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I?m coming around to Hyundai.
Our 2012 Azera has been amazing.
So, I got to find out the hard way that my Isuzu wheels don't fit. The center bore is slightly too small. Obviously I should have researched more before snagging them from the junk yard. The difference isn't great, and I'm curious what it would cost to have the center hole bored out. Anyone know a place that does that I could check? Honestly I'm not even sure there is enough meat in the rim to do this correctly. I may just have to go look for some Chevy or Toyota 17" wheels. Or sell everything and just go back to 16's.
Let me know if you want some almost new 16? gmc rims from ~2004 or so, used in CA. Tires are gone but the PO drove them for one year and stored them till 2007. I picked them up for CO to be my winter tires but decided to just go with 3peak snowflake instead.
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Hopefully you didn't already have the tires mounted and balanced.
I did.
Let me know if you want some almost new 16? gmc rims from ~2004 or so, used in CA. Tires are gone but the PO drove them for one year and stored them till 2007. I picked them up for CO to be my winter tires but decided to just go with 3peak snowflake instead.
Thank you sir, but I'm going to stay the path on 17's. I already found a guy selling Toyota 17's, with the lug nuts, I'm going to try and grab. I'm going to test fit them first.
Looks like the guys at the shop were just being gentle. Everything fits (except the spare).
Before
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3ek4k8WxUfV_Lty2TtXJZVznFG1UMWHw4abnGhZvYY_vLGQ3j0 J-LfPAVRepiw1Rkmoz3Afvluyy2wgyaOSwlPh-aPJDWbSZ5oouFGyEaDYryzjc-O0AMcvzdsRASJnJYAyyI08S6sfGRd0HybbzLs8fA=w979-h625-no?authuser=0
After
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dqRz93xIn_FSZqTuU2WeUQ17T1YS2CwEZ6tHbPPcCR5bp4eV-xzjNDVGT8x9XJoQEll8aRxMpHMQULwl3C6qHxVy3xBfC09Nmkq fpHTDhwU2cZWvSR18ovtMNRrvvChZbmi1y9T_PNC67aXO43fED cbg=w1024-h625-no?authuser=0
These are 17" wheels with 285/70/17 tires. The lift is maybe 1.5"-2" and OME 929 springs in back. The factory bump stops rusted off the back. We lifted it with a fork lift and the back definitely rubs the bumper and fender liner on full flex, but I think bump stops will help that. At some point in the future, I'm building my own bumpers anyway. I'm taking it for it's first wheeling this weekend and will see how bad it is. I don't think I'll be installing the 1" body lift I got.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fyFYEWsvxhUtBJc2bHpeh_EV1BAR1qX76fj_cqczPYES8XH3u B010HgOzrBnbBAcIyEktra-MI6TjyhoXI-kjOxYGL3D9Xa5fZCVTSLMl2eKRwOilVATXPj_O-fj4E1N7wMNljpYmJDU0vPKsoc_k3Jg=w1107-h625-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dAUN971dFgQr2fgdKSCdXqTw8LG-7Hjn991mawJnF_m2AYTqd3XMZIDNVaUDp1xhnxpBdyVG8bCZcB 9pNlK2JOKuykQmzLF6A15l4oT_b5OOldsycgUzcnloD2SeTMWe EBM_HN1T963L1yuHaMC9FWlA=w843-h576-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c_guZzgqmRvHspdLay4pmfOjdxQ3bVyGJHbmPplU5bE10LX9D sHbYEjHe5kSdQeDPb9t2l4vo17bqnym87P4iGdtMn3CKlrp2vn Yj2o3HNvvfDyDshRwLKr_e8RdN19B_4CX3L3GV0POSn0L8WBo3 81w=w945-h625-no?authuser=0
hurley842002
07-07-2020, 15:36
Looks like the guys at the shop were just being gentle. Everything fits (except the spare).
Before
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3ek4k8WxUfV_Lty2TtXJZVznFG1UMWHw4abnGhZvYY_vLGQ3j0 J-LfPAVRepiw1Rkmoz3Afvluyy2wgyaOSwlPh-aPJDWbSZ5oouFGyEaDYryzjc-O0AMcvzdsRASJnJYAyyI08S6sfGRd0HybbzLs8fA=w979-h625-no?authuser=0
After
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dqRz93xIn_FSZqTuU2WeUQ17T1YS2CwEZ6tHbPPcCR5bp4eV-xzjNDVGT8x9XJoQEll8aRxMpHMQULwl3C6qHxVy3xBfC09Nmkq fpHTDhwU2cZWvSR18ovtMNRrvvChZbmi1y9T_PNC67aXO43fED cbg=w1024-h625-no?authuser=0
These are 17" wheels with 285/70/17 tires. The lift is maybe 1.5"-2" and OME 929 springs in back. The factory bump stops rusted off the back. We lifted it with a fork lift and the back definitely rubs the bumper and fender liner on full flex, but I think bump stops will help that. At some point in the future, I'm building my own bumpers anyway. I'm taking it for it's first wheeling this weekend and will see how bad it is. I don't think I'll be installing the 1" body lift I got.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fyFYEWsvxhUtBJc2bHpeh_EV1BAR1qX76fj_cqczPYES8XH3u B010HgOzrBnbBAcIyEktra-MI6TjyhoXI-kjOxYGL3D9Xa5fZCVTSLMl2eKRwOilVATXPj_O-fj4E1N7wMNljpYmJDU0vPKsoc_k3Jg=w1107-h625-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dAUN971dFgQr2fgdKSCdXqTw8LG-7Hjn991mawJnF_m2AYTqd3XMZIDNVaUDp1xhnxpBdyVG8bCZcB 9pNlK2JOKuykQmzLF6A15l4oT_b5OOldsycgUzcnloD2SeTMWe EBM_HN1T963L1yuHaMC9FWlA=w843-h576-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c_guZzgqmRvHspdLay4pmfOjdxQ3bVyGJHbmPplU5bE10LX9D sHbYEjHe5kSdQeDPb9t2l4vo17bqnym87P4iGdtMn3CKlrp2vn Yj2o3HNvvfDyDshRwLKr_e8RdN19B_4CX3L3GV0POSn0L8WBo3 81w=w945-h625-no?authuser=0Very nice, I dig it!
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Anyone good with OLD trucks that knows what this is?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Rau15Jb8PEKxoShV6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DSYx4dk2WkrGrLc8A
Those style fenders were pretty common in the 1930's, but those wheels seem older.
Here is the lip that needs machined down. Anyone know of any machine shops I could call to see if they'd do it for me?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fUZlO549ki0yC-zJnsKSJgzKdbFc1tZjVJju_m3u2AxmGxnVgfhM4gIJ7ZyriayR zwGKMIoxu6g7J6ZPdeaW8LCsZJIE7WKWmOPlVXbYaKu1ulquRv eFXNNoT6RH1g-en92fQX49cyOCUt8eUFqingsQ=w1112-h625-no?authuser=0
Anyone good with OLD trucks that knows what this is?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Rau15Jb8PEKxoShV6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DSYx4dk2WkrGrLc8A
Ohhh, looks like this 1933 Ford. Door accents look the same.
https://www.ebay.com/i/392483718704?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=392483718704&targetid=915708758100&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9028792&poi=&campaignid=10454925545&mkgroupid=109413764331&rlsatarget=pla-915708758100&abcId=2145999&merchantid=6296724&gclid=Cj0KCQjwupD4BRD4ARIsABJMmZ-ot9WQ95kHFz72gml0qOyXo11L6pUSBTY58HNlItEqNPB8JTmCs 10aAu75EALw_wcB
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/~oUAAOSwmcldpzWx/s-l1600.jpg
Ohhh, looks like this 1933 Ford. Door accents look the same.
https://www.ebay.com/i/392483718704?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=392483718704&targetid=915708758100&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9028792&poi=&campaignid=10454925545&mkgroupid=109413764331&rlsatarget=pla-915708758100&abcId=2145999&merchantid=6296724&gclid=Cj0KCQjwupD4BRD4ARIsABJMmZ-ot9WQ95kHFz72gml0qOyXo11L6pUSBTY58HNlItEqNPB8JTmCs 10aAu75EALw_wcB
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/~oUAAOSwmcldpzWx/s-l1600.jpg
What's throwing me off there is the inline 6...
Looks like it's just sitting in there. Maybe someone just tossed one in there before pulling that thing out into the field.
I think the one out at my place has a V8.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fdPIjM9FrDqNVZmpBpl15TlkLYIt0J-P53kJxJeLoLARXO2h1Pn2DD3eM_pu9gVDXdktVvuclEpUXzngo je1f5_fSR1l3op476B2oUV8_UDI6BfOhlS0-XYhC06duyML1CKpFuEMXvjfTgrrCvfpXSkw=w1112-h625-no?authuser=0
Looks like it's just sitting in there. Maybe someone just tossed one in there before pulling that thing out into the field.
I think the one out at my place has a V8.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fdPIjM9FrDqNVZmpBpl15TlkLYIt0J-P53kJxJeLoLARXO2h1Pn2DD3eM_pu9gVDXdktVvuclEpUXzngo je1f5_fSR1l3op476B2oUV8_UDI6BfOhlS0-XYhC06duyML1CKpFuEMXvjfTgrrCvfpXSkw=w1112-h625-no?authuser=0
Could be.
I think it actually broke there. It is next to an abandoned lodge in the forest near Albany, WY. For being accessible to the public for that long, it is rather good shape.
One of my buddy wanted to buy a Porsche 911 GT3. I told him that Any 911 requires him to take bumper and rear light out to even change a simple AIR FILTER! He thought Porsche includes maintenance. Nope! Just their 1st checkup is.
I did a 911 turbo oil change before, and it was NOT fun at all.
If someone like free maintenance, buy Hyundai 3/36, BMW 3/36, Toyota 2/24.
He will be joining rennlistDOTcom fairly soon. [LOL]
https://www.marketwatch.com/story/buying-a-car-consider-these-that-offer-free-maintenance-2020-04-02#:~:text=Complimentary%20maintenance%20programs, includes%20one%20complimentary%20maintenance%20vis it.
https://youtu.be/2lQQTZuJ7B8
https://youtu.be/P__svlZ2lxA
Aloha_Shooter
07-08-2020, 06:28
You don't have to remove the bumper and rear light to replace air filters on the 997. You do have to unplug one of the sensors and pull 8 T-25 screws to get the cover off and then 2 more T-20 screws (1 for each filter) to pull the filters off. Reverse the process after swapping filters. Then there's the pollen filter for the cabin air ...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jIfdAWMp18s
I should have used the word ALL until I had a chance to work on most of 911s.
newracer
07-08-2020, 09:58
Looks like the guys at the shop were just being gentle. Everything fits (except the spare).
Before
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3ek4k8WxUfV_Lty2TtXJZVznFG1UMWHw4abnGhZvYY_vLGQ3j0 J-LfPAVRepiw1Rkmoz3Afvluyy2wgyaOSwlPh-aPJDWbSZ5oouFGyEaDYryzjc-O0AMcvzdsRASJnJYAyyI08S6sfGRd0HybbzLs8fA=w979-h625-no?authuser=0
After
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dqRz93xIn_FSZqTuU2WeUQ17T1YS2CwEZ6tHbPPcCR5bp4eV-xzjNDVGT8x9XJoQEll8aRxMpHMQULwl3C6qHxVy3xBfC09Nmkq fpHTDhwU2cZWvSR18ovtMNRrvvChZbmi1y9T_PNC67aXO43fED cbg=w1024-h625-no?authuser=0
These are 17" wheels with 285/70/17 tires. The lift is maybe 1.5"-2" and OME 929 springs in back. The factory bump stops rusted off the back. We lifted it with a fork lift and the back definitely rubs the bumper and fender liner on full flex, but I think bump stops will help that. At some point in the future, I'm building my own bumpers anyway. I'm taking it for it's first wheeling this weekend and will see how bad it is. I don't think I'll be installing the 1" body lift I got.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fyFYEWsvxhUtBJc2bHpeh_EV1BAR1qX76fj_cqczPYES8XH3u B010HgOzrBnbBAcIyEktra-MI6TjyhoXI-kjOxYGL3D9Xa5fZCVTSLMl2eKRwOilVATXPj_O-fj4E1N7wMNljpYmJDU0vPKsoc_k3Jg=w1107-h625-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dAUN971dFgQr2fgdKSCdXqTw8LG-7Hjn991mawJnF_m2AYTqd3XMZIDNVaUDp1xhnxpBdyVG8bCZcB 9pNlK2JOKuykQmzLF6A15l4oT_b5OOldsycgUzcnloD2SeTMWe EBM_HN1T963L1yuHaMC9FWlA=w843-h576-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c_guZzgqmRvHspdLay4pmfOjdxQ3bVyGJHbmPplU5bE10LX9D sHbYEjHe5kSdQeDPb9t2l4vo17bqnym87P4iGdtMn3CKlrp2vn Yj2o3HNvvfDyDshRwLKr_e8RdN19B_4CX3L3GV0POSn0L8WBo3 81w=w945-h625-no?authuser=0
Very nice!
Anyone good with OLD trucks that knows what this is?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Rau15Jb8PEKxoShV6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DSYx4dk2WkrGrLc8A
Looks like what's left of a Ford Model A pickup. The flathead straight 6 was probably dropped in sometime around the 1940-50's.
Got my front end parts in. Got most of the rental tools. Still need a seal installer and pitman arm puller. Maybe a non destructive joint separator since I am not keen on pickle forks.
Wanted to work this starting on Friday but kid made plans so Saturday it is.
Now To figure out is I want to do an all-data or the GM specific FSM 3day subscription.
A arms, steering and front diff seals.
4-8 hours per side should do it.
Open to pointers.
Sounds like you're in for some fun.
newracer
07-08-2020, 23:07
Got my front end parts in. Got most of the rental tools. Still need a seal installer and pitman arm puller. Maybe a non destructive joint separator since I am not keen on pickle forks.
Wanted to work this starting on Friday but kid made plans so Saturday it is.
Now To figure out is I want to do an all-data or the GM specific FSM 3day subscription.
A arms, steering and front diff seals.
4-8 hours per side should do it.
Open to pointers.
Spray everything with PB Blaster now and everyday until you do the work.
One way to remove joints is to take off the nut then hold a BFH on one side and then hit the other side with another BFH.
Spray everything with PB Blaster now and everyday until you do the work.
One way to remove joints is to take off the nut then hold a BFH on one side and then hit the other side with another BFH.
BFH on both sides of a tie rod mount, smacked at the same time, does wonders. Havent used one of my pickle forks in years.
If you use a puller, set some tension first, then apply heat and BFH as you increase tension.
Thanks folks. Not keen on whacking the steering but every video I saw had folks using a mini sledge to loosen things up.
Going to start today and enjoy the sweltering heat.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Only read few sentences, but planning to read all during lunch hour.
Hyundai Is Making a Real Manual Transmission That Doesn't Use a Clutch Pedal
Left legs rejoice.
BY PETER HOLDERITH
JULY 8, 2020
https://www.thedrive.com/news/34683/hyundai-is-making-a-real-manual-transmission-that-doesnt-use-a-clutch-pedal
Only read few sentences, but planning to read all during lunch hour.
Hyundai Is Making a Real Manual Transmission That Doesn't Use a Clutch Pedal
Left legs rejoice.
BY PETER HOLDERITH
JULY 8, 2020
https://www.thedrive.com/news/34683/hyundai-is-making-a-real-manual-transmission-that-doesnt-use-a-clutch-pedal
I always wanted a manual that had no clutch. Just a button on the shifter. With today?s sensors and processing power the button is probably not required. Location and pressure or acceleration sensors can tell where and how fast you are shifting.
Bonus points if they make it sequential like the race cars.
newracer
07-09-2020, 12:03
My buggy basically has a manual without a clutch. Its a Turbo 400 with a reverse pattern manual valve body. The pattern is P-R-N-1-2-3. I can start in any gear and it will stay in that gear until manually shifted. The reverse pattern allows for quick shifts from 1 to R to keep from flipping over backwards on steep climbs.
