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Speaking of oil change, someone 5 years ago at M3post cross posted about this Audi S4 oil change from one of those quick lube place.
YIKES!
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/681930-Just-another-reason-not-to-take-your-S4-to-an-instant-oil-change-shop
HunterCO
03-20-2021, 23:19
As long as you drained all the oil, not just a quart or two, and hand threaded the oil plug back in before you blasted it on with the 1/2" drive air gun, you probably did okay. Don't over tighten the oil filter.
I only got one quart out then I only used a 3/8 impact im not stupid. However i put 4 gallons of oil back in and according to google I tightened the oil filter to 250 ft lbs. with a calibrated torque wrench I know my shit. [ROFL1]
I am gm master certified ford master cetified and ASE master certified for over 30 years and the internet has taught me I don't know shit. Back yard mechanics with google are the shit im just a dipshit. So today I decided to change oil on my super duty being the dumbass I am figured I should ask the experts if I did it ok. I did it in my shop at home sure hope I didnt mess it up.
I bet you get all the ladies with that line.
hurley842002
03-21-2021, 12:01
I bet you get all the ladies with that line.
I was thinking this was the one he gets all the ladies with. If I?m reading it right Tfog is the Gaylord Focker of mechanics.....
Very well said however I am not a mechanic im a technician kinda like the difference between a nurse and a doctor im a doctor. we all have are place nurses are awesome but they are not doctors. Mechanics are not technicians my expertise far exceeds that level just like a doctors expertise far exceeds that of a nurse.
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I was thinking this was the one he gets all the ladies with. If I?m reading it right Tfog is the Gaylord Focker of mechanics.....
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[Beer]
But only a real technician can properly perform the lifesaving oil and filter change. You can't leave those highly technical tasks to a lowly mechanic.
HunterCO
03-21-2021, 12:14
The children make me laugh [ROFL1]
HunterCO
03-21-2021, 12:22
I currently have a problem with a 2020 ford explorer I have no communication with the front interface module. I was wondering what you experts suggest I do which can circuit should I check the high low or medium? I lab scoped the interface module and could not find a problem please help i need expert advice.[Coffee]
hurley842002
03-21-2021, 13:33
I currently have a problem with a 2020 ford explorer I have no communication with the front interface module. I was wondering what you experts suggest I do which can circuit should I check the high low or medium? I lab scoped the interface module and could not find a problem please help i need expert advice.[Coffee]
This thread is more geared towards self taught CNA?s not Doctors, but someone here may have spent enough time on WebMD to have an answer to your problem.
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HunterCO
03-21-2021, 13:53
This thread is more geared towards self taught CNA?s not Doctors, but someone here may have spent enough time on WebMD to have an answer to your problem.
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I cant wait to here it. [beatdeadhorse]
hurley842002
03-21-2021, 13:57
I cant wait to HEAR it. [beatdeadhorse]
FIFY...
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I cant wait to here it. [beatdeadhorse]
NO hoping you could enlighten me about all the things I don't know.
How to spell....
HunterCO
03-21-2021, 14:07
triple squares for those that call them twelve point if you have euro cars they use the shit out of them. the 16 tamper proof is a must if you have a bmw and want to do a brake job.
85566
Then we have torx plus another load of shit they came up with never confuse torx with torx plus. They are very different animals. use a torx bit on torx plus it will cause bad shit to happen.
85567
triple squares for those that call them twelve point if you have euro cars they use the shit out of them. the 16 tamper proof is a must if you have a bmw and want to do a brake job.
85566
Then we have torx plus another load of shit they came up with never confuse torx with torx plus. They are very different animals. use a torx bit on torx plus it will cause bad shit to happen.
85567
Don?t understand the German fascination with trip square and torx. Ended up with some funky home made job because of clearance on the B8.
That plus the torque to yield fasteners everywhere.
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HunterCO
03-21-2021, 16:05
Don?t understand the German fascination with trip square and torx. Ended up with some funky home made job because of clearance on the B8.
That plus the torque to yield fasteners everywhere.
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triple square is all euro torx is everyone and the torx plus is even more bullshit then you have the shit gm pulled with the mortoq bits I have those also but its just stupid. The engineers need to be kicked in the nuts for coming up with this bullshit. Torque to yield has been around for many years and in some cases I can agree with it but its not worth a shit on head bolts in my opinion. Especially a diesel I studded my 6.0 with ARP.
HunterCO
03-21-2021, 19:10
now some school girls can talk shit its the internet we adults know this. This is a gm mortorq bit I bet all the back yard mechanics are going to chime in and talk shit.
85588
encorehunter
03-21-2021, 20:51
I currently have a problem with a 2020 ford explorer I have no communication with the front interface module. I was wondering what you experts suggest I do which can circuit should I check the high low or medium? I lab scoped the interface module and could not find a problem please help i need expert advice.[Coffee]
Thats an easy fix. Just cut the blue wire.����
Disclaimer: I am not a auto mechanic or technician. I work on people, not cars.
HunterCO
03-21-2021, 21:04
Thats an easy fix. Just cut the blue wire.����
Disclaimer: I am not a auto mechanic or technician. I work on people, not cars.
better you than me at least if I mess up nobody dies. My body is failing blood pressure is up blood in my urine Hell im headed for the bone yard. [dig]
What's even going on in this thread right now?
DenverGP
03-21-2021, 23:07
someone managed to suck all the fun out of it.
Well, I just got my board certification back today so I'll be back in the OG (operating garage) tomorrow.
hurley842002
03-22-2021, 00:00
What's even going on in this thread right now?
A tool made it?s way to the thread, and I?m not talking about a Torx bit.
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Some people spend their entire life learning to be an asshat but not a single minute to understand they've already graduated.
What's even going on in this thread right now?
You have all been enlightened.....
GilpinGuy
03-22-2021, 03:46
85593
encorehunter
03-22-2021, 04:38
Back in topic somewhat, has anyone ever had a set of tires that seperate? I purchased a new set of tires, at 4k, one tire was just about bald. At 4200, one tire had the tread partially seperate, at 5100 miles, the next tire seperated. Im almost at 8000 miles and the 4tb is seperated. The company is replacing them, however, I will never run them again. They were supposed to be a heavy duty commercial rated tire. Im running them on an 18 ram 2500 diesel that carries a lot of weight.
Back in topic somewhat, has anyone ever had a set of tires that seperate? I purchased a new set of tires, at 4k, one tire was just about bald. At 4200, one tire had the tread partially seperate, at 5100 miles, the next tire seperated. Im almost at 8000 miles and the 4tb is seperated. The company is replacing them, however, I will never run them again. They were supposed to be a heavy duty commercial rated tire. Im running them on an 18 ram 2500 diesel that carries a lot of weight.
The only tires I have ever had separate were old dry rotted junkers. Never a new set
The only tires I have ever had separate were old dry rotted junkers. Never a new set
Same. I seldom drive my truck so it mostly sits. I had a set that probably only had maybe 8K miles that started shedding the caps. Even though they didn?t have a lot of miles they were probably six or seven years old and the truck is stored outside in the weather.
The worst ones were on my mom's old ride. Parked the damn thing at Walmart, came back outside and the tread was laying flat on the ground under the inflated tire. Fun times.
In the 80s when we were dirt poor and bought some PepBoys tires.
I think that used to be common back then to a degree.
Sounds like a bad batch of tires or this is a questionable brand?
Usually, tire failures are down to overloading or improper inflation (insufficient pressure for load). 4 on the same vehicle would tend to indicate an issue with the tires themselves, as the fronts are not usually as heavily loaded.
Also: Technicians read codes, interpret flow charts, and replace parts until the idiot light stays off. Mechanics find root causes and solve problems. [Neene1]
Also: Technicians read codes, interpret flow charts, and replace parts until the idiot light stays off. Mechanics find root causes and solve problems. [Neene1]
A couple decades ago, we had a Dodge Caravan that occasionally kicked off the cruise control on long trips. Would also cut off the engine and lock the steering. Took it into the Elway dealership several times where the techs ran their diagnostics, took my money and never could fix the problem. On one trip to the northern sticks of Maine I pulled into a Dodge dealership figuring I would take a chance that they might be able to figure it out. The entire crew was out for lunch. Waited about 20 minutes for them to return. Explained the problem to the head mechanic. About 10 minutes later he came out with a solenoid in hand pressing down on it with his ear right up against it. Showed me he could feel and hear a slight hitch in the function. He couldn't guarantee it was the fix, but I was willing to take the chance. Cost me a little over $80 parts and labor. Throughout our 2400 mile trip back not a single problem. So yeah, I'll put my trust in the old mechanic sitting in the corner with the dirty rag hanging out his back pocket every time. The guy they call over whenever the tech savvy guys can't figure it out.
Also: Technicians read codes, interpret flow charts, and replace parts until the idiot light stays off. Mechanics find root causes and solve problems. [Neene1]
[Beer]
A tool made it?s way to the thread, and I?m not talking about a Torx bit.
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Winner.
HunterCO
03-22-2021, 13:19
Mechanic vs technician made simple. or at least I will try. Mechanic is and expert so they think because they are rocket scientists who know how to use tools and tear shit apart thinking they know their shit. Technician actually knows the engineering of the product how its designed and exactly how it works. There fore can actually repair it correctly vs the mechanic who just throws parts at it and pretends.
Now let me make it clear dealerships employ mechanics because they have computers that tell the mechanics how to repair the vehicle and feel all they need is mechanics. Usually there is one person like me in that back ground to help out all the mechanics that actually knows what is up. Mechanics dont know shit unless the computer tells them how to fix it they think a harbour freight code puller is going to tell them how to fix it. I started out as a mechanic and developed in to a technician many don't they just get the pay check and go home.
Beyond the GM, Ford, and ASE Master certs, are the there other training areas you could pursue?
All those fancy certs, and still can't manage punctuation...
BTW, I was an ASE Master Tech for 13 years, before I opened the motorcycle shop(24 years ago). I, Sir, am a mechanic!
encorehunter
03-22-2021, 15:57
I carry 2k lbs of water twice a week, and 1500-2k lb bales of hay in the bed fairly often. They are 10 ply tires, I run them at 80psi as called for. From the manufacturer, it sounds like it moght be a bad batch of tires, as all had the same DOT code.
HunterCO
03-22-2021, 16:10
Beyond the GM, Ford, and ASE Master certs, are the there other training areas you could pursue?
yep I do all the time could cover the entire house with certifications it never ends I don't pretend to know my shit I make it for real and even then I cant know everything but I try my best vs talking shit and pretending.
HunterCO
03-22-2021, 16:20
I carry 2k lbs of water twice a week, and 1500-2k lb bales of hay in the bed fairly often. They are 10 ply tires, I run them at 80psi as called for. From the manufacturer, it sounds like it moght be a bad batch of tires, as all had the same DOT code.
I feel for you sir hauling water sucks I have a well 10 gallons a minute. The shop and the well is the #1 reason I bought his house. I would have still bought it with out the well for the shop but I feel for you having to haul water sucks. Water is a huge deal in MT many places you have none a well is not even an option.
hurley842002
03-22-2021, 16:28
yep I do all the time could cover the entire house with certifications it never ends I don't pretend to know my shit I make it for real and even then I cant know everything but I try my best vs talking shit and pretending.
Nobody here is questioning your automotive skills or pretending that we are professionals, we are talking shit because of your arrogant ?holier than thou? attitude (and that also extends to other threads). You belittled TFOGGER, and wouldn?t ya know, he also has/had certs. This is a DIY thread for those of us that like to wrench on our own stuff, we show our projects and ask questions. A stand up individual with your credentials would be assisting folks, not thumping your chest and belittling ?backyard mechanics?.
I?ve said my peace, and will not further derail this thread.
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Meh. People who are good at something just do it. People who are less good at something run their mouths about how good they are at something.
Not pointing fingers at anyone here of course. Just making a comment.
HunterCO
03-22-2021, 18:11
Meh. People who are good at something just do it. People who are less good at something run their mouths about how good they are at something.
Not pointing fingers at anyone here of course. Just making a comment.
exactly all day every day!
I have to blabber my mouth at a car forum that HOW GOOD I AM WITH FIXING SHIT including Bugatti, McLaren Aryton Senna, Ferrari Enzo, Lotus Champman, etc.
I have to blabber my mouth at a gun forum that HOW GOOD I AM WITH SHOOTING 10,000m shot and shoot down a falling ballistic missle with the 54 BMG.
HunterCO
03-22-2021, 20:13
I have to blabber my mouth at a car forum that HOW GOOD I AM WITH FIXING SHIT including Bugatti, McLaren Aryton Senna, Ferrari Enzo, Lotus Champman, etc.
I have to blabber my mouth at a gun forum that HOW GOOD I AM WITH SHOOTING 10,000m shot and shoot down a falling ballistic missle with the 54 BMG.
doctors can help you with that problem!
doctors can help you with that problem!
Nah....a doctor would be useless and a waste of money. All he needs is a good nurse.
So I'm working in the garage again tonight, but am really struggling getting all the shafts with gears in place, back in their respective places. Once I do that though, I'm pretty much done. I hope to have an update soon.
So I'm working in the garage again tonight, but am really struggling getting all the shafts with gears in place, back in their respective places. Once I do that though, I'm pretty much done. I hope to have an update soon.
Hope it all goes well for you.
