NM47vhmgrmuK3XQzBGCKTaZUf9AkeEIEiQxn9c75HX-tvd-KZEBnp_WnnavijJ2NyA2nSDByx9QnLa0ljhKl6xIc2WY4gMzRb 7y5JUCXA8Piz905JPG_KCu1ioU-8Rm-CaCrml_MA7KZYBIWhvqMPRLVJlR5PsdOxIZSnSjoGwx6TKuqpu FX46YaVZOQcj_nIWFhV4OtsMmn1pDXWP1npHhAFRIOoCG7fvW3 Mh23qNpeftJyO30_JN6MmTqWrCi02RjNTI6JtXErkZ4PqmnpDk n0bqmNEPyP1RW_lt=w628-h625-no
^ May I ask what is it made with/outof?
It started life as a 4th gen Camaro. Like this. I saw it the day he bought it. He swung by and had two wheels strapped to the top of the trunk lid.
https://www.speednik.com/wp-content/blogs.dir/1/files/2016/04/2016-04-21_21-19-41.jpg
Wow!
Never imagined it was from Camero. My initial guess was from Civic Si or Golf.
Yeah this is a bad mamma jamma. He was going to use a C4 Vette at some point I think.
Needs some knobby tires for running the dunes.
He put some on at some point. Something ridiculous too, like 13-14" wide. Heck the street tires on there now are that wide I think.
hurley842002
04-20-2020, 10:15
Side note: Here is how the 4wd is actuated on this vehicle.
The top part is what connects to the outside axle cup, and therefor spins with the CV axle.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/l8s8f_nUZvAc59s0-fALRE-NEvSwzxqOTbU1Zce2z5eykdenLTSIbh9VupbymjRhdffjD6i0_ c5BPiEPGV24DhhN0u_tb8etu6-hQ75DVrKhtosUQVsiLT-LSkiiR4Z3ovA6-Mw3HnHXQ7NmFb8l92xJMlDUTxthwCzyNurcEqjHER5-nL_L0BZFh8zCG6MQNVowobQb2EtRLiQi3CH0q6A2fOhcfOQzd8 bV5-7voP2yqcN2r29-x1ZzO2vZo_9HlQK6CYeydeyvxkvrZgyMk91TDBOtMJMTGdcbaL 4Ub1cI5HBsamw46NsYgfyRu1U_kpUkiplPSpmrbUIV5-Wy8Tzi939HWw5d8YpdbfYvUbAEZETAI-3r-Dvmwf-rYAmfjZLvpSgZkRA_RLXb0vEATV5asX1NxvBdYsle8QkKM9mHc tUO2U-VvSkKGTDRfaceKl5q2mx4rSRdsDu0gMQJ7TRErld4pNZpZDLC6 sAp_JtXwjV5-cI1lLoQ69lfD1ITgJ2ejWuDoxokx2ZKku_XZ8uM9-Anhksks7R0YaxcxSmGVF65m2quBkRT54bl_RRgGzTpkGSmco2Y dQy3w5K5gh3yKMxBvjDJTqrAsN-vJ1haY3sSLCHU_VaheqCZkcqAfn4cPffzTbx_23j8dBUI3B-qYPKFcLErG7XUII4-lVR22jUG4fbufqBspsbL-nOk1ndVw1gtBu8Gno48sT1Uaec4wLox1zhSu1ugasarQ31-Cq19QIOgPgg8=w1112-h625-no
There is a ring with a groove in it. A two prong fork slides around that ring.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BUXp0ahj3WdFqjxJvefgP_rqx2_t3WjZ-fp_UdxbyvkdN9kKT4zKYiDAiFnyu8qEc0L7XNPcN9KxSL9g6M6 GVvEsEzaqryPKjXFcV9orVOEqqU4y_1akgsPjYqrs0qu3EMTfe MDat6Dw9372Pzig2bGdgzyWXlTFEHEq8C-CV_jgCZEICVrEeCWWm3oKC73zu72oGo1srbm9cEO-lRZwmWLHLKZFMlx5-mcWXJKhYLGI6Ie1vr1H-GIeKkb9iMy4LXBbHm8fH7XOcLtVt09Bwz23lU3glwdo7Ts8AS1 TrBUXCeTqKeudMrAb5-FVr_77SeJN13LlEd8VLA1rtcrIV-dkpUEadZ6ky-Ue2hn-0rl9aPr3iQHv4KEcvy1EYw4u2VcRouHVyprYEHkll0904_3NKA e1t8DzUEMsMsqI43dABa9ZMkXoxM2LGX0Y7pDTgR9HbH4oGOts UYFRCBCfo4S38y6AI-Xrs26sRwkavcBHcokgII2wa8CK0seZolAc9ZG19EEM_yeNdAtF 7LT6gx8RggQgqGt7JjdGK3qxVJFgYDZJdgzYbDYMDBmsune5Dl LEoVAG6K-bJn-yjB4hOOnwSZ0TSG1tbscOLeqr3rdklYzmeUP6UR--7r_HlvsSP1XyLKu_TvFPjV_UG-599OaGWlCpdGnasDkxF8KCxzDp8O4gIBT3V5p8lzqugftkChJ4 dFkLiWF0QOFQezn0-_0EfP-3EH0LK30S-fdZlkJIBRm1cCfJ0J01=w889-h500-no
When you push the 4WD button, the fork is vacuum actuated and slides the ring up over the top shaft, connecting both shafts. This means that the transfer case is ALWAYS spinning the front driveshaft, front diff, and this long shaft, at all times. Only when the 4WD button is pushed are the CV axles engaged. This is also why you don't really save any gas mileage by getting manual hubs. It makes the steering a bit lighter, but you don't feel the increased peppy-ness that you do when you disconnect the front drive shaft.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eQhb7d92kuGxL_mRthQSci4P8ebsI1Dz1FSQ4fVsFkaR2L06G8 dzQ3CqE-3e0zOFXiEVQU20JaVVSjZ7HDpdPUe3xkYBobZQzFhJFYseDatq dQEqsRzoOpzjX0kjhAqIckgAfMAu_6QaIr7piLiH8myroi-yuCYS5arnQU2J3sesoX-66jtUZ9JW7jt_T1xQvA6gRJASHWB43ZATmoCtfwH6CgLYVN8Dz yg7tnJb75H-FPdnMlgZ6Yr2lO1D6KJ-GreAxQV3KczQQ4jblOcXnP1z2_P3hRE7MQK6gUrHKs6cGKrzQF FyQppstPNwJCFpbA5b53KbR3qpQGx8CRmBP-D8rReBh31Wp7hnVDEN06WRXR5IElL_CJbeDtcsTymA5PU7gNhI kicnC9A5UTEGXU49ORPkJ97uWF_FEuqKlIEp8qDeQV3QfmCQOH joKq1WsEjfC7amitVzi5dZuhEsh593LgSDdOQLsiGRV_R6b7q_ NdO0fbOtnoin4UWjUPEzjH5qJ7Lw9gohkM40_f3hZGYsd4NINF giFAfQOxk9Ipbj0xKow6Sx6UDC_UHeAeE2NKDuyH6uiTnKq_K7 bzryfi4IqAPvNsugdrrKfvOsOTdvBXkwGvjtcuf7P50tbJqtDN ft43AYOPKfm1HRdgfU7_845O7cB_0z2ajbJBZs6yuWCHLXg4cf z_5MaZ_ql258EAAyPc1mJmvVUl-ytIYWay3YgvymnlDepCFpbbJPOAeHbhf__FUtdAD2=w889-h500-noReally enjoy watching your build progress, reminds me of when I used to do a lot of wrenching. Now that I have a garage again, hopefully I can undertake some projects I've been meaning to complete on my Xterra.
Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
My first day to the pull and pay was a bit of a bust, so I ended up helping the guy across from me get parts off the front end of an Xterra.
I definitely should have bought an Xterra instead of my Amigo all those years ago.
hurley842002
04-20-2020, 12:31
My first day to the pull and pay was a bit of a bust, so I ended up helping the guy across from me get parts off the front end of an Xterra.
I definitely should have bought an Xterra instead of my Amigo all those years ago.I can only speak for the second generation, but they are definitely very basic as far as design is concerned, and quite robust seeing as how they share a frame with their full size brethren. Ideally, once I get mine paid off, I'd like to do a Titan front suspension swap, and possibly even a Titan V8, it's all pretty much plug and play.
Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
Do the Titans have longer control arms, or bigger brakes, or both? Xterras still use leafs in the rear right?
hurley842002
04-20-2020, 14:18
Do the Titans have longer control arms, or bigger brakes, or both? Xterras still use leafs in the rear right?Both I believe, longer control arms for sure, which allows for excellent travel with the proper suspension components, fortunately it's such a popular swap that there is a ton of options. If you wanted a newer/reliable and cost effective rig, I highly recommend the Xterra. Obviously not nearly as popular as the 4runner, but the price will reflect that, and there are still enough upgrade options available to make it a decent investment, and with the Frontier still being produced and unchanged through 2020 so far, you can still find plenty of parts.
Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
I'm invested with the Trooper now. I like that Xterras have factory e-lockers. What kind of rear end do they have?
Got that heavy bitch back up in there.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VvPYdaIHENHZEJvbisptxIa7i6I1hoft1AawHqryxOEkZn1XsA dA_O3R3f-NYpzQKcNXEfZZYQy64eI5K7l-DkUZpCvmnfIzs4SqeJKgbt0eYtjUw3DuVswyC_3LSY2NktVtvq 9TFiAneF7JzfjgnYlNeKvewK2rogi7ZAxMpy52PASCWVl2mTFh kD6UCTl6GNQSNnrm6gyXUCa-OthxKvMwlfqqjUxb82EZA23F454ZlALTPeLopigmji9umWKMgY RjINpUp5XsFs-jPSKHRdrF4wwEIiwUzeNgDAWwUUtvh80PysNA6XJMuiEthseGm _y8t1-WGfFH6D1g-5tWe1gQMs-v6sdls65vZXpf7qUMTDqs3Kh7fCxxrTG33PWGtGsgHX9NEeDqR 79YFQa-P9wIm9rxWDtQ0WbgHzG-gCMLUExrkHxb6pKwOvILm-HrWKhXlJkt6_Q1yVvz3N8pZqTr5ad_MN3xggDOh8B2FEpU-Godq_LcLz3TiyYR07P5IWO8jh87oldvUGcj_Ec0LrommlH4W-qxvGiZ6QKpN_EylrInnrnCZVQxlWiKJSYwrBiogX6zueC8cK4D vRQJlmbV1WpCvq8uBK6jM5AIJrIfW6-9cAIiKj3Bm4iePvcy_tg-W8ooP6raKJPnyHfG8mUNWenwkzJ_83aaKr62Hutb_7H_CnnGQ5 YXOMptvC1uin2HUjwFQZ9uKnS0cWN7BY9kSVrkQPsZl0brl_WY os5eVP2LHHBV3e4d=w961-h625-no
A lot more room on those bolts with the lower diff. Not that I'll ever need access to them.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/60naKlszyS-BiRUoRI9_xsj5Q_QJAX_AwAlL1WlObqL6rhi9eVbApVpXAzNmj NdCVXXT8Ln2rAvlBUKb1a4TBzRlgJ4V46WKtIJtwFlICx9l8p_ N4aFRnnZOlegda5XN3ONKWHPs08eF7hMC22nij86mn7L5teiSv jRcJQ8tnWi1nrZLZposxeliDS6EFsmMq7FA8A3fwR_oPFVgsML YtnwXtblnpNgiQyMhYkQazcR_BkFWAGJvXdoPq5evQiyNrXHPI gZUivkxYOTC44e0t2FkS4a434-mAdDtaC26ZXw_wDeuijpy3e060ft__175dS6HAWhDLXRx9oLaI jJAWeG8vQiOwnI17TCVqs0oVvfmjlp4_W6Z7vU7SzyiPH70zrE 67MukdcdCRT9XZ-WPAW8RcPYuFfdG33rZa2he1YWqF6G4QjlRpufk4j5PZGtfaXtA vrGqAJhhrazj07Sd8R39kkKqPUlXE2VFCfGejGnDVJ_6qaxf79 jfZ4o-2xWW4g5tvIFzdVIHV9dXe3Dp5HeqcK2W4n5av86tvdyBWHCIEv 5puju31I35Ah-nGnZtndRjqAsFPg_ReBRUkpvityCNVOzrnb3H9UztAntQChyh1 MgD_61N7HtHwh7QgjrsM_HkFBroFasrjLCAiYfU_8KquOTMiVa HosCDVNAJaDDwvQAzJEg-n8BL6BOuDGzjXkKsP0uaaJarxnsGsVTpa4Q7SRkzGB2Vw7eiVd bunJpGvaO_onjRar4p=w696-h625-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wszx5pIC0cMuMMD_oTw5-tJVFkvkj70X_FzWk7hY_akddhsfZZbnET2E3Duz9GOVZeLEEbp vV1GGQ5_8wRwVv1LEEhHIG9Ohy1lz-V7Dz84mvQbqF4tATYnAlR0iJ2VwNQpGBrCDEAiSRelJpxp4JJp JoC4mVdax2m-7FlpasVN4o82LRYNDCt5_HmhQ1p9GAtf-18pPM71Hk6nSIXHlifKaboWzCLhGNw3GsDPs7FavU-xHRcfYpDzpy8ft_Tsy8Y055F5AJKqE8abH5L1c41gNxTtf-GuGJ4mRF49aXYRboBM6Z1cW7vLYFEAiBH257c_VAFYse55TJJd yu9vFJJ_WXpugH0ivElgYqqnpaTmiw03jhVr8Mcp9M-zI0GEydpp1aNF07yjYy2j8tceZYtEkNf2F4RIV-5i4CjZD0dnSO076EuUdjgTtL7U0ZXzcCyLI8E3fbyem2uF-u_giPeqV8u38gT0_TS9IkLkMdlYzxZCxQAbqYD6avCfU2yKteG ST7pF5Bg_O1nyrvhn9nNbkKnr2R7Iih-ca1iwN0zITJTIJr50COMQzLpuFsFzYCgnGdgzz3hv_kZPubCmL o-1-wdeH5iUuuZ1v3n4maztcE2DpQDV-LvvFbJq1cn6gebYEUCqNqfKYnjbqHJBBLc6Gym1cZmdeF3e6BS G4Q66o-P0vqVTQ3AWEb-wN2UJv_egih7XiKaIyAPQNKQf5zltInD4_-fxJd_uHYc1TrK9qu0idDTmrNvhP=w761-h625-no
About scratched all that paint right off getting it in there.
Now to reassemble the knuckles and get the new ball joints, axles, shocks, and tie-rods all connected.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nIV32bKidHFdo-VQWcdE2aohIkuNX3HwVZokmjQkaBX_2qP8btDfTdWT_-j1PuV-aHNsbRqy3-Q4l0Ophb9GWDY3OJYwlYrOXC0jDXrMrZU_L193uEzEFIhtYq1s HusipO3IX_nupXITZBCSxtCP9BRSEu-CnudHOoL7hoYUKfZ9jyVdr3StLETCtHPPaPo6Sv8mAu1AWqfux oVXoAUjP3hjlDjkGq8jfSyNO13zpSnyMHGo3sE9C3xS5PS9OM3 X4VtstfnUo0x42JS85rPh11bYsGEuHVY9kluy2GpWALA7z2GYI ySpL01WoPb_tDGJm7JSLAcBIacCJTLHlauVe9vWkZCtcJZpnfx NhsVpzbT2DOyHWPyDEf6d3EB7VZEhxBK3Z_ssMpeTs2zHyeULa 5VW5xU-d5C0nqLfXXIDtuLJmGb9R24oMBroeYMJKbwBRtA5kYIhhkMDxM UNKESs723NmsCcHWPzEzPj8TrWO62cyNm25Tp4fnDwSmP5FHUk v5607njnKf-P5YKXbJFaUT8OMIWrsndTtK82oViKcglfKL3eJ-N4xdwYQ9tfyVS8-p3oJ6ZUmAtJiY0uZXU49Bf3-f9plqoWufCx5BXyLshvDqtWufLxn80kjdbomlgr6h11u39zBVF 9UpMix_o_sKRfaiKyLRHq0PVF8d1bdSH9vBUEZ11h48JP5m6yN 5MVoZCmz1f3H3XvmfQFa_s-tSAj8lVe0ahWla-Uwdk9j_h9WzyxwlEJ767a=w907-h625-no
Nice. How do you accomplish the front lift?
Got that heavy bitch back up in there.
I'm curious why you wouldn't clean those cups out before assembly?
Nice. How do you accomplish the front lift?
There aren't torsion keys for me. I have to crank the bars to tighten them up. Should be roughly 4 turns per inch. There is a big bolt on the back of where the bars mount and you turn that to lift the front.
I'm curious why you wouldn't clean those cups out before assembly?
Because I was tired of cleaning and getting covered in grease and diff oil for the past few days. I'll wipe them out before I put the new axles in. Just going to get filled with more grease anyway.
There aren't torsion keys for me. I have to crank the bars to tighten them up. Should be roughly 4 turns per inch. There is a big bolt on the back of where the bars mount and you turn that to lift the front.
Does that need to be performed by a licensed professional overhead garage door spring installer?
Well farts.
New truck got a little whacked while parked at the dealer after a service. Still don't know who did it. Lot monkey claims it wasn't him. Mechanic claims it wasn't him. Sure as F wasn't me.