I always wanted a manual that had no clutch. Just a button on the shifter. With today?s sensors and processing power the button is probably not required. Location and pressure or acceleration sensors can tell where and how fast you are shifting.
Bonus points if they make it sequential like the race cars.
Bonus points if the trans skip shifts when needed.
I always wanted a manual that had no clutch. Just a button on the shifter. With today?s sensors and processing power the button is probably not required. Location and pressure or acceleration sensors can tell where and how fast you are shifting.
Bonus points if they make it sequential like the race cars.
I would love to have a true sequential manual gearbox.
Without having a manually operated clutch will make it automatic trans w/ dual clutch shifter. Close, but it will not be a sequential manual gear box.
Those AUTO with sequential shifter that mimics sequential manual doesn't have a manually operated clutch.
Only time they use clutch is when they are about to start/stop , but not when they up/down shift.
Left side of truck is apart. Upper joint and steering knuckle 3 taps and out. Lower took torches pickle forks wailing and cussing. Bottom a arm is out. Top a arm has one bolt rusted to the screw and not budging. I ground off the head and got the adjuster off. Can?t fit the c press in so plan B tomorrow. Either it will bust loose and pull out with the nut. Or I buy cut off wheels and do more cutting.
Almost ordered an upper a arm bolt but then thought nahhhhh won?t need it. Sigh.
Just wait until you do the most difficult thing on a vehicle you've ever done, then have to do it again, but in a junkyard with hand tools and no jacks.
Sounds like it's going about as well as it should for a home mechanic.
Today I tightened my wheel bearing retainers for at least the fourth time. Hopefully I did a better job this time.
I would love to have a true sequential manual gearbox.
Without having a manually operated clutch will make it automatic trans w/ dual clutch shifter. Close, but it will not be a sequential manual gear box.
Those AUTO with sequential shifter that mimics sequential manual doesn't have a manually operated clutch.
Only time they use clutch is when they are about to start/stop , but not when they up/down shift.
The old Porsche Sportomatic from the 1960s is new again? [Coffee]
Just wait until you do the most difficult thing on a vehicle you've ever done, then have to do it again, but in a junkyard with hand tools and no jacks.
Sounds like it's going about as well as it should for a home mechanic.
Today I tightened my wheel bearing retainers for at least the fourth time. Hopefully I did a better job this time.
It?s not that hard just frustrating. I figure a pro would have the right tools for this.
On wheel bearing retainers: torque the nut till snug and then give it a half turn or so. Rotate the hub. Back of 1/4 turn so it?s almost loose or the nut feels like it let go. Done. Unless you pressed in the bearing and didn?t quite seat them right then it might loosen up and need retorquing.
Mine has torque specs and you have to line up a retaining ring to allow the fasteners. On one side I went to something like 9ft/lbs and the other side only 6ft/lbs (otherwise it would have been something like 15ft/lbs). The spec is 4.5-5.5 ft/lbs. After using a fish scale, and a (borrowed) $500 torque wrench. I just went tight, but not so tight that I couldn't spin the hub.
Yeah after I almost stripped an oil pan plug I broke down and got a 3:8 digital torque wrench. Goes down to 5ftlb. You are welcome to use it if you end up having to do it again.
But tight and almost loose works.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks, my neighbor has me covered for now. I think my issue was that I used the torque wrench with a spanner wrench and set the torque with the spanner. In the manual, it specifies that the tension of the rotation of the hub should be the torque setting. I don't know that those are different, but I'm betting that they are.
In the manual, it says if you don't have a torque wrench, to use a fish scale to measure the torque it takes to turn the hub. Basically you attach the scale hook to a lug stud and measure how many lbs it takes before the hub turns. I have a feeling that measuring the torque of the hub friction, and the torque of the hub retainer are different. As long as the wheel doesn't have any play, that makes me happy.
I would like a better torque wrench though. I definitely torqued my front third member cover bolts to something like 55ft/lbs with my HF torque wrench. I later looked in the manual and saw the spec is only for 13ft/lbs. Now I'm afraid to touch it again.
I did just changed both diff fluids in prep for our outing on Sat. The front because it's been about 1,000 miles since I installed the locker, and the rear because it's probably never been serviced. I went and tested the 4WD in some deep pea gravel tonight and I can tell that both the locker up front, and LSD in the rear are working as they should.
Went through and finished up most other maintenance issues (that I'm aware of) as well. Can't wait to get out on the trail.
Next I need to build sliders and would like to pick up a portaband and plasma cutter. I have the material for the sliders, but as soon as I'm done with them, I want to start on front and rear bumpers.
We are planning a Spring Creek trip soon and I'd really like to try the gate keeper obstacle that I by-passed 15 years ago when I had my last off road truck.
buffalobo
07-10-2020, 17:49
Here is the lip that needs machined down. Anyone know of any machine shops I could call to see if they'd do it for me?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fUZlO549ki0yC-zJnsKSJgzKdbFc1tZjVJju_m3u2AxmGxnVgfhM4gIJ7ZyriayR zwGKMIoxu6g7J6ZPdeaW8LCsZJIE7WKWmOPlVXbYaKu1ulquRv eFXNNoT6RH1g-en92fQX49cyOCUt8eUFqingsQ=w1112-h625-no?authuser=0Spec Wheels if they are still around. They repair/restore aluminum wheels for folks, dealerships, auto body shops etc. Donald and Adrian, good people.
Well lessons learned so far. Buy complete a arms don?t mess with pressing. Rubber bushes may look bad but that?s on the outside only. Buy the new grinder if you need cut off disks, because you aren?t going to find the adapter to your old grinder.
Grinder, air chisel, impact wrench are required tools for a Chevy truck. When in doubt cut it. Moog customer service sucks. Right upper a arm PN but wrong bushings pressed in..... ?we will contact you on Monday?. WTF?!??!?
I want a hydraulic press but have no room for it.
Both upper a arm aft bolts were rusted shut. Had to cut of the head to remove adjuster then I could rotate the bush and use a cut off wheel to cut at the right spot of the bushing and remove. Wrong a arms with the right part number from Moog. Those things took an extra 6 hours, a whole day. So I am behind by that much. Plus bushing pressing took way more than anticipated.
Time for dinner with some friends. Then tomorrow cv shaft seals and assembly.
SideShow Bob
07-12-2020, 08:28
If you are still needing to remove the ring in the wheel centers, try using a pipe reamer of the appropriate size. I no longer have access to a pipe threader/reamer setup, but if you can find someone with a set, it should cut through the alloy of the wheels like butter.
I think I have a pipe reamer, but, I'd rather see if I can find a machinist to make sure it's square and even and all that jazz.
SideShow Bob
07-12-2020, 09:33
I think I have a pipe reamer, but, I'd rather see if I can find a machinist to make sure it's square and even and all that jazz.
But is it worth the expense ? Or could you live with it being a little rough or slightly off center ? As long as the locking hub fits, the hole is not critical to function.
I guess I don't know enough to know what's right here. I don't want a wheel that's difficult to balance, or improperly use a tool that's going to get me cracks. They are junkyard wheels, so almost no cost will be worth it to most people. I don't know how much it would cost, but $50 wouldn't be out of the question.
buffalobo
07-12-2020, 12:59
You could always check for a hole saw in correct size and jig up something for drill press to hold wheel.
Guys use a router to open up center bores, but machinists sure cringe about it. Feeds and speeds and such.
buffalobo
07-12-2020, 13:42
Guys use a router to open up center bores, but machinists sure cringe about it. Feeds and speeds and such.
From your pic looks like could use flush trim bit with bearing, run router from inside wheel, slow and lite cuts, neatness shouldn't matter till last pass. Bearing keep from gouging too deep, keep bit square to surface.
That's what I'm thinking.
buffalobo
07-12-2020, 14:29
I'd do either in a heartbeat. Just the fronts for manual hubs?
If the wheels are not hub-centric and locate on the studs only, you don't need to be that concerned about being super accurate.
The old Porsche Sportomatic from the 1960s is new again? [Coffee]
YES, but with much faster shifting speed and much better gear ratios. :)
I'd do either in a heartbeat. Just the fronts for manual hubs?
It's just the one wheel, and it is to make it fit over the front hubs. There were two different styles of center hub wheels, one regular, and one flush fitting. The flush center caps came on rims with that little interior ring. Of the five rims I found, only one has that ring. I was going to use it as my spare, but the ring prevents it from seating properly on the spare carrier, so right now it's riding on the rear wheel. I need to source some router parts I guess. Wheels are lug centric.
I vote for you to leave the wheel alone and have the front hub turned down instead. That would be awesome.
I vote for you to leave the wheel alone and have the front hub turned down instead. That would be awesome.
Man has a point
As long as your wheel is not hub centric cut away. It may be cheaper to find a wheel than to set up for routing it though. (Of course you end up with a tool so there is that).
On hub centric wheels even a small off center amount will drive you nuts. Still trying to sort out the kids summer wheels but it an in between size and having trouble with the right rings.
I might just keep my eyes open for another wheel at the junk yard. At $30 a pop, they aren't expensive, but they aren't abundant either.
My suburban is not done. I screwed up the front diff thrust washers. Now I need to find them local or overnight $5 worth of parts. Frack. I swear I watched several vids and I did not see anything about removing the clip from the inside.
If anyone has a differential shop that has 8.25? ifs GM diff parts in stock please PM me.
I got maybe 2 hrs left after I uncluster the diff. Oh well.
BushMasterBoy
07-12-2020, 21:44
I would not modify the hubs for safety reasons.
My suburban is not done. I screwed up the front diff thrust washers. Now I need to find them local or overnight $5 worth of parts. Frack. I swear I watched several vids and I did not see anything about removing the clip from the inside.
If anyone has a differential shop that has 8.25? ifs GM diff parts in stock please PM me.
I got maybe 2 hrs left after I uncluster the diff. Oh well.
Do you have a picture of what you did?
I would not modify the hubs for safety reasons.
Me either. Ray is just kidding around. But his suggestion isn't far off from, "Just do a solid axle swap with one-tons and switch to an 8-lug pattern," which may possibly be in the future, but not near enough for me to do that now. Heck, I've only taken it off road once since I built it to where it's at. It performed as expected by the way. I need those low gears asap though. It's so hard to drive slow with a manual that I just bashed it over rocks all day. Bent the driver side lower control arm.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eSEZMCLv2MefFTRLhvFOTGw7FqkwhqMX-IyHhE-C6X0Bs8bB8DzKxb7hqAyyZFeCXvvJcBdvAKbHNJNuDI8KvLOmS FWycIU9FXmPKZcg6ajgpFZtIdgt0VnJOUlvAM_A9ZKg1gYt6Ez M4UqmRP9t1DpQ=w1112-h625-no?authuser=0
buffalobo
07-12-2020, 22:36
After little more thought, the hole saw method IMO would be easiest and cheapest depending on availability of "correct/close enough" size saw. Do auto parts stores loan them? I will loan you one if I have size that will work.
Looking at thickness of lip you need remove, you need at least 1-1 1/4 hp router with 1" length of cut bit(your thickness looks approx 3/4", I would use my 3 hp production router and bad azz custom bit).
Even if not enough throat to jig up bare wheel in drill press I would carefully and patiently drill by hand. If you plan to use as spare and wheels index to studs you should be golden. I don't think balancing will be issue unless you wreck the wheel.
buffalobo
07-12-2020, 22:41
Or go see Donald at Spec Wheels. This would be right up their alley.
PM me if plan that route, they are personal friends of Mrs bo and I.
I guess since it fits on the back axle, and I have the other wheel riding on spare, it will work for now. I'll probably keep an eye on the junk yard for another Isuzu Axiom to come in and see if I can get another wheel. I think I'm going to have to table truck projects for a bit and work on my wife's rental house. Crappy timing, but priorities.
Or go see Donald at Spec Wheels. This would be right up their alley.
PM me if plan that route, they are personal friends of Mrs bo and I.
I may just call them to get an idea on price. If it isn't astronomical, I may go that way just to do it. Thanks again for the recommendation.
Stu, no pictures. There are two thrust washers keeping the right shaft in. One has two ears the other just plain. I cupped them both running the slide hammer. Remove the clip on the inside.
Stupid mistake due to being exhausted. Brain said go faster instead of maybe think about it.
I did that with my inside axle. I pressed it off and bent a couple clips in the process.
Woot Woot. A local dealer had the parts in stock. $16 and a drive and I was back to putting things together. Let?s hope I did not screw up the diff.
Need to lube all the joints, tighten the torsion bars and put on some wheels. Then I need to figure out if my alignment is close enough and done. My alignment shop doesn?t have an opening till Friday so there is that.
Also got to return all the loaner tools and extras.
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I think I posted pictures, but you can clamp some straight metal to each brake disc, and measure between front and back until they are the same, or maybe 1/4" more narrow in the front, and that'll get you close enough to cruise around until you can get to the alignment shop. I used squares since I had two and they were the same size and I could mount them in the same position. Don't forget to tighten down all the adjustment nuts when you're done or they will wander on you as you drive around.
Thanks for the tip.
You say disk brakes so I assume car on jacks suspension bottomed out is ok?
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I think ideally you're supposed to have it at ride height, but again, we're talking about getting it close enough to get it drive able. I've seen people that do the same thing with the tires on and under weight, but I wasn't going to trust that I could get accurate measurements using some spot on the tread on each side. Also, probably make accessing the adjusting nuts more difficult with the tire in the way and the vehicle lower to the ground.
Here is a video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rBOaywhJiRQ
Here is an even more in-depth video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0zFzDwdbDts
Thanks Stu. I got the tie rods close to old length by eyeballing. Will jack up the wheels close to ride height and check the alignment then torque torsion bars. Just got to get it from my house to Steve?s so should be fine.
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Jacked the front end close to ride height and measured as far up on rotors as I could. It was a hair toe out, and three turns got it just a bit toe in. Drove it to the alignment place and man the car sounds better. Precise steering and the tires do not sound as loud anymore.
Bad news might be the front diff is on the way out. Found a few tiny metal parts but combined with leaking seals it usually means the carrier bearings are shot. Allegedly it takes only 4 hours to rebuild the diff but it may need gears , and sometimes the housing replaced. Will keep an eye on it. Need to decide if the $850 that a replacement is worth it.
The new Broncos are looking better and better....,
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If you were changing gears, $850 would seem reasonable, but it's got to feel painful for just maintenance.
If you were changing gears, $850 would seem reasonable, but it's got to feel painful for just maintenance.
Part of me is thinking I coordinate this service with a 4? lift and larger tire swap. Diffs are available in 4.1 so it would be an ideal time. Then either get a rebuilt rear axle for ~1300 or pay a local place to do it if cheaper.
Not sure suburbans are that trail worthy though as the folks on over lander say they have issues and don?t last.
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Well, they're heavy, so you put 40's on one and you need one tons. Since you aren't doing huge tires, probably no need to upgrade.
Check out the Stubburban on Wreckless Wrench Garage YouTube channel.
Here's a potential project 4x4. Samy
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1957247421073295/
Except the seller is an idiot for listing it as text or call only and FB blocks the number...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fs_u8shDLvS4O85xEzgUzZqBWi8qCfB4vIfhakUb1SNFGfTLu U5wMgVi81PP2s-Lefya0cBt1Sx8xc86LBq7rwcmtiPMxwPmC_fuECS6xKSHfC84b DA68ctKIWKEoi8i5JQKreaO3hLuEys2qF4IZSUw=w997-h625-no?authuser=0
hurley842002
07-31-2020, 05:29
Looks sweet Irv!
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Saw a Mustang Mach-E test car with Michigan plates on C-470 when I was driving home from the dentist.