HunterCO
03-22-2021, 23:32
Some windows and not your pc dont ask I have been informed I am not allowed to say shit so this is just for you all to talk about. Dont ask me I am not allowed to say anything to many have got but hurt so just enjoy the destruction and have a laugh. A very sick 6.7L open spear ranch sure knows how to blow shit up. 35k out the door when I got done with it.[shithitsfan]
85619
Great-Kazoo
03-22-2021, 23:56
Some windows and not your pc dont ask I have been informed I am not allowed to say shit so this is just for you all to talk about. Dont ask me I am not allowed to say anything to many have got but hurt so just enjoy the destruction and have a laugh. A very sick 6.7L open spear ranch sure knows how to blow shit up. 35k out the door when I got done with it.[shithitsfan]
85619
it's more to do with your asshattery, than a legit post / reply.
Rather than, I'M A MASTER KNOWITALL . Who spends more time talking shit, and down to other forum members. Than IMO actually participating, in a meaningful discussion.
But not being a master grand know it all. I could be wrong.
But doubt it.
Oh yeah, a coma, and or period, here and there, would probably lend some validation to your know it all status.
Mods. I'll cheerfully take the time out. Before i become less polite.
I got everything back in, and it all spins like it's supposed to.
There was lots of interference between gears and it was generally a pretty big hassle. A big enough hassle that when I started and everything was going smooth I was thinking that this was a pretty easy job, but now I wouldn't really want to do it again. I didn't replace any of the seals, or the o-ring, so I probably will have to do it again at some point. I'll update with photos later (which will look the same as every other photo so far), but right now it's late.
This was the best way I was able to get everything back in. I can't say it's the only way, or even the right way, but I had to try this multiple times to get everything back together. Basically, start by placing the idler gear in position, but don't push it down into the hole at all. Once the idler is in place, you can put the fwd gear set in it's hole as well. You have to leave the idler loose because you'll need to lift it up and down to fit each of the other gears with the shift collars around the idler.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fLPBt5-U7Wnj69D5b4SmVhunl_t_TuPuqOBmX1I8vTd_hJNI-iM_pVgQaDSQKin-V1yBSA_zEZR6O4LeSPo_SndvCeTWFo4rwX7WiiemIzWzchsBvK 6OXAPuT9cLN6zDrYNMC-KpARkNeIs7xx4s1p1g=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
Once the fwd gears are in place (but not all the way in place), you can fit these two shift rails together, and slide them into position together.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3edHTAV_1vLqva-1p-rRPNWI87_l8Abo7yTGrRZLd6j3tbAMKQF1mg3T7gj9ddodhfKj p6rZaiIPS2GJv7g511Sxy65FVZ4UiwQXcrLnLCMnQ2dNafLk7B 3WYZSyr0-yiiXIdF7a2EXK4H6umqZySJI8Q=w469-h625-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eWRAsMaEggCbynu_tFd3WBauocrRLoH6FGdyKZIKtUIpAbPiq zJZn0_4xq5SMWIzIHdFOy2WnPnJ3CeVXk5TCsOJhFqvuJgsx8v PZU14x54xcSm4FGzS_3P0KMIJ2ljGDCRlGWrD5P_wzJannNjkl 6pA=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
You can see in this photo how the shift fork and collars interfere with the idler. This is why the idler is left loose so you can lift it up enough to clearance those shift forks under the top idler gear.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dZFUFjJib7eYavvX1rw59k03NcixHVcmHDN_9qt9EZnrIPdsU jrU9_F67GwSUOAimSCY_KFsIq88wndQqegrV25BqKumlvOAyWp P2QLhMP5NYwdAUUnktVB9ssvpw8cqTXJQ_eBVVKXzhtdfnUdtL s2Q=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
Once both shift forks are in position, you can start to tap everything into place. You'll want to be a bit careful how you go about seating each of the three shafts. I tapped them in with soft deadblow hammer. You need to be careful because the clearance between each of the gears is so tight if you seat the idler too deep, it hangs up on top of the other two gears, and vice versa. So once you start tapping everything into place, once you hit resistance, stop and see what's going on. This isn't something that should, or even can be, forced.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3flvjmLpSUxIE57TsI6vEBTvNwy6Lqu2oe13uop_EhYXM4bfFy kkDs2T2Pdu9RvlDa82RnzToDmueUQ-BTau_24QaCDV8VPqWomitTHOD-RsvDTelbWQQweU80vkNeSNNABHUK8CPcfCPPyAWmrqNhiUA=w8 34-h625-no?authuser=0
When it comes to placing those lower, inside snap rings back, I found that long nose straight, and bent, needle nose pliers works very well.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3e12NJe0QXjhXOr-LBV288HSJXqcGuEkvkEBQ0z03y3csmcZ3Fl5h-nR7GkU6bhGhvRpGkis4jdYem20__o6zsV1rsAno_A29xHchX2B WUvnHLpjRBSYqH7IpypfkOajy5-7FPexX7riBROnwGHAJEFrA=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c324EqGJpiKUhoPNjnfYydkseBePZr_Fuyv_3xpqgRvamSEZS CRgrFvqnDgW4aukzIKJ8bZYceywT2ek_svVWKIuhPYdd1SyTPC Lb6yThNDu7Uk9_NNEZGktS8YhpglujY7r6NZH986HqAhMyTPYY Ycw=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
The snap ring on the idler leaves little clearance to use pliers though. This is where the Jerry method comes in with using a zip tie. If you remember, I tried to use this method with wire on the disassembly, but it kept breaking. I don't know how a plastic zip tie holds up better, but it does.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eii4GGdk1YTTR-pRBIzDUOP8fnaJrAgIp8Ky3-dLr54l212rVIj7msWbUVFWtKOLN2_B_ggkVxaL-Yicnbe7ZjFmcMDv1AXYZMzmF8k3Sls6H7BpcWimxD-BUqTNHYZvc8pV0hCEz7j0AybcELxOGeOw=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
Lorenzo pointed out that each of the seats for the gears has an opening opposite of where the snap ring arms fit. In each case, you can use a screw driver to hold the snap ring in place, then let go, or cut the zip tie at the front and it snaps into position.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dBZvNmFGJ6WcxMf3a3ILLjeAERqujMyYGlV8iM5AV8JGvzmZZ M3J8FnVQcgZl1WKrnr8oOzmwslN-COu8t1zYF65UCe14JKABUyaLSjrzAWAthwgi41OmWu9zIbD7jZ h20GQVxD7ivuFpfzqPPu64fJQ=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
That is all I have for photos. Review Lorenzo's posts about the pins in the shift rails and make sure that you check that you've staked each drive shaft nut as you put them back on, have all your snap rings and bearings back in place (the bearing on the idler gear will no longer have a snap ring so you should have one extra when you're done.
A few notes on reassembly:
- When you get the cases back together, both the shifter housing and the 4wd motor will still be off the case. What I did was put the shifter housing, AND the shifter back into place. This allowed me to shift into 4-low, which allows the shift rail for the 4wd motor to be pushed in. Once you install the 4wd motor, then shift back into Hi range. I then took apart the shift housing, cleaned up the old gasket and sealed with the Ultra Grey sealant that Indy4x sends with the gears.
- Be careful of the 4wd actuator plugs. I broke the same one on BOTH transfer cases that I got.
- At some point, when manipulating the front wheel drive gears, the shift fork fell off and the collar slipped out, exposing these little filler gear things. They all fell out and I had to look at the spare case to figure out which way they go in. This is how they are oriented. You shouldn't have to deal with this at all, but if you do, here is the photo.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fvsHo68cRMmLdT36xSSogy6sxmfvhK1FkLKeuzQm-zpznLPpFYaOnoVVMJ0m4zFdnvaUI8DGoNOd2kDCrWbGf6Q6I5H iKgZHkKGHsWJSMJv0zR8_ssuLpMzSQjEX4AjuDZI1LAy4DND9F wIhOLKm0uEw=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
Overall, I'd put this process as somewhere around a 5-7 on a 1-10 scale of difficulty for DIY stuff. Where I'd rate a battery change as a 1, suspension lift and ball joint flip as a 4, and a diff drop and locker install as a 5.
Honestly, I haven't done a ton of vehicle stuff in my life, so I'm not the best judge. I don't have much experience, but in doing this I realized that I've got quite a lot of tools that make this easier (3-jaw puller, hydraulic press, etc).
I'm sure this could have been more thorough, and I feel like toward the end I got a little worn out and just wanted to finish and didn't take every possible photo. I hope this helps people in the future tackle this job. Enough people on here have done this that there should be help for anyone who attempts.
Bonus photo: The 41mm socket that I made, worked for turning this nut on, and torqueing it back on again.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fJ0YZllJsk07wJsu5QzVra9qvOuUGVmcA1BbQKwbodYhFJz3V S8eShD_AkxruqatgdqEYsGAh92e71pzAgsHxgkISS9-wHjVio8V-gY0aLffERavHDelUB-BCK8EukjDLihlAkpNqTy4vcDtRORMoCEw=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
I am a dumbass.
I tapped my car with my wife's car on a driveway.
Truck* has been buffed and touched upped. Looks okay, but my wife's vehicle will be a 1/2 day project. :(
*taco
My wife did that the other day backing into the driveway through all the drifts, with MY car, hitting her car. Fortunately, all my cars are old and dented when I buy them so it doesn't matter. She didn't actually damage anything though.
I jokingly said to my wife " you could have guide me or warned me about this" and that got her [Mad].
If she is in good mood after work, I can probably work on her car later this week. If she is still not on good mood tonight,i might be doing 4 coats of spray till 3am starting tonight. [LOL]
TailDragger
03-26-2021, 09:42
Latest project. 1931 Model A. Ground up build late 40's traditional hi-boy roadster. Only modern thing on the car will be the new Burtz reproduction 5 main crank engine. Modern internals but looks exactly like it should externally. The guy that just started selling the engines has been working on them since 2005, pretty interesting stuff. http://www.modelaengine.com/
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachments/img_2843-jpeg.4956509/
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachments/img_3008-jpeg.4956518/
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachments/afd0562e-1a50-411c-b5b2-535a004dc49d-jpeg.4957581/
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachments/015e21a3-ca8d-44af-be5b-07d437f46fd5-jpeg.4962334/
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachments/f7ea8b32-f5b1-4f1c-bd87-1c37067ca727-jpeg.4974240/
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachments/8a5553dd-9794-441f-a3e2-bd861a077230-jpeg.4978704/
Fentonite
03-26-2021, 09:48
Wow, that’s really cool. Any idea how long it’ll take?
TailDragger
03-26-2021, 10:45
Wow, that’s really cool. Any idea how long it’ll take?
Thanks!
I get the motor next Wed but still need a body. Roadster bodies are hard to come by and steel reproductions go for around $8k. Short answer, no clue. Longer answer, this summer if I'm willing to sleep on the couch a while.
What it'll look like...
85668
ChickNorris
03-26-2021, 10:50
Thanks!
I get the motor next Wed but still need a body. Roadster bodies are hard to come by and steel reproductions go for around $8k. Short answer, no clue. Longer answer, this summer if I'm willing to sleep on the couch a while.
What it'll look like...
85668
I know a guy who might have what you're hoping for. Lmk if you're interested in talking to him.
Latest project. 1931 Model A. Ground up build late 40's traditional hi-boy roadster. Only modern thing on the car will be the new Burtz reproduction 5 main crank engine. Modern internals but looks exactly like it should externally. The guy that just started selling the engines has been working on them since 2005, pretty interesting stuff. http://www.modelaengine.com/
Cool.
My FIL was in a Model A resto club many years back. I'll have to see if I can dig up some photos. They were all true to original build guys (whatever you call that) though.
https://imgur.com/a/5FfEvQI
TailDragger
03-26-2021, 12:48
https://imgur.com/a/5FfEvQI
Cool pickup, don't see too many of those around.
TailDragger
03-26-2021, 12:50
I know a guy who might have what you're hoping for. Lmk if you're interested in talking to him.
If you know anyone with a 28-31 roadster body, I'd really be interested in chatting.
Thanks
I am going to post a photo tomorrow on 1/3 of red neck body work I've performed on a like new vehicle.
Wife not happy..... lol
Who knows about these vehicles? Is TheNash my guy on something like this?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ul2d0x__px4&ab_channel=MickWilson
Who knows about these vehicles? Is TheNash my guy on something like this?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ul2d0x__px4&ab_channel=MickWilson
I know a little bit about them from a guy I know who knows a lot about them. They are not that common so parts are kinda scarce.
They seem unique. The crane motor is apparently a Hercules 4 cyl 327.
ASE test kids flexing certs and shiny unused tools and Irving is the man actually getting after it!! [ROFL2]
High five!
Speaking of, the low gears got installed, the clutch is in, everything is back together enough for a test drive up and down my street. Only up and down the street because it's currently straight piped until I finish building the rest of the new exhaust. Well, if you count a California (and now Colorado) legal CARB certified CAT as straight piped.
The clutch pedal feels super light compared to before, but the engagement is right away now, instead of the last inch of travel. I still need to cut and reposition my shifter since the body lift.
The 3:1 gears feel nice though. Can't wait to get out onto a shake down trail or two before Moab. Trying to get at least the sliders built before that trip in May.
So I've got most of the exhaust done.