381 miles on the clock.
Fortunately just the flare.
https://i.imgur.com/xy8Rax5l.jpg
Throw a fit. The dealer should fix it for you.
Throw a fit. The dealer should fix it for you.
Had five guys out there looking at it fawning over their apologies. Part is ordered.
Now I just have to decide what I'm going to ask for extra.
I'm thinking first oil and fuel filter service.
Fuel filters (there are 2) and oil change service (12 qts T6), which I would normally do myself, is $180 in parts plus their labor. I think they charge $425 total.
Too much?
Go for it.
I bet they?ll do it to keep their customer happy.
ChickNorris
04-21-2020, 18:34
Just make sure the whistle-dicks put the oil cap back on before you leave the lot. Just saying.
Might want them to address the panel gaps while they're at it.
Had five guys out there looking at it fawning over their apologies. Part is ordered.
Now I just have to decide what I'm going to ask for extra.
I'm thinking first oil and fuel filter service.
Fuel filters (there are 2) and oil change service (12 qts T6), which I would normally do myself, is $180 in parts plus their labor. I think they charge $425 total.
Too much?
Ask for 3, accept 1.
Had five guys out there looking at it fawning over their apologies. Part is ordered.
Now I just have to decide what I'm going to ask for extra.
I'm thinking first oil and fuel filter service.
Fuel filters (there are 2) and oil change service (12 qts T6), which I would normally do myself, is $180 in parts plus their labor. I think they charge $425 total.
Too much?
The worse that can happen is they say "no".
Just make sure the whistle-dicks put the oil cap back on before you leave the lot. Just saying.
Might want them to address the panel gaps while they're at it.
I normally do all my own fluid service because I trust no one.
It was there for, among other things, a cab/bed alignment that was a full 1" off side-side!
I posted the pic somewhere in this thread a while back.
The only thing that's a bit off now is the driver side headlight/trim and the center grill section both need to shift to the pass side an RCH. Not sure if there's any adjustment there at all.
I am not good with bodywork, but minor bumper work is needed.
All I need is top coat from autozone/adv auto.
What I have so far.
'Bondo in an epoxy type syringe.
Special ordered touchup spray (base).
Dealership ordered touchup pen
Sand paper.
A bucket to cover my entire head for screaming, just in case I mess this up really bad.
I am not good with bodywork, but minor bumper work is needed.
All I need is top coat from autozone/adv auto.
What I have so far.
'Bondo in an epoxy type syringe.
Special ordered touchup spray (base).
Dealership ordered touchup pen
Sand paper.
A bucket to cover my entire head for screaming, just in case I mess this up really bad.
Tape and paper for masking.
Beer.
Phone for youtube searches.
Beer.
Forgot to mention that I do have a masking tape and tablet ready for youtube.
I just need to get the Beer, beer holder, or someone who will hold my beer. :)
I'm struggling to get my knuckle assembled again. Everything is taken apart, but I can't seem to find the magic combination for the order everything is reassembled.
I'm struggling to get my knuckle assembled again. Everything is taken apart, but I can't seem to find the magic combination for the order everything is reassembled.
Cv axle too long?
Forgot to mention that I do have a masking tape and tablet ready for youtube.
I just need to get the Beer, beer holder, or someone who will hold my beer. :)
Forgot about cleaner. Wash and clean the surface and make sure residual wax and grime is removed. Dawn removes grease and wax well, but so should other dish soaps. Wipe with paint compatible chems like alcohol or whatever is recomended.
Prep is the key here.
whitewalrus
04-22-2020, 11:17
Had five guys out there looking at it fawning over their apologies. Part is ordered.
Now I just have to decide what I'm going to ask for extra.
I'm thinking first oil and fuel filter service.
Fuel filters (there are 2) and oil change service (12 qts T6), which I would normally do myself, is $180 in parts plus their labor. I think they charge $425 total.
Too much?
$425 for basic maintenance? Sounds like the diesels are too expensive to own these days.
$425 for basic maintenance? Sounds like the diesels are too expensive to own these days.
10K miles/annual.
That's why I do it myself for around $180.
Diesels are expensive to maintain, no doubt. Not saying you can't with a gasser, but I wouldn't pull with anything else.
...or someone who will hold my beer. :)
...and a 6-foot straw.
I didn't top coat yet, but it came out ugly. I can still see the very small stress lines. I might need sand it down, and bondo more.
Cv axle too long?
Nah, the speed sensor for the ABS needed to be disconnected to get enough articulation. Now I'm having trouble getting the tie-rods to seat. I took them out and measured them and they are actually smaller in diameter than the factory ones. I might put them in the freezer for a few hours and try torching the knuckle when I got to put them in.
Put a bondo and made the surface smooth. Problem is that I can still see a bondo mark after 5th base coat. I would need to continue this project well over tomorrow.
So after a few minor difficulties here and there, everything is back together. Thanks for the help on the tie-rod KS63.
I used a square clamped to each rotor to set a basic alignment that is good enough to get me to an alignment shop. I didn't put the lock nuts on the tie rod and after driving the truck for about 50 miles and watching the steering wheel move a bit more each time I drove it, it finally occurred to me what I had done, and then I got to do the whole thing a second time. Otherwise, it worked pretty well.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tYrozuXIxVjnR47uRxjBYOyVbnRfCzDFWsEEzH97YYiNT2N2k1 sljJodWXJM7uZbdUpzVk672mtPsz2t_qTsDmPExjnuGeNY-DjHauU-_1icLm27KRw-KgfbA1wMipKIC9pQUiXVecqYiS0g_X04Rkrp93bBEgeWFvPGv5 1Uqi1Upg3dOkd1aHwf47XF4-SFCHqOgCCnWzExHnykEO1yF4JYsyT71HR8_mngUOfCK-9DO5cUoRjUjcNyAX6-6NrZjM0G0bkPlEbddZ-x2Uu-EaMCBHQyS4gEPxzmxrfOnveU7DeyRd1F6Y85ivGeX7hnRtbgNh kmijXSE56jxOGFs8NfMu7Dkp-a0SLSLSKU7paQ913zEPf6Jyu_Oq8Ndfl_79bOD2uwT22wzByOk hp31drnZTvicdujpA7OmqaginbHawjSMfD2omz80GECzU6I7Yv b2RBrEfBwm_4zoRRe12TLLh5Kv5FiJbPr1-ofjSzWqnxpN79ylMI2V44UKcS2YTxWI-kWCNSeq9QcEAySOV4IgZjhg2gugBPzsKXEcZB6spGKCVqUf7UD 45pC6LD8L9nF_ufwSxw7Sqm1bmjkzQDst8sb88GNN8nu6KJ2qO N--pnQDsWLARkCFuvvsBuWsmYdMxO_0xa_HbF-lFnIh29N8TeYttbdAhaY_ri-WMfUwlLPGkyBJuV_49Eawv_gSPB0oCskgNH_1st-eCYWX-xxzUVG2cTvI0qvJx2WqsXzSmUVotcBr15B=w770-h625-no