It's as ugly in person as the original images. Apparently running the AC draws more power than they were willing to consume.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200821/46451f3ab8bc61d37213960b18f90106.jpg
tactical_2012
08-27-2020, 19:10
Wife 2015 Chevy Traverse AC stopped blowing cold air out the other day. Took it to dealer as the AC is covered under warranty. Dealer said AC only had .2 lbs of freon and the system holds 1.7lbs of freon. They told me there are no leaks and nothing is wrong with the system so it not covered under warranty. They now want to charge me $290 for diagnostic and recharging the system. Question is if the AC is a sealed unit and nothing is wrong with it why was my freon 80% depleted
Wife 2015 Chevy Traverse AC stopped blowing cold air out the other day. Took it to dealer as the AC is covered under warranty. Dealer said AC only had .2 lbs of freon and the system holds 1.7lbs of freon. They told me there are no leaks and nothing is wrong with the system so it not covered under warranty. They now want to charge me $290 for diagnostic and recharging the system. Question is if the AC is a sealed unit and nothing is wrong with it why was my freon 80% depleted
Only answer there is that a leak exists. Somewhere.
Unless someone let it out for you.
tactical_2012
08-27-2020, 19:41
I feel the dealership, Larry H Miller Nissan, is trying to pull a fast one on my as they dont want to deal with the warranty and just want to make some quick cash.
I feel the dealership, Larry H Miller Nissan, is trying to pull a fast one on my as they dont want to deal with the warranty and just want to make some quick cash.
To tell for sure, you can recharge it with leak detecting dye, or pull a vacuum on it and make sure your vacuum doesn't deplete overnight. It may be slow enough that a recharge would last a while, but with the car only being 5 years old, its probably worse.
Only answer there is that a leak exists. Somewhere.
Yep. Pretty much if it's low it had to leak out somewhere.
tactical_2012
08-27-2020, 19:50
Ya they said they put dye in it and also used a "freon sniffer" device and cant find any leaks
If you weren't so far away we could throw my leak detector on it. Bet a dollar I could find the leak.
BushMasterBoy
08-27-2020, 19:58
The good freon sniffers have an element that has to be replaced occasionally. I use the sniffer to get to the general area of the leak. Then I spray 409 on the area and look for bubbles. Dealers are notorious for over charging for the work they do. Sure a road hazard didn't nick the condenser coil?
Do the Schrader valves make a hiss when the service caps come off? Most leaks are where there is a connection.
tactical_2012
08-27-2020, 20:01
Well I'm going in the morning to pick it up and will update with what they say.
GilpinGuy
08-27-2020, 22:47
We go to Larry H. Miller Nissan on 104th and like them. They haven't yet tried to "upsell" me on anything yet. I know there are a few LHM Nissan's around though.
Tesla
Faraday
Nikola.
What's next?
Michael, Ampere, Ohmmy, Maxwell, Gauss, henrich Hertz, Henry, coloumb?
Many potential EV Manufacturer names....
Tesla
Faraday
Nikola.
What's next?
Michael, Ampere, Ohmmy, Maxwell, Gauss, henrich Hertz, Henry, coloumb?
Many potential EV Manufacturer names....Shocking isn't it. [emoji39]
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Great-Kazoo
09-08-2020, 11:10
Well I'm going in the morning to pick it up and will update with what they say.
The first thing you should say is, I'd like to speak to the service manager. If it's a warranty covered item, it's a warranty covered expense.
I had a dealership down here ignore an issue. Decided that day it wasn't worth me debating over. Waited a few days to cool off.
Took it back and asked. IF this was your vehicle. Would you accept what i was told? Oh yeah, ok, we'll fix it.
Nikola and GM team up to make this 900-horsepower super electric truck (https://finance.yahoo.com/news/nikola-and-gm-team-up-to-make-this-900-horsepower-super-electric-truck-113011979.html)
Nikola (NKLA) and GM (GM) are teaming up to take on Tesla’s cybertruck.
The electric truck startup announced Tuesday it has selected GM to be its manufacturing parter for its electric pickup truck dubbed the Badger. The Badger will use GM’s widely acclaimed Ultium battery technology. Additionally, Nikola will hand over $2 billion in stock to GM — giving the automaker an 11% stake in the company.
Shares of Nikola and GM rose 40% and 8%, respectively on the tie-up.
“General Motors was the perfect fit,” Nikola founder executive chairman and CEO Trevor Milton told Yahoo Finance’s The First Trade.
Autoweek: GM’s Going to Build the Nikola Badger Electric Pickup Truck (https://www.autoweek.com/news/green-cars/a33955937/gms-going-to-build-the-nikola-badger-electric-pickup-truck/)
https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod.s3.amazonaws.com/images/nikola-badger2-28963695a2fae6f2920734d1af0bdf3f1917c5d6e1826ad26d 2bfe2cd6686ec9-1599581429.jpg
Electric and fuel cell pickup truck maker Nikola (https://www.autoweek.com/news/green-cars/a30871556/sure-why-not-the-nikola-badger-will-be-battery-and-hydrogen-powered/)just got a $2 billion shot in the swing arm from a new strategic partnership with General Motors (https://www.autoweek.com/news/a2017966/general-motors-emerges-bankruptcy/). GM announced this morning that the two companies formed the partnership to build the Badger pickup (https://www.autoweek.com/news/industry-news/a32840452/nikola-passes-ford-market-cap/), a sleek new model due in 2022 powered by your choice of electric batteries or fuel cell technology.
GM said in the deal's announcement that it would be “a strategic partnership that begins with the Nikola Badger (https://www.autoweek.com/news/trucks/g30874512/gallery-nikola-announces-the-zero-emissions-badger/) and carries cost reductions through Nikola’s programs, including: Nikola Badger, Nikola Tre, Nikola One, Nikola Two and NZT. As part of the agreement, Nikola will utilize General Motors’ Ultium battery system and Hydrotec fuel cell technology, representing a key commercialization milestone for General Motors.”
Those other Nikola-badged products are big semis (https://nikolamotor.com/one), an area Nikola specializes in. Nikola even has a side-by-side (https://nikolamotor.com/powersports) and a personal watercraft in the works.
^
I think it was smart move that GM did that
The GM tainted their EV side during the 90s with EV1 that some EV fanboys are still very bitter with what GM did with EV1.
Only way for then was to acquire or invest in other EV companies.
I just made an example to someone that diversification is good, but some not.
I like seltzer/carbon/sparkling water, but I do not know if I can carry a BUDWEISER seltzer water can/bottle while walking around the street.
Same goes with GM and EV.
Didn't want to start a new thread, so this article can go here. It's about turning carbon dioxide into ethanol.
https://scitechdaily.com/breakthrough-electrocatalyst-turns-carbon-dioxide-into-ethanol/amp/
Some guy sent me a link of same/similar article on popular mechanics (https://www.popularmechanics.com/science/a33573417/carbon-dioxide-ethanol-catalyst/).
I think the energy difference between ethanol+3O2 ---> 3 water +2 carbon dioxide requires mucho energy. It would be nice to see what catalyst and ext molecules added to lower the cost significantly.
https://media.cheggcdn.com/study/b35/b356943c-78e2-44ee-8f45-9eff08059598/202816-4-35IQ1.png
Didn't want to start a new thread, so this article can go here. It's about turning carbon dioxide into ethanol.
https://scitechdaily.com/breakthrough-electrocatalyst-turns-carbon-dioxide-into-ethanol/amp/
While neat, ethanol belongs in a glass, not in a fuel tank. Causes too many problems.
I figured that would be the main response. Sounds like this will be a catalyst for figuring out what else CO2 can be turned into.
Didn't want to start a new thread, so this article can go here. It's about turning carbon dioxide into ethanol.
https://scitechdaily.com/breakthrough-electrocatalyst-turns-carbon-dioxide-into-ethanol/amp/
Flora needs a better union. Humans stealing their food to make ethanol... Oh, the humanity!
I figured that would be the main response. Sounds like this will be a catalyst for figuring out what else CO2 can be turned into.
CO2 can be turned into food. It can be turned into new homes and fine furniture. It can be turned into toilet paper when people need to start buying it again in 2025.
Speaking of CO2, I remember Boulder environmental carbon emission hating Pendejo was throwing party.
He was using dry ice inside the beer cooler.
One of them was also driving old beetles which had much older emission and pollute.
Yeah, that car probably doesn't emit as much CO2 as it needs to be, but emits tons of carbon monoxide.
[LOL]
Aloha_Shooter
09-24-2020, 15:37
https://youtu.be/Uc7gDmIq0DI
Cars are increasingly going the route of computers and smartphones. Tesla's approach to cars appears to me to be the most like Apple's. There are strengths and weaknesses in this approach but I am very leery of manufacturer's peering in for "unauthorized modifications". I can't imagine Porsche will take this approach with the Taycan (or Subaru or Honda, for that matter) given how much of their customer base likes to modify their cars.
Nissan has been doing this for a long time worth their GT-R. What was the deal again? I think you have to ask the factory to unlock the governor, and the car's GPS has to show it at an approved track or something. That was like 10 years ago.
The Babylon Bee: State With No Electricity Orders Everyone To Drive Cars That Run On Electricity (https://babylonbee.com/news/state-with-no-electricity-orders-everyone-to-drive-cars-that-run-on-electricity/)
By the year 2035, the move is expected to completely eliminate all gasoline car carbon emissions, smog, and California residents.
Thinking of getting an older Volvo wagon and lifting it for extra clearance. Then driving the crap out of it on dirt road. Thoughts?
I know someone with one for sale. Might not be the model you want though. It's not the Xcross or whatever.
DenverGP
09-24-2020, 22:57
Wife's relatively new 2017 Equinox with about 70k miles on it had a "service engine soon" light pop up. Powertrain warranty ran out at 60k. I checked the code, it was an emissions related code (P0496, evap leak), so I thought the 80k mile emissions warranty should cover it. Checked with 2 dealerships and even called direct to Chevy, all of them confirmed it was not covered. Besides the SES light, the only issue has been hard-starting after filling up the tank.
I did try the generic "tighten/replace the gas cap" that is often suggested on any evap error, but no luck.
After a little google research, found that on the 3.6l V6, this code is often thrown due to a faulty purge valve. Valve cost me $15 off amazon, and replacing it took about 30 min total, including getting out the right tools, fighting with a stubborn connector, etc. Cleared the code and so far it hasn't come back. I was able to blow thru the old valve, which should be air-tight when no electrical signal is present on the electrical connector, so pretty confident it was the faulty part.
Yep looking at an XC70. Not sure if I want to go gen 2 or 3 yet aka P2 vs P3.
GilpinGuy
09-24-2020, 23:22
Still have a 2011 Nissan Rogue in the backyard with an f-ed up tranny. Maybe if I wait a few more years it'll be worth more as a "low milage fixer upper". [gohome]
Damn CVT. [Mad]
When my mother got an used 12' Altima w/ 58k ish miles (i do not remember exact miles now) , I did the transmission fluid change with idemitsu cvt fluid within a month of purchase. Then ~5 weeks after the fluid change, she got into an accident and it was total loss. Drunk driver went over the median, and my mother tried to dodge it. Hit a pole.
I should have waited doing the fluid.... waste of $70ish and 1hr of labor.
https://youtu.be/Uc7gDmIq0DI
Cars are increasingly going the route of computers and smartphones. Tesla's approach to cars appears to me to be the most like Apple's. There are strengths and weaknesses in this approach but I am very leery of manufacturer's peering in for "unauthorized modifications". I can't imagine Porsche will take this approach with the Taycan (or Subaru or Honda, for that matter) given how much of their customer base likes to modify their cars.
I keep thinking too, that seeing "classic" e.g. 2020 vehicles in 2050 is just not going to happen. You'll still have the rare muscle car from the 60s and 70s, but when they link with this level of software control and proprietary bullshit, it's going to last only a bit longer than our mobile phones do before it becomes such a monumental effort to fix and/or update it, if not impossible, that it won't be equivalent to restoring a classic car today. They'll be scrap save for very rare examples in the most nerdiest OCD of homes, which probably wont be driven anyway because they can't put their soldering iron down.
Ford's new CEO is cousin of actor Chris Farley ? but has another celebrity relative, too
PHOEBE WALL HOWARD | DETROIT FREE PRESS | 1 hour ago
https://amp.freep.com/amp/3577319001
Let?s see is it a day ending in Y? Yep. Audi needs love. I thin one of the injectors failed. Being German engineering it failed open.
Subaru must be looking pretty good by now when it comes to imported AWD vehicles.
Let?s see is it a day ending in Y? Yep. Audi needs love. I thin one of the injectors failed. Being German engineering it failed open.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/1316595744_clarkson-power-54ad3f5cc7d25.jpg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UxqyVNh5eQ8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ta4fK5jpJ24
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m46ds7UxxQI
Stupid, but I think I'm making one happen next year. Wifes sold too.
Subaru must be looking pretty good by now when it comes to imported AWD vehicles.
Sort of. The crosstrek is the sweet spot for me. But the H4 head gaskets are iffy and the cvt has had issues.
A Hyundai Tucson with a 10/100 warranty is becoming more appealing.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UxqyVNh5eQ8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ta4fK5jpJ24
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m46ds7UxxQI
Stupid, but I think I'm making one happen next year. Wifes sold too.
POWERTRAIN
Maximum power (hp/rpm) 575/6,500
Maximum torque (lb-ft/rpm) 516/3,500-5,000
Transmission Automatic
Capacity (cc) 5,000
WEIGHTS
https://buildyour.jaguarusa.com/jag2/r/summary/_/en_us/f-type_k21/4859j/a-50p-575-aawd_a-cecpbs_a-f-type_sr1/a-rec-a-50p-575aawd-cp-sr1_n-017wb_n-022ay_n-025ct_n-025ln_n-032dv_n-041cx_n-300jf
You can always make money and save more if you want.
You will have smile daily every day.*
*until you want to upgrade it to mclaren 720s. [panic]
Can't wait for self-driving cars.
http://youtu.be/x4fdUx6d4QM
This is fake news!
https://www.foxbusiness.com/markets/consumer-reports-tesla-reliability.amp
Consumer Reports puts Tesla in second-to-last place for most reliable new cars
Tesla's Model Y earned just 5 points on a 100-point scale
By Audrey ConklinFOXBusiness
Consumer Reports put Tesla in 25th place out of 26 total brands in this year's edition of its annual auto reliability brand rankings.
Mazda, Toyota and Lexus ranked in the top three spots for most reliable new cars, but Consumer Reporters noted in its analysis that brands ranking in the bottom third made "significant improvements" in 2020.
Rankings are "based on the average predicted reliability score for vehicles in the brand?s model lineup," according to the analysis.......
I read an article earlier where a Model 3 crashed at around 100mph, sending battery cells flying. 1 of which went through a window and landed on someone's lap. Another went through a window, landed on the bed sheets and started a fire.
GilpinGuy
11-19-2020, 22:58
It's Fox. Can't be fake. [Flower]
Saw the silver f type r driving very fast at 120th and Holly area.
Maybe owner of the f type r wanted to show his car was faster than small taco.
Looks like Moog sucks. Pretty much everything in this photo has just under 4,000 miles on it. The lower ball joint boot is already ripped. To be fair to Moog, I was trying to keep up with my buddy angry driving his 4Runner on 37's on a bumpy trail and I also blew out a rear shock. So I don't know if the boot ripping was from that, or even if it was, if that should have happened.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3ciIwlxVX__YOfweocPoS7kTwkMEvyr3Pu4Aw0Ot4_y22zQ15L MtahKloPrLfBYcKtWAR8gkdn9lMQXQxUzng_1UE5B8CWSL1Xv-gMITI_Zd6v3OHKck0TAmrVLhk9mjP-go3F_5Qk_7NODwVuPx23-BA=w1112-h626-no?authuser=0
GilpinGuy
12-13-2020, 18:21
I've had pretty good luck with Moog stuff. Maybe you got a bum part. Isn't that still under warranty? Still sucks to have to do the work though.
It's more than just one part though. It's the upper and lower ball joints on both sides and the steering linkage on both sides. Even the axle hubs are rusted, but those aren't Moog.