Back story: My neighbor just did another motor swap and has the Toyota 3.4 in his truck. Mine is a 3.5, so they are pretty similar in size and power. He had to get all new exhaust to make it fit and went with 2.5" because he plans on finding the Toyota super charger at some point. He got a magnaflow cat and muffler, then offered me the rest of his 2.5" pipe. I ordered a Magnaflow cat and muffler as well. We're both in the camp of not needing, or wanting a loud exhaust. His sounds factory, and he feels it's too quiet. So we were both anticipating what mine will sound like. I got a much smaller muffler and I think it's a bit too loud. To be fair, it's a little tough to tell driving around with no shift boots where I can see the ground, so it sounds louder than I would like. It doesn't help that I haven't continued the exhaust out the back either. Neither of us was able to fit the V-band correctly so it doesn't leak. He welded his closed, but I'm going to try fitting it a few more times first.
Here are the photos of the difference in muffler size.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3f6bDSx3sky_-BeooAakSMmqFQaG_26tIIpq1xX9wEThRbVq5RRY0-LFHIZhs9Ewbozp_Gi3qiKPjBg9Y8Qe2if4LrRUedqwOQ774IY8 byn8DuR9qeYKgUdpIgH7waJ64f6UQdfosFQahmkFI1W49tMgQ= w963-h625-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3duEjKUz4sAwXI55T6LNHXZb4uw8DhrjdPL6MW_hnJOGeK812k gsRNjZ-99EQ_O-AO0WgDTu5-1MwBxj5oaL59-wePWym_a7BFZuDFezb4K73fuBhPnKWL_U6uxeb-dE-yClMkKCHpSkjoeTXiXQSig3g=w936-h625-no?authuser=0
The factory muffler is significantly larger in every dimension, and the new Magnaflow is a straight through design as well. I'm happy with having at least three more inches of ground clearance though. You can see that the one time we took it out last year on a Middle Saint Vrain that I smashed it on a rock. It was already rusted through, but after I crushed it, it just added one more exhaust leak.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c0kMn2_sQkRWn8ogWN7bvPB4Wf5i4pzidQDyDI2G8KeCdGjty JfSHizB1pOgNV5_NtMMWYGgzxMsjtbTQeRl2yKTTD_aUaDNvlL Tbm4gRCnzGdmWf-ljWHCp7pmoke-VLO6S0Uz97tXtSLncKVnim1EA=w931-h625-no?authuser=0
Welds aren't great, and I ended up just using regular carbon steel filler, but it was a fun first time experience. It was a bit of a challenge to get the bends to line up, but I'm glad for the experience.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dkJvFBKjWlV2nmN6SATWv5Z7EC_QAzYwV3nWQzbc7fR4NXUSR rUgr898BEzFTfgs1bMWiKjjL0YXSaNx6HHrSIyYJ-cRwfu_XsQMvJhiVBZWg2brGgydOzJnDU1kHmkK-4kjl-s-7myw_NXN2hUaGQ-g=w1366-h616-no?authuser=0
Oh yeah, as I was working in the garage, I was getting an increasingly worse headache. I was wondering to myself why I had a headache and remembered that when I was trying to fit the muffler up, it slipped off the pipe and the full weight of it fell right onto the bridge of my nose. Weird thing to forget about a few minutes later!
Forget getting hit in the brain bucket weird? LOL.
hurley842002
04-12-2021, 03:13
Oh yeah, as I was working in the garage, I was getting an increasingly worse headache. I was wondering to myself why I had a headache and remembered that when I was trying to fit the muffler up, it slipped off the pipe and the full weight of it fell right onto the bridge of my nose. Weird thing to forget about a few minutes later!
I was thinking it may have been the Cayman Jack margarita you were drinking. Always enjoy watching your progress, it's nostalgic for me, as I miss tinkering on projects. I have a few things I need to do to the Xterra, with the most immediate project being tie rods, I have the parts to replace all of them, but still looking for the motivation, I suppose wearing out my new tires could be adequate motivation, yet here we are.
My brother has a 1980 Toyota 4x4 pickup he's willing to sell to me for a good price, that would make for some excellent thread fodder, but I'd have to get it from Pueblo West to Tucson, knowing me I would attempt to drive it all the way (I've been known to make road trips in questionable vehicles). The pickup runs just fine, but it could use some love elsewhere. I suppose I could just bring my tools and cross my fingers, it's a basic enough vehicle that I doubt there is anything on the truck I couldn't repair.
I got into trouble for drinking that margarita.
I'm sure we could find a buyer for that pickup that's closer than New Mexico to save you the drive. ;)
What needs doing on the tierods?
Update: The V-band doesn't leak, I just didn't have it lined up when I clamped it down. I think V-bands are known for leaking, so I want surprised, but I'm pretty happy that I did it correctly.
A friend of ours put some of that Blue Def stuff in her Silverado, but accidently put it in the fuel tank instead of wherever it's supposed to go.
Bad juju. Very bad juju. $15K worth of bad juju.
hurley842002
04-13-2021, 02:54
I got into trouble for drinking that margarita.
I'm sure we could find a buyer for that pickup that's closer than New Mexico to save you the drive. ;)
What needs doing on the tierods?
Ha! I'm sure we could, considering he'll sell it to me for $2k, runs fine, and has good tires, just all cosmetic. Was perusing some online sights, and these pickups are being listed for upwards of $40k in pristine, just insane! Obviously his is a far cry from that, but I think he would prefer to keep it in the family as opposed to selling for a higher price.
Inner passenger is shot, but I just got both inners and outers to do a full replacement at once.
ChickNorris
04-19-2021, 09:21
If you know anyone with a 28-31 roadster body, I'd really be interested in chatting.
Thanks
I know of a 29 roadster glass body & doors for around 2k but it's in Washington state. Lmk & I'll forward the info to you. Pm'd you also.
whitewalrus
04-19-2021, 10:19
A friend of ours put some of that Blue Def stuff in her Silverado, but accidently put it in the fuel tank instead of wherever it's supposed to go.
Bad juju. Very bad juju. $15K worth of bad juju.
Ouch didn?t think would be that much in damage!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ouch didn?t think would be that much in damage!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yeah, I could see it being irritating, but for $15k, someone got raked over the coals pretty good.
So I got my transfer case all buttoned up, the clutch replaced, and finished the exhaust from the collector back. I had test driven around town a few times with all the shifter boots off and a hole through to the ground. Everything was fine as far as I could tell. When I finally got everything buttoned up (I had to modify my shifter due to the 1" body lift), I was excited to take it out and hear how the exhaust sounded without a hole in the floor. I drove my kid to school (1.5 mile round trip) and there was a noise. Not a good one. I'll spare you the trouble shooting and just get down to what it was.
This is the transfer case spinning with the transmission in neutral and the clutch engaged.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ItI2kFdevPg&ab_channel=StuA
Here is the transfer case spinning with the transmission in fifth gear and the clutch engaged.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_MCYYxE3SGM&ab_channel=StuA
Not what you want to see when you drain the oil.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3frBPDhGuxKlyS3-SF9Sn8T58LgPjaFpOqCD2imU4jaLwKLR0zGAnTjGr9X6BxObNk cp_ThgGOdDU54Bojvc777Ykk9KbnKhbRRnDxz3jvP_6-cz83NqYZiafjMq6rre90zjmmoptuTvFfWTOUxkOvkNw=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3e0KkwS95YuWt9K7phPkhRnlZRX-m0tBS7EOLbjKtc04t0seFgPsTAJCRPCDhTbxBtPCMN0E25IlUN o-3Q-9RrSkWfUYXATSbm9dENplTzW1tkYWcOzvI_72jF6GmvIaAT0n4 tWrTUU6HVwV3C-w2OMWw=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
Here is the damage on the 4wd shaft.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3crXbS2Bin1T5-85ewptuW0k_i7QRPt5L4ZjxYzRSiBDZeZFpDPuA2mFJ4q5dMwW e_oao7P1NMXOItl1e78sigWOixaDDQZzdNqgXBdr6TckO6PJjO Kddy--UdFFXHB3WrQpCBpzPMzrDLVGxC0nUGYxA=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fWor27RCsYqJMNtMzrfhvfveG4uNEqjtKk0iAn-1tHuO5zaQdaIRcECzusPKIblWCJcGTW2B0pMr5daeHEEkZG186 X20KxpQ_0G7SdxLiISVP6dNGvv5fQq-OlLjkrfi50bLj5jPQiqiwnd1kDNIqtSA=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
The interference, and the noise, is coming from these teeth making contact.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dFhSSrOWZ7OmSn5AaPZSCc3TKSmsNM8MsT2xs3Svw6q5vt9bx fy9Wr5ftUD_hmikmuB9to1g9C_MPpTdHgAAzjteBOd6gxVOj75 Zoj2r2NueD5KLrhDTbOJMDRmnyzALN1GCsD88mAnUK-CvYsKmUKJg=w967-h625-no?authuser=0
Here's what happened. The first time when I had all three shafts out and was trying to juggle them all back together into the case, the 2wd-4wd hub clutch slipped all the way off the gear and the dog teeth shown in this diagram fell out. Well, one or two of them fell out. I didn't check their orientation before I removed the third one.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eJvt3cyy3Ihq3KcX3u08yfu0cWuqmmgLs4TDOgmHoXszGvOn4 rYwRPpC2CQmIBsdQ3KOU2M312hgZjJBkiZ5GantKeqdIrxh_nE FyEHxsQUKNFsjfbrik_V70QkPghpuvZzp4ZbcWU3dN67oynXCg 7Xw=w649-h562-no?authuser=0
I looked at the spare case, but could only see a small edge of the dog teeth, using a mirror, and I determined the orientation from that. Well, I determined wrong and put them in backward. That caused them to somehow displace those internal snap rings you can see in the diagram and that was the strips of metal stuck to the drain plug magnet. Without those snap rings in place, the gear had enough play to cause the teeth to chatter together like you hear in the video. Thank goodness I still have that extra case because I was able to just take that entire 4wd shaft out of the spare case and put it into mine. In a record time repair (for me), I was able to pull the case, crack it open, figure out the issue, pull everything apart, and get it all back together, and installed in just one day. That is an absolute miracle for me. It once took me three days to replace a single seal.
Anyway, I've got about 50-60 miles on it with no bad sounds (that weren't there before anyway). A couple more trips around town and I'll drain and refill the t-case fluid again. Thanks for following along.
Oh yeah, I didn't know about this picture in the manual that I have. The guy helping me on the Isuzu board said he thought I installed them wrong, and by the time he posted that picture I was way past that so I just kept going. Lesson learned.
This is how we learn new stuff...
Pretty much. I could have paid someone at least $1,500 to do the clutch, gears, and exhaust for just the labor, but then I wouldn't have learned a thing or had the confidence to take stuff apart when I need to. Also, I wouldn't know that I need to replace my U-joints or that I've got some rust mitigation to take care of on the frame.
Should I just make an insurance claim on the rust? How does that work?
I did a 722.9 Transmission service done yesterday. This was much more difficult than previous 722.9 Transmission service due to vehicle being much lower. I had to use Ramp+bricks to raise the front and jack stand for the rear.
I go to rec center 4x a week, but my entire body is sore from doing this. [LOL]
DenverGP
05-01-2021, 20:23
Not sure if you guys remember the crash pics from the 69 Opel my dad helped build:
https://www.ar-15.co/threads/172222-General-vehicle-thread?p=2211258&viewfull=1#post2211258
But it's been resurrected. Just fired up the new 632 cubic inch 1200+ hp motor.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8SJrf3RJ13c
SideShow Bob
05-07-2021, 15:35
It?s back with a vengeance!
About a month and change ago, I posted up pictures of a wiring connector chewed up under the hood of my truck. I repaired the damage and thought I was good, Now I know it is a squirrel, I caught it when I opened the hood of my truck. It got away before I could get the phone out & get a picture.
This time, it built a nest and destroyed three wiring connectors and started to chew into the main bundle going into the cab through the firewall.
I even used that anti-rodent from Honda, well, it could have been some counterfeit stuff off of Amazon...... The damn squirrel ate almost all the tape and part of all three connectors and a lot of the plastic wire looms of three differing sizes. Guess I will have to soak everything under the hood with that lion piss stuff after I repair it again.
86098 86099
those antifreeze 5gal bucket rat trap might help.
Super lazy post because I'm tired and don't have time to elaborate. I just copied and pasted what I posted elsewhere.
Okay guys, I'm being lazy on this. It's not set up quite how I want the final to look, but I'm really pressed for time before our Moab trip. It's been literally ten years since I decided I wanted to make a tire cover for my Amigo. I never got around to it, and when I got this Trooper, I had this idea right away. At least it only took me a year this time.
I took a bunch of photos in case I was going to do a build thread, but since it's not quite done yet, and this is not my thread, I'll spare you most the photos and just get the important ones in there so you can see my thought process and what I was going for.