Here it is with the Amigo that I sold a few minutes after taking this picture.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bzQTkpSbUOUV8ak25UWpxiEa4FDNtFmb4TlhtLJA1SOHZ2Xoee jPhBwsqezpzmuA8iVz8CETfSvexgwxJVcwgeLBTMuSdgEz8-hswDbEnCLwqqvksv0fadU06Y5ttmb0Pr7gCL_ZrAsgUXLtllQf uBs2m9Qzn4IVrMDywJy4stlUnd8isyHZGA-gQdS29YJK5dqq8nb6xI5o-5u96DEFnqMI4lfWN_zUE45mjt5fd1igeS02nVusEw0wygsRJjO tPBBLWANo44a3SyDKxfdClAy4VATmb-kVmIQd-JS-9koWGuGr7fR-9P86JfCE8_I-0b1ydIlSdcNn9np-Wx7a9Tr9WDMRddgzNRMdjRoBGRhE6wWox-u3NvNuGj-HonHa1H4Vh_P6JeRFRhyS947uNNlh2l8D6MukdHmUmtXS8qqxh 4Pou4TXpF88LDJ2Ze4mPJMQFErIurOQDdXECXzmt0VI8iLjNAR ayScxtCtij0pkhqKk0apygKHADQ_GO1693XmBTeSEoHeqfnRJx 0G7OUzRPpuhdxQTJfU2lPOMPEJPk839-VDMM6qc3yEXRXfV9pOVQg5FcGbgz3_4ZcT7ZxzDG4JePq6cFFw MiJ82rSi_Q-414fcubb26MAIz-ifBJFRtMsfDXBi1JtWfWvL35rzhyBsCoMsuu8jTc2tNJymsYqd-NOvWoCJMdFj0cJ99_j0UQi_EbGURhSb8jE2ZbsW5FBihTZ41zK COReHv7yoUTbaqX7Nf95Tf=w788-h500-no
The rear springs and shocks were easy compared to the front. Only took about an hour and a half, and most of that was dealing with a rusted on shock bolt that we just ended up cutting off. At full droop, the springs pretty much just popped out, so I'm concerned with having a way to keep them from falling out at full flex on one side or the other. What have other people done?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EIpKjNtgGkI4AzyLUrmizvS2FqCAVDUAI5UzsQulmv9l431fLI THuqyF75F9875eB3vlxdvjJ3bSwKFenTnOU2VZuzYHCZBXF-xDfGyxce0nwEg9KDmz1r3BgtfgneQW8h4_zfAdApDW_iLPbl59 RVIOePSwx_7KF9RC7j4Laht0tXlgWoqmg5-jT8GFENnTNZfsQapkYjlu0zjAQDNAVEAYGI_6FcmjcpbtMcq7B O5hteZ_A7kEvzVS7H3n3M2EF7eGng1QyifqlH-Jx3QSv-9Unkz56bvIJLdZwwd6Fl4tM8LToi0dJJIGg4ee-UN1rSSpe83MnNeaFIz47WHLeeGIz1mGqLp7Q5L4qrFVteA1UR4 FpW0Fy4EY0n8L_qKz-zFvbE2EdVuNCfPlMDz-_YFR3jIr8c1QZAabrk5iHN8iQoewo8TVEvqsfnzp6IQKYL7iQ-agbt_4GrFHT4CdAecDYf2j8-0UrDuT6Q_6KAtpdYXZTNxjvIWPxy5ube7c66d8oQfzQBiqrKb-Mv6jSQTgC0cMk_0HmOgX75NlfFYUotI4NEjBbeGd2825uUvhXc HHIROUvIUyibFbiokUulzP5Hz4qhzy0gSIxsJ8YhWIvv4nRznD upym02I_7-i2LzJdtk1rPmvVxBrGR-27iKRrYse1O6PeqIJhmZ1SeLh0bwRDP616Ps11VTxVUdFNGUGN yUMWOmc2XoTCXriDSVznTEL248L6mLanfDaTPERRnTm1wqenVa XI=w699-h500-no
Left is factory Trooper rear spring, center is the OME 2919 (installed) and the right is the BDS 034211--17.25"--240 lbs/in--lift 3.5". I originally bought the BDS but thought it'd be too high and too stiff. I haven't returned the BDS springs because Amazon won't pay the return and the cheapest quote I've gotten for shipping is 50% of what I paid for the springs.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EiBmGx0CrPr4Vj1O2jZ1n3yrt9jATv8SdI9BEQ4Yixa8WG3QzL FugA0p-7JmbLnwAG5i20GxP2PJtjlODb65B7kGFKfT6IwQ3wU3WrG9Wzk wj6l_qiCvdZckfPuIqZOnbKZWlT9-852SqnmHGn_hwaQdMahpySPqeHiw65G63a8mdulhd3lumAa7zK 2SXBCfNPFZDXjKBQ6rw8u-NdqG7z1jj2POIAEALouKoyaxy_m-4nhQ7sR3Z_2SISq5dOFkRByUXFAJ-gMlUN1LfBHrnQG7abFMc4Z71tD4uAV0zxNgLeLVBG5tft4Aln-Or4PKnZAAV0KnfsTU2ssSIw7gUrKqaCI3AWa0uCRgoXJfzs-k7oqH1vpLW7bU4BQJGgzi1Y0RVio1RaaOTQzhGChO7-H-EAFzjTKGnirt7fzCUTpLIK1RgbVmK4rxoaNi5GtXBxNscEC-Q5wWHijxQ7CiQXxlCgnNfz5oB_D1wJHuolYsnyWelELf_3Kaj9 9mtaSYPL73JtBEMD4vD19Qg7mzm-SO7mcVQexqgOStfcju5BNM_yPAkFD5iej3dSqML1hf8zc7Wjly kxbpM4or8XKhJcXZGlttN7SIZrXn0lFr6CZftt1RxYzr9VSXQQ qfeN-VA5m8q6Jfwc1ymKJz6VEJCFv-TjxYkgTXo_T_gGmuDGEebvkYbxRxEAUOa7ZFwwBI1dzNuqBjDm hhdfT-5psl48IJKnTno8Dm56jQlopddVGaS8mgSNpKaSu=w689-h625-no
Before
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2P6zPxn6Hr5nDmR7ncVlx0xpsh-SEE49rDjiH-xZpCV3vK6mNV0lkONoMpOViPxRqj2KiiOvTz8BUBbbnS-5kNLnprS_2zcw9UIIf78b6c0w8Mp6of7BwPurynBfjZwmZF2wN YxEsIaPv-vU-z50BN4r07Hkz0TI4L5J131RTEMHY1Yj-DtVSnywMEXFSDhoDgD7WSn_3eYCH8FU8nWQ7QmEIFikLS2vGlV VDmVgyzzV63K4TTm77hZLQZeoq0Qku_b7gjF9VE_FC6OxqiWPh k1WegMm-La1z6jHqObEzGBpa52kYoCZRWV1pvMWyWkFnAa3fXQof31C2xL j2p72umbcqmuSaiUu9cxjEzmqZZZW2fxnj-r7s64ds1kvrcbNnA2YU90zvCKmg-yS_hOSU6flOOm8CRl4LGlRgjqJT4tg7YZRORKwE1EDGBM9vGlA 1sAG5SgzwqiB7jUz1HLICZbA6C5DDf-fqY7bC86KiBzB2c89-2qaTP9hKpoC1s_uoDTS7Limyrf4h6R4mqIMj6JSKRSGZj6Pnrt y6TIeOsd8iAjSLAB8tIvx4Y_NLiMB_eT6itnh3G95qtOLErrlD 6uYdgH_79cFHqSbpvQDuZipISovPRyGAy2MvB8PbVBrmj6FoEl D5F74izTW7mP4zjT_9o2DrX4i0yRCZvwiTdUXv-USsU_pzVp5yw8hzAvLG7kP1-X70_5MQ1Ga3SAMCkw1y1BzyVnLcXgpbBC8EtXLY5UBYL5Ylizj =w704-h500-no
After
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9zZCueWIAeiEfNOam9HSBdk3swE9R5rltgauUrYUYuLPmW07ba ExLbaCSuSAEuqVovXT2tDbLAWZwJ3Sl14r7xBbhanPm4ICaror E-4zRufXg6AotiZ7C_O6SjZk9z8LaVWHxJ8MQ4CdMAl5JgqOi89z 2_mSnXGMbIYeUw4ecMnZH4odXCXBf0yV4XECb56d2tEDPIS1yx ts0roE8Sycb5BD6_aF5Xh8SxaV2MPVKlqnc60LVxP8hg54NyZc bdcNN8J6xk5D19CyzVKjgnheASubvvXt9gJJ9QPkmNdLSawgfX mYhialwj3HMuvAduP3hz2weaN6LE6QtkvglIK661Tlm1PQbwby E6U-3fW89iW5n29nmbcUj22hZeqkLcMO3aUIYo-PVDbCzuoNv3KPwR06MDaOj8nh8OkzC-K4AJm1m5JosJ96pVDj6mcjuBOCY8hWwYXWex4x-FPLS0yK5a-iEAPCiGIBBOqNLYmVuGPqtGRb-jB2v05p4VmJnYbtaRGXWrhgbN24tG_62dumvb5uZ9Cu8krVoXX z2xQjUVlTbWWA8U08Mw7uRnS3b5T-Gubi7k7PpT4D0HBwWcF6cVXu6HkbIupZqOMJOU3lZzXECv4clL cehYSU7P5eDNjGJ-S0ispkNYlRORWdXDntGns3d8Ww5xGYmQGxse7amNqGQ0VxAlJi mkd5u4wiIQ38DccUoPXJkEkFjWSRQa8bw7iM9r2HB2ENesRQPN LbCQRGF0MbMw9Lmxsv=w757-h500-no
CV angle on the Amigo without a diff drop
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/L-EPH597j46oKP4dIeJOLNc8trNUk58lZfrh1wXP6lEitndw813P JFMtdjIkGvetwcfnixdcglx8nL0dG4H5lGANZ002u85P2Hxc6Q qU2imffLr1yH31M1s6JYNx0YAWN4jQUihU3hUyrdKeOX2kAs5D wyHkZ5r0RdxIzFWewrjB-ssrEJbof9InYm29IZkHvO-f5ibEn7Ca-TwxyFJ0OBp2yYsAZKMzsFXcoRyIZUKKzrNLycPIhhy1JWM3zL9 7MginpRaab4lkXloT5PCx8I4Z-YgsFdBQcp604hIdRMWcmdyM8q1_9pEmrIZmSw1CFjCPBV5pNnx adm0ykAZDj8VZxBD_GUcyhT14JLzNjLUaMf-7KxAOjOslgVQw7lgbEBJ-Ydr1anpRFV4TSbrCk0raqj5j4hJzNc5YeOK2WMqnR32_LAr8Uv euVuRNFLKCTeVZS85C4gwxsFZEbN66UqTsqztp2rtLXIKpWJ7I LzC8c8MU243o5i_77EbXkITnL42bZFvIXFMOnAQmiN1OGudZ9u 9UIP2vaRuaHFoCVi4tHx0mSp5RDCW-QZyhAyKvVrN1y2SS8lYjdsWre8eNu6nT-d2nhCDSsCcH8UkuIr_pHGgxeOTBQ09BpvU6RPqULN9POL1obh4 WcqfpTZeoyLigVyYRGa_aVsoOKl1Zn8hw918I0vSDcF4K8moIN yRNMBOMxdq2Q-rOMhfYgFNCLMz6ipMdIMHlKVid8AUgvk88Drhe4y_ObX0L=w76 3-h625-no
CV angle on the Trooper with diff drop. I think the Trooper is lifted a bit less, but still very happy about those CV angles.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9xS-qNznvSmuJtdHuiCgBKKpo_xu1LaAUuRuzRT3UeYLeSar7Io-3eOa3L1wmuxw44ixUbbD-9ZWJmNfYY1m3I8yS8ZpVKiSIIjtI32EA4830Ciyv0TL9B36ld3 pqXFzEesJPVcY4hpuPNbs6Qeli33B6EnHeij4eo_zWe3us7Rw1 WEEqL2hJv0e9h7kcwxsO6ncEosEY0j_2Vvj0WpNIMjleHnDWjP Ul4ydRsq2juivSTr_iO5FSMjaO2aKTajOTmdRZcDNV1Z1eYhCB ZPi6PcWDmtz6q5jWnHGY81gt6QB3QmwBbd-Q_Uq6O6PflTbgZ93Ry3Pn-ALNErAsoaiijzHqJk9kz4rLZXIKx7FNNr5hQpd1Pj8ASALEd2y WO0TOVVxS6xEjWN3J5DM4nRcukiHdCuJ4mqozsZaOr4Ghco5mL HbMnHPVuKycuQ1rIcZbFQj5eGycNlsjnqwf55YlVaJOtSN00du 6gKUEZLyhJTFfknkYCgcM3WZEJuxwoPJbzp8UiIdogdixRawVw lRP5PE8VJiyl_ZD6ryV3oKszlhhhGySzhXaJTAQ0aMsqTccHer b01F75cOH4VxpG8S_gdJTanTFEbx5ETzojwJ-J_75OKohND3wBB2zvYaem_6d06CGACbGWDolQaxN1_UJCVVY1L lp_5eOyHrzmOf0xxcamofe6TXrN9iczTMJaTzildrBNBpfDfw0 XG0vm0prBRs8i5s6wRs2U78S-QpacXb5hfJjxsvctU8=w754-h625-no
I've got a 1" body lift on the way from Classic City Overland, but not sure if I'll install it yet. I want to be as low as possible, but I don't want to clip the seam weld on the bottom of the rockers to fit sliders.
Very nice. Ironically with this angle you will probably bever break a half shaft.