Here is the other, just as rusty side. I suppose as long as the parts do what they are supposed to do, the rust doesn't bother me too much, but I thought the finish would last longer than a few months.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eqVDHQRRQIaVuNExST3Ii1B2nbwu_mSRkqim5m20omAJqfseH LdJqDpJd4Y4CUeP8v4lJOtWl0O5DFE-gr1FFU9hN-7UBACxistmBd20NROWeepIpQIrbfYdtrshO0mat4MOFbGZ1RiN 5eKb4PG7CXHA=w1112-h626-no?authuser=0
Grant H.
12-13-2020, 19:56
Moog has really gone downhill in recent years.
In the 2500/3500 Diesel groups they used to be pretty popular, but they wear out too quickly now, which sucks since the rest of the known good options are $$$.
TheSparkens
12-13-2020, 21:01
Just got finished putting a lift on my 2014 Taco. To the alignment shop, it will go now. You have some big-time rust and the joints that link the LCA and the sway control bar look like crap. Who did the work? Did they torque everything?
I worry about doing the lift because you need to have an alignment person that knows how to do the work even though it's not to spec. I did an ICon add a leaf and retained the overload because I tow a trailer. I hope the rear will settle a little. I have firestone airbags but hopefully, the add-a-leaf will help the bags. So both the front and back are at about 2" extra with the back being a little more. I have Bilstein 5100 all around and it rides great.
I did all the work, in this thread, around Feb-Mar. I didn't touch the say bars, so those are 20 years old.
A 2" lift is nothing and any competent alignment shop can handle that. If they tell you that it will cost more or give you any bullshit about custom work, just leave and go elsewhere. I did a 1.5" diff drop, ball joint flip, and lifted something like 1.5-2" and Stan's Alignment on Colfax did the alignment in line 30 min with zero issues. I had the entire axle and all of the suspension out and there was no issue. I replaced everything but the sway bar bushings.
Sounds like Moog is just as bad as Dorman.
I bought some Dorman door wiring for my 04 RAM QC rear doors and the rubber boots and wiring didn't make it 2 years.
So my 4wd has not been activating reliably. I noticed it first happened when I was driving in the snow and wanted to see how snow driving fully locked was. I assumed, without any real knowledge of what was going on, that it was somehow freezing up. I was right. When I pulled the axle earlier this year, I probably didn't put the vent tube back into place correctly, as I found it dangling today. I pulled the cover on the box where the actuator slides the pawl over to engage the driver side front wheel and I found it full of ice.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cpQ6_umK5bubN6ecV3fBQdwbwCgsBHi_GQZ-i_o3M3H65inS7yaDkwzOqYwwHj9WPpVIuI98-yqaGIYIBfFuGpFasvtzjzcH1eejbBa4_IoyeOSyhrU185LPmKa rQTHdvMpVZYuysneCI8847bLt3WZg=w980-h625-no?authuser=0
So that means that the water crossing I did on the one 4wd trip I made probably filled this, and the axle tube, and the front diff, with water. Then dirt has been getting into here during all those hunting trips on dirt roads. It's a big mess.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d2FUovhdcIXSvmNcV_WVBFKh02B4H6daXM9bJkI_n0uADkoA5 Tl3FqAC7RdsQE0Fg_cKajUyyidA0Ay-s8ERmQak23FhCAjyNox8Qh6ipIYmCiN5FWJSz_p9rnr737xW9c MFrgXhTCK1LX0Yniqo_kiw=w808-h625-no?authuser=0
I pulled it into my heated garage and will let everything melt out for a few days. Now I get to try and flush the entire front axle of all the crap that is probably in there. Harumph.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dpxBuZ6eo-hwXmVJwaQB2nb9TYvY3Fztt52IR_elQpAbnw1eFsd5YJE6X3ui VQ_gXXQU2x7JQOuMhE1a6wLDMbEge4q7iqyMeUs3m2NSPC2LUQ o3ZkX1Uk1qLoOKzw10Ilwwvk-mpEdbHbRTvUBSx26A=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
TheSparkens
12-14-2020, 21:07
I did all the work, in this thread, around Feb-Mar. I didn't touch the say bars, so those are 20 years old.
A 2" lift is nothing and any competent alignment shop can handle that. If they tell you that it will cost more or give you any bullshit about custom work, just leave and go elsewhere. I did a 1.5" diff drop, ball joint flip, and lifted something like 1.5-2" and Steve's Alignment on Colfax did the alignment in line 30 min with zero issues. I had the entire axle and all of the suspension out and there was no issue. I replaced everything but the sway bar bushings.
Got it thanks for the reference. I hope they are not to busy and open for business I will look them up.
I just looked it up, it was Stan's Alignment toward Aurora.
Stu, is that due to rubber failure or a tear due to crap hitting the rubber? Could also be pinching it due to the 2? lift, I say that because the rips are sort of mirrored.
Bummer about the axle.
Only the passenger side lower ball joint boot is torn, in the first picture. Everything else is okay. It does kind of look like something just stabbed the ball joint boot, so it might not be Moogs fault at all.
thedave1164
12-15-2020, 07:59
Moog is like a lot of other brands, they are just riding the name and the quality is India level.
No part. No manufacturers vehicle purchase regardless of Jet , EV or ICE.
Benoit was appalled by Tesla?s behavior, especially given that it is a ?company that claimed to be so green and environmentally conscious,? he noted.
Meanwhile, Tesla?s cars ?are sitting in fields with all these lithium ion batteries and all that lithium literally goes back into the Earth,? Benoit pointed out. ?So it?s like: wait a minute. I thought you were being sustainable??
https://www.vice.com/amp/en/article/dy8y5m/rich-rebuilds-is-fighting-for-the-right-to-repair
TheSparkens
12-17-2020, 20:24
I just looked it up, it was Stan's Alignment toward Aurora.
Thanks again I was having a hard time finding it. I will call them.
SouthPaw
12-22-2020, 09:52
So someone smarter than me may be able to point me in the right direction. I have two similar issues going on with two separate vehicles. Both batteries have been replaced a year ago.
2014 GMC Terrain - Car was having trouble starting last year so I went to test the battery. Upon inspection, the negative cable was so corroded, I actually pulled the post out of the battery removing it because it was seized. Battery was replaced with a Napa Legend 75 series. A week ago, car went into limp mode with every light on the dash on (ABS, traction control, stability control, check engine, oil pressure, etc) while driving on the highway. Pulled over, shut off and restarted. All lights were now off except the check engine light which was for fuel circuit voltage high or something similar. Drove fine the rest of the way home. Once I got in the garage it seemed to me like a battery problem so I inspected the cables. Again, the negative cable was corroded but not quite as bad this time. I got it apart, cleaned it all up and sprayed some corrosion protective spray on it. During this, there was one tiny wire with an eyelet attached to it that ran along the negative cable and attached to a small ground bolt right before the terminal. Both the eyelet and bolt were corroded and while cleaning the eyelet, it snapped off. I cut it off and replaced with a new one so I am thinking maybe that was for some BCM or possible ECM ground that was on its last leg. Has been fine so far with no issues.
2000 Tundra - Battery was replaced a year ago with Napa Legend 75 series. On this truck, the positive cable gets heavily corroded and the battery leaks through the caps. About six weeks ago, I removed the cables, cleaned them up, sprayed protectant and put those cheap little felt pads on it. This morning, the battery was dead and had to be jumped. As you can see from this pic, it has been leaking enough to start eating the paint off the hold down strap.
https://i.postimg.cc/bYGHK5T3/AF12-C72-B-96-B9-4318-B2-FE-58305550-B8-B2.png (https://postimg.cc/xq2zmtBz)
So I have one vehicle that corrodes the negative cable and one that corrodes the positive terminal. I don?t think it?s the batteries as the Terrain was already doing that to the OEM battery. Any ideas what to start checking out?
SouthPaw
12-22-2020, 11:06
Went and got the tundra battery tested and it was bad. Rated at 875cc and tested at 486cc. Hopefully that was the cause.
Thanks again I was having a hard time finding it. I will call them.
Did you ever get your alignment?
My lovely wife ran over a parking block and tore the factory flex pipe. From the factory it's a one piece unit that includes the CAT. I think a replacement is a couple hundred dollars, and paying a shop to weld in a new flex pipe is the same. I just cut it out myself and welded in a new one for something like $33. Having this welder sure has paid for itself over the last year or two.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d1ntBpPKA3kV5xwb8ybK1ND4vFy1dBfoeQLrZZrlKU8Rbd5Kc IfKCYQIVrB1XFBGOx9aM_9WM-1p4GwtyU1fkrQzdhxVJ1_JApvhfnIzOqbzFrL6CPirNcRV4I4w Fr1iYQVZ4Qun1d9-xW0ciYxegb9w=w741-h625-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3e6vvPHxIkGfpuKDX3BrAae3Abu_B4g6lK5cvqmZv_U_mmJMfm wRtDli_u0rYtB3l0sMFoWiSCl1_TxdQrSwU2G2lNgeZsCXydvM uDR3LeIowoXO9ezF60k4HYmY8fSCIHi2w_YiS2Mx9v1rsjmmk7 YXw=w1366-h616-no?authuser=0
When it warms back up I'm going to pull it back off and paint it since I just used regular carbon steel filler instead of stainless. I have a small roll of stainless wire, and a bottle of 100% argon, but when I've tried that combo in the past, it didn't weld well at all. Using regular steel on the stainless exhaust was okay, but I had a few instances where I would watch the weld puddle bubble up, then burst into a huge crater. I'm assuming I didn't do a great job of cleaning and was running into contaminates, but I don't really know.
For the life of me I can't run a bead on 18 gauge, or thinner, without burning through, so I end up chaining together a bunch of spot welds. That seems to work well enough, but I'm annoyed that I can't figure out how to run a bead on stuff that thin. Perhaps .30 is too thick? Anyway, half the time I get welds that lay down, and the other half I get welds that don't lay flat at all. I can't tell what I'm doing different in those cases. In the long run, it doesn't leak, so I guess I'm happy.
TheSparkens
01-26-2021, 20:38
Did you ever get your alignment? Yes I did and they had no problem getting it to spec. About your exhaust I always used a torch and a clothing hanger and braised them together.
To Bear Arms
01-26-2021, 20:45
It has been a long time since I have mig welded, so I don't remember what size of wire to use. But on my welder if I followed the chart on the welder to a "t" I could weld really thin stuff. almost better then the thicker stuff.
Did you happen to clean the inside of the pipe as well? It also helps to cap the ends and purge gas into the pipe.
SideShow Bob
01-26-2021, 20:48
Went and got the tundra battery tested and it was bad. Rated at 875cc and tested at 486cc. Hopefully that was the cause.
A little late to the party, but check voltage at the battery terminals while it is running. If you have jump started both of these vehicles in the past, especially the GMC you may have fried the rectifier/regulators built into the alternators.
This is a more frequent problem as the manufacturers are using cheaper and cheaper components to build cars nowadays.
After starting and give a minute or two to stabilize, you shouldn?t measure no more than 14.6 -14.8 VDC. Also get a fairly inexpensive digital voltage monitor that plugs into your cigarette lighter and monitor the voltage while driving. The same voltage range should apply.
If you are reading 15.0 VDC or greater while driving, you are over charging your battery and damaging it & shortening the the battery life.
Don?t go by the analog volt meter in the dash, it is very inaccurate.
You can buy the internal rectifier/regulator fairly cheaply and it is a easy job to replace them unless the alternator is in a hard to reach location.
Yes I did and they had no problem getting it to spec. About your exhaust I always used a torch and a clothing hanger and braised them together.
What kind of torch? Acetylene? How do you know that the wire in a coat hanger is the material you want?
It has been a long time since I have mig welded, so I don't remember what size of wire to use. But on my welder if I followed the chart on the welder to a "t" I could weld really thin stuff. almost better then the thicker stuff.
Did you happen to clean the inside of the pipe as well? It also helps to cap the ends and purge gas into the pipe.
I didn't clean the inside. I was surprised how large a 4cylinder Camry exhaust was, but after I cut it, I realized it looked so big because it was double walled. I only cleaned up each end with a flap disc. I forgot to even wipe it down with acetone.
SouthPaw
01-26-2021, 21:35
A little late to the party, but check voltage at the battery terminals while it is running. If you have jump started both of these vehicles in the past, especially the GMC you may have fried the rectifier/regulators built into the alternators.
This is a more frequent problem as the manufacturers are using cheaper and cheaper components to build cars nowadays.
After starting and give a minute or two to stabilize, you shouldn?t measure no more than 14.6 -14.8 VDC. Also get a fairly inexpensive digital voltage monitor that plugs into your cigarette lighter and monitor the voltage while driving. The same voltage range should apply.
If you are reading 15.0 VDC or greater while driving, you are over charging your battery and damaging it & shortening the the battery life.
Don?t go by the analog volt meter in the dash, it is very inaccurate.
You can buy the internal rectifier/regulator fairly cheaply and it is a easy job to replace them unless the alternator is in a hard to reach location.
I do have a volt meter in the cig lighter as well as old Android with the Torque App installed on my Tundra. I will watch readings tomorrow and report back. I was always curious how accurate those cig volt meters are though. From what I remember, I do not ever recall seeing it above 15v, but I do recall seeing it in 13v-13.8v range. I’ll get exact results tomorrow.
SideShow Bob
01-26-2021, 21:45
I do have a volt meter in the cig lighter as well as old Android with the Torque App installed on my Tundra. I will watch readings tomorrow and report back. I was always curious how accurate those cig volt meters are though. From what I remember, I do not ever recall seeing it above 15v, but I do recall seeing it in 13v-13.8v range. I’ll get exact results tomorrow.
Compare your readings with a good quality DMM (digital multi meter) to see how accurate your cig volt meter is.
GilpinGuy
01-27-2021, 04:07
Looks like the transfer case in my 01 F150 finally blew up. Making all kinds of noise and going in and out of fwd when engaged. Perfect timing with snow season coming, not being allowed to work by Pole-Us, and unemployment ran out last week. I simply cannot get home without 4x4 with snow on the road, period.
This truck is OLD. 335k miles, 5.4L Supercrew. But she runs great for my needs otherwise. Any chance anyone has a lead on a TC from a junker or something?
Martinjmpr
01-27-2021, 08:47
Looks like the transfer case in my 01 F150 finally blew up. Making all kinds of noise and going in and out of fwd when engaged. Perfect timing with snow season coming, not being allowed to work by Pole-Us, and unemployment ran out last week. I simply cannot get home without 4x4 with snow on the road, period.
This truck is OLD. 335k miles, 5.4L Supercrew. But she runs great for my needs otherwise. Any chance anyone has a lead on a TC from a junker or something?
Dang that sucks. Is it the case or the electronic shifter? On my '04 Suburban with the electronic T-case shifter there was a common malfunction where the motor or controller would quit or start acting up. The nice thing was that GM designed the case so that the motor could be removed and replaced from the outside. It was like a $150 part and I had mine installed for less than $100 at a local repair shop (non-dealer) when my truck started throwing "Service 4wd" codes.
If it's just the electric switch it may be a less expensive repair than replacing the whole TC but I don't know how Ford TCs work.
Looks like the transfer case in my 01 F150 finally blew up. Making all kinds of noise and going in and out of fwd when engaged. Perfect timing with snow season coming, not being allowed to work by Pole-Us, and unemployment ran out last week. I simply cannot get home without 4x4 with snow on the road, period.
This truck is OLD. 335k miles, 5.4L Supercrew. But she runs great for my needs otherwise. Any chance anyone has a lead on a TC from a junker or something?
Car-part.com lists several in the metro. Not a bad price either.
I do steer clear of Stadium Auto Parts on Mulberry, as they tried to rip me off and said some pretty racist shit directly in front of a customer (me). Not a Karen or anything, but they should keep that shit to themselves.
That really sucks Gilpin. Do you at least have a garage to work on it in?