I'm running 33's so the factory cover doesn't fit, but I liked the way it looked. So last year I roughed out a cut and tossed it into the attic. Last night I drilled all the holes and installed the grommets.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fj7-yoO_1t4ZJ0JQK-u5uisDyvVgqUUwGS3Ae076sKfENbqE1R3r0Rp3vhcPisISuiX-41OOjF04QYlQZD5pdyBUc5YkikiyS8ac51RThSHZMTd4rNe73g bwiPfWJc17aTg7tYD0bmmI3TQjpJTecoEA=w780-h625-no?authuser=0
I was trying to match the body trim color and this was as close as I could get on short notice. This is a Sunbrella Toasted Beige. It's a dyed fabric with UV protectant, so it's basically made for tire covers. I'm not sure why, but it's advertised as fire resistant fabric as well. I wanted it to be able to drain moisture out the bottom so I some very durable mesh I have sitting around.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dxhrYaR2lLSTujZbIxQ0EwfXcJ4zy2kU0xxjjNp0gs9fiIiBv JIrRfd_LGCOE--QseVr_BjQ1hlxGXdcpw0CEZ4rM99Xq82PaJ0WAgwE58nDWRFEe p9xJmVdvvOXFpQ9qGdIXFelCiwdu6vET1wtJEuA=w718-h625-no?authuser=0
I have my doubts about how fire resistant it is, because the second I put the hot iron on it to set a line for sewing it melted. Right on the top of course. Oh well.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3ctjIFaPyn1TLSHJe5axdtSbI9gKoAzI1rO0GhlgNwoauQpbBE TQKbXhBa1sPJDPpzhees_UV7abas9PDvgup121E10_hKO9PFDs nCA7MweecrJDClVAyxDQhN1lsM2CXqsHb1aJF_ZQ-QmF1T3Mke-9g=w793-h625-no?authuser=0
You can see how bunched up it is at the bottom. There are ways to mitigate this with the sewing, but I'm in a hurry. Oh yeah, when I "stitched" the hard cover to the soft cover I was off one grommet. It's not permanent, so I can go back and fix it. This was essentially a 1-1.5 day project.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3ct9wjsB0ZJ0Xvz-L09aeoUjn4sJrHe5GZD4_3B2uqTUCnjaoDb2Sv0RbOtndM2kYH mb1O56WfBYzp7rHwMPHdxKHArFqyJVal0yT6v_b_4tbbnGG340 rDeDCOqbYJDXcrWrgCBpZazvCWoiFQ00s3oqA=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
It's difficult to see here, but I put corresponding grommets into the soft cover and used a simple back stitch to secure the two pieces. Part of the issue is that the tire contacts the door handle, so I can't get the side piece to fit all the way around the back of the tire to help take up slack. I wasn't sure how much material I was going to need so I'm running with a lot of extra and it gives the whole thing a bit of a saggy appearance at the moment.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eldIVnQc0j1K7m3KiyEg63GbBj0rbth5QMcS5bsm2-H0IW3-F-2CcoTmxBmtMCSBgxZQhPOxahd6EqJifckEXn-iMwM29C-Eq-_tQL-MqmDx0zStL-DxdeQEVxzxcBDNGbPIM34jktUvEj2-q5AX1hnA=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
I worked it around and got it to look a bit better when I pulled it outside to test my new sliders. It looks a lot better outside than up close in my garage. This slider isn't really finished yet and I haven't even built the passenger side kick out yet. Anyway, hope you enjoy the concept. When I have more time I'd like to design a cover with a zipper on the front that has pockets and all kinds of cool stuff. That'll be for some time down the road.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dNfCcEED0SeETZRKSwqIgcuoy13wEF-T1bRn3xTaRCu5buKkdS6OpXeLaht8XAL4zauyIC0PmtXoPeq12 76XeGkJd3cB4rFP7kxMvc2l_3nQ91ZUaRyPcTkjuxPEycJvNIU av23LmotpulrTfTOlDTCQ=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
Here are more slider pictures, even though they aren't done and aren't great. Hard to see in photos, but you get the idea. The main tube and all the frame connectors are in black bed liner (which comes right off). I'm going to do the kickouts in bedliner, with skate board grip along the top, then go over the kickouts with the color matched paint I bought from Napa that matches the trim. $38 a can or aerosol to go that way. Pretty pricey for something that's going to just get scraped off on rocks...but I had a vision. Yes hi-lift jacks are sketchy.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d51DAqO11UAIjnG9Lqs8_ZEEukfz5v8dYmxiSMVbsb9Qz9p9t R_D5q0iXn3Ygs6uclMpifIgBA49reeuH85v6L00t4FSzTLiCXj Rnj5S9HyUM7FreI5wMaAqA6sPkh5VoRSf8WUn2l_2yrs-R78kOhaA=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
Don't zoom in, lots of tight welds and clean up and grinding to do. Generally you don't want to grind down structural welds. A lot of the big chunky stuff you see has multiple passes though so I feel comfortable grinding it down before paint. There is a trim piece that goes right above the slider.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fs0z9GcASB5r_3M1DMw3U1G3keDz2FMGNtxH4j3s16rnCUsFr fnVfI0uaRHR4wuI_jttCCAQAaj2iarX9HdKf1kRKP4wb4fFmv-SQ2uVbgPdKuPfzrjkdzcUYWa468ndmnXCzRapXLRWRid_wrXar z3A=w1366-h616-no?authuser=0
Main leg and the arms that connect to frame are 2"x2" square that is 3/16" thick. Probably too thick, and more heavy than I anticipated, but I bought the stick last year and needed to get it made. The kickouts are 1.75" tube in .120 wall. Zero flex when I had it on the hi-lift though.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dxeevrmEgOeiXWqQ9XcDc0UXDVCcdSboEOHpOtuD0caXGZVRf F1S9bkpRFsAGij0yAvihBJ4YWd2fGw_mrZUw6nB1UhWIKOcOYq WYGeke0F8abAUHTB_nX4BIQjDlPicXFFs9MuauU0Y_FsKeLUEE IvQ=w1366-h616-no?authuser=0
This project, and every project I ever do, has taught me that I can have elaborate, and clean looking designs in my head, and they are very difficult to bring to reality; especially when it's your first time doing something. I've watched hours of YouTube videos about notching tube and fabricating sliders and bumpers and what not, and it's always much more difficult going hands on. I can't even tell you how long it took me to figure out the notching for the kick outs. I ended up having to sleep on it and stumbled across a DIY tool to get it done. You can measure 1/3 of the diameter and draw all the lines and that works fine for 90 and 45, but I only had one notch and it was this stupid angle. I went as far as notching some scrap I had laying around just to force the concept into my brain, but I eventually had to use this DIY method instead. Glad I did.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cHfeJyspWXkeC2j-U7k3EPVy-oLzr4nwEsiZazPl9wDulaUAMTbcguNy6w5zqv2O15oBs0tQgPw C5I0YIujjSJvue5e6UuQLhnfOn59f4EDyOUdNrfIW3otpYCQ4f wFKoUz0qM5BO31YwSPuFrvHAfPg=w1366-h616-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cJcpwW_Z5wRlvZMt2gNIbyDTXqd-15mqtRY9v2GQGGyJZr1NP11SmuecAsCYEi2glFpd2Ry-Ozml9G5Kr0pnAev1a8idhhYCNBw5XuC4Bt1UFpjQThdpWloigX DhRbaxykrGrNIjcySdT_pime0sj-Ww=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cu_WOT1Inh_m8zYi667i-Cqg0c4uepReNY3LiorxCQxzpn2mhxgp7ibFNk4cngdVEGk1b_f QYIo3CQ7pG5aPq39LoppLE_QPeOeAaz1M6G79iNZUKjgzXSm4P mojcNANaMWjfbOcfakqVYSvOcbo3kaA=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
Okay, did a little nip/tuck on the cover, and flipped the tire carrier over to provide clearance between the tire and handle. Looks worlds better now that I've tightened it up and it's not all saggy and crooked. I could put the plastic over the top of the fabric and it'd hide how bunched up the edge looks, but then I'd have to reshape my cut around the perimeter because it's just a rough cut. That's a project for another time though. It takes 15-20 minutes just to thread the two pieces together.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fBbh5h7DMUTy_QKGIxaDvurfAa0mKBE8_PQRHmwCt9KEwMFU3 _0VQYdLd17l3A-I8Qa22SnlUo_5-g8bDhQsLc0f2CVDkPJ0vUr9RY3B2Yc1bZ-iKqHQPCZUZF73_C4xKhKezuJityr_cJnR28tNjD2A=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3ddyPSTCYWfW_8ISOBdqY6_e8n13sLiLMlWrIGKReIddTbW4LE CLDJOO3vcfK3kMPvy2ZNUF2Cncd7myXODB8YcV9PzrM-1azuQNA_RPCbG4Jb_o3JiG9XnH30wSA7ONy_R5_zF3A1tVk18W d4gglh8ug=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cpn4aKVbxehh6lovAOtuxHiMhd3DgHShQ675urky5bc8dN0Dx Lu3uSDJyE_gcrWfEEuRxeKXLGdb6SmHSroipij5HBJfj_UySMZ kRtjtd5oKJKqqln2KbfHhZTtBmDYYAy6SgPk4e_-x7oDxsnP_1d2g=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
I lol?d at the painters tape.
You should run the toll roads that way.
I don't rant people to be able to identify the one of a kind vehicle I've been building and keep posting 100's of pictures of.
Great-Kazoo
05-13-2021, 10:26
Okay, did a little nip/tuck on the cover, and flipped the tire carrier over to provide clearance between the tire and handle. Looks worlds better now that I've tightened it up and it's not all saggy and crooked. I could put the plastic over the top of the fabric and it'd hide how bunched up the edge looks, but then I'd have to reshape my cut around the perimeter because it's just a rough cut. That's a project for another time though. It takes 15-20 minutes just to thread the two pieces together.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fBbh5h7DMUTy_QKGIxaDvurfAa0mKBE8_PQRHmwCt9KEwMFU3 _0VQYdLd17l3A-I8Qa22SnlUo_5-g8bDhQsLc0f2CVDkPJ0vUr9RY3B2Yc1bZ-iKqHQPCZUZF73_C4xKhKezuJityr_cJnR28tNjD2A=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3ddyPSTCYWfW_8ISOBdqY6_e8n13sLiLMlWrIGKReIddTbW4LE CLDJOO3vcfK3kMPvy2ZNUF2Cncd7myXODB8YcV9PzrM-1azuQNA_RPCbG4Jb_o3JiG9XnH30wSA7ONy_R5_zF3A1tVk18W d4gglh8ug=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cpn4aKVbxehh6lovAOtuxHiMhd3DgHShQ675urky5bc8dN0Dx Lu3uSDJyE_gcrWfEEuRxeKXLGdb6SmHSroipij5HBJfj_UySMZ kRtjtd5oKJKqqln2KbfHhZTtBmDYYAy6SgPk4e_-x7oDxsnP_1d2g=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
Who cares about the aesthetics, when you can always redo it at a later date. The question is. Does it work for you? If it survives the trip, you did a good job.
Well, I could pull the back plate out something like 4-5" before I adjusted everything. That had me concerned about it flopping around on the highway. As far as aesthetics, I designed and built it to look good, so it was kind of a failure when it didn't look good.
With that said, I'm so sick of building these sliders that they are going to look like hell once I paint them, unless I get out the bondo...
Does anyone own an EV as a business vehicle or fleet?
How much are you guys saving per 12k mi relative to Corolla or elaborate, etc?
Are deduction same as ice? (mileage ded)
Just got back from the Trooper's first Moab trip. Drove it there and it drove me home. I broke the driver's CV messing around on this option obstacle on Metal Masher. I bit off a bit more than I could chew here. I didn't break the axle under wheel speed or hopping like I would have expected. I was trying to turn the front wheels and things were very tight. I think I bound it up and it just broke under pressure. We couldn't pull me up over the top, so you can see the chain at the back we had to dig out the hitch and pull me off backward. I was 3 miles into the trail when I broke, but not even to a named obstacle yet when I broke. I continued to do the trail in 3wd and being pulled up stuff it wouldn't climb for the next two miles until we got to the top. From there I was able to do another mile in 2wd as it was all downhill. Fortunately there was a cut off road halfway through Metal Masher so we didn't have to try and limp through another 6 miles of trail!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c6_CUb_9pUq9Vynwyogra9a5-TzNhJrVrQFM_4opwbSVtoIxGa_yIIhFZUvSWhq-6p0jiKhtZg7VxU3QNnmH60gVWcSGzj4P9KmHkNsIY_PUv9P-mLMLVGQqJYjFqxAk20JApzJtxWzRAf3yJxA6IrRQ=w863-h625-no?authuser=0
Very clean break on the CV. We zip tied it to the sway bar linkage and continued up the trail. Of course the zip tie broke right off and it bounced around a bit and made some gouges in the lower control arm. Nothing serious though.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c6raf88fsJOb1bBhPrF5AUm4xUD61_dgULCOCu3RthVo5BFvl bIWJ7Er70mEYU9FSDWoPbCQrHl-f6HeLvfHugaXzprFOQBb80RClwa3uTy-nPdjLDRXK3aYwy54bU99jFYdwGfaMXEv7AvuUCcHP9zg=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cRKTw2OkzIrYhR6VuxAzcKfT9gCxmZI1WTkhgMK8mDLXgw9Og MQuO311K99HNv6EZuPpwp4aOXBYLOBkhcPqVYLk5lu7f3awRV1 LK1MU6Xfva3J-JVVGjsKPnXwUvlQEWvW12L3JAySVcm_mCDbhBsXQ=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
On the last day we were just messing around on the flat parts of Kane Creek and I drove through a line that flexed the rear enough to snap the sway bar and dump a coil completely out of the truck. It was trapped in the suspension and when I touched it, it fell out onto the ground and rolled away. I wasn't messing around or trying to be cool or anything. In fact, I didn't even know it happened. I had stopped to wait for our friends in a Subaru Legacy (that's another, more fun story), and they actually heard the spring noise and alerted me.