Looks like I will be going the other way and increasing my cv shaft angle, just need to choose keys and put together the order.
Wuestion on the cv boots. Are they rubber or plastic? How hard was it to crimp the bands on?
Boots are rubber. They are a pain in the ass to clamp on because you are full of axle grease while you do it. I remember getting advice on this years ago, on here, when I did the Amigo. I used a little Harbor Freight cutter that I filed down the sharp so they were crimpers more than cutters. Also, bend the tightening tab a little before you put it on just to give the crimpers a bit more purchase. It's frustrating at first, but once you figure it out it isn't bad. Just remember that there is a crimp tab that tightens everything up, so don't kill yourself trying to get it tight at first.
Yep, I had to make one of those from a HF cutter too. VW has hard plastic boots, so they are even worse. They make a crimper with a bolt for those and next time I am buying one of those. Too much of a pain otherwise.
hurley842002
04-27-2020, 17:30
Very nice Irving, it looks great! I don't have any experience with rear coils outside of installing spacers on my brothers wrangler, but I believe some use limiting straps if your droop is that extreme. I'm also curious what length your shocks are, as that will also limit droop before it gets to the point of losing a spring.
Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
Like you can see in the picture, they are barely longer than stock. Right now it looks like the real limiting factor is the rear sway bar. i haven't messed around with it much yet though.
Assuming both springs are on same "k", that X" difference probably would not matter as it is less than fraction of % of total length.
It must be some kind of record for performance. My tractor uses two 12v batteries. Last week they failed to hold a charge so I replaced them. The manufacture dates on the batteries were 11-2008 and 3-2009, and I had installed them in March 2009, so I got more than 11 years of service from them. Cheapie Energizers from Sam's Club.
I hope the new batteries last as long. This time Sam's only had the Duracell Ultra Platinum AGM BCI Group 47 for $145 each, which I thought was pricey. Now I see that Autozone, Batteries+ and other parts stores sell the same battery for $70 to $110 more. Sam's for the win.
hurley842002
04-28-2020, 12:11
Like you can see in the picture, they are barely longer than stock. Right now it looks like the real limiting factor is the rear sway bar. i haven't messed around with it much yet though.I may have missed the picture of the shocks, I saw the springs. Typically when you lift, you order shocks that will accommodate the full usable up/down travel of the new suspension. Come to think of it, while not tinkering with rear coils, I recall the front coils in my 99 XJ had a steel retaining "strap" that secured the spring to the lower coil bucket on the axle, the upper part of the spring sat in the upper bucket freely, and I recall under extreme flex it would separate from the upper bucket, and the isolator could be moved by hand. Anyway, just thinking out loud at this point.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200428/ae7055075e2b7bd9e124d3821110e261.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200428/da4edcfd61811a50889c33e6b68f6eb7.jpg
ETA: This is also the Jeep that I installed an Aussie locker in the rear end.
Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
Oh I misread. The shocks are longer for the lift. I didn't do a side by side with the last shocks so I couldn't tell you how much longer.
Where are you guys getting your alignments done? I called a place very close to my house and their standard price is competitive at $80-$90, but he said if it gets difficult because of the lift he bumps the price up to $200. Seems pretty high for an alignment and I didn't have the last shop complain when I did this years ago. I want to say that I took it to Bear Creek Auto, or Lakewood Automotive, but I can't remember and I thought I heard they had a change of ownership. Anyone have a recommendation?
Steves in Longmont is good. No idea if jacked car prices get jacked
I'll give him a call, thanks.
ETA: I called and told him the deal and he said their price is $69.99, so I have an appointment with them later this week
The bumper project is going no where. I AGAIN sanded to make it look even. It was back to square one. I will spray 4th and 5th coat tomorrow.
So your guys thoughts. 110k on the truck, steering and loose suspension. Ball joint need to be done. I think I will replace the whole control arms and not just bushings. Price is more, but it sounds like doing the ball joints and rubber bushings takes a few hours.
Thoughts?
If it's not too much more, but saves you a couple of hours, it might be worth it.
The bumper project is going no where. I AGAIN sanded to make it look even. It was back to square one. I will spray 4th and 5th coat tomorrow.
What is the hang up for you? Is it not sanding evenly? Are you using a sanding block?
whitewalrus
04-28-2020, 22:27
So your guys thoughts. 110k on the truck, steering and loose suspension. Ball joint need to be done. I think I will replace the whole control arms and not just bushings. Price is more, but it sounds like doing the ball joints and rubber bushings takes a few hours.
Thoughts?
Ball joints aren?t that much more work as you have to remove the knuckle anyway. Using one of the press kits (most auto stores will rent as a free loaner) they come out pretty quickly. If the price savings is worth it and the control arms are in good condition, if replace just the ball joints.
What is the hang up for you? Is it not sanding evenly? Are you using a sanding block?
I am now using 120grit which is aggressive to sand. I don't think bondo area evens out as nice even with it.
Will update more as times goes.
Ford’s Lincoln And Rivian Cancel Electric SUV Plans, Citing COVID-19 Impact (https://www.forbes.com/sites/greggardner/2020/04/28/lincoln-rivian-cancel-electric-suv-plans-citing-covid-19-impact/#7f5155886fe1)
Lincoln, Ford F Motor Co.’s luxury brand, has canceled an electric SUV it planned to develop with a technology from Ford’s startup partner Rivian, Automotive News reported Tuesday.
Lincoln and Ford, which has invested more than $500 million in Rivian, will continue to collaborate on other projects, but this specific project was halted due to problems exacerbated by the coronavirus pandemic.
“Given the current environment, Lincoln and Rivian have decided not to pursue development of a fully electric vehicle based on Rivian’s skateboard platform,” according to a statement issued by a Lincoln spokesperson. “This was a decision that was mutually made by Lincoln and Rivian given the rapidly changing environment and after a review of product plans.”