SouthPaw
01-27-2021, 11:57
Compare your readings with a good quality DMM (digital multi meter) to see how accurate your cig volt meter is.
So while driving, it holds a steady 13.4-13.8v. It holds the same at idle until I put the high beams on, heater full blast, all light bars and rolled down the windows. When I did all of that, the engine bogged slightly and volts dropped to 12.7 for about 3-5 seconds and then picked up back to normal.
https://i.postimg.cc/kX8tYjDV/606-CEE5-C-C96-E-439-C-A152-C4585-AF539-F3.jpg (https://postimages.org/)
As you can see, the Torque App records the lowest and highest readings. Lowest 12.7v and highest was just over 14v.
https://i.postimg.cc/kMH4mWLx/EB296-D12-D7-F2-4-F75-BA55-D6025-EDA484-B.jpg (https://postimages.org/)
GilpinGuy
01-27-2021, 16:59
Thanks for the tips guys.
That really sucks Gilpin. Do you at
least have a garage to work on it in?
I don't have one but have some friends that have decent setups I can use.
SideShow Bob
01-27-2021, 19:30
Your voltage from the rectifier/regulator is good, check, clean & tighten the connection at the starter solenoid where the wire from the aleatory connects to the positive cable from your battery. Also check, clean & tighten all grounding cables and braided straps. Use an ohm meter to test resistance from end to end for internal resistance caused by corrosion, even if there is none visible.
Other than that, try a new quality battery, some parts store brands are not as high a quality as even as little as 10 years ago.
Even the battery in my wife’s, bought new, 2018 Honda didn’t last quite 2 years, and it is always garaged.
It's Trooper time again. It's back in the garage and might be there a while. On the list for immediate due date are
-1" body lift
-Clutch
-3:1 low gears in the transfer case.
Usually a body lift would be a couple hour job, but I've been putting all of this off for the last 9 months or so. I decided to quit being a baby and jump in. Things are only going okay so far. There are 12 mounts, and 6 of those are captured bolts. Of the 6, I've only broken one, which means I'll only have to drill through the body in one spot. Could be worse I guess. Also, to get to the rear most mounts, I had to pull the back bumper off. Not a huge deal, but the truck barely fits in my garage as it is, and I'm trying to keep the door closed since it's in the 20's every day. Makes for some tighter than usual work conditions.
Here's the main issue I was dealing with. This is one of the mounts in good condition. The nut loosened without breaking, I could push the bolt out the top with no problems, and the sleeve is in good shape and slipped right out.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dceKkJDLwHluo-PmiRkrQEh-b2j9N7XpKH4zeVZMtxQeQd5bCvwZ3-vLRUOzjTIH6URzcFKmk6E4rokUCm32V6ERvnmY6KhTd05JPj6U DgkqrVFRT5FaSe9AkgdmPM4OEgDbzqndp996ejrbEQ8-cu-g=w469-h625-no?authuser=0
Both front mounts (style No 1 below) broke on me, and instead of just lifting out like they should with the nut broke off, they are solidly in place. After hours of cutting, and banging around, I finally got one free. The sleeve has completely rusted to the bolt and welded itself together. A sledge hammer and a drift punch got it knocked loose.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eY0drgAGgDAOc9i0k0p1GpnKXHGMug9JW2jSFbWTJkzGBt1zz MJml89HVHUrUUpXYo-WX55vWqcjn7g1Zpci775UkLjrnXKZN2f3GcORZkOS9eWSBsFwm k1tTHoxj1nkN_pgvVi0DPNz4SruDJKXqwUw=w905-h533-no?authuser=0
Look at this thing, the sleeve is almost unrecognizable.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eui-S9arlCPFAHbNPfHZ5Ss-URTKV8eJWzYIiBWJSkldrLXhJ_4W2ufJtLWq0VslePoLXxuxoD BB2YSw8Ihn5Co4gi_Oq6mYgDNz0LEnJC32d84VZNramiq0j1dW 1sY8wmKOm0-Vgm8qbzmBTMMmyPbw=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dFdO-DzTQN3OAIVXLfq9hft1pNLR09_-do_a5e8oY-pV3R7sQ40SvzurVMH_bi7CRlqcb_UrCCXUC49J7M2HUNTFP3gT 3h4Q-gQyJR6Fxc1r9DcGsnYhbIg7Xw5yxGCBIu2dFxP1Xx0hyl2sVd4 mnRQw=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fyDLKX1IwWD8NHyxSNbcz34gdDj0HkHUDURWeBcpo6nR5fOsU-RhnjpnWprlJHS_jfxUYOitEmR370ZEFvohPjRQQlPAXLUhWB8J bDG2fCOnLx_5P7OMFxdS0YFo-r2GIHoXFEkSnnOFdDz5lPgl_ffg=w469-h625-no?authuser=0
I'll update later when I've made progress worth looking at, but it'll be a while. Neighbor is trying to convince me to just build a rear bumper now since we had to remove the factory one anyway. That's way ahead of schedule for me so we'll see what actually happens.
We removed the back bumper, then realized we should be removing the gas tank. So I put the back bumper on again. Then we got half way through dropping the tank and realized we didn't need to do that either. Everyone helped, then the next night I was able to finish it up. The Trooper is getting too tall. I'm concerned that it'll be pretty tippy. I need to widen the stance. With the 1" body lift, I could probably completely drop my lift and even go up a tire size. Anyway, now I've got the bumper gaps, but those are going away at some point.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cm6B054hsPOZf2rts-nsFcDBL2ly5YIGf7gIogx37-h5zh_jgiOcXOyhltPfDVtNr1HmmOrsgMZiuAUg6tiXu4t7NLLd tmvB5WPTEmJUL6v-71OS448ArfeVK67o36TrgbbfpDGjFT8XN7ZegBraoe6Q=w832-h625-no?authuser=0
HunterCO
02-21-2021, 23:47
Why you should never use stop leak in a cooling system Or as I tried in vein to explain in another thread why you should never put gas in a diesel it causes bad shit to happen its all good with me not my vehicle I don't care stupid hurts not my problem. This Is a heater core I just changed out on a ford f150 2000. I cut the core open to prove my point. Originaly the radiator leaked I told them to replace it or I would but im a stupid master tech with over 30+ years so what do I know. They used stop leak then the radiator started leaking again and they changed it. Then winter came and they had no heat LMAO! Again im a dipshit. For me listening to backyard mechanics talk about vehicles is like listening to liberals talk about guns its hilarious.
85155
This is what it takes to change it not a big deal for me only took 4 hours and it pays 8.5 hours.
85156
Why you should never use stop leak in a cooling system Or as I tried in vein to explain in another thread why you should never put gas in a diesel it causes bad shit to happen its all good with me not my vehicle I don't care stupid hurts not my problem. This Is a heater core I just changed out on a ford f150 2000. I cut the core open to prove my point. Originaly the radiator leaked I told them to replace it or I would but im a stupid master tech with over 30+ years so what do I know. They used stop leak then the radiator started leaking again and they changed it. Then winter came and they had no heat LMAO! Again im a dipshit. For me listening to backyard mechanics talk about vehicles is like listening to liberals talk about guns its hilarious.
85155
This is what it takes to change it not a big deal for me only took 4 hours and it pays 8.5 hours.
85156
Hey!
I'm a backyard mechanic, and would never put that stop leak shit in any vehicle.
Nasty looking. Ive always improvised with dough-style epoxy. To the point I always keep some in my vehicle/motorcycle b.o.b. had a good 12" split on the top of a radiator once...patched it with that, never did replace it, never leaked and lasted years. Also rippes out a drain plug on a motorcyle while 2up off road. Walked out, got oil, walked in and made a temporary plug out of the epoxy. Held until I could get it into a shop. The thought of trying to fix leaks by adding crap to the fluids is crazy though.
HunterCO
02-22-2021, 02:08
Nasty looking. Ive always improvised with dough-style epoxy. To the point I always keep some in my vehicle/motorcycle b.o.b. had a good 12" split on the top of a radiator once...patched it with that, never did replace it, never leaked and lasted years. Also rippes out a drain plug on a motorcyle while 2up off road. Walked out, got oil, walked in and made a temporary plug out of the epoxy. Held until I could get it into a shop. The thought of trying to fix leaks by adding crap to the fluids is crazy though.
get some rapid fix that shit will blow your mind tens times better than epoxy.
GilpinGuy
02-22-2021, 02:43
This is what it takes to change it not a big deal for me only took 4 hours and it pays 8.5 hours.
I think some folks are thinking WTF?
HunterCO
02-22-2021, 05:03
I think some folks are thinking WTF?
Why? I have done it for over 30 years you could blind fold me and I could do it LOL. It go's both ways sometimes book time is bullshit and you cant even break even then other times you make bank its the nature of being a tech.
Been a long time since I worked flat rate.
I vaguely remember several jobs that paid well beyond the time it took to do the work. Evaporator cores in some of the E and S class Mercedes paid especially well even under warranty. There was an air blend actuator on certain Volvos that paid about eight hours under warranty but with some improvised tooling and a little patience I managed to knock those things out in about an hour.
HunterCO
02-24-2021, 21:07
Her boyfriend did her brake job it pulls bad and grinds. [ROFL1] Just when I think I have seen and heard it all somebody has to prove me wrong.
85192
Hey, we all have off days.
HunterCO
02-24-2021, 21:41
Been a long time since I worked flat rate.
I vaguely remember several jobs that paid well beyond the time it took to do the work. Evaporator cores in some of the E and S class Mercedes paid especially well even under warranty. There was an air blend actuator on certain Volvos that paid about eight hours under warranty but with some improvised tooling and a little patience I managed to knock those things out in about an hour.
Yeah I love injector cups on a 7.3l pays 18 hours because they say you have to pull the heads I made a special tool that allows me to do it in 4 hours and I don't pull the heads. Flat rate is about beating the book but the shity part is some techs dont give a shit about the quality of work they do. I never compromise my quality of work to beat the book. That is the problem with flat rate many techs dont give a shit its all about the pay check. I will lose my ass and do it rite before I beat the book.
I never compromise my quality of work to beat the book. That is the problem with flat rate many techs dont give a shit its all about the pay check. I will lose my ass and do it rite before I beat the book.
That's really the way to do any (hands on) job, IMO.
HunterCO
02-24-2021, 21:52
That's really the way to do any (hands on) job, IMO.
your right so how would you change the injector cups on a 7.3 or 6.0 with out pulling the heads? I already know the answer to the question Im asking your going to youtube and google not realizing its people like me that figured it out in the first place and now you think your smart.
your right so how would you change the injector cups on a 7.3 or 6.0 with out pulling the heads? I already know the answer to the question Im asking your going to youtube and google not realizing its people like me that figured it out in the first place and now you think your smart.
I wasn't trying to be argumentative with my post. I edited it so you can be on the same page.
HunterCO
02-24-2021, 22:23
I wasn't trying to be argumentative with my post. I edited it so you can be on the same page.
ok so answer the question![blah-blah]
I don't know anything about diesels. I've never owned one. Never said I did. How come you act like an asshole with a chip on his shoulder all the time?
HunterCO
02-24-2021, 23:02
I don't know anything about diesels. I've never owned one. Never said I did. How come you act like an asshole with a chip on his shoulder all the time?
I dont and for the record you do realize it takes a while for things to update and I never seen any of what you updated until later so I thought you where being the asshole my bad. however if you think Im an asshole thank you trust me it dont hurt my feelings. Ths is a simple case of misunderstanding it happens on the internet however I never called you and asshole or accused you of having a chip on your shoulder.
Glad we could get that cleared up.
Her boyfriend did her brake job it pulls bad and grinds. [ROFL1] Just when I think I have seen and heard it all somebody has to prove me wrong.
85192
Full metallic pads
Yikes
My dad works on yachts and boats, doesn?t do book or estimates anymore. Everything is hourly. One rusted bolt and it can take half a day to remove the threads.
Myself it takes me about 2x book rate if I don?t tinker with something else. But I do it for myself and OCD and what not.
For those questioning high prices of experienced techs: you are not paying for the labor, you are paying for the experience that will get it right and get you home safely.
HunterCO
02-24-2021, 23:23
Glad we could get that cleared up.
me too now you want to see a very sick 6.7l diesel that cost 35k when I got done with it LOL. Open spear ranch in Molt Montana only a rancher could blow shit up this bad windowed both sides of the block blew the hell out of this 6.7 and took the trans out. [facepalm]
85193
Yes I do. Looks worse than the block on my wife's Ford Focus that blew up at the beginning of last year.
HunterCO
02-24-2021, 23:46
Yes I do. Looks worse than the block on my wife's Ford Focus that blew up at the beginning of last year.
Ok you got me on that one only a women could blow shit up worse than a guy and have no clue why it happened. At least with guys we know exactly why it happened. [ROFL1]
To be fair to my wife, since it was her car, I really dropped the ball on maintenance and I'm sure it was ultimately my fault.
It shot a spark plug out a few weeks/months before and I bought a time-sert kit to rethread it. It worked fine, but I wonder if I didn't do a good job making sure the cylinder was clean and that was the reason it grenaded. Feels like debris inside the cylinder, but on top of the piston, wouldn't have caused the block to shatter, but I only know enough to fix things and get into trouble; not diagnose things.
I forgot that I have an ex-mechanic friend just down the street who has all those time-sert kits already and I wouldn't have had to buy one. Now I can't get rid of the damn thing on Craiglist and I'm completely Fordless. I think the same guy emails and asks if he can have it for $50 every few weeks.
HunterCO
02-25-2021, 00:16
To be fair to my wife, since it was her car, I really dropped the ball on maintenance and I'm sure it was ultimately my fault.
It shot a spark plug out a few weeks/months before and I bought a time-sert kit to rethread it. It worked fine, but I wonder if I didn't do a good job making sure the cylinder was clean and that was the reason it grenaded. Feels like debris inside the cylinder, but on top of the piston, wouldn't have caused the block to shatter, but I only know enough to fix things and get into trouble; not diagnose things.
I forgot that I have an ex-mechanic friend just down the street who has all those time-sert kits already and I wouldn't have had to buy one. Now I can't get rid of the damn thing on Craiglist and I'm completely Fordless. I think the same guy emails and asks if he can have it for $50 every few weeks.
Im not a ford guy or any guy for that matter I grew up chevy but none of it matters to me anymore. My mom wanted a new car back in the day and i told her get a toyota camery or a honda accord. She wanted to buy a chrysler and I told her if she did I would never talk to her again she got a camery. That being said after alll the years I am not brand specific per say but in some ways I am i have seen all the shit I care too. It really comes down to what you want and what you need. If you would have told me 15 years ago i would own a ford much less diesel that would have been fighting words. Now I own one and love it. I have never had a problem with spark plug inserts Ford is not the only one that blows them out however Ford was the worst for it. I have a 6.0l diesel most people will tell you that is the biggest POS ever but mine is bullet proofed as they call it. Its all in perspective depends on your needs and what suits you.
Yeah we got her a Camry as a replacement. I did notice it appears to be smoking on start up now though.
HunterCO
02-25-2021, 00:47
Yeah we got her a Camry as a replacement. I did notice it appears to be smoking on start up now though.
what year and engine and how many miles.
I'll have to look tomorrow. It's a '99 Auto with the 4cyl. I think. Miles are over 100k. I'll look it up tomorrow after work.
HunterCO
02-25-2021, 02:52
I'll have to look tomorrow. It's a '99 Auto with the 4cyl. I think. Miles are over 100k. I'll look it up tomorrow after work.
if its a 4 banger its the 2.2l over 100k its just broke in they run for ever and for a 4 banger the power is not bad. I guess why you think it has a problem?
if its a 4 banger its the 2.2l over 100k its just broke in they run for ever and for a 4 banger the power is not bad. I guess why you think it has a problem?