This is what I had driven through to break the sway bar. The position in the photo is where I backed it up to get enough flex out of the suspension so I could pop the spring back in. There is zero spring retention on the Trooper, so it just slid right in. I tied the spring to the top and bottom perch with para cord just to get me off the trail. I drove home the 300+ miles without a sway bar. I'm probably going to park the Trooper for a while and deal with it later.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3e_zc6TMe0RVa69oqPgJBrAponZJy1cFrsDAa2oq0x-Mz9JinRliK1h62VyomOr8NSudLv0Z7kkHaOn5veHzRqJGBV81s-FS1yogEnyjoYVp2ICnCo5CPVPLZmMk20khPAQAxHy-zAyOWa4iSsS0MNdbA=w970-h625-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fFylGDHYDWKbQ8Ako1lgj6MuA5wvxiEKg6nmzuyOdJx-VC-anpOvB63aQpn91fbvrWbBadb-e-dbipQRs_GRdfu1_C-vUTxPpRCdVTyJqOGsb6M3oOTwDOFDf_fdumCSnzGYKymk-B1wc8h8EtvFCJlw=w996-h625-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eq-ATl14Yz52eQTfrfYGWT9vdE7YMlJUAI8Jx-hq-gJdwZ1hbSujFgAVOc815y7ZsJ8d1c0QbVRNkx2ypdsuJ1pSTkZ BjFTRsFnWYGeb8FBLah8EnhLRlJtw0pDVf4biVYGXu3zvQyKwF iesIwnOMRsw=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
Overall, the road trip alone was over 700 miles so glad I was able to drive the entire way. I've got video footage, but it will take a while before I get any of it up.
Great-Kazoo
05-25-2021, 10:42
Did the CV snap due to angle, or not having a skid plate under it? Looks like you need to step up to the next size or 2 suspension, since stock isn't cutting it.
It isn't really stock, but the only option from here is a solid axle swap, which I'm not sure I'd do on this truck. It wasn't the angle per say because the suspension wasn't really drooped out. I think that neither wheel could really spin much, so it was pretty tight, then I was trying to turn the steering wheel and everything bound up on me.
I take that back, the suspension is basically stock, it's just about 1.5-2" taller with larger wheels and tires. Can't really put a skid plate around the CV, nor is it necessary because nothing can get to it except maybe a stick or something.
Impressive.
I used to wheel my BroncoII like that (and jump it a bit) but thankfully never broke anything.
hurley842002
05-25-2021, 20:42
What year is your Trooper Stu? I just got rid of the Xterra in favor of a more gas friendly vehicle as a DD (Honda Accord), but the plan is to replace the Xterra with an older rig that I don't have to worry about beating up. I like the looks of the Trooper.
Mine is a '99. I like it, but I can't really recommend one unless you want to be off the map all the time for mods and support. There is one forum that I know of, and it gets slower every year. Also, the auto trannies are the garbage GM 4L30E. The vast majority of the Troopers in my model year ('98-'02) are autos. Also, they usually burn oil, usually a quart every 3k miles.
The '92-'97 Troopers in manual can be found more easily. You lose push button 4wd, which some people like, but the transfer case is integrated into the tranny housing. The rear axle isn't quite as strong, but has more gearing options, but like 2 or 3, compared to the ZERO gears for my year rear end. All the front ends of the Isuzu trucks are the same across all models from '88-'04 as far as the diff and shocks. Some are wider than others.
If you want to fabricate, or do something mild (like what I've done) them I think they are fine, as long as you know what you're getting into. They can certainly be had for cheap compared to the Toyotas. The Trooper has a 63" width (same as Toyota FJ80), and a 109" wheel base (FJ80 is 112") for an idea of the size.
hurley842002
05-25-2021, 21:06
Mine is a '99. I like it, but I can't really recommend one unless you want to be off the map all the time for mods and support. There is one forum that I know of, and it gets slower every year. Also, the auto trannies are the garbage GM 4L30E. The vast majority of the Troopers in my model year ('98-'02) are autos. Also, they usually burn oil, usually a quart every 3k miles.
The '92-'97 Troopers in manual can be found more easily. You lose push button 4wd, which some people like. The rear axle isn't quite as strong, but has more gearing options, but like 2 or 3, compared to the ZERO gears for my year rear end. All the front ends of the Isuzu trucks are the same across all models from '88-'04 as far as the diff and shocks. Some are wider than others.
Good info, thank you! I like the older ones as well, and would prefer non push button. The trails out here are a lot different than what I'm accustomed to in CO, and pretty much anything with decent clearance and 4x4 will get you around just fine.
'93-'97 are the same body as mine, but with the older front end and a 3" more narrow width measured at the WMS. Those are all 3.2 motors (both SOHC and DOHC available), where as mine is identical but DOHC 3.5. Both Date ranges are referred to as a 2nd gen, but mine is referred to as '98+.
Couple videos from Moab.
Hell's Revenge
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ri9GzV6y4JM
7 Mile Rim
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9fcGcbefpiY&ab_channel=StuAStuA
Devil's Bathtub
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MYsbDTGUEFQ&ab_channel=StuA
We attempted Potato Salad Hill, but none of us made it all the way up unassisted.
A 1992 Subaru Legacy (Tragon) doing Devil's Bathtub
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AENtBcSEdGI&ab_channel=StuA
hurley842002
05-27-2021, 15:56
A 1992 Subaru Legacy (Tragon) doing Devil's Bathtub
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AENtBcSEdGI&ab_channel=StuA
That?s legit!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Dude, they did the entirety of Hell's Revenge under their own power. They had to get winched back UP a hill to take a better line down one time. Another time they had to get towed up a hill because the fuel filter was clogged and it would lose power at steep angles. I think they changed the fuel filter twice during the whole trip. I was feeling all cool doing Hell's, and they did 99% of everything that I did. Doh.
Oh yeah, they drove that car from Grand Junction and back. Legit for sure.
Fentonite
05-27-2021, 16:37
I replaced this blown up fuel pump a while back:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/zz339/fentonite/001(11).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/fentonite/a/2bc6139b-3716-4e5d-8f5a-65b2bb40f654/p/7318c142-0377-43e4-b05b-4d6c6a5b1fd9)
The Jeep ran fine for a bit, then didn?t. No gas getting to the carb. Replaced the fuel pump again (cheap and easy), no change. I put the intake hose to the fuel pump into a bottle of gas, sucked it up just fine and ran well. That put the problem somewhere behind the pump. I tried to see if I could suck some gas up through the line to the pump, no resistance, just gas vapor (yum). So,
We pulled the tank today:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/zz339/fentonite/IMG_9685.JPG (https://app.photobucket.com/u/fentonite/p/4eea3b4f-3b46-46bd-a147-373179616138)
The hoses from the tank are rotted through - explains why only pulling air.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/zz339/fentonite/001(13).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/fentonite/a/2bc6139b-3716-4e5d-8f5a-65b2bb40f654/p/4503fbd1-7d2a-41e0-88d3-e0b2a1ebb632)
All parts are ordered, hopefully...
Fentonite
05-27-2021, 17:09
And as long as the Jeep is torn apart, I also took the carbs off the Pinz for rebuild, installed a solid state ignition (PinzSSI) and replaced the vacuum lines. Hopefully it?ll be back up to snuff soon.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/zz339/fentonite/001(5).jpg (https://app.photobucket.com/u/fentonite/a/2bc6139b-3716-4e5d-8f5a-65b2bb40f654/p/9c06d263-1fe3-4c3d-b718-a147f64b9657)
Nice work. You going to clean that tank while you're at it? That was the problem with the Subaru. Tank was filthy and they cleaned it, but not all the way so it all broke loose and coffee the fuel filter over and over.
Fentonite
05-27-2021, 17:58
I just ordered a new tank (and sender unit/fuel intake). $75, vs trying to clean a varnished 40 year old tank. I’ll leave that ambitious stuff for guys like you!
Oh yeah, at that price it's a no brainer.
hurley842002
05-27-2021, 19:42
Dude, they did the entirety of Hell's Revenge under their own power. They had to get winched back UP a hill to take a better line down one time. Another time they had to get towed up a hill because the fuel filter was clogged and it would lose power at steep angles. I think they changed the fuel filter twice during the whole trip. I was feeling all cool doing Hell's, and they did 99% of everything that I did. Doh.
Oh yeah, they drove that car from Grand Junction and back. Legit for sure.
That?s awesome! Saw this Subaru earlier, looked like it was on 31?s.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210528/6e3e6211350611353d766119e01d5b29.png
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Great-Kazoo
05-27-2021, 23:59
That?s awesome! Saw this Subaru earlier, looked like it was on 31?s.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210528/6e3e6211350611353d766119e01d5b29.png
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Guy across the road from us. Has a 66 2 dr dodge dart, lifted and on a 4x4 chassis . Among other 4x oddities.
newracer
05-28-2021, 08:41
Couple videos from Moab.
Hell's Revenge
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ri9GzV6y4JM
7 Mile Rim
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9fcGcbefpiY&ab_channel=StuAStuA
Devil's Bathtub
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MYsbDTGUEFQ&ab_channel=StuA
We attempted Potato Salad Hill, but none of us made it all the way up unassisted.
Very nice but that's not Devil's Hot Tub. The way deeper and steeper one is.
It's not titled hot tub, it says bathtub. The hot tub is very clear which one it is, just a few feet away. We watched a guy climb down on his shoes and almost not make it back out.
newracer
05-28-2021, 14:19
Really I don't think any of them have official names. I have seen different names for all of them. First time I have seen one called a bath tub though.
My friends were calling Devil's hot tub Mickey's. Then when we got to Mickey's, there is a plaque bolted to the wall.
hurley842002
05-30-2021, 06:42
How familiar are you guys with Cold Air Intake/Short Ram Air Intake for cars? I've always been a 4x4 guy and never felt the need for this type of setup on my rigs, plus they are no Bueno for water crossing and what not. I've got an itch to tinker with the Accord, and was thinking about adding one. There is an AFE offering that claims 13hp and 16ft/lbs, but I'm highly suspect of those numbers. Basically the 2.4 I4 that is in the car is factory rated at 190hp, and I just want to try and squeeze 200+. Considering a CAI and downpipe with pre cat delete, along with a possible high flow cat (depending on what it would do for my emissions down here). I think with intake and exhaust I could be at or over the 200hp (not WHP, but HP). If I want to go even further, Ktuner makes a touch screen "end user" setup for the car, but we'll see about that. I would love to do forced induction, but there haven't been many turbos done on my particular motor, and it's likely more money than I want to drop for the DD.
I think you're on the right path doing intake and exhaust stove you realistically need both sides. I had intakes on a few cars when I was growing up, but never could afford to mod the exhaust. I've been out of it for so long that I couldn't give you much of an opinion on dollars spent vs butt dyno though.
hurley842002
05-30-2021, 09:06
I think you're on the right path doing intake and exhaust stove you realistically need both sides. I had intakes on a few cars when I was growing up, but never could afford to mod the exhaust. I've been out of it for so long that I couldn't give you much of an opinion on dollars spent vs butt dyno though.
Thanks for the insight, I figure with the way cars are so restricted these days, it?s probably best bang for the buck.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It seemed like back in the '90's you'd do an exhaust on a US truck or sports car and get a lot of gains, but doing the same thing on an import wouldn't get you nearly as much because they were better tuned. I think with the option of a computer tune, you'd get more than back in the day, especially when coupled with opening up the breathing.
I opened the exhaust on my Trooper from 2" to 2.5" and I can't really tell a difference. Then again, I didn't do anything on the intake, and the gearing is so high now that I'd be hard pressed to tell anyway. Not to mention I added at least 80lbs in sliders as well. Not a great example anyway.
I had a cold air intake on a '96 Integra GSR back in the day and I felt like it would more happily get to redline, but I don't remember it really being anything very significant. I'd say if you can afford it and it's not something ridiculous like $500+, then do it anyway.
Total speculation on my part here but I bet even upgrading your intake and exhaust won?t gain you much unless you do some custom mapping/tuning to account for your bolt ons. The stock ECM program is still going to be controlling for a lean (14:1?) burn. Might even have to install some wide band O2 sensors before the tune as the narrow band O2 sensors probably aren?t going to work properly once you start trying to dial in a more stoichiometric air fuel ratio.
Your intake/exhaust combo will probably make some decent noise and you may think it feels faster but the reality is you won?t really gain much if you were to actually run it on a dyno.
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcS8-VfSP8mDETIT0TpS7_FPTGbpF1A0Yrg8Cw&usqp=CAU
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTXsDHUHjTXA-ltJ2XYwyhhnb_HezAJzQtJBw&usqp=CAU
https://imgur.com/gallery/LKHFkf8
https://images.cdn.circlesix.co/image/1/700/0/uploads/memes/9mek6-539fa6b0bc8a2.jpg
Depending on the vehicle, you may see no gains at all. My truck came with an intake, but doing research, they're no better at flowing air than the stock one.
A tune, on the other hand....
In all but a few cases, a CAI is just something they make to part you and your money.
In the case of anything using K&N, it's also a way to let more dirt into your engine. They filter like a screen door.
hurley842002
05-30-2021, 17:42
Depending on the vehicle, you may see no gains at all. My truck came with an intake, but doing research, they're no better at flowing air than the stock one.