It is unclear exactly how the pandemic affected the project. But the pandemic has set back more than just the production of vehicles. While many salaried engineers have worked remotely during the stay-at-home order in Michigan and other states, progress on future vehicles can be delayed by the inability to work face-to-face with colleagues and suppliers.
Rivian recently announced it will delay the release of its first two vehicles, the R1T pickup truck and the R1S SUV from late this year to early 2021, also citing the pandemic.
Ford made its $500 million investment in the Plymouth, Michigan-based startup in 2019, shortly after Amazon AMZN announced it was putting $700 million into Rivian. Ford also participated in a $1.3 billion fund-raising round for Rivian that was completed in December 2019.
Oh yeah, nice Jeep Hurley. I want a solid front.
hurley842002
04-29-2020, 22:58
Oh yeah, nice Jeep Hurley. I want a solid front.Thanks, I wish I still had it, that was easily the most capable rig I've owned. I prefer solid axle, but if I'm being honest with myself, my Xterra and the Tacoma I had, would/will go anywhere I need them to go, then again I don't wheel like I used to.
Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
I gave up. 8th base coat, and 3 top coat, still cannot get rid of this.
https://i.imgur.com/3pcaxgQ.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/8QPmsrV.jpg?1
I gave up. 8th base coat, and 3 top coat, still cannot get rid of this.
Did you use a sealer or primer coat ??
Derald
FromMyColdDeadHand
05-02-2020, 17:23
Late to the game, but sanding block and wet sanding? Is that orange peal showing through?
Thanks guys. Everything mentioned was used.
I think I need rotor machine sand.
It is the bondo that is showing.
mindfold
05-03-2020, 07:04
Where are you guys getting your alignments done? I called a place very close to my house and their standard price is competitive at $80-$90, but he said if it gets difficult because of the lift he bumps the price up to $200. Seems pretty high for an alignment and I didn't have the last shop complain when I did this years ago. I want to say that I took it to Bear Creek Auto, or Lakewood Automotive, but I can't remember and I thought I heard they had a change of ownership. Anyone have a recommendation?
Les Schwab installs lift kits and they are in ok with lift kits alignments. Price? Can?t remember. But as you know, you pay for knowledge and experience. Rather done right the first time.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Les Schwab installs lift kits and they are in ok with lift kits alignments. Price? Can?t remember. But as you know, you pay for knowledge and experience. Rather done right the first time.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My experience with Les Schwab was not the same as above. Pulled after 10k miles and they wouldn't fix.
I no longer patronize Les Schwab, but thanks. I used Steve's in Longmont. Good price. I got there and the guy showed me play in the wheel bearing so he couldn't align it until fixed. He continued to go through the front end buttoning things up for almost an hour, only to charge me nothing. I've already got another appointment next week. Just need to get these bearings replaced now.
Elon Musk threatens to move Tesla out of California, sue over coronavirus order shutting down Fremont factory (https://www.mercurynews.com/2020/05/09/elon-musk-claims-tesla-will-leave-california-sue-over-coronavirus-order-shutting-down-factory/)
Uhh... It's California. I thought Elon was supposed to be some super genius, like ole Wile E. Coyote? How can the almighty Electric Car Jesus say he didn't understand this could happen?
hurley842002
05-09-2020, 16:20
I ditched the "boob" lights that come on the Pro4x from the factory, in favor of a light bar made by a local (Tucson) Xterra parts fabricator. My original idea was to do an actual LED bar, but every schmuck with a 4x4 has those here, so I wanted to be different and go retro with round. Still waiting for 2 more lights to come back in stock for the middle two mounts.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200509/a835ea512003c49f145557d0ee4702ca.jpg
Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
ChickNorris
05-09-2020, 16:34
Like Mickey
Elon Musk threatens to move Tesla out of California, sue over coronavirus order shutting down Fremont factory (https://www.mercurynews.com/2020/05/09/elon-musk-claims-tesla-will-leave-california-sue-over-coronavirus-order-shutting-down-factory/)
Uhh... It's California. I thought Elon was supposed to be some super genius, like ole Wile E. Coyote? How can the almighty Electric Car Jesus say he didn't understand this could happen?
Elon Should've moved the soaceX, Tesla to places like TN, KY, GA, etc like other import and some domestic manufacturers did LONG AGO before the megafactory thing.
Reminds me of Gates from Microsoft trying to move to Canada and talk about putting netscape on window is like having 1 pepsi inside the 6 pack coke product.
Any of you pressed in rubber bushings into A arms? The bottom suburban arms would be $300 more for complete lower A-arms vs just rubber bushings. I will borrow a bush press from a parts store. Just not sure of the pain level. Thanks.
Any of you pressed in rubber bushings into A arms? The bottom suburban arms would be $300 more for complete lower A-arms vs just rubber bushings. I will borrow a bush press from a parts store. Just not sure of the pain level. Thanks.
It's been a few years but what I remember was getting the new ones in was the easy part, getting the old ones out took some work.
whitewalrus
05-09-2020, 20:57
Any of you pressed in rubber bushings into A arms? The bottom suburban arms would be $300 more for complete lower A-arms vs just rubber bushings. I will borrow a bush press from a parts store. Just not sure of the pain level. Thanks.
If you have the press tool, it isn?t all that bad. Much like the ball joints themselves.
I would start spraying penetrating oil on everything you need to remove a few days beforehand. Suspension parts take quite some torque to remove already. Breaker bars, cheater bars, and impact wrenches are are your friend.
https://www.yahoo.com/news/cannonball-run-record-repeatedly-shattered-153815257.html
Cannonball record broken again (unofficial drive across the US). Average speed of 106mph for 26 hours, 38 mins... some states estimated average over 120mph. They attribute it to empt(ier) roads thanks to Covid.
I set personal records going from Thornton to Aurora a few weeks ago. I don?t think I averaged over a hundred miles an hour though.
blacklabel
05-24-2020, 20:15
https://www.yahoo.com/news/cannonball-run-record-repeatedly-shattered-153815257.html
Cannonball record broken again (unofficial drive across the US). Average speed of 106mph for 26 hours, 38 mins... some states estimated average over 120mph. They attribute it to empt(ier) roads thanks to Covid.
Hasn't been broken multiple times in the last 6 weeks? Tons of drama about guys "taking advantage" of the circumstances. It's an illegal race across the country ffs.
BushMasterBoy
05-24-2020, 21:49
It's been a few years but what I remember was getting the new ones in was the easy part, getting the old ones out took some work.
I've done this before. I just use a propane torch and burn the rubber out. Just don't get the rest of it too hot. When it cools, score the the inside of the bushing with a hacksaw and pop it out with a chisel.
I've done this before. I just use a propane torch and burn the rubber out. Just don't get the rest of it too hot. When it cools, score the the inside of the bushing with a hacksaw and pop it out with a chisel.
That is a part I hope to avoid. HOA will have kittens if I start torching rubber in the driveway
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Not sure if this has been posted before but it's fairly interesting:
https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/special/2014/newsspec_8703/index.html
Anyone have or driven a GM truck with the 3.0l inline 6 Duramax? I was interested in the 2.8l inline 4, mini-Duramax, but it seems that GM is going to discontinue the little diesel that could. I don't see me ever buying a brand new truck, but if I did, the straight 6 diesel seems to be more than enough truck to last me the rest of my driving lifetime.
BushMasterBoy
05-26-2020, 13:15
The 6 cylinder diesel uses a rubber internal belt to power the oil pump. Should be changed every 150,000 miles by removing the transmission. I prefer the old school Ford 7.3 diesel, hard to find a really low mileage one.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NFNsg7bCtdA
The 6 cylinder diesel uses a rubber internal belt to power the oil pump. Should be changed every 150,000 miles by removing the transmission. I prefer the old school Ford 7.3 diesel, hard to find a really low mileage one.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NFNsg7bCtdA
Belongs in the WTF were they thinking? thread.
Most of the newer diesels suck. Doesn't seem to matter the manufacturer. The required emissions are not friendly to them.
http://youtu.be/d4z9gs3I8Ms
Most of the newer diesels suck. Doesn't seem to matter the manufacturer. The required emissions are not friendly to them.
http://youtu.be/d4z9gs3I8Ms
The chevy is an inline 6 and uses a GM-Ford codesigned 10-speed. LOL
There's going to be a lot of 145K mile durapads on the market in the future.
Diesel emissions suck and it's a shame how they choke the engines, but I'm happy with the 1,000 lb-ft I have under my right foot.
I am aware of the oil pump belt and the 150k replacement interval. I have a Toyota 2UZ-FE engine in my 2003 Sequoia, which by most accounts is one of the best engines produced by Toyota. Still, it has its problems, like the 90k timing belt replacement and the unique starter placement under the intake manifold. Not to mention that it is a thirsty beast. Good thing gasoline is currently cheap.