Oh I know, that's why I got it. My neighbor has had a bunch of turn, and the rest of the car guy group owns or is familiar with them as well so we can tackle any issues. I don't know that it's a problem, just happened to notice it looked a little smokey when it started up yesterday. Still passed emissions when I bought it. I suspect it'll keep running forever, which is why I bought it. That dang Focus grenaded at only 150k. Even my last Caravan went 240k before the tranny let up; and the engine was still fine!
Fentonite
03-02-2021, 09:29
Anyone think this fuel pump is bad?
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/zz339/fentonite/001(11).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/fentonite/a/2bc6139b-3716-4e5d-8f5a-65b2bb40f654/p/7318c142-0377-43e4-b05b-4d6c6a5b1fd9)
It was an easy fix yesterday. My wife?s ?81 Jeep Scrambler (her first car). The rest of it, however, won?t be so simple. The body looks like a 40 year old Jeep, probably needs a frame-off restoration. It runs, but probably could use an engine rebuild as well. I?m thinking about getting it restored for her, as a 20th anniversary present. Anybody know a place?
Anyone think this fuel pump is bad?
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/zz339/fentonite/001(11).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/fentonite/a/2bc6139b-3716-4e5d-8f5a-65b2bb40f654/p/7318c142-0377-43e4-b05b-4d6c6a5b1fd9)
It was an easy fix yesterday. My wife?s ?81 Jeep Scrambler (her first car). The rest of it, however, won?t be so simple. The body looks like a 40 year old Jeep, probably needs a frame-off restoration. It runs, but probably could use an engine rebuild as well. I?m thinking about getting it restored for her, as a 20th anniversary present. Anybody know a place?
It will buff right out.
Btw. You sure the wife wants it restored and not a new ride?
Fentonite
03-02-2021, 11:28
It will buff right out.
Btw. You sure the wife wants it restored and not a new ride?
Yeah, she’s had it since 1985 and won’t get rid of it, so it’s time to restore it before it’s beyond help.
A restored Jeep might pay for a new vehicle if she changes her mind.
How do 27 people fit in a Ford Expedition?
https://www.yahoo.com/gma/multiple-fatalities-california-crash-highway-161600993.html
Fentonite
03-02-2021, 12:39
A restored Jeep might pay for a new vehicle if she changes her mind.
For sure. It would be easier to buy a cherry restored Scrambler, but she wants hers.
SideShow Bob
03-02-2021, 19:13
Jesus.
Was that your answer to 00tec?s question ?
If so, [LOL]
Was that your answer to 00tec?s question ?
If so, [LOL]
Yes. I just hope that Ford is on the hook for breaking immigration laws.
SideShow Bob
03-02-2021, 19:43
And did you pronounce it “Hey Zeus” ?
That is tragic. Whoever the first responders are... They are going to need a lot of help too.
StagLefty
03-03-2021, 08:43
How do 27 people fit in a Ford Expedition?
https://www.yahoo.com/gma/multiple-fatalities-california-crash-highway-161600993.html
I love the part that says state police said there weren't enough seat belts- no shit [ROFL2]
buffalobo
03-03-2021, 09:40
There are many ways to win a Darwin.
Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
Unfortunately this is a team award, led by a bad capitan.
How do 27 people fit in a Ford Expedition?
https://www.yahoo.com/gma/multiple-fatalities-california-crash-highway-161600993.html
Watched a MSM news piece about this last night. They seemed more concerned that laws may have been violated for having that many occupants. They really didn?t seem to worry that laws may have been violated for being in the country illegally.
With that many people in there, I imagine there were some skulls smashing into each other.
SideShow Bob
03-10-2021, 20:12
OK, getting this thread back on topic,
Damn all rabbits, Squirrels, rats mice, all vermin, rodents and chewing critters of the like. May they all suffer slow deaths in the jaws of coyotes, Bob cats, hawks, eagles and any other predators that I have not mentioned.
I drove my truck during and for a couple of days after the last snow storm and parked it as normal. I went out last Sunday Feb. 28th, and went to start it & give its weekly drive to keep it charged (minor parasitic draw that will kill the battery after two weeks of sitting idle) and low and behold, it started but immediately went into “Reduced Engine Power” mode.
Since the sun was starting to set, I opened the hood and gave it a quick look & wiggled easily accessible wiring connectors and wiring harness runs to no avail. I went and picked up. a basic scan tool yesterday on my way home from work. I hooked it up and scanned for codes today. It gave me codes for the Throttle Actuator Control module losing comms. So I search the interwebz for where that module is located, find it, and go out to my truck to look in the hideaway tucked out of sight cubby hole hidden under a fender support bracket location to check things out. What do I find ? Some MoFu cock sucking ass eating wire chewing verminous god forsaken rabbit or squirrel has been under the hood of my truck in that very same hiddey hole and chewed through all the wiring of one of the two wiring connectors.
And of course, the other connector is the one that can be easily replaced as a complete harness that runs from the pedal actuator to the TAC module.
The connector with the chewed up wires runs to several locations such as the PCM, ECM and TPS.... No plug & Play harness section here.
Hell I can?t even find the correct plug with pig tail wires for me to splice back into the wiring harness past the chewed up areas.
Guess I will be Pick N Pull yard searching for year series & engine combination (fairly rare) when this storm is over and everything drys up.
DEATH TO ALL VERMIN !!!!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210311/cea5d42f861b2c978bd3ea4e3fd5982b.jpg
^ do rodent chew on the wires because of the coolant/Antifreeze?
^ do rodent chew on the wires because of the coolant/Antifreeze?
Nah, they just chew on them because bunnies are little pieces of shit.
Bunnies get in the engine compartment hunting warmth, then they just nibble on whatever. Apparently there's some soy component to the wire jacket, so they keep going.
I had some wires chewed on my truck, so I parked it where it was when it happened and waited. Walked out the front door, and the little fucker jumped out. Chased his ass down with the Glock 30. No problems since.
Cat will chew on low voltage wires here unless I rub my hands all over them. I think she thinks it's the wife's and does it to piss her off. Can't tell you how many dc charge cables I've had to patch.
Why she doesn't chew an a/c cord and spare us the misery I can't say.
HunterCO
03-14-2021, 00:22
Had a customer that a squirrel chewed the wires to an injector three damn times the same injector wires over a two week period I repaired three times. WTF was it about those wires I will never know but it did. I repaired them each time using heat shrink and it made no difference. I would have shot the bastard after the first time.
The worst bastards of all is pack rats they are bad in Montana never heard of or seen them in CO you want to talk about destructive little bastards they are the worst.
TheSparkens
03-14-2021, 13:40
We have the pack rats in Como where I park my trailer on my land in the summer. Someone told me to use this and I have never had a problem. I put it all around with a spray bottle. I had seen a few bobcats on my land also.
85468
Oh man, almost had to come here for help. Got it out.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d2zbTTV0ef4GFsk7KKTL5Mz7jx3IPnPp_LfMM-4r-GBO0RmOLFhvbCTiLa5z8ZtlnVCf5020PsE1LaQai8titcA6YbB K31_XzFJS-LWlONG3Cdp2rY4Gw6Qg8BQCMZPnVGWqaMHH7IIW2sq3Jx3Qt5U A=w1366-h616-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eb2D8JpkTuWAzFmQ3JvILpm2AdgrsoGiOBc6k51mFOMhEhGL8 wPifAxJqTJmd1PWyscqZlw-IlC6dYZ8vw704VHd5UaLHfVXF8AHYzJAyxSWy4n15YeVwQs9do OdRQKNkwGtS93CeACCmZI-_ypq21ag=w1366-h616-no?authuser=0
I'm just copying my build thread from the Isuzu board onto here. Sorry if this is boring on here, I'll try not to drag it out.
With the transfer case out and drained, make sure you clean up the outside to prevent stuff from falling in once you open it. I used various brass wire brushes and a pick here and there to dig rocks and dirt out of hard to reach places. I kept my vacuum near by to keep the dirt pile to a low roar as I went along and found stuff I had missed on prior passes. I'll post the Indy4x instructions in italics.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cTCh5FBYNbZxDwSJ3pS_SFN_JRWN_vv59LR3AQHEUcPHmpKtb NluPbwuXh6-AbT-h5_hlNWeq8qtKSaeJWDjwexQ-yLSfDxfeZnNm4mAd1G5i2oN5owqB-Duc1ws8pDAmk-zxhvQdDzxy-4C4pacaBLg=w856-h625-no?authuser=0
Starting at step 5 of the install instructions provided by Independent4x, remove the four 12mm bolts on the low shift unit and remove. I tried to separate the case first, and had difficulty removing this as the case was preventing the ball from coming out. After taping the case with a soft hammer it vibrated out. Shouldn't be a problem if you do this step before pulling the case apart.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dDFNxN-xvyPRVOPwMeMWhbfUlq5qQM_OKIBFJxfJICx_gZfUbKMBM0EcY 4Orten4-UsIJTVl9k3AFsX-3gJRMPiuMdwpiNFTWNLJVOzg2ALQMolYu2ZvEn9q016QiEYxut _R9MhofZUZIyYXkdpSPj4g=w931-h625-no?authuser=0
Next remove the 9 bolts and the 2 stud bolts from the house. NOTE! Mark the location where the 2 stud bolts were removed for later assembly. I used grease paint. If you forget, they are at the bottom, on either side of the drain plug. It starts to separate a bit on it's own and you can get a small pry tool in to help it along.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eQXFWdkAz7c76_xEsyE_FnP2d9SxvVLw0XT8mqRUpkI97MjMo vuc6LLC5rPkG8pZbQN49qmS_MoGXEj8aLq0qV49U1ot20EGHky XYOx24ctLPn1tz_ER-4Wr7459DFzVq-nmRotjM0txUUm6IKbZTb9A=w1024-h625-no?authuser=0
Remove the high-low speed ball detent unit. (This is a 3/4" hex fitting (19mm) that is located on the outside of the housing inline with the shift rail shaft. Remove the hex fitting, spring and ball. DO NOT leave the ball in the hole, as it will fall into the rail shaft hole when the shaft is removed. The yellow arrow indicates the correct detent. I removed both and the bolts, springs, and balls are identical.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3elQZGmhPSj44BOMbEZuVxc34Ae6SwCeCRaZtVsVUMTwNX4YMD TqDYFqeXhQchse2q6DKFBLXIz153qJCd_0W86eEr0quVRkiSmN BGGdr5ZZqyT4MMo6HWt1VNSg0MKrs00E3G17PJI4NG9wDQr8MC gXA=w1011-h625-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cgNpRu7_jtQWlcmHGrp2lFLb9evRNiQdbvhPMbMXb1jklssRb zWOsRCCQzQJHGc3yEtYPMRckabYmQFPJaCOxh7wt6oV6CRH76s ltpyab3lS1dbRXbnBxX2gzoXk2N8-PrbmLlqjp5JhaiWK39QNZirw=w1024-h625-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3f5D0yJaVCcA2I44TIuzM34fJuM6SphDGu_AWdw-Qmc66H71vSoRjVcgLAX6J6s1ltGcwg1mrN2G8NSHroFtbNDDyR hQ7L6nOgvSsH8VbjuElntjaMVbOoph8qWWIpAx15RrYIXtS4-hCrsIpWdF5eNbQ=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
Use a magnet to remove the spring and the ball. Any magnet (or a pick) will work for the spring, but you'll need a small enough magnet to fit down the hole for the ball. Pretty sure this is just some cheap one I picked up from Harbor Freight or whatever auto parts store.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dDcJ4MREjMYejw0756coL9ah2UQ-oJeZ2Mx0HD_IdBANBrocrRSdjIezfl9_Oi2JawnZ6AjDOydrdq 7GSSj8XnChbXV9vhy9bFE1l1Vj46od9HP5lGPQNKgeitoKXPY6-FGeYRxSNSU6rd5CycZuS8mw=w1022-h625-no?authuser=0
Pry the housing apart. NOTE! The 2 locating dowel pins and all the internal shafts (expect the rear wheel drive shaft) stay with the front half of the housing.