A tune, on the other hand....
Thanks for your opinions guys, new territory for me. I may get the Ktuner system first, as would correct any issues done by the other mods.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'd do a search of online opinions about the car and the mod to see people's personal experiences and opinions as well.
Here is the car my acquaintance has. I think his is a V6. I relayed your question to him.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3ePTRMR8xVbb7jAoA0s39HdcsxldGlF4aNPGbOpDI1fCaq8rO0 dDeUWOvjdyYaHlAFaZMwSGLdlX4S1aq1Ry0SEJ7Ui6ADpKfM9W LkZP-fKGjOxjn5iWU0VHrDzdDO1TU4upjFdIKHCDunu2WELYI_yBw=w 834-h625-no?authuser=0
Here was his response.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cRku8CaSBT0lM4FkqmvsByAzji9pYSbSZcc96Xj_P238zHb0O yWRDGTVRLAiMaAOpkbfy2Ut1rpC3hfY6xaq9ZHgH6W0Ieq5_8M VbnpFNWfOIVn-AD4XBdRvGjwDtgctY2helkaUss77QRGNObjIAuKg=w514-h625-no?authuser=0
Looks like cheapy grommets rust after a few heavy rains. Bummer. Anyone have any ideas of what else I could use?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3djCjCih_jCVcydZEX2wdfBmMN0pthKtGbvD_EmtOXs7RRzxz8 M1C6nR3X7FQ0hDkkcMtGUPJk96vHJgOcmnAnl0jYQdaSNOE09f twEmIetiYIGe679Rc5mpN3V0p4eXceivY9kf3jKOdMKoXlBN2N btA=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
buffalobo
06-01-2021, 17:45
Should be able to get plastic or stainless steel.
Stainless would be cool, sounds pricey. Might look into plastic just for future projects though.
Stainless would be cool, sounds pricey. Might look into plastic just for future projects though.
DOT brand
https://www.dotfasteners.com/shop-by-brand/dot-grommets-and-washers/rolled-rim-spur/
I've purchased from this seller (dot marine snaps) and they are legit.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_ssn=northwesttarpandcanvas&_osacat=0&_armrs=1&_odkw=&_from=R40&_trksid=p2046732.m570.l1313&_nkw=grommet&_sacat=0
Didn't see DOT brand grommets, but they have stainless, brass, and black oxide, etc.
BushMasterBoy
06-02-2021, 00:45
We used a ruck cover on our jeep. Link to covers below.
https://picclick.com/Cover-Field-Pack-Rucksack-Backpack-Desert-Storm-Era-192818300174.html
DOT brand
https://www.dotfasteners.com/shop-by-brand/dot-grommets-and-washers/rolled-rim-spur/
I've purchased from this seller (dot marine snaps) and they are legit.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_ssn=northwesttarpandcanvas&_osacat=0&_armrs=1&_odkw=&_from=R40&_trksid=p2046732.m570.l1313&_nkw=grommet&_sacat=0
Didn't see DOT brand grommets, but they have stainless, brass, and black oxide, etc.
That's a good resource, thanks. I've book marked it. I think I have a similar bookmark for anodized metal hardware like D-rings and stuff.
We used a ruck cover on our jeep. Link to covers below.
https://picclick.com/Cover-Field-Pack-Rucksack-Backpack-Desert-Storm-Era-192818300174.html
Those are affordable for sure. Probably even less than I have into mine and I got the materials for cheap.
Jumpstart
06-11-2021, 06:22
Putting on ball joints- upper and lower and outer tie rods on a 2009 Chevy suburban. Any one have suggestions on durable, quality suspension /steering parts that wont break the bank for my big grocery getter?
BushMasterBoy
06-11-2021, 06:55
Putting on ball joints- upper and lower and outer tie rods on a 2009 Chevy suburban. Any one have suggestions on durable, quality suspension /steering parts that wont break the bank for my big grocery getter?
rockauto.com
Rockauto is fine but watch out. My upper CA arms were miss marked and were the standard part number with offset bushings. Pure bs and no support from MOOG. And my car was torn apart when I noticed. Mine is a 05 so somewhat similar to the 09s except I have torsion bars. My observation was that the rubber bushings may look like garbage on the outside but inside they are just fine. So if I had to do it all over. I would replace the Ball joints and steering joints and leave the rest. The UCA is where the alignment is done. Mine were rusted shut on the aft bolt. Check yours before starting the job and order a set of those bolt and a cut off grinder if yours are too. I found the joint press to be the crappiest tool ever but mine was a rental and had issues. Honestly probably faster to remove the arms and get them on a hydraulic press. PM me if you have questions.
Putting on ball joints- upper and lower and outer tie rods on a 2009 Chevy suburban. Any one have suggestions on durable, quality suspension /steering parts that wont break the bank for my big grocery getter?
Putting on ball joints- upper and lower and outer tie rods on a 2009 Chevy suburban. Any one have suggestions on durable, quality suspension /steering parts that wont break the bank for my big grocery getter?
Order of quality for ball joints:
XRF (best, lifetime warranty)
SPICER (Good, OEM on a lot of vehicles, solid reputation)
MOOG (used to be good, but has fallen in quality on ball joints, still better than generic)
Chinese shit and generic parts store (bad)
For Tie rods:
Moog is preferable to generic parts store brands
If you are having a lot of steering shake at higher speeds (based on what you are replacing) you may want to replace your pitman arm as well. They can be a bitch to pull, less so if you just cut off wheel to grind a groove in it and an air chisel to snap it off. Superlift is a good source (reasonable) for a pitman if you have a partially lifted truck. Some replace all their steering components except that, and find that the pitman link itself is loose which is contributing. Normal correction for death wobble is to replace every-freaking thing if you are experiencing that, often everything is contributing. If all else fails once replacing what you want to, add a steering stabilizer. (just a gas shock)
Also amazon is a good source for a lot of those parts by the way. If you are buying Moog, start at moog's website to get part #'s and then take those to amazon.
Also I'll #2 on Bilstein 5100's. Much better bang for the buck than ones like fox and much better than ranchos or whatever was stock. (I'm not chevy). If you still have some steering wobble or your shocks are shot, do the shocks too. You can just unbolt them and compress them by hand, it's not a difficult service. If they don't expand back then they are a few years past expiration :p
But you can't rebuild or recharge the 5100s. Only downside
whitewalrus
06-11-2021, 09:57
Putting on ball joints- upper and lower and outer tie rods on a 2009 Chevy suburban. Any one have suggestions on durable, quality suspension /steering parts that wont break the bank for my big grocery getter?
I would go moog or get the AC delco OE off Amazon
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
With respect to RockAuto, they don't ship to everywhere in Colorado. You're probably alright in Woodland park, but if they don't ship to you, or you don't want to deal with their terrible customer service, you can use the same method of grabbing part numbers from RockAuto, then just going over to Amazon. And then for Amazon, I've purchased a knock off flywheel from Amazon before, had to return it, and buy locally at Napa. Sometimes the reason the same part is half the price online is because it's a knock off.
AC Delhi has 3 levels of parts. OE. Pro. And some jibber version. My dealer runs the pro parts.
FWIW as far as I know Napa doesn't stock Moog. Maybe they just don't stock Moog in the stuff I need but I get the impression they just don't. O'Rileys has been the best source for local here, but pricey. The "A" auto parts store also stocks Moog but I don't have those handy and my brain quit working.
Seriously check broad reviews on moog ball joints on a suburban before buying. Something about them several people have been bitching about lately after they outsourced mfg a few years back. Maybe it has resolved now, maybe it hasn't. They used to be top quality. I've been using Spicer for years myself because XRF doesn't even manufacture what I need across mine.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZuGvx3WYg1k
Interesting history on the Chrysler turbine cars.
Yeah, watched that a couple of weeks ago. Jay Leno owns one and goes into detail in his Jay Leno's Garage video about it.
http://youtu.be/b2A5ijU3Ivs
https://youtu.be/b2A5ijU3Ivs
Tesla Driver Ticketed After Parking 'Foreign Car in Domestic Lot' at GM Factory
You can hate on Tesla, but you can't deny where the vast majority are designed and assembled.
BY
PETER HOLDERITH
JUNE 25, 2021
https://www.thedrive.com/news/41267/tesla-driver-ticketed-after-parking-foreign-car-in-domestic-lot-at-gm-factory
regardless of parts and etc, it is US company.
Anyone drive or own a Mercedes Metris? I'm looking for information
Anyone drive or own a Mercedes Metris? I'm looking for information
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sa8kHgmZIiQ
Plenty of counter YouTube reviews. If you need space, ground clearance and don't want to pay for frills the Metris looks capable. The turbo is worthwhile at altitude
Anyone drive or own a Mercedes Metris? I'm looking for information
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_Vito
86605
My new vehicle. Being built now.
For serious? That looks fun, and dangerous. Do you have a place to fly it? Might be able to help you out with that if you're serious.
Yep. Seriously serious. Got my wing, motor and helmet bought. (I did a budget buy on the commuter car to free up funds). Doing the lessons right now in NoCo.
Appreciate any leads on friendly fly places.
Currently a bunch of folks train and fly out of Centennial Park in Fredrick. But with the development around there it won?t last. [emoji53]
How much space do you need?
hurley842002
06-29-2021, 01:32
Yep. Seriously serious. Got my wing, motor and helmet bought. (I did a budget buy on the commuter car to free up funds). Doing the lessons right now in NoCo.
Appreciate any leads on friendly fly places.
Currently a bunch of folks train and fly out of Centennial Park in Fredrick. But with the development around there it won?t last. [emoji53]
I always thought that would be a ton of fun! There were (up until a year ago at least) a lot of people flying over off of Quincy and Kipling. Seems to be pretty popular here in Tucson as well.
50 to 100 yard square. With not too many tall obstructions. Short mowed or the lines snag.
How much space do you need?
I tried to look up some reviews, but not sure I'm watching the exact thing. Is there a video you could share so we're on the same page?
https://youtu.be/azFaPlle4bA
Tucker is a bit of a media slut but his videos are good. He has been flying for a while so his take offs are smooth.
Also a note. He flies at a lower altitude so denser air equals fast takeoffs.
I see. the 50-100 square yards is what you need for take off/landing, and the lines getting tangled refers to while everything is laying on the ground.
Fentonite
07-03-2021, 11:30
Carbs rebuilt, solid state ignition installed, and all vacuum lines replaced. The Pinz is running like a top!
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/zz339/fentonite/001(15).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/fentonite/a/2bc6139b-3716-4e5d-8f5a-65b2bb40f654/p/87ed6656-7e33-48a6-8898-bd547ea64d95)
You going to get that thing out on a trail?
Fentonite
07-03-2021, 13:30
Hopefully this summer. Nearby suggestions?
Spring Creek isn't too bad and is in George Town. Have to like heights though because the switch back on the way down is just the side of a mountain. The very first obstacle is a large rock that is very off camber and would probably be pretty uncomfortable in a full independent suspension rig. There is a bypass though.
SlaughterHouse Gulch is near Bailey and that one is pretty fun and not very difficult. It's a loop.
Middle Saint Vrain up near Estes is a good one with an optional water crossing at the top as well.
BushMasterBoy
07-03-2021, 14:26
Guy drowned flying a paraglider.
https://www.kktv.com/2021/07/03/cpw-recover-body-paraglider-who-reportedly-crashed-lake-pueblo-saturday/
Fentonite
07-03-2021, 14:41
Spring Creek isn't too bad and is in George Town. Have to like heights though because the switch back on the way down is just the side of a mountain. The very first obstacle is a large rock that is very off camber and would probably be pretty uncomfortable in a full independent suspension rig. There is a bypass though.
SlaughterHouse Gulch is near Bailey and that one is pretty fun and not very difficult. It's a loop.
Middle Saint Vrain up near Estes is a good one with an optional water crossing at the top as well.
Cool - may try Spring Creek, not too far from our mining claim
So you CAN cut a 3/8" piece of aluminum with a table saw, but it's not any fun. This will eventually be vehicle related.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUrbUCTQ8s6jbKRSFlJPLXaTrUZnjtvw0-fDrhtGrU66tnkibyM8v6AWJijUsYsuKIXnvTMYSz88azPGfpcl 6st1T0GmoTR4D2t-DkbhaosT4qs2q6yTQLKOaTOFSdihu7F66aguQYMQIAQrfOH8A3 3Wg=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
The real issue with cutting angle is that the web is significantly thicker than the rest of the material.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVjDFZDNa2yQMdHsFtHZsovh1i4OtnH07U7xNAuF8jIqofcR Wul77iIlOqUCVtNyTKBLBahyzdAkAGNjZGywazwa6dmV78V4gz nFtnsF_O0jzAEtC6uzTJB7t_RCKnr5jLKpUBu0lAyE_kvrdnsZ ZbYig=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
I knew in advance that aluminum was going to go everywhere, but that can not be overstated enough. I threw away clothes when I was done because I didn't want to have all that mess in my washing machine.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLU0KOF_IfpVmcgd-_50xreGjUJ8x1yRosTG8U1rbFHoLnX5Brn8WhG2Ej0Kh0hnXIb y4D62g2uw-0OpJbX5UCXUrmBEzFFfmkWgcKAfY6UEzd5wJkNHpr4LdueR4uy cHivIQF46M0u4x96EJC1Aqh46kQ=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
That's where a disposable Tyvek suit would come in handy.