If I was going to get a gasser pickup, I think I would just get a Tundra. Finding a 4.9l straight 6 F150 without lots of rust is getting to be harder and harder, so a V8 Tundra with it's anemic towing capacity in exchange for it's reliability and similarity to my Sequoia just seems to be the best compromise.
I agree, modern diesels have been set up for failure in the US, with all of the emissions systems. Still, the 3.0l Duramax seems like it could be one of those 300k engines and even though it has only been a year or so, most reviews on the 10 speed transmission have been very positive. If it was an Allison or Aisin transmission I'm sure everyone would have been raving over it.
As I said before, a $50k truck just isn't in my plans, so I will be interested in seeing what GM does with this engine in the future and how it and the 10 speed holds up.
SideShow Bob
05-26-2020, 20:54
IGood thing gasoline is currently cheap.
It has gone back up $.40+ in the last week.........
The chevy is an inline 6 and uses a GM-Ford codesigned 10-speed. LOL
There's going to be a lot of 145K mile durapads on the market in the future.
Diesel emissions suck and it's a shame how they choke the engines, but I'm happy with the 1,000 lb-ft I have under my right foot.
I'm impressed with that Cummins powerplant. I didn't say they all suck. [Coffee]
The 'Eco' diesels are in a weird niche.
If it was an Allison or Aisin transmission I'm sure everyone would have been raving over it.
I've had a vehicle with an Aisin transmission and I was very happy with its performance.
Allison isn't what it used to be. https://www.bizjournals.com/baltimore/news/2018/11/26/gm-to-close-baltimore-county-plant-in-2019-as-part.html
Anyone have experience with Suzuki SX4 awd? I've always been curious about them, especially since they go for way cheaper than a Toyota Matrix or Pontiac Vibe.
I always thought an SX4 would look cute in the bed of my truck. Other than that, I?ve got nothing.
Isn?t the SX4 pretty much the newer version of the Geo Metro?
Martinjmpr
05-27-2020, 07:16
Anyone have experience with Suzuki SX4 awd? I've always been curious about them, especially since they go for way cheaper than a Toyota Matrix or Pontiac Vibe.
Prices on Suzuki cars dropped like a rock in 2012 when Suzuki announced that they were pulling out of the NA Car market. So parts might become difficult to find over time.
Can't speak to the SX4 but the wife had a Grand Vitara from 2008 to 2012 and really liked it. The only thing I didn't like is that it was noisy.
Ford has implemented a way for the police interceptors from 13+ to kill Coronavirus.
Punch a few buttons and hop out. The vehicle increases idle and heats the cabin to 133 degrees F for 15 minutes.
https://autos.yahoo.com/ford-police-interceptor-utility-destroy-153100565.html
I've had a vehicle with an Aisin transmission and I was very happy with its performance.
Allison isn't what it used to be. https://www.bizjournals.com/baltimore/news/2018/11/26/gm-to-close-baltimore-county-plant-in-2019-as-part.html
I think GM has been building their own "Allison" for a few years now. Not actually built by Allison, just gets their rubber stamp.
Allison still build HD transmissions, but not the one GM uses in the pickups.
Suzuki X-90 Redbull!
https://3.bp.blogspot.com/__9TTj0s27Vk/S28dBsnj-UI/AAAAAAAACT0/R9ixY-0bOPI/w1200-h630-p-k-no-nu/red_bull-x90.jpg
I?ve never met Irving?s wife but I bet she?d look good in a Samurai.
My uncle has a Chevy Tracker, which is basically a Samuri, but I think it'd be too small. Plus he wants too much for it.
My wife likes to drive a manual, and most of the Suzuki SX4s and many of the Toyota Matrix I'm finding are manuals.
Nice. Good to see a woman that can handle a stick.
The Trooper has more flex than the Amigo did without sway bars, which is just one of the few reasons I decided to switch to the Trooper.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eCtedGAo6M0MTogVcggXTwvSGL2ibeVetT2XQdu-8KMeiV0EwQfMJt_-nR1bhyneg5zf7Mx2TizvejX-zaX4lN3JZhhCR_XgCRh1Brjh181Ce9K7FxUz-NV9Vw8qlGThTnUQIgmxJffv9JI8yTupAwGQ=w1112-h625-no?authuser=0
It'll tuck the 32's without rubbing, and I'm going to put 33's on. Plan is a 1" body lift (sitting in the garage in the box) that would fit 35's without cutting, but I'm not going to go that big with IFS and without upgrading axles all around (zero gear options currently).
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d5p7uJRP5klWRubicdPMr_BQMPYAR_hH73LW08hHZ0uJTGTUn GVmMSKbaVGpeE8yVJLEvlqDfQUtWDq4Mieu7CxbyepyK5R8SHy 4LiQLQBAwt8Zmildscl2TAK8Yi9iyprkhJq-WqkLYZKI2wcecqvdw=w1112-h625-no?authuser=0
Things got western once the neighbor got involved.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eII4dycT45N0TN5RQDDZImy9Qs9wMrY0x24fkE3CMBalwXkoS Dqhx-WPvsdsxoCfUh36jX7xIkVDsG3IpymKmQWiIuJ0J7flcOZqzJoQ EOXBpNW3UEUyIW5W1yuFzmr-qtRCpHzNv7FJrfssY-5AnhPQ=w1112-h625-no?authuser=0
Finally got the alignment done. Only took me three tries. Pretty tired of taking the front end apart at this point. Next is body lift, which I'm considering cutting in half. I only want it to make room for the sliders so I don't have to cut the body seam. I won't complain about the extra room in the wheel wells though. Then clutch and low gears in the transfer case. All that stuff (including steel for sliders) is sitting in my garage just waiting. That's the immediate future anyway.
Not sure if this has been posted before but it's fairly interesting:
https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/special/2014/newsspec_8703/index.html
I started reading that, and what jumped out at me was that it seems like the lady kind of abandoned her kids to go traveling.
What happened with the alignment?
Nice. Good to see a woman that can handle a stick.
My wife taught me to drive a stick. I'd had never to, but my car was totaled in a parking lot by a drunk driver and the only vehicle we had was her 95 Accord manual trans. Learned in about 20 minutes on country roads. I think having ridden motorcycles all my life helped with the concept.
When I was learning to drive my dad insisted that I learned on a stick shift. I guess he figured if I could drive a stick then an automatic should be pretty easy. I learned on a 1977 Datsun B210. I think five of my first seven vehicles were manual transmissions. I could easily and happily drive a stick shift every day but honestly I am glad automatics exist because I guess I?m just lazy that way.
I would gladly give up the automatic transmission in my company truck if they would get me power windows and door locks instead. Manual windows and locks are a pain in my butt but I could deal with shifting my own gears.
What happened with the alignment?
I drove up to Longmont twice and both times they told me they couldn't do it, and kept pointing to more and more parts that could have been replaced. I replaced the wheel bearing, but they weren't tight enough the second time. I ended up buying a gland nut wrench with a 1/2" socket drive fitting, then borrowed a very expensive digital torque wrench to set everything up properly. I just took it to a place in Aurora (Stan's Alignment) and got the work done there.
The Trooper has more flex than the Amigo did without sway bars, which is just one of the few reasons I decided to switch to the Trooper.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eCtedGAo6M0MTogVcggXTwvSGL2ibeVetT2XQdu-8KMeiV0EwQfMJt_-nR1bhyneg5zf7Mx2TizvejX-zaX4lN3JZhhCR_XgCRh1Brjh181Ce9K7FxUz-NV9Vw8qlGThTnUQIgmxJffv9JI8yTupAwGQ=w1112-h625-no?authuser=0
It'll tuck the 32's without rubbing, and I'm going to put 33's on. Plan is a 1" body lift (sitting in the garage in the box) that would fit 35's without cutting, but I'm not going to go that big with IFS and without upgrading axles all around (zero gear options currently).
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d5p7uJRP5klWRubicdPMr_BQMPYAR_hH73LW08hHZ0uJTGTUn GVmMSKbaVGpeE8yVJLEvlqDfQUtWDq4Mieu7CxbyepyK5R8SHy 4LiQLQBAwt8Zmildscl2TAK8Yi9iyprkhJq-WqkLYZKI2wcecqvdw=w1112-h625-no?authuser=0
Things got western once the neighbor got involved.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eII4dycT45N0TN5RQDDZImy9Qs9wMrY0x24fkE3CMBalwXkoS Dqhx-WPvsdsxoCfUh36jX7xIkVDsG3IpymKmQWiIuJ0J7flcOZqzJoQ EOXBpNW3UEUyIW5W1yuFzmr-qtRCpHzNv7FJrfssY-5AnhPQ=w1112-h625-no?authuser=0
Finally got the alignment done. Only took me three tries. Pretty tired of taking the front end apart at this point. Next is body lift, which I'm considering cutting in half. I only want it to make room for the sliders so I don't have to cut the body seam. I won't complain about the extra room in the wheel wells though. Then clutch and low gears in the transfer case. All that stuff (including steel for sliders) is sitting in my garage just waiting. That's the immediate future anyway.