This is where I'm stuck now. The case doesn't want to come apart any further, and I'm reluctant to keep prying. I've looked at other instructions on other boards and don't see anything about removing the drive shaft flanges.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3ckkR1KHOcJ5VTCAzwmwWE9oaNd0ShPBNX-c7_he2NaqlNC-FAHXuAn4W1gypwwRBKCPpn1FXfdEUzXsmmvUg-G1GiH9Ba5SulSmCEUNQGUpWYBcprlEFpByZLNNifX9f82w4NNh u4grH6P0lP8Zt_Juw=w957-h625-no?authuser=0
Do I need to do this? What could be holding this together? Does it just need more gentle coercing?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fIQk6eOzQH-YuJYjlO9ZIfRpedMy7aEWcSBy7NFuzGNSG5CjOqNxYAWp6re33 mEQO2e3hEdYxNQY9bHfr_e15r5Mc7MlNh-z_-neoy5NVCqUFhsLBEOd4UWNN3H4Qx8gNJk69CrgcNjur5zIh3Ur YLdQ=w961-h625-no?authuser=0
The electric motor on the back of the T-case, next to the rear driveshaft flange, needs to be removed before the case will separate. There are two bolts, and one stud bolt. In the picture I'm holding the long bolt where it goes to remind me for reassembly, but all the holes are different so it shouldn't be difficult.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cWtl0tJ3TiNbc1wm0dwkY_f0EjU0QYUlvFty2MCpclW02GccK vjJH5My59So715jnpuvBNxlFx7kkKbtzpgcvGvBjK7A0fin8Zj MDKxGKY52JaIecnX4XprGmmxoa2oV0kTyNaaDqijci6-DITEdpeVA=w865-h625-no?authuser=0
I had the case pulled apart as far as I could, and I couldn't get this motor off. By pushing the case back together, it was able to unhook from the tooth and fell off with no trouble.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3e4oLt5AHx-qTM_HQpjkzjGl-PCnnBM5r7gPgKoLHwZ7idT_bprylEvxrqYr31cDJz4Gqf8LVFs thb5lPHBLu9B6bCFO2Mx0BLXSjb3asCvpNDyMeRC1vroZijOSU eZ5v53yf2dOq6oLo9Ica0gjJGeVg=w823-h625-no?authuser=0
Here is a kind of overview of the area with me holding the motor. I'm sorry for the poor pictures. We all know this site has terrible photo hosting, so I keep having to crop the photos to fit the max width limit and it hides a lot of info.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fbfvtdViiaOMdp0nA-eO_wOtl8tktVAQ4x2zW0I-ONSHMo_2oMvMNi-9kxLWe_gQM0vkBStlHqMqvzDt5hp9SQY_JI0T0rR0caWuvzR1D yj6XshgZpUtbgY4Gm_MH91bUF_9KnKYyq5O3QrVPz4FsJSg=w9 20-h625-no?authuser=0
Here is the case separated. This is the front, that retains both dowel pins and all of the gears but one.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3f51VK0q0HhpTqsMFflX0OFXDFZw14BMjFEBbJpz0FGye6-5rP1pZIfaw0ZS-erfJcOjr_B-21wc7-VkaTwZfz1o-ig6xIbjWBk0BSIfLqBodfZPgtPR2jMPU22TBf1d1A20_q0viGa XfanBpbt1_oEkw=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
And here is the back of the case with the one gear that connects to the rear drive shaft.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eItEAxPLdTgZGu-216XeLjqL6ESzEvbq2j0ghjaAmIOp6ja7Iaouk44uWL-q5YVu79AmNFfU8ycCdxE934ALPzFwQOoewTFlrVsMBlQ2717fi xG3jWN9FcZjQa0Yk2pZHw0q6et_Ko6VyAGf-F1lC3Ew=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
Next step per Indy4x instructions, Remove the snap ring on the input shaft. I'm indicating this snap ring in the photo.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3foaEJMH0ON2lczI975H8tWvxU84I_bqKwoj40hpy07ROgaRUp-xCWSVsjghm948ZKSux74RxFQz7v7z6oKyaXr91S1ORP8d5-O51n_m3RWCv4q5vvhWk3mykeonYT-VJ5p0DVhzzO2B-6ECdDcDCbrNA=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
Here is the snap ring and the bearing.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c2ZjUdYAztgYS53Xd0abDQeML5mBGSBd9oTdJcGhPjoQggxBJ DAwma5B2bYDPj-sWiL8LNy29wKyUVTy8Vl4NfW4GpbqwCDdZYUjCqnjpGrhtvpjL 5Luh98IvsiTaMgWhrtp3kFymUGk3sQFdmxcEhJQ=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
Using snap ring pliers and a small screw driver you can remove the snap ring and set aside.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fPkd2ZN3NM50MRvRKgiq2OnUZfn6jyp2btM9_ewAn3OlIf1wf xxlntKxD5q4-qaVWcuA8BY6ZyCOaHOb-QkjHfKVq_j7Yx7OqiaO2-WUxPusDnfVwnYuqVSRUvQKlTsdra4-ZC9NNCbSDuxB-3Ee9uDA=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
Next, Remove the #6305 ball bearing from the input shaft.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3f9EW5Q1IZUfa55h8bXfQFk45TgVg7jVDt2jZfa7m8gKbnNyEV 0fq6NW14-O4JwGs47nNXLQuL44HpTKhBWWLK-LUxbyNb8jKG2Nl5wS0_MkkgVwT04WdFda6X2sKGQDG0D1jCUk8 Q-cUOEkCDDqy9WXA=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
I used a three-jaw gear puller to remove the bearing. Place the jaws on the back of the bearing, screw in the bolt until it holds itself in place, then use a ratchet to tighten the puller and pull the bearing off. The shaft turns as it pulls the bearing off, but it came off smoothly.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dqzH6u6tLy2QmT4MYy5UTVLPQtMyTUXxSNJIoavPgV12sBN72 nQ_u9eefJ0fY7qRkiEFg3Fw2ZI8QRQCoVB70IhHn3Hy8fyzTge PUAHdssHPetwuo0hNNqxPCmcGuYm_8CiFHs-GkvViqha2BDMI5OYg=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
Bearing removed and still in puller.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dJi69PX6ph62SAriW0agfYf1iPlun49z5skIOddjCGluAH4ME nAczTTgw_GrQFzpo1HkousmDl8pMriuFSnqcFpCSH9gWiTEbCZ wgft_K5r_rNOvwqCkAxwX4v7njNWc1e0d1igK_MUlZYXfd3pVw uOA=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
Use a 3/16" wide x 3/32" thick tool to pry the hammered in portion of the nut at the key slot. Remove the nut. A small screw driver fits in this slot perfectly.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3ctUQFTDbN_1zb46dAOK8wDc6v3mpxZdiE1SGHHmaEF9TSXe5I 6Ovmox2wRF5W9ZCPM52t8terI0pyN23wd9rJu8F2rPhubNYycj gKVWLjIMnmdPC37CH-lWurOKwKk9GDQ5AhW0gp_ov_mRK4AUiv3Zg=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
DO NOT DO THIS. I used a hammer to gently tap the screw driver into the slot as a wedge to open the dimple up. The screw driver was a bit too narrow for this, so I found a second screw driver and continued to tap on the top screw driver. DO NOT DO THIS. This was unnecessary and damages the threads.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dEQXbSWbR2KlcRj5Uj8MinQyig6B6Gk7IzNFIZX3Xnv-dIsIRYxPZIt9HRxOoo0F3phQgaulmZ9rYRrhRVz6q7F9lM5Gup mSbJTbNzmFU5T4_ljokAllVfK0tg0O-gHlj3vWAyJIEQdnANMzLi9Qu4_A=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
Now it should be opened up enough to get the nut off.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3e4RyCmVHm4sT7S4wyKnlH09dhCK-pM3fpnh9tNJkoJXnFOOlHYl-5_wf84tP0q4oymqwYqUD35Z39YxrsxzJLs0yMDPrpjbn_LmV1C A6FDnf1S14jj73O-G-v-xtRbhX7vzCRzbuHVGf3hd0YVpgWjjQ=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
The nut is 41mm or 1 5/8". In this photo I'm indicating the shift fork.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eERXHC8GSlBN1PcdTZbmeX2sbUKU8-cQ8Gz3FlNs6-Y9yKqtIsSqqO0VrQgokApmypXPbMFyJb2n-FjPgS0k6Ti7YgVgS2efjGn80s7WaT15WHDhkAwGnPj6dsvi7og eeEkV-DXsbOpOG_fQqFUINF6w=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
Simply slide it back, and it does two things. 1) it creates clearance to fit a wrench onto the nut (since I don't have a 41mm socket), and 2) it locks all the gears together for the next step.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3f2HDSZkUtfSuMbEZXRndW_4NG9h6LJ7BRe4oMKmU4-HRhmqiuxnwwk_FZUGoRrBsw_FL0ijd-onKOF15rvA2t8OnQ9GCbLKki0JeFI4Ar9y9Az4Pg3RJZ1DLgce 18Fvb-061UvjJLUfBVKSUGNisUnhA=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
Next I chalked the case up in my vise and clamped down on the front drive shaft flange.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cpqQbkU6h7NobX79QxXwQhGO64Yz7_yAy9bwkMmfuOf0Ez5v1 t6kBeaEzr3XbXMIxfJ3QI-K-gBhzMyyaKzX2RsK-GM_vZ1HVt15KGwCHv22aZdXD6oZh9Gd4J1oEEcNI748auHFgYI fv0UyCLJIBUqA=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
It turns out that 2:1 gearing is still enough to turn the driveshaft flange in the vise when you put the wrench on the nut, so I slid a rod through a flange hole and up against a cooling fin. Try to get that shaft up into the base of the fin so you don't break it off.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3caJXxMt1LrdoWGytZ4hjYkpqlLRAQIlpTXPlYbBpP6jKSl5f5 42Hx-A3BMsSlL2xYwWJKYX0JwK65vrgJmrUTT_uDNOcCjUUDsBLfEkj mOsyn9UoCTlhDdj74Togp9hLvkDu7IKLsaaf-9RYqpnGo_lQ=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
I happened to have this 1 5/8" monster wrench hanging around. If you can have a second person to stand around and support the t-case, it'll alleviate a lot of fears about busting it loose out of the vise and dropping it onto the floor. I didn't have any help, but managed to get the nut loose.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dwmw84WK1ngA3VZO58Et2Ngibm-r1p5DRfzp4TujDw_lJwXJi12wD7I_Wmy1o6rN_DIUHJbMwuoNW kabKaDo66ZEibXjkR4li0vB0h_XOVewGmK2fKjDfwg9LrDBeC0 4k1oPufrwxS3IEE0kUSAiXM2w=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
I had a heck of a time focusing properly here, but you can make out that when I hammered that screw driver into the nut peen, it laid the threads over and broke some of them off. This also made it less than smooth when the nut came off, but fortunately the rest of the intact threads kept everything clean.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cX94txnA6lRha7d94YPjFaGS95saG187DodO4Sq3OLo4-mtMpJCGlUqFM7w6J2GB_PmugU5P6qdvvByvdG7pmZ7YgHLy-LyuheNqhlZ-0GHo_-RXVTRyMJ4C8dHSuDW6zGuFc9ihtCzJnGtvlbQJwRdQ=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
All the remnants of those damaged threads.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fzdkUx9mk6XSyLdQKHRJnRwr2kSMkvCOua8bXFb19Ix9BUvyN jl0d9RuwpBTWMm7pHNYHEgMv1QrVSbeR3m7LXnTmdxoF4a_3El ukAbkYL7LAZftJTQ6yxlR6q0dVP0gQCEi3MU0LC6wlK1bnE4BM 1Pw=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
Now I'm stuck again. The next instruction from Indy4x is Release the snap ring that is under the gear on the idler shaft. This is the snap ring that holds the idler shaft to the housing. (This snap ring will remain loose around the idler shaft but will allow the idler shaft to move outward).
I've done that here. I first removed the outer snap ring (not sure if I needed to or not).
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3duDxuoX8M22aKvyubHug6Njlu1jrxrE_T1HgrBr4b3EGB2nnT wAtOPtoCFNXgy7xyeRyJZ5W3Xel7M7lR7yZ3ftlvucuTAiGuZN B68YCK71iIKnmeGVNLeP5lTf3WD1iyzf7nS17CjGArb_9_gYox OJg=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
The snap ring under the gear they are talking about is this one in the photo. Ignore the gear puller in the upper part of the photo, as the way it is installed is just pulling on itself.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fQn9bbnzks9lCsKZE7HbaMYVDoB-iPJCYsxXaDeoe9YlvLw8a9HcBO2JSysS5DosIdtXoJIF50mkZh ZGEYGMMkmvsigux1RUe2nC9Q5wTyUcvNzFE3iK8zRJ3lSWsG4j B_HpmmUooqEYo6w9XMxnXbGQ=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
I used the Jerry method of running a wire through the holes of the snap ring to hold it open. The solid wire pictured broke twice, so I switch to a braided wire with a sheath, which also broke. However, in trying to get the snap ring to stay closed, I somehow got it out of position like I was supposed to.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3erq_MSqH-mWk9Vrl0W-l5LtnFwh5fehd_FVFIVOwKplxUuufR-XoLI5Ft5jTz6mC546mS1MqoZoZ1qZio_qSQYF2I0rP6qR3Kewp DJwSh8wHlfTxV-vURVId5XDQYjGmeOAbOk_L5Aifzd8HldGjFrPQ=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
Now I'm to the point where the idler gear has enough play that I was able to maneuver one of the shift rails out of place, but everything is interfering with each other and I can't figure out what piece needs to be removed first, nor how to remove anything.
Here you can see the shift rail out of place.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cR3gUolMRb-zCDDSJzQ8t24TZD8KgfUjynPHRcZcqZaoPjLBOPaW6yHcWb9Hz bxja0OZG9E2B-hr5IhyUoTyhUlyvDeOfQk7x2fmCQ2azbre4myh8F11IAXVdjsk CDg6C_31Dv1JF79-EhlrpgLl3v3Q=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
The flat, round piece fits in the slot immediately to the right, and the shaft fits into the hole toward the top of the photo. After you remove (partially) the interior snap ring, it allows the idler gear to move forward enough for this piece to come out.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eme76e76LXSNeXaJYx6_ScYP36zj7UwWyZ22EH8O2QNdqmRl1 l8HvZJFXDrll-8zT9e-gTHSNIIZbtD7zSvthxUO8VvOYya_o8RunzDuUFNw0SqfywlRrc fYT-KkmGEkPPKEqpwKIJj2XaSCd0elQoKQ=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
This shows the new idler gear, and shows that it's a large gear toward the bottom, and a smaller gear at the top, all one piece. That larger gear is prevented from being removed by each of the two gears on either side, and each of the shift forks attached to the rails.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d5h0sisGDiCBJjT2kInTPkGjKKJ2bk9Pxlts_IWOEvxbVXdK4 HC44xg5wapBXKl6hiMfAjipyNvvZ-JkMFPJ3W1K6jYdMMwuSNLed26JOD1sh3YB5idL2bAZC_b2fode S1sRWncesJAoaV1hATc8iOBw=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
I'm indicating what I'm calling a shift fork, and you can see one on either side of the idler gear, preventing the idler from coming out.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dIk9YmgZIMJm1KZCviugSG8GOB4kvKKg232M9fg8CHOuMjmyd Ey4OgCI2146bX2ZK47gdcq09ttCSZw62lK1HmN4n85nzcYIA13 iIqZYxqK6Nt0MmooYVeH5pjxZD2b29u020xVkfuYVPy1d5lV9G TaQ=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
Here is everything again just as an overview. You can see that the large gears on either side of the idler gear hold the idler in place. It's clear that I need to remove the shift forks and rails, but it's not clear how to go about this. There are several pins in the wrist of the shift rails, but I tried moving a few of them with a drift punch and they didn't seem to want to move, so I'm not sure if they are directional or not. I hope not, because I don't know how I'm going to access them from the other side with any amount of force.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cOMrAufgxMcCk-tUlnE5W9sAX-m5X_g6R4syrsfR2SBI057eO4NyiNJTH2C1jOe3eqWGi7iWDzwU p03cnAhYF5lueJOWB_2n1pxd4fdkg8N93z8zxwSLonft3pQZzX 8HVX88NqwRf252xpFtd4J69tJQ=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
Finally, here are the rest of the Indy4x directions, which I'm sure will make perfect sense once I'm done, but at this stage, they aren't that helpful. There is a diagram included with the Indy4x instructions, but none of the parts they mention are labeled in the diagram.
Using a long eared pulley puller, pull off the low speed clutch drive assembly. (The drive assembly includes the low speed gear, shift ring, spined shaft drive part, shift yoke and shift rail). NOTE! The idler shaft may have to be pulled up slightly to clear the yoke's removal. If the roller bearing and the inner assembly, make sure that you do not lose the inner bearing sleeve's drive ball that is located in the input shaft. Remove the idler shaft. Pull up by hand. Remove the snap ring on the idler shaft.
Here's what happens when you flat tow your Jeep behind a RV, but accidentally leave it in 1st gear.
And 4x4 Low
https://www.tiktok.com/foryou?is_from_webapp=v2&is_copy_url=1&item_id=6938090790384143622#/@sbcsdime210/video/6938090790384143622
That gear ratio works out to 73.14:1
Wonder what RPM it was doing when it grenaded
Edit: Theoretical RPM at 55mph is just under 41k rpm
That gear ratio works out to 73.14:1
Wonder what RPM it was doing when it grenaded
Edit: Theoretical RPM at 55mph is just under 41k rpm
The Rubicons have a factory 4:1 low range right?
**I'm just copy/pasting my build thread from the Isuzu board, but if this boring, let me know. I don't have to post every project I undertake on here as well.