So you CAN cut a 3/8" piece of aluminum with a table saw, but it's not any fun. This will eventually be vehicle related.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUrbUCTQ8s6jbKRSFlJPLXaTrUZnjtvw0-fDrhtGrU66tnkibyM8v6AWJijUsYsuKIXnvTMYSz88azPGfpcl 6st1T0GmoTR4D2t-DkbhaosT4qs2q6yTQLKOaTOFSdihu7F66aguQYMQIAQrfOH8A3 3Wg=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
The real issue with cutting angle is that the web is significantly thicker than the rest of the material.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVjDFZDNa2yQMdHsFtHZsovh1i4OtnH07U7xNAuF8jIqofcR Wul77iIlOqUCVtNyTKBLBahyzdAkAGNjZGywazwa6dmV78V4gz nFtnsF_O0jzAEtC6uzTJB7t_RCKnr5jLKpUBu0lAyE_kvrdnsZ ZbYig=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
I knew in advance that aluminum was going to go everywhere, but that can not be overstated enough. I threw away clothes when I was done because I didn't want to have all that mess in my washing machine.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLU0KOF_IfpVmcgd-_50xreGjUJ8x1yRosTG8U1rbFHoLnX5Brn8WhG2Ej0Kh0hnXIb y4D62g2uw-0OpJbX5UCXUrmBEzFFfmkWgcKAfY6UEzd5wJkNHpr4LdueR4uy cHivIQF46M0u4x96EJC1Aqh46kQ=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
When I have milled lowers, I do so outside with a shop vac, hose taped to the jig, because that stuff gets EVERYWHERE
That's where a disposable Tyvek suit would come in handy.
I thought I actually had one, but I think I threw it away.
When I have milled lowers, I do so outside with a shop vac, hose taped to the jig, because that stuff gets EVERYWHERE
Yeah after the first few seconds, I made my kid put a hat on because we had it in our hair and long girl hair full of burning hot aluminum chips can't be fun. This is worse than glitter so far. I've vacuumed my garage probably three times and it's still every where I look. Thank goodness for that grill cover I kept. I've been using it all over the place as a grinding shield. Really keeps things down to a dull road, in most cases.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLV7pzhheWp34oSkqamy_sq-7b3IHXNJJxwgW37g0iaP9WzESV0HEFcztuvgQ6-Feyb4jtsNSec2DUGN0zp8JZWWfzbNOU6VmST-8jnH8t1zX9Kz7VYJBStvMU_Lu4FDWqm1C94HpA0E_Dunto34XD cO6g=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
The blade started walking a LOT toward the end of each cut. I think this is just my lack of technique since I have almost zero table saw experience. Fortunately, the real bad cuts are at the ends and I think I'll be cutting about a foot off each side so they hopefully won't even show up.
Guy drowned flying a paraglider.
https://www.kktv.com/2021/07/03/cpw-recover-body-paraglider-who-reportedly-crashed-lake-pueblo-saturday/
Sad. Two friends having fun. Guy that died was foot dragging across the lake and went down. He did not have a floatation device on his motor. His friend went in the water at a separate location doing tip touches. He had a floatation device and walked away. Some advanced stuff but accidents do happen.
Anyone know of a place around the Boulder area that will convert my 4 pin trailer hookup to 7 pin for a reasonable cost? Looking to buy a utility trailer with brakes for an ATV and need to convert mine.
Anyone know of a place around the Boulder area that will convert my 4 pin trailer hookup to 7 pin for a reasonable cost? Looking to buy a utility trailer with brakes for an ATV and need to convert mine.
DIY.
It's not rocket surgery
You will need a trailer brake controller in the tow vehicle.
Great-Kazoo
07-13-2021, 08:47
Anyone know of a place around the Boulder area that will convert my 4 pin trailer hookup to 7 pin for a reasonable cost? Looking to buy a utility trailer with brakes for an ATV and need to convert mine.
DIY. It's as simple as plug n play.
https://www.amazon.com/4-pin-7-trailer-adapter/s?k=4+pin+to+7+pin+trailer+adapter
OR rewire. if you can disassemble your guns for cleaning. This should be easy.
https://autocardesign.org/4-pin-to-7-pin-trailer-adapter-wiring-diagram/
great-kazoo just saved you $100.
Trailer brakes to haul an atv seems like overkill but to each their own.
I?m guessing the tow vehicle is something smaller than a half ton truck?
Seems most half ton and larger trucks have come standard with the larger plugs for years now.
newracer
07-13-2021, 09:09
DIY. It's as simple as plug n play.
https://www.amazon.com/4-pin-7-trailer-adapter/s?k=4+pin+to+7+pin+trailer+adapter
OR rewire. if you can disassemble your guns for cleaning. This should be easy.
https://autocardesign.org/4-pin-to-7-pin-trailer-adapter-wiring-diagram/
great-kazoo just saved you $100.
The adapter will not provide brake control or charging.
Great-Kazoo
07-13-2021, 11:03
The adapter will not provide brake control or charging.
Then he can rewire it, or can he?
Trailer brakes to haul an atv seems like overkill but to each their own.
I?m guessing the tow vehicle is something smaller than a half ton truck?
Seems most half ton and larger trucks have come standard with the larger plugs for years now.
It is a 2015 jeep wrangler. They still only come with a 4 pin. I'm new to pulling trailers and most all of those come with brakes these days, so might as well use. :)
DIY.
It's not rocket surgery
You will need a trailer brake controller in the tow vehicle.
Thanks, I do have one of the Curt bluetooth brake controllers so I can move it between my two tow vehicles. Seems everyone feels it is straight forward to DIY, so I'll look into that option.
It is a 2015 jeep wrangler. They still only come with a 4 pin. I'm new to pulling trailers and most all of those come with brakes these days, so might as well use. :)
Most ATV trailers will not have brakes unless it is a 4+ place trailer.
You will need a brake controller of some sort.
To be honest though, if you're pulling something big enough to need brakes, you need a bigger tow vehicle
Edit: you beat me to the post on the brake controller. Should be fairly easy to wire up.
Most ATV trailers will not have brakes unless it is a 4+ place trailer.
You will need a brake controller of some sort.
To be honest though, if you're pulling something big enough to need brakes, you need a bigger tow vehicle
Edit: you beat me to the post on the brake controller. Should be fairly easy to wire up.
The trailer I'm looking to pull is a PJ 18' tandem axle utility trailer. It comes with brakes. I plan to pull both an ATV and 4 person side by side behind a 2019 suburban.
I'd also like to pull the same trailer with JUST the atv behind my Jeep Wrangler
The trailer I'm looking to pull is a PJ 18' tandem axle utility trailer. It comes with brakes. I plan to pull both an ATV and 4 person side by side behind a 2019 suburban.
I'd also like to pull the same trailer with JUST the atv behind my Jeep Wrangler
You're gonna have to squeeze those on there pretty tight. Sounds like just barely enough trailer, depending on the SXS
7 pin isn't that hard to wire in. You will just need to add the +12v to charge the trailer in your situation. Trailer likely doesn't have reverse lights, and that Curt deal will provide the brake signal.
You're gonna have to squeeze those on there pretty tight. Sounds like just barely enough trailer, depending on the SXS
7 pin isn't that hard to wire in. You will just need to add the +12v to charge the trailer in your situation. Trailer likely doesn't have reverse lights, and that Curt deal will provide the brake signal.
Thanks again for the details! I do appreciate the input. I'm handy, so I think I can DIY it.
The 18' trailer looks like it should be good, but the side load ATV ramps look to be key. The ATVs I had in mind were 46-50 inches wide and the SXS is 12.5 feet long, so 16-17' total unless I'm off?
Thanks again for the details! I do appreciate the input. I'm handy, so I think I can DIY it.
The 18' trailer looks like it should be good, but the side load ATV ramps look to be key. The ATVs I had in mind were 46-50 inches wide and the SXS is 12.5 feet long, so 16-17' total unless I'm off?
A fused 12v from the battery to the hitch should be all you need.
You should be able to get them on there, but you also have to figure in space between and space occupied by your strap method of choice.
Be careful with your weight balance. I have to load my SXS pretty far forward (how it looks anyway) to keep weight on the tongue because there ass heavy.
newracer
07-13-2021, 11:32
Then he can rewire it, or can he?
Yes. There are kits that you plug the 4 pin into then run the other wires.
It is a 2015 jeep wrangler. They still only come with a 4 pin. I'm new to pulling trailers and most all of those come with brakes these days, so might as well use. :)
2 door or 4 door Wrangler?
If 2 door you will be getting close to the limit for towing, if not over, so I'd definitely wire in a brake controller.
This would be easy to wire. Plug in your 4 pin and then run the other wires.
https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Curt/C57672.html?feed=npn&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google%20%7C%20Shop%20-%20Wiring&adgroupid=84618835800&campaignid=1672412098&creative=394587238933&device=c&devicemodel=&feeditemid=&keyword=&loc_interest_ms=&loc_physical_ms=1014517&matchtype=&network=g&placement=&position=&gclid=CjwKCAjw87SHBhBiEiwAukSeUUb1UVc7ymWCWdttFdMO dZyNFKUXuKX7zaYHdozIbvBmnl5QtBkNsBoCrUAQAvD_BwE
Yes. There are kits that you plug the 4 pin into then run the other wires.
2 door or 4 door Wrangler?
If 2 door you will be getting close to the limit for towing, if not over, so I'd definitely wire in a brake controller.
This would be easy to wire. Plug in your 4 pin and then run the other wires.
https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Curt/C57672.html?feed=npn&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google%20%7C%20Shop%20-%20Wiring&adgroupid=84618835800&campaignid=1672412098&creative=394587238933&device=c&devicemodel=&feeditemid=&keyword=&loc_interest_ms=&loc_physical_ms=1014517&matchtype=&network=g&placement=&position=&gclid=CjwKCAjw87SHBhBiEiwAukSeUUb1UVc7ymWCWdttFdMO dZyNFKUXuKX7zaYHdozIbvBmnl5QtBkNsBoCrUAQAvD_BwE
Again, really appreciate the input and points to consider. It is the Unlimited/4-door Rubicon, which does seem to give me a bit more room, but I am concerned about bumping up against the limit. The trailer is listed at 1950lbs and most atvs seem to be in the 800lbs range, and I believe the unlimited Rubicon is rated to 3500, so I'm hopeful I can make it work.
newracer
07-13-2021, 15:29
You are correct that the 4 door is rated to 3500 lbs. I towed a popup camper with mine that was probably a little over 3500 when loaded and didn't have any problems, I did have a brake controller.
Great-Kazoo
07-13-2021, 15:51
Thanks, I do have one of the Curt bluetooth brake controllers so I can move it between my two tow vehicles. Seems everyone feels it is straight forward to DIY, so I'll look into that option.
A few issues with that. IF you move them, you'll have to adjust the sensitivity of the controller. Based on the weight difference of the vehicles, including the wiring harness adapters for each vehicle. So IF you're going to move the controller, you have to remember where you put the wiring harness section you took out. It's like going from a stock stereo, to an aftermarket, one needs the correct harness..
There's aftermarket ones available. I'm too lazy to look atm.
https://www.curtmfg.com/part/51526
A few issues with that. IF you move them, you'll have to adjust the sensitivity of the controller. Based on the weight difference of the vehicles, including the wiring harness adapters for each vehicle. So IF you're going to move the controller, you have to remember where you put the wiring harness section you took out. It's like going from a stock stereo, to an aftermarket, one needs the correct harness..
There's aftermarket ones available. I'm too lazy to look atm.
https://www.curtmfg.com/part/51526
His is a bluetooth controlled deal that has no in-cab controller. It goes between the 7 pin on the vehicle and the trailer harness plug, like a dongle. All controlled with his phone, which I imagine has a way to save vehicle profiles.
It's the future, or something
Great-Kazoo
07-13-2021, 17:50
His is a bluetooth controlled deal that has no in-cab controller. It goes between the 7 pin on the vehicle and the trailer harness plug, like a dongle. All controlled with his phone, which I imagine has a way to save vehicle profiles.
It's the future, or something
The Jetson's are the future. Me, i'm still partying like it's 1999.
Fentonite
07-17-2021, 14:37
I replaced this blown up fuel pump a while back:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/zz339/fentonite/001(11).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/fentonite/a/2bc6139b-3716-4e5d-8f5a-65b2bb40f654/p/7318c142-0377-43e4-b05b-4d6c6a5b1fd9)
The Jeep ran fine for a bit, then didn?t. No gas getting to the carb. Replaced the fuel pump again (cheap and easy), no change. I put the intake hose to the fuel pump into a bottle of gas, sucked it up just fine and ran well. That put the problem somewhere behind the pump. I tried to see if I could suck some gas up through the line to the pump, no resistance, just gas vapor (yum). So,
We pulled the tank today:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/zz339/fentonite/IMG_9685.JPG (https://app.photobucket.com/u/fentonite/p/4eea3b4f-3b46-46bd-a147-373179616138)
The hoses from the tank are rotted through - explains why only pulling air.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/zz339/fentonite/001(13).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/fentonite/a/2bc6139b-3716-4e5d-8f5a-65b2bb40f654/p/4503fbd1-7d2a-41e0-88d3-e0b2a1ebb632)
All parts are ordered, hopefully...