My old Bronco II would flex like crazy. Too bad it smelled like fish on a warm Colorado summer day.
Took my drivers test with a stick.
Prefer not to drive them anymore due to bad knees.
(no on your knees jokes!)
That Bronco II was a solid axle front though, right? IFS can't really compete with that.
That Bronco II was a solid axle front though, right? IFS can't really compete with that.
No, it had the Ford twin beam.
Too bad it smelled like fish on a warm Colorado summer day.
That might be the weirdest thing I?ve heard someone say about a vehicle in a while.
Ahh yes, I was reading up on those the other day. Ford used that for a long time in a lot of different vehicles. Rangers and first gen Explorers as well. Hell, I wouldn't be surprised if they used that in the Cobra II's.
That might be the weirdest thing I?ve heard someone say about a vehicle in a while.
Too many river crossings and leaky door seals.
Should have pulled the carpet but I ended up trading it.
I had a cooler floating in the back once.
I drove up to Longmont twice and both times they told me they couldn't do it, and kept pointing to more and more parts that could have been replaced. I replaced the wheel bearing, but they weren't tight enough the second time. I ended up buying a gland nut wrench with a 1/2" socket drive fitting, then borrowed a very expensive digital torque wrench to set everything up properly. I just took it to a place in Aurora (Stan's Alignment) and got the work done there.
Bummer. Steve?s is usually great so not sure what happened there.
I don't think they were messing me around, I didn't properly torque the wheel bearings. Although, the one guy telling me that my center link was bad shouldn't have affected his ability to do an alignment. Doesn't matter because at the time the wheel bearings were still loose and I replaced the center link anyway. I think the only parts of the front end I haven't replaced are the sway bar bushing (linkage is a bit bent) and the torsion bars. I just wasn't going to drive 45 minutes one way to be told it couldn't be aligned for a third time in a row.
whitewalrus
06-03-2020, 14:41
I think GM has been building their own "Allison" for a few years now. Not actually built by Allison, just gets their rubber stamp.
Allison still build HD transmissions, but not the one GM uses in the pickups.
GM owned Allison for quite some time. GM is making the one in current models:
https://ir.allisontransmission.com/news-releases/news-release-details/chevrolet-offer-10-speed-fully-automatic-allison-branded
Yeah, "Allison branded". You get the GM version and they call it an Allison. Not quite the same thing.
Well poop again. Window regulator in daughters car went kaput. Located a used one in south Denver and for a few bucks more I can take the door. Guy took off the door and started to take it apart. I just hope he did not break all the clips I wanted to salvage that are part of the door plastic. They are broken on my car and are not sold separately. It will be interesting adjusting the window pane.
Want to check something before I wreck something.
It’s my understanding the 2000 lx470 has center locking differential, not viscous.
So, for tire replacements I should be fine with just replacing both front or both rear, right?
I need to get a spare. I can either buy 5 new KO2’s or one spare And if I get a flat drive slow until I get front or rear replaced, right?
If I can get away with just replacing both front or rear tires in the event of a flat, having limped along on a spare, that seems more money smart.
If I *need* to buy all new, including spare, and rotate them, I will. If I can get along with just replacing front/rear as needed, I will.
Edumacate me.
Is there an AWD option? That would indicated that the center diff is viscous, but can be locked. However, rather than BS my way through a question I don't know the answer to. I'll screen shot your question and ask my Toyota friends that will know the answer and report back.
You should be able to buy tires in axle pairs. Typically, your best tires go on the front since they're used for steering control and most of your braking.
DenverGP
06-17-2020, 00:03
You should be able to buy tires in axle pairs. Typically, your best tires go on the front since they're used for steering control and most of your braking.
I've always heard the new tires goes on the rear, because if you lose grip on the front wheels first, it's understeer and can be corrected, but if the back wheels loose grip first, you get oversteer and it'll snap around.
I've always heard the new tires goes on the rear, because if you lose grip on the front wheels first, it's understeer and can be corrected, but if the back wheels loose grip first, you get oversteer and it'll snap around.
You are correct: http://www.tiresafetygroup.com/when-buying-two-tires-instead-of-four-place-the-two-new-tires-on-the-rear/
ETA: A Better link with a video: https://www.allstate.com/blog/new-tires-rear/
http://youtu.be/endLPwy3cQc
Personally, I prefer oversteer to understeer. When you turn the wheel and the car doesn't turn (understeer), that doesn't blow my skirt up. I can usually control oversteer with the throttle.
When the rear end's loose, the car's fast. Loose is fast, and on the edge of out of control.
-Harry Hogge
DenverGP
06-17-2020, 12:05
Personally, I prefer oversteer to understeer. When you turn the wheel and the car doesn't turn (understeer), that doesn't blow my skirt up. I can usually control oversteer with the throttle.
I agree, for track cars. These days the only track time I get is in iRacing.
You are correct: http://www.tiresafetygroup.com/when-buying-two-tires-instead-of-four-place-the-two-new-tires-on-the-rear/
ETA: A Better link with a video: https://www.allstate.com/blog/new-tires-rear/
http://youtu.be/endLPwy3cQc
Personally, I prefer oversteer to understeer. When you turn the wheel and the car doesn't turn (understeer), that doesn't blow my skirt up. I can usually control oversteer with the throttle.
I am sure you already did drove it, but you might like Porsche 911/GT3/TurboS rear heavy engine cars. They can easily take aggressive steering, but if driver pushes beyond the limit, it will punish the driver with near in-correctable spin.
My folks had a couple of older 911s back in the '80s. My dad bought a 1972 911T Targa for his mid-life crisis. My mom took it. He then bought a 1977 911S Targa for himself. I didn't drive them much, but they were a lot of fun.
We are going to be in a market for a new car next month and she wants a cpo C/CLA (Maybe cls or E) AMG.
She said smaller the better but needs 4 door.
Our trusty Hyundai elantra is (and will be was) a great vehicle averaging 36 to 39mpg combo. (Low 40s at highway easily).
At this gas price and low rate, I am just going to keep the cash and finance it. Gas guzzler for ~3 year would be fairly safe bet.
Just a perspective.
Tesla Model 3 police cars pay for themselves faster than expected, says police chief
Fred Lambert - Jun. 30th 2020 5:25 am
https://electrek.co/2020/06/30/tesla-model-3-police-cars-faster-roi-police-chief/amp/
We are going to be in a market for a new car next month and she wants a cpo C/CLA (Maybe cls or E) AMG.
She said smaller the better but needs 4 door.
Our trusty Hyundai elantra is (and will be was) a great vehicle averaging 36 to 39mpg combo. (Low 40s at highway easily).
At this gas price and low rate, I am just going to keep the cash and finance it. Gas guzzler for ~3 year would be fairly safe bet.
I?m coming around to Hyundai. The little Kona caught my eye as a possible commuter. I can get a used Ultimate for 18 and change with 25k miles. I want the 1.6 turbo and the DCT trans is something I want too. Although the auto would be better for off-roading this would be primarily a commuter. Just need to check if warranty transfers. And then hunt for the right deal.
I?m coming around to Hyundai. The little Kona caught my eye as a possible commuter. I can get a used Ultimate for 18 and change with 25k miles. I want the 1.6 turbo and the DCT trans is something I want too. Although the auto would be better for off-roading this would be primarily a commuter. Just need to check if warranty transfers. And then hunt for the right deal.
Great choice.
Probably one of the best vehicle per dollar.
We literally parked the elantra right next to AMG GT at MB littleton yesterday and that electric blue and styling of the Elantra front was as aggressive as panamerica AMG GT grille.
:)
So, I got to find out the hard way that my Isuzu wheels don't fit. The center bore is slightly too small. Obviously I should have researched more before snagging them from the junk yard. The difference isn't great, and I'm curious what it would cost to have the center hole bored out. Anyone know a place that does that I could check? Honestly I'm not even sure there is enough meat in the rim to do this correctly. I may just have to go look for some Chevy or Toyota 17" wheels. Or sell everything and just go back to 16's.
Are (minimal thickness) wheel spacers an option? Those often make accommodations for differing center bores.
Assuming you don't end up spending more than just selling them and getting different wheels.
Hmmm, probably not. It's the 4wd hubs that are the problem, and that's a lot of space to over come. Realistically, these are junkyard rims that I can just return. I feel pot committed to the tires, so I'll start looking for options.
hurley842002
07-06-2020, 18:52
Hopefully you didn't already have the tires mounted and balanced.
Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.3 Copyright © 2025 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.