All three shafts and gear sets need to come out together. In order for that to happen, you need to remove the front driveshaft flange. This is a 36mm socket and you can use the same method of sliding a rod through one of the driveshaft bolt holes, up against the case, between cooling fins, to stop everything from turning to loosen the nut. There is no snap ring here, the ones in the photo are from other areas. Once the nut is all the way off, use a soft dowel (wood, plastic, etc) to tap the shaft loose.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3doXlgjWKOvHO9lKO_3Ti-yv0FOY_ObYbWCeS6xen-gB1IQp85feZ1PsfRMp1NnKgxIKLOpmGAUfEOoz7BOgt8URbqgZ WJvkp88FkOybuCmMcYnmIirbLgrnjq_Sk6jyjGH32DWk92rL50 BI48F677qDA=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
The idler shaft needs to be tapped out as well, but there is no access from the back like the other two shafts. I threw my 3-jaw gear puller back on as pictured, held a steel rod between two of the pullers (with my thumb off to the side) and tapped the whole assembly out with a hammer. Of course make sure you've loosened the internal snap ring under the large gear first.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3f9qRNt2a1dbU0_588oJ-dTAZQLD0riLNPrQBj-QIcP4dCKHRgJ5Aiu6L2k2QAC9pQYMKsN6UovhKvASoe0k0IyGG xmd1GN5PJbvaa7znheLtymd00HkDaFmnDKamw04dMBygbAc4FJ ZcIRj40b5mDb4g=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
Here is everything out of the case.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dWJBVl_32FH9xobfRJ6WumYRyArlKjx3okF4Pd6DueRWmk3yy Zs596Jo5E5Y64__CBcULqpTN1fe7VfSJq5NgPng4A1t0keU6z-DkF81XNKbwQLe5mYkn_WOs632UgzmY4sfjBNKuzDcPkuNfH25F w_w=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
I had already partially pried the small bearing off of the idler gear, but the best way is to use a bearing puller and chalk it up into your press as pictured.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3elMl-uRW0AdoUNr3bY7Zzp45yXXUjYZ9G3nkzSKc9_xRzHC9Z0zULw1 u1IK6kR4qHy2C8klmkXxWXdV_MktOmC1L9YeFARmOPNY7CoyWN qw9Jic8ef3mhlCECLCLUbpYhhxpEDD91mkr9ewhFTzsfOag=w8 34-h625-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cdP6iABSgVZrrWR_slkZGMd09xIG43U08i_C7AUxmHMazvErH rA_k29ISGq2Mj4XObKGlvrfN6stIHiOQtHYkQcSVMepw9b6fly qPeU8H1IipgxohWe7dWVoTp-7-oacEZ7XMPAT6seg0FB73e--T5EQ=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
Press each bearing off the same way. Make sure you have a helper catch the idler gear as it drops. Or if you like excitement like I do, squat down to catch the idler with your off hand as you pump the press with your dominant hand, all while placing your face right where all the action is taking place. Wear safety glasses.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fnS6YXzAQuUHtiq3pM5KnB7WhYfhprNCRCnbtQ3oxwVgHoz5Q NSY0gQE0PqlbtSrPIdBJkh_iSEExHFzQEZcYxuitIR3cRYR1nl jYXr0h2y61SU1fclBj6TLNTdsTlA5NqvobcWv7NXqXgPuZvSXC SlQ=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
Now I have some questions. Here is how the factory idler gear is set-up.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d9MYgBOMX_O644OAmOe_GjjO2HIs28kqL1mkYYcUXnfrxqD7--xvTi-Hc2TAE8Hpa8gXW-KTxfu4ZLWXlpWDNvE3JvMqV7tOzrQ_6_Qqx_bt5yNm9wzR5Koq tDO5NaZ-l9pUsOVJeQq2YnsJP_YADJpw=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
There is a thin gear, a shim, and a collar on the bottom/back of the idler, as well as the internal snap ring. Do all of these components transfer over to the new idler gear?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3flOiLK1GHBttFlzv2XUXr2Jyy5yNM58ya9Gc-TTqQXC4hQs2MMKdQ_wUtnBs5eC2RqSc_xg2cgADWsiN8w5om-NAFm0XSJo2eDgx_WDY7-RB6t5HVkMctpSSXENVn6Cc124TmGQbEd6I7VIWjglOlctg=w83 4-h625-no?authuser=0
Obviously the thin gear will do nothing with the new, larger idler gear, but it seems like it acts as another shim and with everything in place, it is the correct height to support the bearing. The Indy4x instructions only say to put the bearings onto the new idler gear, but don't mention any of the shims or the collar. What's the consensus?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cv-lfC4qfAKUnt2mPwJrPHjWhxBnKfw1Wc6ienYtzFNP70vu_sD-jGjIyMxldXNsoiwwIno-hcdzEuWOvvuWZns4p9OO_WWilKG5wHjRvTq10uyYduhjcoFkqQ BnsTClSbBuujrDFGPGsrRgFjDw3CYQ=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
The Rubicons have a factory 4:1 low range right?
Correct
Irv
Based on the original setup my guess is that thin gear was some sort of synchro. Clearly it won?t do that anymore, but if it provides the right spacing throw it back on.
That plate gear has one less tooth and is used to make the engagement more quiet. The Isuzu board says not to bother with it. I have to wonder if that is part of the reason that trucks with low gears (my neighbor) sound like an R/C car when in low. I'm getting pretty close, excited to wrap it up. My new flywheel shows up Saturday, so hopefully it'll all be down hill by then.
Next pull the remaining rail out. Like Lorenzo said, the new rail has a relief cut to accommodate the larger idler gear.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3e7SmJRz9L1Vy6xzeTi1uG2JB1B0qTpxSsx2ATwsqt79-hE8x1qZOxlKR0TbwlBxacuIlORVxRB6ezD7QIKjraoHdV51hLL bQ1EJgHwhcaAFZABLKl0E7HBGe-Dsqsz96D-vf7UpbGhBN7g4U2ttbqpYg=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
You can see that even with the relief, the clearance is close.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3djDOfBpJny0jZ-0mTyDTzEpI-3g7I3J9ndCHJHhzSGYed3xA_XHavVefY1xQFTvaLFgi3qN5uuo pJe7dtdQaPcNt9WAsJ9YT06PiIuvp-EmyobUPRKtek8awH-Mvjz8Cfkuwmf2DGydr4HRXy6bkTRYA=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
Next you have to pull the gears from the input shaft. This has been on the left in all of my pictures so far, and looks like this.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cbDmH5sosC5ogTxbdfIBWXLEAUMrQlnThtwzryfgn88wLUtoO 9YzOEeHqWc4hWp3-_KEVqRz5-EimtLnBN5u9NPXVOOOif6Kbg0OMTtY9_Wbvryf1KPMfckQKM2y k1h2bMPuKXtzmf8frL5yv992VABw=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
Don't do this!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dNYoR6MPY9sZL8DLjypgrdC6hjTiEq0oJaBSnWeYiN2F27tDt ZP3QwRBUVpxk7BPl_4V75P1iCXXgza8r4C9VUknFkzEarRhhFa 7kGkRhagU9wy0H4A62h4tDP6GiuWmK8x4bN3hXgmZhEA2C7QXk Asw=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
Because this will happen, if you're lucky it will only be this bad.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c523Tlwr5d2oJrhrq2PN4MwBe9-kVimZhzGu-EbdExw98e1ml_hjYq5ozjFa6lv1OJ0HRE76vu721mIowdjdeL0 do12bDjwea9-24hFmiEBeqsWsKC-DhabMu60jtZIOADmlvWDWIspEwhrwFJUxjn2w=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
Instead, put your clam shell puller under both gears, and make sure not to smash the snap ring hanging loose down there as well. This picture was taken after I pressed the gears off in the with the hydraulic press. The gear in my hand is the grey gear that Lorenzo was talking about being brittle.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eL3PlrOmc_x2eLIagePLyit0x_20Doea3NqmGISU2up-9XxvXGzM3Gi4H3LlhV4FmKHhbZtEhoc60ii4eBK0K14aHPRtd7 gjX9EXHhWk6q_ZXfgcxlAak5ot0nOnkB8VTH8siY8OorsDOcYc YWIV_Yuw=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3f-PA4oH83NGrJJ4uMJkHX-52OmjVMqXfCX2PjhUj6S9tMLsj3NoKhc5C6IteYtol0VHIiXdK 4-vOHlbzDhYjzBSOR6Zk2lz_GumWJW1ACEVsuG_3SMuy0Bz8-6J6bxXp_MrysIMgRxZo_WFITK5_NSSw=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
The gear I'm holding is the other gear you are replacing. It lifts right off that bearing, and the new one slips right on. Be careful of those needle bearings.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dekefig0sYLtHNr1Oizs9W8mSy5cLiVBni0HNOQCpoJB7Oo6Z GvasDaIsPmTuqCRPOXRxtghXZTTEHUQakzvwwhyYM9UALR0bSL LySaorsM5lsasiN9ejTXUp8b-BweB1oFMnakxz5k5hDRmFf6D7VlA=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
Use the press to fit everything back on, but watch as it seats and don't use too much press, or you shatter that grey gear like this, and swear so loud that your neighbors ask if you are okay (but didn't actually check to make sure that you were).
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3exqKmnzEkrVvNMxvF8_vSRPdnGR1ilGtxZ27NL8b8_buDJF-1LQdDw9MS74jmfK3t51Fv9w8_mU2aJm5RcX3RhXsUlxSUUNXKL aAJNhwpm0QuztLcadBuMr7mccYikjqfKCY4649ZpYBFe7XKWPc vrQw=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
Now I have to go pull another T-case for sure and join the club of others that have messed this up. To be continued...
The casting on this flywheel looks pretty bad. It's for sure not centered. Does this matter? It seems like it should matter for a spinning part, but I just don't know.
Look where I'm pointing on the right. The grooves are hardly even there.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3ccw-DXBTrbIvL-Z6DBvusf421F3xmMI7rXM1YgJda-Q0r-Lo843JV85by02dG1w0_dWvjRmO0BTdkXgi27AsjhrYUqQ2mG5F GgwYwVrF08yfIGZvRtBUyUbX4EVLSRCZur2TI7iiQJGXl3hJNe jyLjag=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
This center ring is not concentric at all. Way more space on the right side than the left.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3f3O9CpQG8yGXm7qZ-9c7gimWfCepkBqCnWAkEmHwOhj75AE2OlFp4Rl2ckYS-hMJQDvL8nw2S5IOR69muI1CbdRewVfZXTw16dhVkZ192rc_FmR fMArLoT6bJ5VbJk-oTt2fug1JWHSAJuyIdgiI1LjA=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
Are these acceptable tolerances? This is a LUK flywheel off Amazon. I was going to install the clutch until I can get back to doing the low gears in the T-case, but this has me questioning if I should even install this or not.
I wish we had an experience mechanic around here to answer questions like this.
That looks way off. Technically as long as it balances Sb ok. But it looks like they machined it way off. It might not be a real LUK, but a reject from LUK
Fentonite
03-19-2021, 07:55
LUK has a webpage where you check authenticity:
https://www.luk-us.com/content.schaeffler.us/us/products-and-solutions/automotive-aftermarket/services/authenticity-check/index.jsp
Thanks, there is a scanner code thing on the box that takes me to that website, but otherwise there is nothing on the box or flywheel that has a code in that style. Concerning.
Fentonite
03-19-2021, 09:14
Sounds like a fake, since the website says the flywheel should have those identifying features. Since it’s from Amazon, I’d just return it and get one from a different vendor. Not worth the risk of using it, IMO.
I think I'm about there as well. I sent the pictures to my mechanic buddy and he said that level of quality is about the norm and it should be balanced after casting so it shouldn't matter. That doesn't change the fact that the Amazon vendor shouldn't be selling fakes though.
Based on a few forum discussions there are a lot of fakes on Amazon now. Most will come in genuine looking boxes.
Got transfer case? Ugh.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3efowVPhmd8gbXNuq4mVDKLeUkuZbO-jHBiirGy4T8IAg5vPb7W7B_tuxVT8JwfIGkKxYKPBqMG8C1J-ZivNGy3S4-ZWEyqh4LvCNC1fAMc18neU9Ky0JH_5iZ7RZGaedapeD7zxeH1K QcQy_q9z83Uwg=w834-h625-no?authuser=0
HunterCO
03-19-2021, 23:10
The first step is to understand what a casting is and how they are machined.
Very helpful, did you forget a link?
I will be doing 722.9 transmission service and 725.0 transmission service within next quarter.
Not looking forward to doing it.
What do those numbers mean?
HunterCO
03-20-2021, 11:39
Very helpful, did you forget a link?
Sorry you cant google a link to my brain and knowledge google and the internet is not always the answer.
What do those numbers mean?
I talked huge about difficult diy on euro performance car forum, and I now own up to my big mouth. Help or at least coach forum members.
Some vehicles in this brand has to do transmission service every 30k. :(
It will be my 4th time doing 722.9 transmission service (minus torque converter drain), and twice on 725.0.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_7G-Tronic_transmission
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_9G-Tronic_transmission
There is no way in hell I am letting forum member in pay $700 for transmission service to a dealership. :)
(maintenance cost and schedule example:
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-c63s-amg/796031-tranny-rear-diff-oil-change-question.html
cableguy11
03-20-2021, 13:59
I have been fighting my 2007 Audi B7 2.0..Burnt exhaust valves..pulled head and sent to shop. Got it back...and running today. Now just got to put it all back together. New injectors, valves, timing chain, timing belt, water pump and a new battery! What a PITA...
https://i.imgur.com/tmMmB4m.jpg
I have been fighting my 2007 Audi B7 2.0..Burnt exhaust valves..pulled head and sent to shop. Got it back...and running today. Now just got to put it all back together. New injectors, valves, timing chain, timing belt, water pump and a new battery! What a PITA...
https://i.imgur.com/tmMmB4m.jpg
I have that exact same 12pt bit set.
Sorry, not really jealous of you. VWs and I dont really get along.
HunterCO
03-20-2021, 14:25
I have been fighting my 2007 Audi B7 2.0..Burnt exhaust valves..pulled head and sent to shop. Got it back...and running today. Now just got to put it all back together. New injectors, valves, timing chain, timing belt, water pump and a new battery! What a PITA...
https://i.imgur.com/tmMmB4m.jpg
it has a timing belt and a chain you sir have one in a million vehicle. [ROFL2]
Wow, good luck with that too. I envy some who are doing vehicle project.
I wanna do some vehicle projects, but I just don't have enough patience past few years.
Currently, I am regripping 25+ irons, 3 racquetball racquets, and re-shafting 6 irons. (i go through ~1qt of golf grip solvents per quarter)
After that, I am some restoration on 1 vintage golf bag. If that is over, I need to organize/sort some books and encyclopedias I won from local library purchase. (taking library tabs out, clean/erase/delete logos that is worth doing, etc)
If all that is done, I am planning to list all those online after my kid's activities are done.
My house stinks like golf grip solvent right now, but it is not as bad as Hopps solvent. :D
HunterCO
03-20-2021, 18:53
I am gm master certified ford master cetified and ASE master certified for over 30 years and the internet has taught me I don't know shit. Back yard mechanics with google are the shit im just a dipshit. So today I decided to change oil on my super duty being the dumbass I am figured I should ask the experts if I did it ok. I did it in my shop at home sure hope I didnt mess it up.
85554\
85555
I am gm master certified ford master cetified and ASE master certified for over 30 years and the internet has taught me I don't know shit. Back yard mechanics with google are the shit im just a dipshit. So today I decided to change oil on my super duty being the dumbass I am figured I should ask the experts if I did it ok. I did it in my shop at home sure hope I didnt mess it up.
85554\
85555
We get it. You know everything.
ChickNorris
03-20-2021, 19:15
I have that exact same 12pt bit set.
Sorry, not really jealous of you. VWs and I dont really get along.
New meaning for service position. I dislike vws even more than dodge.
HunterCO
03-20-2021, 19:22
We get it. You know everything.
NO hoping you could enlighten me about all the things I don't know.
I have been fighting my 2007 Audi B7 2.0..Burnt exhaust valves..pulled head and sent to shop. Got it back...and running today. Now just got to put it all back together. New injectors, valves, timing chain, timing belt, water pump and a new battery! What a PITA...
https://i.imgur.com/tmMmB4m.jpg
Respect for your plight. My kids B8 has been a pita.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
NO hoping you could enlighten me about all the things I don't know.
Sorry you cant google a link to my brain and knowledge google and the internet is not always the answer.
HunterCO
03-20-2021, 19:54
Sorry you cant google a link to my brain and knowledge google and the internet is not always the answer.
bingo is it sinking in yet?
I'm a working mechanic for about 35 years now, and I use google/youtube all the time,because I'm constantly reminding myself how little I actually know . The trick is in figuring out what's useful, and what's blatant bullshit. The signal to noise ratio on most forums is pretty low.
HunterCO
03-20-2021, 20:26
I'm a working mechanic for about 35 years now, and I use google/youtube all the time,because I'm constantly reminding myself how little I actually know . The trick is in figuring out what's useful, and what's blatant bullshit. The signal to noise ratio on most forums is pretty low.
Very well said however I am not a mechanic im a technician kinda like the difference between a nurse and a doctor im a doctor. we all have are place nurses are awesome but they are not doctors. Mechanics are not technicians my expertise far exceeds that level just like a doctors expertise far exceeds that of a nurse.
cableguy11
03-20-2021, 21:17
it has a timing belt and a chain you sir have one in a million vehicle. [ROFL2]
I guess technically it is a cam chain...and timing belt. However when I ordered the parts they are listed under timing chain and timing belt...
I am gm master certified ford master cetified and ASE master certified for over 30 years and the internet has taught me I don't know shit. Back yard mechanics with google are the shit im just a dipshit. So today I decided to change oil on my super duty being the dumbass I am figured I should ask the experts if I did it ok. I did it in my shop at home sure hope I didnt mess it up.
85554\
85555
As long as you drained all the oil, not just a quart or two, and hand threaded the oil plug back in before you blasted it on with the 1/2" drive air gun, you probably did okay. Don't over tighten the oil filter.
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