Well, that took longer than expected. Replaced lines and tank, no go. Couldn?t pull anything through fuel line (pump working fine). Apparently something crawled into and plugged the metal fuel line while tank was off. Blew it out (took 100 psi), reassembled. Finally all vehicles are running again. Not sure what I?ll do with myself now.
I know we are not talking about Taco and no one care about payload and tow capacity of a Taco. I am still going to post it up as a reference. thanks for listening/reading about Taco.
:)
Toyota Tacoma Towing Capacity
With a maximum towing strength of 6,800 pounds with the proper trailer hitch, you might be wondering how much can a Toyota Tacoma tow around Lakeland without the available towing hitch receiver. Across all Tacoma trim levels, drivers can utilize a reliable towing capacity of 3,500 pounds. No matter if you?re keeping things light or need the extra support to tackle a huge haul, the Tacoma can tow it all, such as small campers, boats, dirt bikes, and more. Here?s a quick breakdown of the Toyota Tacoma towing capacity per trim level:
Tacoma SR, SR5, TRD Sport, TRD Off-Road towing capacity: 3,500 pounds
Tacoma TRD Sport towing capacity (when properly equipped): 6,800 pounds
Tacoma TRD Off-Road towing capacity (when properly equipped): 6,700 pounds
Tacoma SR and SR5 payload capacity: 1,685 pounds
Tacoma TRD Sport payload capacity: 1,525 pounds
Tacoma TRD Off-Road payload capacity: 1,395 pounds
https://www.wesleychapeltoyota.com/2021-toyota-tacoma-towing/
"Tacoma SR, SR5, TRD Sport, TRD Off-Road towing capacity: 3,500 pounds"
LOL
Tow capacity is less than my payload capacity, and mine's low due to Limited trim and all the fancy doodads.
"Tacoma SR and SR5 payload capacity: 1,685 pounds"
About the weight of my engine/trans/xfr case.
So, my truck has had an annoying exhaust manifold leak for a little while now and I just haven?t felt like dealing with it.
Today I decided that if I just pretend its a diesel it is less annoying.
If it was in the pipe we could weld it up pretty easy. Manifold sounds like it needs a gasket though.
So, my truck has had an annoying exhaust manifold leak for a little while now and I just haven?t felt like dealing with it.
Today I decided that if I just pretend its a diesel it is less annoying.
It's all fun and games until you're at the gas pump.
It's all fun and games until you're at the gas pump.
Truth.
Anyone have to walnut blast intake valves on a gasoline direct injection engine?
How common of a issue is this?
Anyone have to walnut blast intake valves on a gasoline direct injection engine?
How common of a issue is this?
Audi A4 seems to be a maintenance item at 100k or less. But the amount of crud I found on the one I maintain was meh.
My Hyundai engine is gdi too and folks go anywhere from 75k to never.
Considering how costly that can be I would make sure it?s really needed. The A4 folks who did it say there really was no noticeable improvement. YMMV
VolksDragon
07-27-2021, 20:02
So, my truck has had an annoying exhaust manifold leak for a little while now and I just haven?t felt like dealing with it.
Today I decided that if I just pretend its a diesel it is less annoying.
GM 5.3 by chance?
The driver side manifold likes to warp a bit at the front, might not just be the gasket.
GM 5.3 by chance?
The driver side manifold likes to warp a bit at the front, might not just be the gasket.
No. Dodge 5.7. Apparently it was a pretty common thing. The rear cylinders like to snap the bolts. I?m thinking it was mostly an issue with the bolts more than anything. Seems to be common in the 2010 to 2012 range but I haven?t read much about it after that.
Audi A4 seems to be a maintenance item at 100k or less. But the amount of crud I found on the one I maintain was meh.
My Hyundai engine is gdi too and folks go anywhere from 75k to never.
Considering how costly that can be I would make sure it?s really needed. The A4 folks who did it say there really was no noticeable improvement. YMMV
Hyundai has scheduled maintenance to chemically clean the intake system which should also include the valves. Using Top Tier gas also helps keep it clean.
I need to get around to the walnut blast on my F150. Have a slight stumble at cold idle. Should help economy too.
Mine has 180k on it though
Hyundai has scheduled maintenance to chemically clean the intake system which should also include the valves. Using Top Tier gas also helps keep it clean.
Top tier fuel doesn't really help on many gdi engines, as the fuel doesn't hit the top of the valve
Top tier fuel doesn't really help on many gdi engines, as the fuel doesn't hit the top of the valve
The hot rod kids run the PCV to catch cans instead of to the engine. So no oil residue gets on the back of the valves. But then you have the smell and you need to empty the can.
Some of the newest engines have a spare injector on the manifold that is run periodically to help clean the valves. Not sure which ones though.
The hot rod kids run the PCV to catch cans instead of to the engine. So no oil residue gets on the back of the valves. But then you have the smell and you need to empty the can.
Some of the newest engines have a spare injector on the manifold that is run periodically to help clean the valves. Not sure which ones though.
Yeah, I missed out on the year they added the port injector on my model. I do need a catch can too, but the decent ones are out of my cheap ass "willing to pay" range
I should add a water or methanol kit to get the most out of both worlds, but again, I like keeping my money
Apologies if I've asked this before - this is a big thread to dig through.
I have a 2014 Chevy Silverado w/5.3 engine. Are there any shops around the south metro area that would be recommended to do some performance upgrades to that engine?
Nothing drastic, just a little tuning to make it run better - especially throttle response. I want it to do something when I push the pedal a little, instead of acting like a teenager that's been asked to take out the trash.
VolksDragon
07-28-2021, 23:22
Apologies if I've asked this before - this is a big thread to dig through.
I have a 2014 Chevy Silverado w/5.3 engine. Are there any shops around the south metro area that would be recommended to do some performance upgrades to that engine?
Nothing drastic, just a little tuning to make it run better - especially throttle response. I want it to do something when I push the pedal a little, instead of acting like a teenager that's been asked to take out the trash.
I would buy a Pedal Commander for $249 and you'll be surprised how much "feel" you get back in the pedal.
I had one on my Gen 2 Raptor and my 6.2 Silverado, and it made a significant difference in seat of the pants throttle response and removed all the OEM delay.
I would buy a Pedal Commander for $249 and you'll be surprised how much "feel" you get back in the pedal.
I had one on my Gen 2 Raptor and my 6.2 Silverado, and it made a significant difference in seat of the pants throttle response and removed all the OEM delay.
Wow - that sounds like EXACTLY what I need! To fix exactly what bugs me! Where can one find such a wondrous device? Local, or on-line only?
VolksDragon
07-29-2021, 20:25
Wow - that sounds like EXACTLY what I need! To fix exactly what bugs me! Where can one find such a wondrous device? Local, or on-line only?
Amazon, have it in a day. You can also buy it directly from Pedal Commander, but I’ve never seen them for sale locally.
You need the PC65.
Top tier fuel doesn't really help on many gdi engines, as the fuel doesn't hit the top of the valve
I know how GDI engines work, so no kidding. It produces fewer deposits in the first place.
I know how GDI engines work, so no kidding. It produces fewer deposits in the first place.
It's not the fuel causing the deposits though. It's oil blowby and pcv vapors. Good oil helps, but fuel isn't going to make much difference at all unless you're washing down rings running rich.
Catch can is the only real way to remedy the situation.
SideShow Bob
07-30-2021, 09:09
Is there any mechanics on here that have access to GMC Wiring diagrams for an older truck (2006) that would be willing to print off a copy for a few bucks ?
I need to trace out & troubleshoot a wiring issue between the steering wheel and under hood relay panel and would like to know what color wiring and it’s path through all connectors for testing.
Due to having a possible clock spring issue and a twice repaired squirrel wiring damage, I want to diagnose the problem before spending money on a clock spring or ripping into the wiring harnesses after I neatly buttoned everything up after the last squirrel attack.
You still fighting squirrels? I would have murdered every one of 'em at this point.
SideShow Bob
07-30-2021, 15:25
You still fighting squirrels? I would have murdered every one of 'em at this point.
Let’s just say the squirrel population is three less and counting since the second and hopefully last attack on my truck’s wiring.
The new problem developed about a month after repairing & buttoning up the wiring harnesses.
Like I said, it could be a new clock spring problem or a missed or half repaired wiring problem from the last squirrel attack.
Ethylene glycol ?
Too much danger for collateral damage - cats, dogs, etc.
SideShow Bob
07-31-2021, 20:02
No, they suffered and died from lead poisoning.....
Grant H.
08-02-2021, 09:08
Anyone on here do vehicle A/C?
My truck, 2008 Dodge 6.7 Cummins, needs the system checked/recharged. Unsure if it developed a leak or what.
I'd also take suggestions for a good recommendation if no one here does it.
Rock Auto has decided to act like a big boy company and now ships to the Denver metro area again. Just FYI.
Anyone on here do vehicle A/C?
My truck, 2008 Dodge 6.7 Cummins, needs the system checked/recharged. Unsure if it developed a leak or what.
I'd also take suggestions for a good recommendation if no one here does it.
Tagging this for same info, but mine's a 2001 gas Silverado.
whitewalrus
08-12-2021, 11:52
Anyone on here do vehicle A/C?
My truck, 2008 Dodge 6.7 Cummins, needs the system checked/recharged. Unsure if it developed a leak or what.
I'd also take suggestions for a good recommendation if no one here does it.
Have you tried refilling the system? With the age of the vehicle it?s not unreasonable that the coolant is low and doesn?t have a major leak.
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Have you tried refilling the system? With the age of the vehicle it?s not unreasonable that the coolant is low and doesn?t have a major leak.
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And, if you?re going to fill it or top it off I would suggest adding some dye to assist in future leak detection. Really small leaks tend to show up better with dye and a UV light than trying to locate them with a leak detector.
Where do you get the dye?
Where do you get the dye?
Auto part stores
newracer
08-12-2021, 15:52
Walmart even has refill kits that include dye.
Grant H.
08-12-2021, 15:56
Have you tried refilling the system? With the age of the vehicle it?s not unreasonable that the coolant is low and doesn?t have a major leak.
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Thanks for the suggestion. I had tried that in the past, with no dice.
And, if you?re going to fill it or top it off I would suggest adding some dye to assist in future leak detection. Really small leaks tend to show up better with dye and a UV light than trying to locate them with a leak detector.
Had a local shop that could get it in on short notice take a look, and it turns out that the compressor was cooked.
Reclaim coolant, replace compressor, and recharge and it's all good now.
Had a local shop that could get it in on short notice take a look, and it turns out that the compressor was cooked.
Reclaim coolant, replace compressor, and recharge and it's all good now.
What's the ballpark price for that, if you don't mind my asking?
Yeah I'm currently driving around the desert recharging my A/C every 30 hours or so at the moment.
Great-Kazoo
08-12-2021, 18:06
Yeah I'm currently driving around the desert recharging my A/C every 30 hours or so at the moment.
Drive at night, or when it's raining.
But then my snow tires will get cold.
whitewalrus
08-12-2021, 20:29
Yeah I'm currently driving around the desert recharging my A/C every 30 hours or so at the moment.
Not the place to be when it goes out
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Not the place to be when it goes out
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Tell me about it. It was 107 in Topock today.
Great-Kazoo
08-12-2021, 23:10
Tell me about it. It was 107 in Topock today.
[panic] That's Mohave Cty, for you.
So, I've had my Silverado for over 4.5 years and bitched many times about how the sunvisors didn't cover areas where the sun could burn right into my eyeballs. HATED that!
Well, I was yesterday years old when I discovered - the fuckin' visors will SLIDE on their rods, and cover the areas they otherwise can't reach! Checked my wife's 2007 Kia Sorento, those fuckers slide too!
WTF, nobody ever told me this......
Great-Kazoo
08-13-2021, 08:32
So, I've had my Silverado for over 4.5 years and bitched many times about how the sunvisors didn't cover areas where the sun could burn right into my eyeballs. HATED that!
Well, I was yesterday years old when I discovered - the fuckin' visors will SLIDE on their rods, and cover the areas they otherwise can't reach! Checked my wife's 2007 Kia Sorento, those fuckers slide too!
WTF, nobody ever told me this......
Page 38, of the owner's manual.
Page 38, of the owner's manual.
Aka, RTFM.
BushMasterBoy
08-13-2021, 09:42
Read the destruction manual, that's what she used to always say...
Put black tape over the top of your driving glasses.
Put black tape over the top of your driving glasses.
Blindfocals?
Grant H.
08-13-2021, 12:40
What's the ballpark price for that, if you don't mind my asking?
Ended up being just under $700.
They charged more for the compressor than I could buy it for, and having them evacuate and recharge only would have been $170. I just don't have the time, and not that I am a greenie/hippy, but I don't have the appropriate equipment for evacuate/recovery.
Yeah I'm currently driving around the desert recharging my A/C every 30 hours or so at the moment.
Sounds like you have a refrigerant leak.
So, I've had my Silverado for over 4.5 years and bitched many times about how the sunvisors didn't cover areas where the sun could burn right into my eyeballs. HATED that!
Well, I was yesterday years old when I discovered - the fuckin' visors will SLIDE on their rods, and cover the areas they otherwise can't reach! Checked my wife's 2007 Kia Sorento, those fuckers slide too!
WTF, nobody ever told me this......
Always fun finding little "easter eggs" like that... :D
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